ccoyle

Running Rigging Main Sail…


 
Main Throat Halyard…
 

 
Belaying the Main Throat Halyard to the wrong side.  😑 Fixed it later… 😆
 

 
Main Throat Halyard Whip…
 

 
Belaying the Whip…
 

 
These tools were well worth the 10.00
I paid on eBay. 
 

 
Main Peak Halyard
 

 
Tip: Stage white card in the back ground, gives better visibility. Less squinting. 😆
 

 
Lazyjacks going in with the boom tied down. 
 

 
Tied off the LazyJack pendant, behind the Throat Halyard Blocks. That was fun. NOT! 🧐
 

 
Termination of the LazyJack ropes on the Main Boom. 
 
 

 
Main Sheet Tackle…
 

 
Topping Lift tackle…
 

 
Time to put some wind in the Main Sail. 
 

 
 
 
Wow! That actually worked…. I glued the Mast, Boom and Gaff in to position. Then laid her on her side and soaked the Main Sail down with Fabric Stiffener. Let her dry overnight. 😎
 

 
Peak Halyard Whip installed. 
 

 
View from the stern down the Main Boom. 
 
Main Sail Running Rigging completed. 
 
Cheers 🍻 
 

Standing Rigging completed…
 

 

 
Those battens were painful 😖 Just as they were on my Charles W Morgan
 
Let the Running Rigging begin. 🍻

Pillars under the upper deck beams.
 
The next step are the lower deck cabin bulkheads; but to make them more accurately and positioned correctly( without the later alterations that I was required to make for the platform structures) better reference to later structures will be used.Thus the pillars- which also require the temp. fitting of the upper deck beams.Positions located on plans. Some coincide with structures such as coamings and there seems a difference on how to treat these- notch the structure or have the pillar sit on it.
 
Eleven are shaped- for beams #2,3,4,6,10,13,14,15,16,17,18
4 are plain-squared- #7,9,11,12
Previously made (at time of pillars beneath lower deck)- #19,20
Instead of tenons, copper pin into foot and underlying structure.
Options for shape in TFFM and plans.
Dimensions given-the head-2.9x2.9mm and heal 3.45x3.45mm
The centre ⅔, rounded- narrowing upwards to match the thinner head.
The height to be set individually beneath each beam - therefore made heal overlong for later shortening.
(Little experience with turning small structures and my Unimat has a 3jaw chuck- not good for square pieces. Bought the contraption shown in the picture for such work. Overpriced, poor quality and very inaccurate- but having bought it, used it)
Beams and Pillars dry-fitted.

I have started the rigging and will be doing the shrouds soon.

Before anyone says my anchor ropes are incorrect and only 1 should be around the windlass.  I know.  I had this conversation before and I finally said the hell with it.  I am doing what the instructions for the ship show.  (see earlier photos)

Can't believe just how quickly this is coming together and such a solid build too.
 
I've decided to take the plunge and follow BE in the steering department.

Due to some foul ups early in the planking, I figured out what I did wrong compared to my other models which involved miss sanding the taper of the planks.  About 50% would have been a better choice and bit better quality control on the taper to get it more uniform.  Too late to fix the starboard side so I did the best I could and it's now planked.  Live and re-learn.
 
I plan on painting per my previous post but still deciding on "artistic" changes like not painting over the keel but... still thinking about it.
 
I took the easy way out on the remaining planks and just cut each one in half and planked a way.  Now comes the sand-fill-sand-rinse-repeat until everything is nice and smooth.
 
After spending several hours cleaning up the shop, here's the progress photo of the starboard side.  

Keel V1 is complete (and I apologize in advance for all these photos, my flash is fighting the overhead florescent tubes and it is very difficult to balance). I decided to cut out the optional rising wood - mainly because I thought it looked cool and I wanted to play with my saw more. I think I'm most proud of this piece.




The few things that could be improved upon are
The Harris cut joint is entirely the wrong place according to the plans. I'm not entirely certain how I moved it too far back, but I did. I'm also not certain that the location of this joint is really a critical detail (for me at the moment). The bolts aren't exactly aligned. I don't have a drill press and did the best I could with a small 3D printed station that I had tinkered with awhile ago. Sadly the drill for that is not really aligned and it shows. I think to improve upon this I need to buy a drill press and I'm simply not certain that is in the cards right now. The tarred flannel - I used black tissue paper and in one area, by the Harris cut joint it is rough (maybe I can sand a little bit there to clean it up). All in all I'm happy with what I've accomplished, but I'm not certain if I should try to salvage the rising wood and try again. Any thoughts?
 

So, quick update with no photos, i have been doing my research about Jolie Brise's rigging and rope layout and i found out theres a lot of rope missing on the plans for this kit. I have been looking at photos and i have added a lot of extra ropes, mainly for the support of the mast. If youre curious, i found my references here: 
https://www.marinetraffic.com/en/photos/of/ships/shipid:183542
 
Also i have been learning how to sew and how to make my own sails. I tried to dye some cotton fabric for the sails, but it did not end well. I opted for the easy way out and went out and bought it.
 
Also i found some very high quality videos on how to make high quality sails for any kit. I will be using these as a guide when i make my sails. I will link them below:
 
 
 
 
Hopefully some of you may find this a good watch and learn something, as i have.
 
Kind regards
 

Hello, gang!
 
Well, it didn't take me very long to decide on my next project. No, it's not a ship, though I feel a ship will be in the queue in the near future. I still feel some plane-liness left in my bones, and I'm a firm believer in building whatever strikes your fancy the most at the moment. I've always had a soft spot for biplanes and interwar types, so this plane ticks both of those boxes, and -- bonus! -- it doesn't have a radial engine.
 
The project is a De Havilland DH.82A Tiger Moth, a British two-seat trainer that first flew in 1931. From 1931-44, De Havilland built 8,868 examples, of which an estimated 250 are still flying today. Although fully aerobatic, the Tiger Moth had a whopping top speed of 109 mph -- roughly 200 mph slower than my last project, the Ki-43. The kit is a 2013 offering from Kartonowa Kolekcja (which translates as Cardboard Collection), designed by Pawel Mistewicz, and includes KK's usual level of crisp artwork and detailed construction drawings. This will be my third KK project, and so far I've never had to abandon a KK build.
 
As usual, the KK kit has a beautiful glossy cover with some nice artwork; the back cover features photos of the prototype model.

 
I absolutely love the striking coloring on this particular aircraft. Several surviving examples can be found online wearing similar livery. The kit has many optional parts, allowing the builder to choose the level of detailing.

 
Lots of nice diagrams.

 
Also a great three-view included.

 
As I like to do whenever possible, I purchased the laser-cut frames set for the kit, which in this case consists of a single sheet. No molded canopy, though, because most Tiger Moths, like this one, had only wind screens.

 
Construction will commence with the necessary prep work: stiffening the laser-cut frames and mixing up the proper edge colors. Look for construction photos soon!

If you have any hobby shops near you (rare these days, I know), you can check to see if they carry milled lumber. Look for shops that cater to model railroaders and the RC plane crowd.

Frames are built and sanded.  I’m finding the build logs on this site are invaluable as the kit instructions are often ambiguous and leave a lot open to interpretation.  (I know, welcome to model ship building….). As others have noted, the frame templates on the printed plans are slightly off.  I matched them all up as closely as possible, but we’ll see what happens when I get to planking.  Minor point, but I sanded the bottom braces so that their tops follow the interior curve of the frame. I think it gives a more finished look.
 
I’ve also been testing acrylic primer and paints on scrap wood.  Will begin doing it on the real thing next.
 
 

And so it begins - my first build.  The Swampscott Dory kit arrived last Thursday and since then I've been gathering needed tools and supplies, setting up my workstation in the basement, reading the instructions and the build logs of others who have already tackled this kit.  I inventoried all the parts, and everything is present and accounted for.  I've also researched real-life versions of this Dory and found one that I like here, and will try to build a model that replicates this as closely as possible.  I found suitable acrylic paints in Michael's; still not sure about the stains/varnish - will likely be a trial and error process making use of the scrap wood. I'll begin assembling the frames this week, though I plan to build this kit slowly, deliberately and even contemplatively.  As I wrote in my new member intro last week, I'm more interested in the learning process than the finished product.  I think it will be fun, and I'm looking forward to it!

Ah, the infamous Last Crusade tank -- the one that goes over a cliff and the turret falls off, revealing quite clearly that the tank is a plastic model. 😂  Fun movie, but a certain amount of suspension of belief was required.

Hello, gang!
 
Well, it didn't take me very long to decide on my next project. No, it's not a ship, though I feel a ship will be in the queue in the near future. I still feel some plane-liness left in my bones, and I'm a firm believer in building whatever strikes your fancy the most at the moment. I've always had a soft spot for biplanes and interwar types, so this plane ticks both of those boxes, and -- bonus! -- it doesn't have a radial engine.
 
The project is a De Havilland DH.82A Tiger Moth, a British two-seat trainer that first flew in 1931. From 1931-44, De Havilland built 8,868 examples, of which an estimated 250 are still flying today. Although fully aerobatic, the Tiger Moth had a whopping top speed of 109 mph -- roughly 200 mph slower than my last project, the Ki-43. The kit is a 2013 offering from Kartonowa Kolekcja (which translates as Cardboard Collection), designed by Pawel Mistewicz, and includes KK's usual level of crisp artwork and detailed construction drawings. This will be my third KK project, and so far I've never had to abandon a KK build.
 
As usual, the KK kit has a beautiful glossy cover with some nice artwork; the back cover features photos of the prototype model.

 
I absolutely love the striking coloring on this particular aircraft. Several surviving examples can be found online wearing similar livery. The kit has many optional parts, allowing the builder to choose the level of detailing.

 
Lots of nice diagrams.

 
Also a great three-view included.

 
As I like to do whenever possible, I purchased the laser-cut frames set for the kit, which in this case consists of a single sheet. No molded canopy, though, because most Tiger Moths, like this one, had only wind screens.

 
Construction will commence with the necessary prep work: stiffening the laser-cut frames and mixing up the proper edge colors. Look for construction photos soon!

I have found that Aleen's Clear Gel Tacky Glue has a longer set time than regular white Tacky Glue. This comes in handy when you need to glue surfaces that need to be adjusted as you work. I used it on the cowling and spinner on my recent Ki-43 build; each is made up of concentric rings that need to be nudged around a bit as the glue sets. White glue sets too fast for this, and CA is too messy for the job. With the Gel Clear, I achieved some of the nicest ring structures I have yet done.
 

I have found that Aleen's Clear Gel Tacky Glue has a longer set time than regular white Tacky Glue. This comes in handy when you need to glue surfaces that need to be adjusted as you work. I used it on the cowling and spinner on my recent Ki-43 build; each is made up of concentric rings that need to be nudged around a bit as the glue sets. White glue sets too fast for this, and CA is too messy for the job. With the Gel Clear, I achieved some of the nicest ring structures I have yet done.
 

Ah, the infamous Last Crusade tank -- the one that goes over a cliff and the turret falls off, revealing quite clearly that the tank is a plastic model. 😂  Fun movie, but a certain amount of suspension of belief was required.

The MK VII tank, there were only three of them built, none of them survive... essentially a MK V with a new drive system....

They were cancelled in 1918 with the end of the war and the choice to go with the International MK VIII....

The Last Crusade Tank was actually a production prop... Built on an old excavator chassis, namely a HYMAC 590 and was powered by two rover V8 engines, drive gear installed and modified by a specialist engineer from Chertsey in Surrey, Diablo (Victor) Donnelly It was based on the real-world Tank Mark VIII which possessed no main top turret. The replica measured 36 feet (11 m) long and weighed 28 short tons. (25 t)
On the MGM lot...


It has since been repainted.....
 

John, I recommend The Bug  Hold and Fold by The Small Shop, inexpensive,, easy to use,, works well with PE brass.  I have one and used it a lot.

Not sure how many Pocher fans are out there, but I ordered this 1/4 scale Ducati abut a year ago. I put it together a month or so ago.  First production run so a few errors on the instructions, etc - but all in all pretty sweet.
   The box gives you an idea of the size of the thing. 
 
 
     
 

Ah, the infamous Last Crusade tank -- the one that goes over a cliff and the turret falls off, revealing quite clearly that the tank is a plastic model. 😂  Fun movie, but a certain amount of suspension of belief was required.

Ah, the infamous Last Crusade tank -- the one that goes over a cliff and the turret falls off, revealing quite clearly that the tank is a plastic model. 😂  Fun movie, but a certain amount of suspension of belief was required.

Start up a new log, and we'll put a link to it here in the old one.

I think your planking job produced an absolutely terrific result.

Start up a new log, and we'll put a link to it here in the old one.