bdgiantman2

Thank you for the reply to my blog. I have read at least parts of that book by Dr. Kevin Crisman, found a copy of it through my local library. Through e-mail correspondence with Dr. Crisman, he has shared with me an updated article in a later publication. I will have to visit the video link you have shared at a later time as I will soon leave for work.

I have never seen a ship model kit like this one. Like the looks of your progress so far. Keep up the progress. Brian

So here is first progress on the build. During the holiday season, Santa brought a new toy for my workshop. It's a mini table-saw with 4 in diameter blades from Model Expo. This table saw wouldn't be as good as some of the rest of you have, but with my budget right now this is the best I can afford. Started to copy the individual pieces that make up the keel of Brig Eagle. There are three section pieces not including the bow and stern timbers for the keel of this model. I quickly re-learned how helpful it is to have a good source of back light while trying to trace the individual shapes as well as making sure the paper I will be using to trace the shapes onto is large enough to fit the whole piece onto the new paper. To attempt making things easier for myself (a lesson I learned in the mistakes from Yacht Mary), I will be intentionally making both the main keel as well as the keelson 1/16 inch thicker than mentioned on the plans provided by Gene Bodnar. This will be the same as the notches in the keel timbers found in the plans through Bernard Frolich. Also the other week I received an order I had placed through Blue Jacket for the various cannons for this ship model. Eagle had 8 long cannons of 12 lb balls and 12 carronades capable of lobbing 32 lb balls. The guns need to be cleaned up a bit and maybe hollowed out at least a little bit. Research done states that will be needing very sharp drill bits and going at slow speeds. At a later date will be making own carriages for the different guns out of wood. I know that Chuck provides very accurate models of the carriages on his site. Will need to purchase the blackening formula Blue Jacket provide at a later date.

So I have shelved for the time being my Yacht Mary build, there are a lot of areas I am needing to learn better and sought out new builds to gain experience. ***DRUM ROLL*** To gain the experience desired, I have decided to build the Brig Eagle from the 1814 war on Lake Champlain against the British. The history of Eagle seems pretty well known, as there are several other blogs on here building this beautiful ship. The Eagle had a short known life and historical significance, but she played a great role in defeating the British for the last time against the Americans. This model is a scratch-build, and I am planning to involve Chuck's model of the Long Boat kit as well. This model project is being built at 1:48 scale. I will be using Yellow Alaskan Cedar for this build. Got some wood from Chuck Passaro and additional wood from a lumber specialist locally. Many thanks to Mr. Chuck Passaro, ChadB, Bill Edgin, Dr. Kevin Crisman, and Gene Bodnar

Interesting project you are undertaking. Being from San Diego has extra meaning to me. Looking over the pictures you have provided, I am amazed at how similar in profile this vessel looks to the nuclear cargo ship Savannah, except that your ship has twin funnels and probably has diesel power. Brian

Mr. Passaro, this ship model is looking great, love all the details you are working in. Even though I think I saw you have a kit already, I found out that you can get a very realistic 1:48 scale Brodie Stove close to right time era that is made on a 3d printer. https://www.shapeways.com/product/BT9SFSJNH/ships-stove-1-4-22-scale?optionId=63358126&li=marketplace Brian D

Incredible model, this ship is a beautiful vessel. Another museum quality project you have built. Looking at the plan pictures that you provided, I find it interesting that there is no post with cradles between the forward mast bitts and those hatches in the deck that would have helped support the polls that held up the lifeboat. Perhaps those cradles are built on the forecastle deck instead.

Personally I would have though that the coaming pieces would have been painted red not only because these often had additional cannon balls stored around them but also to make easier to see in the dark than ones painted black. Maybe I am getting mixed up with later times than the Winnie. Glad to see the deck finally coming in on this model. Great progress by all, this has been a favorite blog to read each week. Brian

This has been an interesting recycling experiment with the old piano keys being used in your model. So far looking very good. Keep up the great work. Brian

You, sir, are an amazing model builder. I admire this ship and your work is top quality. Great job building the sheet bitts for the lifeboat in front of the main mast. Your models seem to always have a life of their own the way can see into the interiors and all the details that you put in. This has been the best I have seen so far of your blogs. Keep it up. Brian

Hey Chuck and all the other builders of this model, all of you are doing an amazing job - I have enjoyed following this forum. I don't know if I am missing something in looking at the pictures and reading the posts. If I remember correctly, the wale lines of the ship stuck out farthest (thickest part of the entire hull). I can't tell from the many pictures looked at on this forum, it honestly looks like all planks are the same thickness and some painted or stained black. Brian

Merry Christmas to you as well, even though I just follow in admiration of what you are doing. Looking at other models of British warships around the same era, I have noticed many have that railing over the q-galleries painted white, and the hull plating around the railing that same color as the stripe passing through the gun ports. Will you be doing that on your model? Brian

I have my kit of this little boat, and I am looking forward to starting construction. However, because of my work schedule, at this time I will not be able to start the construction until after Christmas. Brian

Hello Toni. Sorry to hear you are having computer issues, those can be super frustrating. A few weeks ago I got my kit in the mail, I am excited to be starting soon while following your blog. At the beginning of the blog I think you mentioned briefly about options for openings for the gun ports. I am interested in seeing more about this, as some of the support pieces the kit provides you were placing right in the middle of the ports. Brian

I am also interested in this practice kit. When I went to the NRG home page, as Kurt suggested, I couldn't find the link to place order for this model. Brian D

If I remember correctly from the original thesis by Dr. Crisman, they did have saws "powered" by waterfalls or similar way by river currents. Now not the same as our modern power equipment, but I know what you mean. In another book I have about ships from the same time period, another popular device used is rough rock blocks dubbed "Holy Stones" because the same size as average Bible from that time for sanding decks and hull.

I agree completely with Mike and Tim. Although you did thoroughly explain earlier in the blog spelling out how you did it, seeing the video helped a lot. Thanks for taking the time to do that.

Am I seeing small pieces of PVC pipe being used for base of masts? If so, that is sneaky of you. Brian

Mike, your model of the Winchelsea is coming along very nicely. I admire the work you and Chuck do on your ships. I evidently don't know what this belt term being mentioned for the area you are building is referring to. Have never heard of this belt in any of the books I use for my guidance. Keep up the great work. Brian

I see that the ol' paintbrush has been busy lately. The sleek hull looks really nice now painted, as well as the other areas as well. I like the shrubs you are placed around the pool and elsewhere on the ship, and your furniture building skills always amaze me. I don't think though that the pool in stern would be all frothy like you have it, it isn't a jacuzzi. Brian

You, sir, are doing an amazing job on this model. Very clean and professional looking. Keep up this project. Brian

Maybe you could use some really thin pieces of cardboard or the material used to make manila envelopes to make up that half of a millimeter spacing? Just a thought. Brian

Absolutely incredible work planking the lower hull of your Winnie model, Mr. Passaro. Now after this overload of information, I want to make sure I am understanding correctly as I am very new to your style of building and markings. So you want us to take a strip of sticky paper, and make markings on this piece of paper with the beams to plank the hull (you are calling these belts?). Then we are to put this piece of paper onto each rib of any model and make additional tick marks on the actual ribs and after get all the markings done then can use either tape or planks to make sure everything is all properly made? And then after making sure everything lines up properly can start gluing on the hull planks onto the model. Brian

I really like my Dremel Scroll Saw that I got through Home Depot (should be $60, maybe a tad less). The saw is very accurate and easy to use, the only one issue I have is no tilt-base (although I don't really need it thanks to my disc and belt sander). I have yet to get a modeling table saw nor do I have any lathe as of yet. Small steps but do what I can with what I have. Brian

Very nicely done model of Niagara, sir. The only one thing I want to say is I am a little personally concerned about how some of the ropes from that three-way joint midships passes right in front of the carronades. In my research and reading about the brigs of 1812 war, Niagara was notorious for catching her own rigging on fire shooting off the carronades. Brian