bdgiantman2

I have been fascinated about the A-10 for a while now, a very unique aircraft. Am working on two builds of the two-seater night and all-weather versions of this aircraft in two different scales.

Greg and Druxey, thank you for providing more details about this. I did not realize that the dales were removeable, but agree that they would be a tripping hazard in a already confined space. Brian D.

Mike, your model continues to be an amazement to follow and you give great teaching. Great work on here and keep it up. I have one question involving the chain pumps. Looking at the book Cross-Section Man-of-War, the book shows wooden chutes (apparently named dales) that would transport water from the pumps out the side of the ship. However, these chutes (dales) would be extremely close to some cannons. Neither you nor Mr. Passaro have shown these thus far. Would these be accurate? Brian D.

Hi Yves. This has been a fun project to follow and you have been doing a great job of printing and building this ship. I hope the corvette blows up that U-boat! lol. Brian

I am envious of how clean and precise your work always is, especially your keels and the deadwood. You, sir, are worthy of the title Maestro 🙇‍♂️

Nicely made Brodie stove. Wish I could get a copy of this design. Great job on this model ship. Brian

There he goes, off and running

Mark, buddy, I will be following you on this one. I enjoy following your builds on here. From another blog on here it seems a well made kit. Brian

For those of you who may be curious, you can see clearly in this picture how bad the curve is in the deadwood frames. I really thought that using the clamps was going to straighten these out, but the clamps made zero difference. When I was gluing the pieces together, I was able to place clamps on the bottom two pieces of the deadwood; but the upper two pieces, being diagonal, I wasn't able to use the clamps on. I fear that I am going to have to re-make the upper two pieces if not the entire deadwood. Brian

My project is the same scale as the other blogs of this ship, 1:48 scale.

Thanks for the reply, your Eagle build is coming along. Yeah, I agree it is easy to get distracted with those Winnie blogs, some of those models are coming out amazing.

Alrighty, my friends. I finally have gotten most of the keel cut out. I seriously envy those of you reading this who have those fancy milling machines Finally was able to get the safety key needed to operate my bandsaw, was able to get replacements through Amazon.com. Then carefully cut the strips needed with a jury-rigged rip-fence, followed by the painstakingly slow process of cutting and sanding the groves for the hull ribs. The deadwood is the only part glued together right now. It seems to cave a bit, the deadwood that is. When holding it up vertically it shows better despite holding the deadwood with tight clamps to a piece of plywood that my plans are draped over. Those of you who I know have sharp eyes will notice some color changes in the deadwood. Found out had some gaps in the deadwood, so stuffed those gaps with glue and basswood sawdust from a Ziplock bag I have. It works though, looks a lot smoother. I still need to make the appropriate grooves into the deadwood for the half-frames in the stern, and am needing to cut the stem pieces themselves out still. Thank you so much for the thumbs-up on here and for following. Brian

I personally wonder though how much of that carried wood would be for repairing the ship at sea vs for using as cooking material.

I think they would carry small amounts of coal to first start a fire in the galley stoves, but one of the things it seems they would do was burning the boards from barrels that had been taken apart upon being emptied. Now I admit that I have no clue how often the stoves were allowed to burn out during a voyage other than weather related or even if put out at night.

Experienced friends, I have attached the first two planks of the Longboat model. It is looking right so far I think (keeping fingers crossed it stays this way for me🤞), but always open to input from those who have done this kit. Even though the instructions don't do this, I removed the middle of two of the frames of the boat so that I could place clamps and hold the the top plank easier which I didn't need to do for the plank nearest the keel. Brian

Jorge, your Winnie model looks great, and very nice job with the cannon bays. Also you did a great job with all of the additional frames to show every frame of the real ship. Your gray and white cat is my favorite of your fuzzy helpers. Cheers! Brian

Hello my friends. So not a whole lot has improved with this model. As I was attempting to make the keel using Yellow Alaskan Cedar from Mr. Passaro, I quickly stumbled upon issues. The cedar was getting grain fuzz similar to that of basswood. Doing some research, I finally found one solution in buying a bitt for one of those milling machines instead of the regular Dremel bitts. That helped a little, but not much. So I reached out to Mr. Passaro by e-mail on here and he was kindly suggesting trying Boxwood. Turns out he has a vendor through the Syren site. Joe was helpful as could be and very prompt about mailing merchandise. I am very happy with the products that I received from him. But then came the next problem. Taking some time off from work to clear my head out, I was going to start cutting my new Boxwood when I found out that the safety key to operate my bandsaw is missing. Going to have to make another trip to the Home Depot and look for a new safety key. In the mean time, I had bought a plank of Yellow Alaskan Cedar from a wood dealer in Denver and have started for the time being the extremely slow process of cutting pieces off manually with a hand saw. Also in the meantime, I have decided to start building my two ships boats. One is the longboat kit by Mr. Passaro supplied through Model-Expo, and the other is a kit made by Model-Expo of a little four and a quarter inch model boat I will be using as the Captain's launch. In my readings about the history of the Brig Eagle by Dr. Crisman, the brig had one boat for sure as half of the crew often would row to shore for sleeping on shore. Books of other ships from the same time period indicate that the captain's boat was strictly for the use of the captain, so I am making my model with two boats.

I really like the blue paint on the bow myself, a nice contrast to the black paint of the wales. And it makes the figurehead really stand out in sharply too. Nicely done model.

Thank you for your reply. I have enclosed a picture you shared of the object asking about, it definitely looks like was made using a laser. Looked up T-tracks on Amazon as you suggested and couldn't find anything like these. Assuming that you did make these, how much would you charge to order some?

Nice progress so far with your model of the Winnie. Looking over your photos, I have been intrigued about those sliders you have for holding keel center. Where did you get those? I am wanting some for my new model. Keep up the great progress. Brian

Personally, I like the ceiling planking, it is very clean and tight. And if I remember correctly, the CAD images that Captain Hook shared earlier do show the whole midships area none-planked, so I see it as a little of best of both sides. On my current build, I am wanting to do something similar. Keep up the great work on this model, sir! Brian

Hey Jim, there is a build I have been following where this guy in Europe is constructing a section of hull of a 74 gun ship showing cannon arrangements and accessories. He has cleats for each of the lower deck guns built onto the beams of the deck above. Here is the link to his blog showing the inside works.

Thanks for the info, Mark. I finally found the links after a lot of looking. And discovered that I have saved the information that I was looking for several years ago on my USB stick. Silly me, I should have looked there first since I have a file about Triton on there.

Impressive outcome on this sectional model, sir. I am curious, is there an instruction manual that comes with this or did you make this completely on your own? I have seen the group-build page of this by Chuck, will continue to see what more I can find. Brian

That was the biggest option available on Blue Jacket for their Heavy Bower pewter anchors. There is another option available that is longer, but was dated 17th century and I knew that wouldn't be very appropriate. They have a wood option that was over an inch shorter. Like I said in the intro to this discussion, I wasn't sure about the proper length. Using my drafting ruler on the printed sheets of Eagle, the anchors would be blocking cannon operations perhaps up to two ports in full scale. Taking out two guns is a lot of lost firepower. But I guess that is a problem of having built the ship so quickly. In research that I have done, Lake Champlain at it's deepest part is 400' down, which is deep for a lake; this area also happens to be at least two miles south of where the battle took place and the wrecks found.