ross

I just found this thread and have read it through as I am about to embark on the same build. What a beautiful job. I can only hope that mine will be half as nice when I am done. 

All decks done, gunports done. time to start the second planking



And we're all up to date at this point. Will post an update soon 
 
Erik

The hull is now finished as well as the ships boat.  Next up are the cannon.
 

Other images . . 
 
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18 20170830_102811.jpg 

 
19 20170830_102806.jpg 

That's a beautiful looking model,you have more than done it justice,infact I like it that mutch I am very tempted to purchase one,very well done.

Hey Eddie mate thanks for checking in ,question guys any idea on the scale I should be naming and basing this thing on heres some pics with my 1/50 scale tourists clearly wrong scale

Congratulations Gramps/Anthony. I am looking forward to following along with your build, as this boat has peaked my interest, being Sicilian as I am.

I thought I would share my little idea for plank bending.
 
 
I'm not sure how original it is, but I have never seen one just like it..
 
 
Basically, it is half the bottom of a large tin can, attached to a base board.
 

 
I place the end of my wet plank into the slot  and use a clamp to adjust the amount
of bend ..  ( I soak in plain water for a few of minutes, depending on the type of wood )
 
 

 
 
I direct a hot blow dryer onto the jig for about two minutes.  This is usually enough to dry the wood.
This picture does not show the wood, but it is there when the dryer is on.
 

 
I wait at least 5 minutes before taking the wood out of the jig.  It needs to cool before the bend is fully set.
 

Progress during the day and evening.
Even the Admiral was impress once back home from events.
The sanding of the laser chard was a progress itself as this hull is clinker shaped.
If each frame/bulkhead would have circular shape it would had been a faster process.
Now the two sides are done.
Resting time until planking.
Strange how the smell of laser chard dust clings to your body while sanding.

The tabs for the propeller and rudder shaft is to removed once the hull is assembled and planked.

So simple,great idea, will be trying that when i get round to the rat lines on my endeavour,thank you  ,

So simple,great idea, will be trying that when i get round to the rat lines on my endeavour,thank you  ,

So simple,great idea, will be trying that when i get round to the rat lines on my endeavour,thank you  ,

Hi Bob
 
Nothing that's designed nowadays, (it seems), can come even close to the grace and classiness of the designs that were typical of the era of your boat. 
 
I guess that's why your boat has such widespread appeal.  Oh.... and, what a top job you're doing, too!
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

And finally a couple of pictures of the carriage I built for my granddaughter(Christmas gift), this is an Amati kit
 

Hi Guys,
 
Well here we are, back on familiar ground with a kit build although there is an awful lot on this boat that needs to be scratched. 
 
The Armed Launch was used by different navies during the 19th century, approx. 10 metres in length it was armed with different size guns, one large cannon at the bow and two small swivel guns at the stern.
 
These boats were used for coastal patrols or in escort services, they also demonstrated their wartime capabilities in surprise actions by attacking craft in trouble, anchored up or in the roads. 
 
The model is triple planked with the first planking on full show on the inboard, this planking is Walnut, the second planking is for strength and is Lime, the last planking should be Walnut but I want to change this to Swiss Pear, I want a bare wood finish if possible and I want to keep the paint away from the main parts of the boat.
 
I started with the keel by cutting two 3mm rabbits, I'm not too sure if this was the right thing to do but it's done and so I have to make it work.
 
With the rabbits cut I dry fitted the bulkheads, the top 2/3rds will be removed when the planking is completed, these were then glued into place and the alignment deck put in position, this deck plays no part in the final boat, it's purely to keep the bulkheads square whilst planking.
 
I started the first planking (Walnut) and have so far got just about halfway and so it continues, care has to taken as this first layer is on full show apart from the bow section.
 
I hope all that follow this build will enjoy the trip and please feel free to offer any advice / comments along the way.
 
Some pictures
 
First up the obligatory kit shots 
 
 

 
The Keel in my clamp showing a Rabbit

 
Bulkheads dry fitted

 
Bow block attached and alignment deck in place

 
The first three rows on both sides

 

 
Not very exciting at the moment is it.
 
I'm not right upto-date with the pictures but they would only be more of the same planking so that it for now, I will post again when I have more progress, that will be a bit slow due to the time of year and the Admirals just do jobs.
 
Please feel free to make any comments guys.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 

Greetings,
 
An alternative to the typical hardwood baseboard with brass pedestals for ships that may not come with cradles, I like to make my own. I have used oak, ipei, maple, with simple pedestals of my own design. For my current project I found a weathered 2x4 on the beach that I will cut down to correct length. I will also reduce the thickness to about an inch. We live on Narragansett Bay, so one can usually find all the weathered wood needed. The particular 2x4 I found has turned grey and the edges have beautifully rounded due to "life at sea". I expect I will make up some pedestals from other wood I have kicking around. Wood pedestals provide another option for mounting the ship to the base instead of the typical screw. I cut slots in the pedestals to accommodate the keel width then, with the ship set in place, I drill small holes (1/16" dia.) horizontally through the pedestal slots and the keel. I then drive a tight fitting brass pin (usually stuff left over from kits) through the holes in the keel/pedestals. The length of the pin is the outside width of the pedestal. The pins should fit such that they can easily be pushed through the holes for removal. Note: the pedestals should be fastened to the baseboard with screws that are the correct length to avoid piercing the bottoms of the slots which would prevent the keel from settling in to position.     
 
wq3296
 
 

excelent work as always,keep it up.Ross

Hello Richard ,all looking good,keep up the good work, Ross. Afellow Yorkshire man.

excelent work as always,keep it up.Ross

Wow this build is looking excelent,keep up the good work.(cant wait to get started on mine)

Thanks Jeff.  Never thought of just doing one   . I think I will do that and see how it looks.  I think I will need to paint the cast white metal parts though as don't think the blackening will work on them.
 
Thanks Ferit, I will leave the bumpkins with the varnished finish.  Unfortunately they are built up with ply pieces which kind of stand out but happy enough with them.  I couldn't decide whether to paint the cat-heads black or leave varnished but 99% sure will leave them as is also.
 
Good advice Greg.  I will leave off things like anchors which will catch sleeves etc but the cat-heads etc don't stick out to much and pretty solidly attached.
 
Hi Mick, most references, including the AOTS show them on the rails.  I think only CC have them going through the bulwarks.  Seems to be dispute whether Endeavour had them at all but I like the look of them so decided to go with that and stuck with the kit method also. 
 
"Someone did tell me what it's called but I have slept since then    "
ROFL It gets a bit like that sometimes.  They are called thumb cleats and redid them today and glued them on.  Photo below.
 

 
Cheers
Slog

Hi Slog,
 
Great job on the anchors they look fantastic    

No worries Sam, I assumed it was a mix up  .  Thanks for the info on the wire.
 
 
As mentioned up above I decided to do the pumps but after seeing Mikes scratch pumps and then checking Steve’s and Greg's who also scratched the pumps I set them aside until I decide what to do.
 
 
The photo shows the cast white metal components which are quite chunky.  The castings themselves were of decent quality needing only a touch up with a file to clean off some casting seams.  The other parts needed are 4mm dowel and 0.7mm brass rod. Hmmmmm decisions decisions…

 
 
While I procrastinated about the pumps I decided to move to the bow, since the rear deck is hung up on the pumps, the mid deck is hung up on the ships boats and cannon, I am running out of areas to work on LOL.
 
First up is the fish davits.  Caldercraft supply 2 davit pads and 2 shackles but only 1 fish davit.  Not sure if the real ship had only one davit that they humphed from side to side?  Any way the davit pads are 1.5mm walnut ply which after cutting free from the sheet I sanded a slight round on the top edge as per the AOTS and stuck down with CA.
 
The davit shackles are photo etch brass.  The plans don’t mention how they are secured to the deck but the AOTS shows them attached to an eyebolt so used the supplied copper ones.  The shackle needed the hole enlarged slightly with a drill to accept the eyebolt and after opening the eyebolt slightly to accept the shackle it was squeezed closed again and the parts chemically blackened.

 
 
The fish davit pads and shackles in place.  I haven’t done the davit yet as it has an open sheave so need to come up a sheave to fill the slot.

 
 
The bumpkins were up next.  Away back when I was doing the bulwarks and before the top rail was down, I marked the position of the bumpkins and cut slots into the bulwarks ready for this day.  There was a fair bit of discussion in MSW about the position of the bumpkins and how they should be placed over the rail, or even if the Endeavour had bumpkins, but this is how the kit shows them so happy to go along with this set-up.
 
Once the 2 halves of the walnut ply bumpkins were glued together and a final sand to clean them up they slid through the previous made slot into the solid walnut brackets which were CA glued to the deck.

 
 
The cat-heads next.  I was swithering whether to cut full slots and make up and insert proper sheaves but again a lack of suitable material at hand decided for me so made false sheaves by drilling 1mm holes right through the cat-head and after scribing lines joining the holes the material was picked out with the craft knife.

 
 
A couple of photos of todays work.  I notice most people paint the cat heads black but decided to varnish first so that the securing bolts and ringbolts on the side  (this is not mentioned in the plans but is in the AOTS) stand out more.  I still have the thumb cleats on the sides to do (again not in the plans but is in the AOTS) as I was almost finished them when “one little trim needed to finish" caused one to break apart.
 
I may go back and paint them black but will see.


 
Cheers
Slog

Hi guys,
 
Thanks for the nice comments, they are much appreciated.  In my household no one understands, takes an interest or appreciates the effort, blood, sweet and tears that we go through in building these models so comments like the above are very encouraging.
 
Mick, I guess with these kinds of kits we are always at the mercy of what the manufacturer supply us with.  I weigh up using and doing what and how the kit says and what others on here have done or embellishing kit parts based on others and the AOTS.   Example being Steve (shipaholic) has put in the correct bend to his bowsprit but I think that is beyond me and will just do it straight like the plans say.
 
At the end of the day we do this for pleasure and as long as we learn and try to improve for the next model its all good.  I sometimes wish I could start this one over again as my ‘foundation’ (hull) isn’t the best and causing/will cause problems and compromises down the track.  Example being a clash between chain links and airing port placement as discovered earlier today. LOL
 
Not much progress done today as time isn’t permitting. I started securing the chain links and preventers to the hull just to show how I am doing it.  These are going to take a while and will try and do a couple at a time as time allows.
 
I previously bought some railway track pins to use as ‘bolts’ earlier in the build and the smaller thinner ones fit nicely into the holes in the preventer strap.  Not sure if you can see from the photo but I tried to show a preventer strap side on to show how there is a recess (rebate?) on one end.  This fits over the top of a similar recess on the chain link to form a halving type of joint.  This is a nice touch by Caldercraft as it is exactly how the AOTS shows. I just need to remember to ensure I fitted the chain links the right way round in the channels to ensure the 2 halves fit together.

 
 
Here is how I attached them to the hull.  Firstly strung a length of thread through the middle hole in the deadeye and pulled it up to the correct (hopefully) height on the dowel placed in the mast hole.  As you can see the deadeye pulled up off the channel but this is okay as it gets pulled back down.
 
Secondly I bent the bottom of the link with the recess/hole at an angle where it fits against the hull then using a needle in the pin vise, I placed it in the hole and pulled the deadeye back down and once happy the angle was correct, following the thread, pushed the needle into the hull to mark the pin location.  Using a drill and the pin vice made the hole for the pin. I pushed the pin into the assembly and then pressed fully home into the hull hopefully putting the final correct bend on o the bottom preventer.
 
To glue I pulled the pin back out a bit and using CA glue applied with a needle coated the pin shaft, the back edge of the preventer link where it touches the hull before pushing the pin fully home again.

 
 
The following photos just show progress to date.  The long preventer links on the larger deadeyes were done similarly but when I pushed the unglued assembly home I then angled the preventer link to the correct position to drill the bottom hole.  To glue I pulled both pins out slightly and applied CA glue again with the needle to surfaces that touch each other or the hull and then pushed both pins fully home again.
 


 
 
I had planned on fully rigging the cannon but as the smallest rings I have are the copper supplied ones (chemically blacked) there is no way these will all fit on the tiny carriage.  As mentioned by Steve on his log I might try seeing how small I can make my own but at the moment haven’t got any wire smaller than 0.5mm which looking at the photo below looks as thick as an arm!

 
 
Cheers
Slog

Hi guys,
 
Ron, judging by your log you won’t be far off starting your Endeavour as its coming along great guns.
 
Back in post#50 I started doing the deadeye strops and chain links as supplied on the photo etch sheet and it was going well until I tried fitting and securing the strops around the deadeyes. 
 
I don’t understand the method Caldercraft use with the little tabs sticking out and after struggling to shape and glue the strops it didn’t come close to looking acceptable and I questioned how secure the twisted and CA glued joint would be.
 
So scrapped that idea and decided it was time to try my hand at Silver (hard) soldering!!!
 
With Father’s Day coming up I decided to get my soldering equipment early   .  The torch and the butane gas refill I got from the local Bunnings store.  The Charcoal block and the ‘easy’ silver solder paste (65% - 690 degrees C) I got from a Jewellery supply store on Hay Street, Perth which is only a 10 minute walk from the work office. http://jewellerssupplies.com.au/ . The web site says it will be selling on-line at some stage but they have AJS shops in Australian state capitals.

 
 
Using the supplied photo etch components I worked out the required lengths for the large and small deadeye strops and the large and small chain links.  Once I knew the lengths I worked out the required circumferences for each size and component.  The idea is to make a serious of rings for jointing and then bending to shape.  After annealing the wire I wrapped it round the appropriate diameter mandrel.

 
 
Here are the 4 different diameters for large and small strops and chain links.  Once I knew the diameter required I measured everything round I could find and ended up with a couple of hollow punches, a drill bit and a screw driver shaft.

 
 
Here are all the cut rings.  I used a Stanley knife to cut the coils in to rings.  I used 0.5mm brass rod for the small strops and both chain links.  The large strops I used 0.7mm rod.  Using the plans I scribbled notes on business cards so I can build up the correct amount of assemblies using the 4 ring sizes and 2 chain plate size combinations.

 
 
Here are the 8 assemblies needed for the mizzen mast channels.  The rings have been assembled and a small amount of paste applied to the 2 joints of each assembly and placed on the charcoal block ready for soldering.  The solder paste comes in a syringe with a 0.5mm nozzle but I squeezed a small amount out on to card and used a needle held in the pin vise to apply a smidgen round each joint.

 
 
After practicing using the torch to anneal the wire and light cigarettes it was time to see how my first silver soldering is going to turn out.  I turned the flame down to the lowest setting and applied it to each assembly in turn.  It only took 1 to 2 seconds for the brass to heat up and the paste to turn silver and flow out.  That’s all it took
 
Here is my very first attempt at silver soldering .  Photo shows them straight from the flame I haven’t cleaned them up at all.  I was surprised and expected to do a lot of filing

 
 
Okay, only another 32 to do.  I will clean them up and roughly bend to shape, the strops round the deadeye and the chain links into lozenges.  I will try blackening them next and then once that’s done place the deadeye in and squeeze to final shape.

 
 
If you have been thinking about silver soldering, I say go for it as I found it very rewarding, although the work in the photos above took a couple of hours for about 10 seconds of soldering 
 
Cheers
Slog