ccoyle

next are the Bow chaser gun openings. The kit has this silly little representation on a barrel. It took me a fair while to just figure out to put a bit of car behind the triangle at the front and create the angle into the hull with putty. That way the barrel can sit flush within the lines of he ship. Bit of tidy up to do and it will be fine, as there will also be the hatches folded down.

Just a couple more pics of the bulwark planking:

Well here goes, my first build log. The San Martin was the flagship of the King Phillip II 's commander the Duke of Medina Sidonia and is  frequently mentioned in "The Defeat of the Spanish Armada" by Garrett Mattingly. It survived the battles and voyage and finally reached Santander after sailing around the north of Scotland and Ireland.
 
An earlier incomplete build log of this model , with several photographs of the parts in box is shown in
San Martin by Volkerbo - Occre - scale 1: 90  so I won't repeat.
 
This is my first Occre kit and so far compares favourably with Corel efforts quality wise. The frames and false keel went together easily with only a little easing  and first picture shows three of the decks planked, although only the main deck is glued in place which needed clamping it was straight whilst it lies curved.  The planks were lightly sanded and given one coat of Danish oil and tree nails added in pencil. For this build I intend to sand, coat with one coat of Danish oil and rub in beeswax at the end. Noted a few oddities in the instructions already, one of which suggests bulkheads planked vertically with mahogany. Never seen this before so will plank horizontally as in many build logs. Also suggested this planking is done before the decks are added which I think would have needed trimming the planked decks. So will fit the decks and then plank the bulk heads.
 
The only bashing I intend to do is to cut out more gun ports to replace the metal stick on castings. Will try the method used in Half Moon using stub cannons glued into a block fixed to the bulkheads.  Aim is for the cannon barrels to protrude from  dark shadowy gun ports. If I can't get the planking right around the ports or the effect doesn't look good can always debash the kit.
 
Now for the fun, I have  a decent camera but struggling to get a good lighting and spot in the house.
 

 
 
 
 
All comments welcome and I hope its of interest to the members, signing off for now.
 
Steve
 
 

I just read through this entire thread again after seeing that another member was directed here.  I feel it is worth pointing out (again) that it is really very hard to make generalizations about the instructions in kits made by various manufacturers (with maybe the exception of the soon-to-be-defunct Midwest Products boat model line).  The simple reason is because manufacturers and their kit line-ups both change over time.
 
Take Caldercraft as an illustration of this point.  Their first dozen or so kit offerings really had very spartan instructions.  It's only their most recent kits that have had detailed instructions.  If you were to buy a kit of Caldercraft's Snake, for example, based solely on your positive experience with their instructions in Pickle, you'll be sorely disappointed; Snake is one of the older kits with far less detailed instructions.
 
Same goes for Model Shipways.  The instruction manuals in their older kits have a lot of pages, to be sure, but they don't really tell you how to accomplish many of the steps.  They'll tell you to 'plank the hull' for example, but won't tell you how to plank the hull.  MS instructions assume a certain amount of ability on behalf of the builder.  But, again, their newer kits (those designed by Chuck, for example) have much better instructions.
 
Another thing that can make it an absolute booger to make generalizations about this or that kit line is that some manufacturers have, over the years, acquired and sold kit designs that they didn't themselves design in-house.  Many times they didn't take the time and expense to update those kits, and that includes the instructions.
 
Many manufacturers are aware that their kits and instructions need updating, but ship model kits aren't a lucrative business, and if they already have a box of, say, 500 less-than-stellar instruction manuals for HMS Lollipop sitting in the warehouse, rest assured they're going to box up and sell those instruction manuals in 500 kits before they pay to have them redesigned and reprinted.  It's about economics.
 
If you really want only the best instructions, you can't go too far wrong (here I am making a generalization after I just warned about making generalizations) in taking the advice mentioned earlier in this thread: newer is better, and by 'newer' I mean as in newer kit design.  The last few years have seen a real uptick in the quality of instructions being included in kits, especially from MS, Caldercraft, Victory Models, and some of the newer European manufacturers.  Cruise the various catalogs and web sites and work from the latest releases backwards - the farther back you go, the more likely you are to get more terse instructions.
 
Kit instructions - it ain't as easy as saying Brand X instructions are better than Brand Y !

I just read through this entire thread again after seeing that another member was directed here.  I feel it is worth pointing out (again) that it is really very hard to make generalizations about the instructions in kits made by various manufacturers (with maybe the exception of the soon-to-be-defunct Midwest Products boat model line).  The simple reason is because manufacturers and their kit line-ups both change over time.
 
Take Caldercraft as an illustration of this point.  Their first dozen or so kit offerings really had very spartan instructions.  It's only their most recent kits that have had detailed instructions.  If you were to buy a kit of Caldercraft's Snake, for example, based solely on your positive experience with their instructions in Pickle, you'll be sorely disappointed; Snake is one of the older kits with far less detailed instructions.
 
Same goes for Model Shipways.  The instruction manuals in their older kits have a lot of pages, to be sure, but they don't really tell you how to accomplish many of the steps.  They'll tell you to 'plank the hull' for example, but won't tell you how to plank the hull.  MS instructions assume a certain amount of ability on behalf of the builder.  But, again, their newer kits (those designed by Chuck, for example) have much better instructions.
 
Another thing that can make it an absolute booger to make generalizations about this or that kit line is that some manufacturers have, over the years, acquired and sold kit designs that they didn't themselves design in-house.  Many times they didn't take the time and expense to update those kits, and that includes the instructions.
 
Many manufacturers are aware that their kits and instructions need updating, but ship model kits aren't a lucrative business, and if they already have a box of, say, 500 less-than-stellar instruction manuals for HMS Lollipop sitting in the warehouse, rest assured they're going to box up and sell those instruction manuals in 500 kits before they pay to have them redesigned and reprinted.  It's about economics.
 
If you really want only the best instructions, you can't go too far wrong (here I am making a generalization after I just warned about making generalizations) in taking the advice mentioned earlier in this thread: newer is better, and by 'newer' I mean as in newer kit design.  The last few years have seen a real uptick in the quality of instructions being included in kits, especially from MS, Caldercraft, Victory Models, and some of the newer European manufacturers.  Cruise the various catalogs and web sites and work from the latest releases backwards - the farther back you go, the more likely you are to get more terse instructions.
 
Kit instructions - it ain't as easy as saying Brand X instructions are better than Brand Y !

I just read through this entire thread again after seeing that another member was directed here.  I feel it is worth pointing out (again) that it is really very hard to make generalizations about the instructions in kits made by various manufacturers (with maybe the exception of the soon-to-be-defunct Midwest Products boat model line).  The simple reason is because manufacturers and their kit line-ups both change over time.
 
Take Caldercraft as an illustration of this point.  Their first dozen or so kit offerings really had very spartan instructions.  It's only their most recent kits that have had detailed instructions.  If you were to buy a kit of Caldercraft's Snake, for example, based solely on your positive experience with their instructions in Pickle, you'll be sorely disappointed; Snake is one of the older kits with far less detailed instructions.
 
Same goes for Model Shipways.  The instruction manuals in their older kits have a lot of pages, to be sure, but they don't really tell you how to accomplish many of the steps.  They'll tell you to 'plank the hull' for example, but won't tell you how to plank the hull.  MS instructions assume a certain amount of ability on behalf of the builder.  But, again, their newer kits (those designed by Chuck, for example) have much better instructions.
 
Another thing that can make it an absolute booger to make generalizations about this or that kit line is that some manufacturers have, over the years, acquired and sold kit designs that they didn't themselves design in-house.  Many times they didn't take the time and expense to update those kits, and that includes the instructions.
 
Many manufacturers are aware that their kits and instructions need updating, but ship model kits aren't a lucrative business, and if they already have a box of, say, 500 less-than-stellar instruction manuals for HMS Lollipop sitting in the warehouse, rest assured they're going to box up and sell those instruction manuals in 500 kits before they pay to have them redesigned and reprinted.  It's about economics.
 
If you really want only the best instructions, you can't go too far wrong (here I am making a generalization after I just warned about making generalizations) in taking the advice mentioned earlier in this thread: newer is better, and by 'newer' I mean as in newer kit design.  The last few years have seen a real uptick in the quality of instructions being included in kits, especially from MS, Caldercraft, Victory Models, and some of the newer European manufacturers.  Cruise the various catalogs and web sites and work from the latest releases backwards - the farther back you go, the more likely you are to get more terse instructions.
 
Kit instructions - it ain't as easy as saying Brand X instructions are better than Brand Y !

I just read through this entire thread again after seeing that another member was directed here.  I feel it is worth pointing out (again) that it is really very hard to make generalizations about the instructions in kits made by various manufacturers (with maybe the exception of the soon-to-be-defunct Midwest Products boat model line).  The simple reason is because manufacturers and their kit line-ups both change over time.
 
Take Caldercraft as an illustration of this point.  Their first dozen or so kit offerings really had very spartan instructions.  It's only their most recent kits that have had detailed instructions.  If you were to buy a kit of Caldercraft's Snake, for example, based solely on your positive experience with their instructions in Pickle, you'll be sorely disappointed; Snake is one of the older kits with far less detailed instructions.
 
Same goes for Model Shipways.  The instruction manuals in their older kits have a lot of pages, to be sure, but they don't really tell you how to accomplish many of the steps.  They'll tell you to 'plank the hull' for example, but won't tell you how to plank the hull.  MS instructions assume a certain amount of ability on behalf of the builder.  But, again, their newer kits (those designed by Chuck, for example) have much better instructions.
 
Another thing that can make it an absolute booger to make generalizations about this or that kit line is that some manufacturers have, over the years, acquired and sold kit designs that they didn't themselves design in-house.  Many times they didn't take the time and expense to update those kits, and that includes the instructions.
 
Many manufacturers are aware that their kits and instructions need updating, but ship model kits aren't a lucrative business, and if they already have a box of, say, 500 less-than-stellar instruction manuals for HMS Lollipop sitting in the warehouse, rest assured they're going to box up and sell those instruction manuals in 500 kits before they pay to have them redesigned and reprinted.  It's about economics.
 
If you really want only the best instructions, you can't go too far wrong (here I am making a generalization after I just warned about making generalizations) in taking the advice mentioned earlier in this thread: newer is better, and by 'newer' I mean as in newer kit design.  The last few years have seen a real uptick in the quality of instructions being included in kits, especially from MS, Caldercraft, Victory Models, and some of the newer European manufacturers.  Cruise the various catalogs and web sites and work from the latest releases backwards - the farther back you go, the more likely you are to get more terse instructions.
 
Kit instructions - it ain't as easy as saying Brand X instructions are better than Brand Y !

I just read through this entire thread again after seeing that another member was directed here.  I feel it is worth pointing out (again) that it is really very hard to make generalizations about the instructions in kits made by various manufacturers (with maybe the exception of the soon-to-be-defunct Midwest Products boat model line).  The simple reason is because manufacturers and their kit line-ups both change over time.
 
Take Caldercraft as an illustration of this point.  Their first dozen or so kit offerings really had very spartan instructions.  It's only their most recent kits that have had detailed instructions.  If you were to buy a kit of Caldercraft's Snake, for example, based solely on your positive experience with their instructions in Pickle, you'll be sorely disappointed; Snake is one of the older kits with far less detailed instructions.
 
Same goes for Model Shipways.  The instruction manuals in their older kits have a lot of pages, to be sure, but they don't really tell you how to accomplish many of the steps.  They'll tell you to 'plank the hull' for example, but won't tell you how to plank the hull.  MS instructions assume a certain amount of ability on behalf of the builder.  But, again, their newer kits (those designed by Chuck, for example) have much better instructions.
 
Another thing that can make it an absolute booger to make generalizations about this or that kit line is that some manufacturers have, over the years, acquired and sold kit designs that they didn't themselves design in-house.  Many times they didn't take the time and expense to update those kits, and that includes the instructions.
 
Many manufacturers are aware that their kits and instructions need updating, but ship model kits aren't a lucrative business, and if they already have a box of, say, 500 less-than-stellar instruction manuals for HMS Lollipop sitting in the warehouse, rest assured they're going to box up and sell those instruction manuals in 500 kits before they pay to have them redesigned and reprinted.  It's about economics.
 
If you really want only the best instructions, you can't go too far wrong (here I am making a generalization after I just warned about making generalizations) in taking the advice mentioned earlier in this thread: newer is better, and by 'newer' I mean as in newer kit design.  The last few years have seen a real uptick in the quality of instructions being included in kits, especially from MS, Caldercraft, Victory Models, and some of the newer European manufacturers.  Cruise the various catalogs and web sites and work from the latest releases backwards - the farther back you go, the more likely you are to get more terse instructions.
 
Kit instructions - it ain't as easy as saying Brand X instructions are better than Brand Y !

I just read through this entire thread again after seeing that another member was directed here.  I feel it is worth pointing out (again) that it is really very hard to make generalizations about the instructions in kits made by various manufacturers (with maybe the exception of the soon-to-be-defunct Midwest Products boat model line).  The simple reason is because manufacturers and their kit line-ups both change over time.
 
Take Caldercraft as an illustration of this point.  Their first dozen or so kit offerings really had very spartan instructions.  It's only their most recent kits that have had detailed instructions.  If you were to buy a kit of Caldercraft's Snake, for example, based solely on your positive experience with their instructions in Pickle, you'll be sorely disappointed; Snake is one of the older kits with far less detailed instructions.
 
Same goes for Model Shipways.  The instruction manuals in their older kits have a lot of pages, to be sure, but they don't really tell you how to accomplish many of the steps.  They'll tell you to 'plank the hull' for example, but won't tell you how to plank the hull.  MS instructions assume a certain amount of ability on behalf of the builder.  But, again, their newer kits (those designed by Chuck, for example) have much better instructions.
 
Another thing that can make it an absolute booger to make generalizations about this or that kit line is that some manufacturers have, over the years, acquired and sold kit designs that they didn't themselves design in-house.  Many times they didn't take the time and expense to update those kits, and that includes the instructions.
 
Many manufacturers are aware that their kits and instructions need updating, but ship model kits aren't a lucrative business, and if they already have a box of, say, 500 less-than-stellar instruction manuals for HMS Lollipop sitting in the warehouse, rest assured they're going to box up and sell those instruction manuals in 500 kits before they pay to have them redesigned and reprinted.  It's about economics.
 
If you really want only the best instructions, you can't go too far wrong (here I am making a generalization after I just warned about making generalizations) in taking the advice mentioned earlier in this thread: newer is better, and by 'newer' I mean as in newer kit design.  The last few years have seen a real uptick in the quality of instructions being included in kits, especially from MS, Caldercraft, Victory Models, and some of the newer European manufacturers.  Cruise the various catalogs and web sites and work from the latest releases backwards - the farther back you go, the more likely you are to get more terse instructions.
 
Kit instructions - it ain't as easy as saying Brand X instructions are better than Brand Y !

I just read through this entire thread again after seeing that another member was directed here.  I feel it is worth pointing out (again) that it is really very hard to make generalizations about the instructions in kits made by various manufacturers (with maybe the exception of the soon-to-be-defunct Midwest Products boat model line).  The simple reason is because manufacturers and their kit line-ups both change over time.
 
Take Caldercraft as an illustration of this point.  Their first dozen or so kit offerings really had very spartan instructions.  It's only their most recent kits that have had detailed instructions.  If you were to buy a kit of Caldercraft's Snake, for example, based solely on your positive experience with their instructions in Pickle, you'll be sorely disappointed; Snake is one of the older kits with far less detailed instructions.
 
Same goes for Model Shipways.  The instruction manuals in their older kits have a lot of pages, to be sure, but they don't really tell you how to accomplish many of the steps.  They'll tell you to 'plank the hull' for example, but won't tell you how to plank the hull.  MS instructions assume a certain amount of ability on behalf of the builder.  But, again, their newer kits (those designed by Chuck, for example) have much better instructions.
 
Another thing that can make it an absolute booger to make generalizations about this or that kit line is that some manufacturers have, over the years, acquired and sold kit designs that they didn't themselves design in-house.  Many times they didn't take the time and expense to update those kits, and that includes the instructions.
 
Many manufacturers are aware that their kits and instructions need updating, but ship model kits aren't a lucrative business, and if they already have a box of, say, 500 less-than-stellar instruction manuals for HMS Lollipop sitting in the warehouse, rest assured they're going to box up and sell those instruction manuals in 500 kits before they pay to have them redesigned and reprinted.  It's about economics.
 
If you really want only the best instructions, you can't go too far wrong (here I am making a generalization after I just warned about making generalizations) in taking the advice mentioned earlier in this thread: newer is better, and by 'newer' I mean as in newer kit design.  The last few years have seen a real uptick in the quality of instructions being included in kits, especially from MS, Caldercraft, Victory Models, and some of the newer European manufacturers.  Cruise the various catalogs and web sites and work from the latest releases backwards - the farther back you go, the more likely you are to get more terse instructions.
 
Kit instructions - it ain't as easy as saying Brand X instructions are better than Brand Y !

I just read through this entire thread again after seeing that another member was directed here.  I feel it is worth pointing out (again) that it is really very hard to make generalizations about the instructions in kits made by various manufacturers (with maybe the exception of the soon-to-be-defunct Midwest Products boat model line).  The simple reason is because manufacturers and their kit line-ups both change over time.
 
Take Caldercraft as an illustration of this point.  Their first dozen or so kit offerings really had very spartan instructions.  It's only their most recent kits that have had detailed instructions.  If you were to buy a kit of Caldercraft's Snake, for example, based solely on your positive experience with their instructions in Pickle, you'll be sorely disappointed; Snake is one of the older kits with far less detailed instructions.
 
Same goes for Model Shipways.  The instruction manuals in their older kits have a lot of pages, to be sure, but they don't really tell you how to accomplish many of the steps.  They'll tell you to 'plank the hull' for example, but won't tell you how to plank the hull.  MS instructions assume a certain amount of ability on behalf of the builder.  But, again, their newer kits (those designed by Chuck, for example) have much better instructions.
 
Another thing that can make it an absolute booger to make generalizations about this or that kit line is that some manufacturers have, over the years, acquired and sold kit designs that they didn't themselves design in-house.  Many times they didn't take the time and expense to update those kits, and that includes the instructions.
 
Many manufacturers are aware that their kits and instructions need updating, but ship model kits aren't a lucrative business, and if they already have a box of, say, 500 less-than-stellar instruction manuals for HMS Lollipop sitting in the warehouse, rest assured they're going to box up and sell those instruction manuals in 500 kits before they pay to have them redesigned and reprinted.  It's about economics.
 
If you really want only the best instructions, you can't go too far wrong (here I am making a generalization after I just warned about making generalizations) in taking the advice mentioned earlier in this thread: newer is better, and by 'newer' I mean as in newer kit design.  The last few years have seen a real uptick in the quality of instructions being included in kits, especially from MS, Caldercraft, Victory Models, and some of the newer European manufacturers.  Cruise the various catalogs and web sites and work from the latest releases backwards - the farther back you go, the more likely you are to get more terse instructions.
 
Kit instructions - it ain't as easy as saying Brand X instructions are better than Brand Y !

I just read through this entire thread again after seeing that another member was directed here.  I feel it is worth pointing out (again) that it is really very hard to make generalizations about the instructions in kits made by various manufacturers (with maybe the exception of the soon-to-be-defunct Midwest Products boat model line).  The simple reason is because manufacturers and their kit line-ups both change over time.
 
Take Caldercraft as an illustration of this point.  Their first dozen or so kit offerings really had very spartan instructions.  It's only their most recent kits that have had detailed instructions.  If you were to buy a kit of Caldercraft's Snake, for example, based solely on your positive experience with their instructions in Pickle, you'll be sorely disappointed; Snake is one of the older kits with far less detailed instructions.
 
Same goes for Model Shipways.  The instruction manuals in their older kits have a lot of pages, to be sure, but they don't really tell you how to accomplish many of the steps.  They'll tell you to 'plank the hull' for example, but won't tell you how to plank the hull.  MS instructions assume a certain amount of ability on behalf of the builder.  But, again, their newer kits (those designed by Chuck, for example) have much better instructions.
 
Another thing that can make it an absolute booger to make generalizations about this or that kit line is that some manufacturers have, over the years, acquired and sold kit designs that they didn't themselves design in-house.  Many times they didn't take the time and expense to update those kits, and that includes the instructions.
 
Many manufacturers are aware that their kits and instructions need updating, but ship model kits aren't a lucrative business, and if they already have a box of, say, 500 less-than-stellar instruction manuals for HMS Lollipop sitting in the warehouse, rest assured they're going to box up and sell those instruction manuals in 500 kits before they pay to have them redesigned and reprinted.  It's about economics.
 
If you really want only the best instructions, you can't go too far wrong (here I am making a generalization after I just warned about making generalizations) in taking the advice mentioned earlier in this thread: newer is better, and by 'newer' I mean as in newer kit design.  The last few years have seen a real uptick in the quality of instructions being included in kits, especially from MS, Caldercraft, Victory Models, and some of the newer European manufacturers.  Cruise the various catalogs and web sites and work from the latest releases backwards - the farther back you go, the more likely you are to get more terse instructions.
 
Kit instructions - it ain't as easy as saying Brand X instructions are better than Brand Y !

The USS Des Moines class heavy cruiser was the largest heavy cruiser ever built.  It is similar to the Baltimore class except bigger and only 1 stack.  The main difference is the Des Moines class has automatic 8” guns using an encased powder.  These guns did not use bagged powder that was normally used in guns this large.  The guns were capable of about 12 rounds per minute per barrel compared to the Baltimore class at about 6 rounds per minute. 
I am building this model for my dad which served on this ship from 1958-59 and has always wanted a model.  I am finally getting enough time to give it a good go so hopefully it will all work out.   The model is large about 88 inches (around 7.5 feet).  Even at that size the scale is relatively small compared to the scale we traditionally build wooden ships.  The reason I choose this scale is because I just hate working in a smaller scale than this.  So he had a choice this big or no model at all.  
 
The first thing in starting the model was get some plans, most came from the Floating Dry Dock some time ago, scan them and inserted into CAD.  It took a while to get them all sized and aligned properly.  After doing that I found many errors in some of the drawings that took some time to get corrected. 
 
I then worked on getting the false keel and bulkheads printed out and cut up.  The bulkheads that I had reliable information on and was fairly certain were correct; this was not a large enough number to make a sturdy hull.  I then had to work backwards after that to get the shape of the remaining bulkheads.  I did this by drawing in two bulkheads in between the ones I was certain of.  I did all the drawings in CAD; this was a trial and error type of process that took some time.  I then print them out, made a foam board template, temporary gluing them in place and started fairing them out.  After I got some faired out I then used them as a pattern and cut out the bulkheads in plywood and glued in place.  I started at the stern and worked my way up to the bow.  I used ¼” Baltic birch plywood for both the keel and bulkheads.  This was a fairly lengthy process but I am real happy with the results so far.
 
I am presently working on the planking which is going along at a steady pace, just a lot of it.  The planks are fastened to the bulkheads with glue and pin nails using an air nailer.  It works great for this as it will all be filled and covered with a polyester resin.  I am using 1/16” wood for the planking, mostly basswood but some beech was used also.  I had some leftover beech so I used what I could on this then switched to basswood which I have a lot of.  It does not matter what wood is used it will all get covered and painted.  I am hoping to finish the planking sometime after the first of the year.
 
 

Basic starting point
 


Template process
 

working my way forward with making new bulkheads
 

Bulkheads and reinforcing the keel complete, just for size comparison the Arm Virginia Sloop sitting on top
 


Planking to this point
 
 
Don
 
 

Marc, I'm still trying to figure out whatever it is you're doing in your avatar.  It looks vaguely repulsive.  

Marc, I'm still trying to figure out whatever it is you're doing in your avatar.  It looks vaguely repulsive.  

Marc, I'm still trying to figure out whatever it is you're doing in your avatar.  It looks vaguely repulsive.  

Cheers Dimitris mate.
 
After some suggestions from Daniel I have reworked the sails in a more fitting position.
 
I like, hope you do.





Working on tidying up the hull and refitting the crown on the stern.

Then its on with the yards/sails after the break.

All the best Frank. 

There is nothing better than raw, young, fresh, caught a few hours ago from the sea herring (Dutch - haring) with a touch of finely cut white onions. Every 2 years when I visit my mother in Amsterdam the first thing I do the next day is go to the local fish shop in her area and have a few of these.
 
Marcus

Marc, I'm still trying to figure out whatever it is you're doing in your avatar.  It looks vaguely repulsive.  

You're right.  I definitely should have given them a nod. EDIT: They have been added to the original post.

UPDATED 12/2022
 
The tutorial I will be writing will use a free kit as its subject, but supposing you wished to buy a paper model kit, where could you get one, and who makes the best kits?
 
The first question is rather easier to answer than the second, so we'll start by discussing the various publishing houses.  Few card model designers run their own publishing outfit; usually the designers farm their kits out to one or more publishing houses.  This makes it a little difficult to generalize about Publisher A versus Publisher B, because a designer might have his or her design published at both places.  Lesson: It pays to take note of who designed a particular kit you like, then look for that designer's work at different sites.  Something else to make note of is the date of publication.  CAD designing did not become commonplace until about the turn of the new century -- the earlier a kit is published prior to 2000, the more likely it is to be hand-drawn.  This is not to say that all hand-drawn kits are bad (they aren't) or that CAD-drawn kits are always preferable (they aren't either), but CAD-drawn kits usually have more and finer detail.
 
With that in mind, let's take a look at some of the major publishing firms.  This is by no means an exhaustive list, because due to the nature of the product and the fact that it can easily be electronically distributed, there are dozens of Mom and Pop sites that may have a limited offering available.  Here's a few of the better-known outfits:
 
WAK: This is currently my favorite Polish publisher and shop, as they have the best shipping rates to the US.
 
GPM:  GPM are one of the largest card model publishers in Poland.  They have a large selection of ship models in many scales, both in their own line and from many other publishers as well.  They also have an extensive inventory of after-market accessories.  Ordering by mail from Poland is usually not terribly expensive.  GPM's listed postage rates are steep, but according to reports from other modelers, GPM will calculate the actual postage charge and refund the difference between that and the rate calculated at their website.
 
Modelik:  Modelik carries only their own line of models, but as discussed previously, these are not all the work of one designer.  Modelik kits are generally well-regarded in the hobby.  Modelik charges a flat shipping rate of 15 EUR per order.
 
JSC:  JSC have an extensive line of ship models and are one of the few Polish publishers to offer a large selection of models in a scale other than the usual 1/200 favored in that country; JSC kits are normally either 1/250 or 1/400.  Many of JSC's kits are older hand-drawn designs.  JSC sells directly to the public and through other on-line retailers.
 
Kartonowy Arsenal (KA):  Better known by the surname of its owner and chief designer, Halinski, KA offer highly detailed models of mostly WWII warships.  Though often considered suited only for advanced modelers, the fact that they usually fit together so well eliminates some of the problems found in less well designed kits.  KA does not sell directly to the public. (EDIT (2022): KA does now sell directly from their site, although the ordering process is not what you might expect. You send an email specifying the products you wish to order, and then KA sends you a quote.)
 
Orel:  This Ukrainian publisher is relatively new to the scene, but they have been prolific.  They offer a large selection of mainly Czarist-era Russian vessels, including torpedo boats, destroyers, cruisers, and pre-Dreadnoughts in 1/200 scale.  Orel sells directly to the public as well as through larger firms like GPM. (UPDATE (Dec. 2022): Due to the current hostilities in Ukraine, Orel is not currently accepting orders.)
 
HMV:  The Hamburger Modellbaubogen Verlag is probably the premier German ship model publishing house.  Like other German publishers, their kits come in the 1/250 scale preferred in Germany.  They have a wide selection of mostly German warships, passenger ships, and merchantmen.  They also offer an extensive line of after-market detail sets.  HMV have been good about upgrading their designs, and several of their older hand-drawn models are currently being reworked as CAD models.  HMV does not sell directly to the public from their website.
 
Moewe Verlag:  Also known as Wilhelmshavener, this publisher has an extensive line of warships, passenger ships, and merchantmen in 1/250.  Ordering from them can be kind of tricky, since many of their kits are hand-drawn models dating as far back as the 1960’s, and this isn’t always obvious when browsing their website.  MV kits tend to be less detailed than HMV kits, but they have a broader selection and somewhat lower prices.  They don’t offer after-market detail sets.  Moewe kits can be purchased on-line from their website.
 
J F Schreiber:  Schreiber are the third major German publisher.  Their kits are, as a rule, less detailed than either HMV or Moewe, but they offer more kits of simpler subjects suited to beginning modelers.  They also offer more kits in 1/100 scale than other publishers.  Schreiber operates an on-line store.
 
Paper Shipwright:  Designer David Hathaway’s line of kits is unique in its extensive offering of monitors.  David also designs small passenger craft and working vessels.  These are generally very good kits and also reasonably priced, with a fair but not overwhelming amount of detail.  Paper Shipwright kits can be ordered directly from their website.
 
Shipyard: The premier publisher of card model sailing subjects. Shipyard kits are distributed in the US by Ages of Sail.
 
In addition to the aforementioned publishers, many excellent designs are available from smaller outfits, some notable ones of which include Digital Navy and Answer (perhaps not exactly 'small outfits', but their ship model selections are limited).  As noted, some of these publishers sell directly to the public, and some don’t.  Finding a retailer that carries the kits you want can sometimes be a taxing ordeal, but here are some of the more popular sites:
 
GPM, Orlik, and Model-Hobby are three of the larger Polish retailers, each carrying their own in-house models as well as designs from other firms.
Karton Modell Shop is a German retailer with a good selection from a variety of designers.
Marcle Models are one of the larger distributors in the UK.
Paper Model Store is practically the only US retailer with a broad selection of Polish kits.  None from Germany, though. (UPDATE: The PMS website has been inactive for years now, and the seller appears to selling on eBay these days.)
E-Cardmodels is a retail venue for a slew of small designers -- a lot of variety of subjects, scales, and degree of difficulty.
HMV are sold through Fentens Paper Models. As of December, 2022, HMV is looking for a new US distributor.
 
There are many, many other places to buy kits on-line, but these should get you started.  Have fun browsing!
 
Back to Part II: Start for FREE!     On to Pt. IV: Tools & Other Supplies

november 2015

Depends entirely on how thick the originals were.  If the plans say 3/32, then that is probably the correct scale thickness.  Since the kit is also in 3/32" scale, that indicates bulwarks 1 foot thick, which may be about right.on the original.

Here are the three active whaleboats complete with oars, masts and sails. These are the SilkSpan sails, which look pretty good furled.  
 
~john
 

My third build will be the SMS Emden. It has a history for us Aussies I suppose.  I won't go into the history as there is the whole of the internet for that.
 
Revell brought out a twin kit recently which will be good if I stuff up something, as I don't intend on building both it and the Dresden. There are a lot of open source builds on the net for this kit, most of which seem to be strait out of the box.
 
I managed to purchase the last set of draughts in 1/200 on the internet for Peter Huff's 1995 publication. I had a look at the Kagero book and yet again, their research leaves a bit to be desired, as the even the photos don't match.  
 
The kit will need a LOT of bashing. Thus more internet shopping for bits and pieces.  Heaps of work, but that's the joy of it.
 
I got the Eduard Emden photo etch set for a start. A lot of the sprues look like they have been put in  an oven as they just look blurry with very little detail. There will be very little of the original kit used but the hull is nice.
 
I'm thinking six or more months, given my Varyag has a lot more detail but also a lot more commercially available extras. This era is not well represented for after market.