bdgiantman2

Interesting provision of early drawings there, Mr. Passaro as well as Greg. Looking those prints over, I am curious about that sail room. Not only does it look extremely small, but folding those sails to fit in that small room would have been heavy and cumbersome.  My suspicion is that there is more of the sail room under the forecastle deck allowing the sails to fold and store more easily. Am I on the right track?
 
Brian D

This is what I am going for in the end.
 
 

You should put together a book with your rigging technique.  I would buy it in a heartbeat.  Meanwhile, your log is a frequent visit for me.
 
While I would be hard pressed to duplicate your work, a goal would be to get a similar look..

Interesting provision of early drawings there, Mr. Passaro as well as Greg. Looking those prints over, I am curious about that sail room. Not only does it look extremely small, but folding those sails to fit in that small room would have been heavy and cumbersome.  My suspicion is that there is more of the sail room under the forecastle deck allowing the sails to fold and store more easily. Am I on the right track?
 
Brian D

Interesting provision of early drawings there, Mr. Passaro as well as Greg. Looking those prints over, I am curious about that sail room. Not only does it look extremely small, but folding those sails to fit in that small room would have been heavy and cumbersome.  My suspicion is that there is more of the sail room under the forecastle deck allowing the sails to fold and store more easily. Am I on the right track?
 
Brian D

Lovely touch and a tip of the hat to SeaWatch!

Hi
 
With the bulkhead closing the chamber, the "fine" carpentry is for later, now and before installing more equipment on the deck I will make the lining of the submerged part of the frigate’s hull since for this operation I have to put the keel up.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Adrián Sorolla

I don't think I've ever seen a POF hull built in that manner before, but the end result looks great!

Speedwell was designed for shore patrol so overnight accomodations were not usually a worry. Your "great cabin" would have been occupied by a Lieutenant (she didn't rate a Captain) and I'll be he would have been thrilled with your ecoutriments.

While a sizable amount of time has past since my last post. Work on the model has progressed at what I would consider a snails pace. As we can all relate, each step presents its own set of challenges. The stern section was something I was really looking forward to. Time will tell if I deciphered the plans correctly. I'm finding the process of cutting in the cannon port rather tedious. As a result, I only do it when the mood strikes. Enjoy the pictures. 
 
 

This ship model has been a delight to follow. I have come to like seeing those frames being visible, it would be a shame to cover them in my opinion. Those frames are so realistic and most public has no clue this is how real ships were made back then.
 
Brian D

This ship model has been a delight to follow. I have come to like seeing those frames being visible, it would be a shame to cover them in my opinion. Those frames are so realistic and most public has no clue this is how real ships were made back then.
 
Brian D

Such amazing work!  If one did not know better, one might say that you are actually building a real ship and not a model.

This ship model has been a delight to follow. I have come to like seeing those frames being visible, it would be a shame to cover them in my opinion. Those frames are so realistic and most public has no clue this is how real ships were made back then.
 
Brian D

This ship model has been a delight to follow. I have come to like seeing those frames being visible, it would be a shame to cover them in my opinion. Those frames are so realistic and most public has no clue this is how real ships were made back then.
 
Brian D

This ship model has been a delight to follow. I have come to like seeing those frames being visible, it would be a shame to cover them in my opinion. Those frames are so realistic and most public has no clue this is how real ships were made back then.
 
Brian D

The 1 port lid:
 

I am wondering what was stored exactly in these bench lockers? They probably were only accessible by officers.
 
Yves

That is a dream workshop Gianpiero. I love the way your bench power tools slide out for easy access. And you have your very own museum to boot! Speaking for everyone else here - we're jealous!

Your progress on this model is incredible, great detailing throughout this ship! Speedwell is definitely being done justice.  I only hope I can make a model half as good as I progress along.
 
Brian D

Evening, 
Hope everyone is well. Weekend is in view. Absolutely no commitments, no work, no responsibilities this weekend.
Just have to get thru Friday. 
I see some quality ship building.  We'll see what ultimately happens, ya know....life happens. 
 
Any who, 
 
Let's start off right with an update. 
Rigging continues.
With all the shrouds in on the fore mast, I wanted to tie off some lifts, sheets and clew lines running from the yards.
All along I wanted the black standing rigging in first, then install what limited running rigging I plan on installing.  

I wasn't quite sure if the rope should go over or under at the pin rail. Tried for a pleasing look.  
Coils will be added later.
I seem to prefer wood clips while rigging. 
Heavy enough, yet light enough that if I hook it with a shirt sleeve, the whole boat doesn't go flying. 

All along I've been following the plans as towards rigging.
Some of the below lines I did adjust on the pin rail so as not to foul with any other lines further up the mast. 
Seemed logical. 

Both sides of course. 

With all of that in place, the royal backstays were installed. 
There's some fuzz on my ropes. 
Admittedly, this ship does not have a case yet so it does get dusty.
It really isn't as bad as it looks. 

Both sides of course. 
Minus some braces and ratlines, the foremast rigging will be done. 

Be good, 
 
Tom E 
 
 

I'm seeing a ship!! She looks great, keep up this project

Thanks for the comments chaps.
 
Here is an update. I have completed the deck. That seems a big milestone - with the hull and deck planked all the repetetive donkey work is behind and now its the fun fiddly bits.
 
To plank the hull I fixed a battern with a curve that looked something like it and then tick stripped and planked from the outside inboard. I know its not the approved way but it works for me.
 
I glued the deck fittings down with a prit-stick - is that what you Americans call rubbber glue? - so I could pull then up to sand the deck easily.
 



I left out the captain's chequerboard floor. I'm not quite sure why. I suppose I slightly prefer plain old planks. What, I wonder would the chequerboard be made of? Patrick O'Brian has Captain Aubrey rolling his up when calling action stations I seem to recall so I guess its a waxed sailcloth ?
 
I mad the fixed blocks up on my Proxxon mill.

 And here is the present state of play:





All the best everyone
Fred
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Your progress on this model is incredible, great detailing throughout this ship! Speedwell is definitely being done justice.  I only hope I can make a model half as good as I progress along.
 
Brian D

Thanks Rusty...
 
Just a small update...
 
Now that the aft platforms are completed it made sense to plank the great cabin next.   First thing to do was add the laser cut deck clamps.   These have notches cut for the qdeck beams.   You can see the deck clamp added below.   The aft side needs to be beveled to fit flush against the transom.   The forward side is left a bit long so you can trim it to fit neatly in place.  That forward-most beam notch is a bit longer to give us some wiggle room later for the placement of that beam.  In addition before gluing it in...you must shape where the qbadge window is.  Sand the shape into the bottom edge of the deck clamp as shown.  Because it could be in a slightly different position model-to-model, this detail is not laser cut into the deck clamp.
 
NOTE the red arrow.   The bottom of the notch in the clamp should be even with the top of the window or even slightly higher.  But it should not be below the top edge of the windows.   If it is, you should make adjustments before gluing it onto the model.  In addition, the bottom of these beam notches should NOT be altered.  However, when you test fit the beams and find you need to make adjustments, you can absolutely enlarge the notches on the sides and top for a better fit.   Just carefully chisel out some of the deck clamp or the planking above it to accommodate your beams.  

 
Next we will plank the inboard side of the great cabin.   I am sure most of you could do this without any issues, but to help make it easier, there is a template on the plans.  See below.
This should make it easier to cut each strake with the appropriate tapers.  There are six strakes.  I highly recommend that these planks be cut from a 3/64" sheet as they are somewhat wide at the stern.   Plus they are pretty much all drawn out for you.  I will also add that you may have to make small adjustments because depending on where you aft platform ended up , you may have a slightly different area of space.  Adjust the template accordingly and cut your planks to fit.  Again they are 3/64" thick.
 

Below shows the cabin planked inboard.  I carefully cut around that window and did simulate caulking for the plank seams.  I just used full length planks rather than show any possible butt joints.  They wont be seen anyway.  Note the forward edge of the planking runs down the FORWARD edge of the hull frame.  Keep the forward esge nice and neat right down the edge of that hull frame.
 
You might see some laser cut qdeck beams in that picture as well.  They are just laying on the lower platform.  Although we wont be adding them just yet, it will be to our benefit to have them handy while we do the next steps of fitting out the cabin benches and rudder trunk details.  The laser char was removed from the deck beams and they were cut to length.  It takes some practice on the first few to get the length correct so they sit nicely in those notches.  But dont throw it away if you cut it too short.  Just use it for the next shorter beam and work from the forward side aft when doing this.
 

 
Test fitting the qdeck beams....none are glued in as I mentioned.  Note the extra space on the first beam at the deck clamp notch.   This will let us move it around where needed when we start work on the bulkheads there.  If any of you are having a problem slipping the beams into those notches, you could easily add  another strip of say 1/8 x 1/32 cedar following the bottom of the notches and it would be fine.  I did not find the need to do that however.  But you might find it easier if there was a second layer that stood proud of the planking a bit to rest your beams on.  Builder's choice...