amateur
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Everything posted by amateur
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I guess he means that the ringbolts you have made so far have an eye with an inner diameter that is larger than the thickness of the ring that will go into it. I.e. you need a far smaller drill size for your ringbolts. But: using a far smaller drill will result in a ringbolt of which the twisted end is actual thicker (or nearly as thick) as the outer diameter of the ringbolt, thus looking a bit clumsy and out of scale. As far as I read his comment: his suggestion is to make ringbolts like the originals: single wire, and an eye bent into the end. btw: I don't comment or react to your posts, but I am a regular reader of your story. Interesting stuff to read, and a breathtaking model! Jan
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And back to the original question: Mondfelds book is quite old. Dating abck to the sixties. Back than it was one of the few reasonable priced sources available to modelers. What I do not like about Mondfeld is that he does not give any sources for what he presents: it is not easy to use his book as an 'entry' to the more detailed literature. Jan
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No, just the plain simple A4 80 gramms printing paper. Jan
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For some European countries, modelkits are grouped under 'toys', and European regulations stipulate that with toys you should give that warning, as soon as parts under a certain size are included. Has nothing to do with the question whether or not the toy is 'suited' for that age-category. From that point of view the text could also have been: beware, small parts included. (Yup, I agree, still a silly text on a modelkit ) Jan
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Glue a sheet of printing paper behind these windows, using pva. Even with the paper behind it it was peoblematic. What worked for me was drilling the corners of the windows with a rather small sized drill (.8 or 1 millimiter), and using a sharp x-acto knife, starting from the drill-hole (and a steel ruler to get the top and bottom about level ). Not trying to get through in one go, but several cuts. Using a small file to finish the sills. (Which was a bit tricky with all those cross-grain small parts. What was equally problematic was finishing the outside, to have it look like steel: literally tons of putty, and quite a number of paintcoats. In the end it was 'acceptable'..... (Over thirty years ago, bringing back memories. I liked the kit, and the result was a rather goodlooking tug, since than covered in some dust and grime....:) ) Jan
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And lots of money? Last one I saw was quite heavily (over?)priced. (As most second hand books tend to be the last few years. ) Jan
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Anyone out there working on a card model?
amateur replied to gagliano1770's topic in Card and Paper Models
with respect to downloads: quite a few sites around that are taking copyrights not too seriously. Downloadsections of the cardfora are ligit, as are some dedicated fora by designers. fun are the birds by Johan Scherft: https://jscherft.wixsite.com/website-johan-3/templates-store canon has quite a few models (nope, didn't do any of them) : https://creativepark.canon/en/categories/CAT-ST01-0071/top.html rather interesting (but not beginner models) are the ones by David Hathaway: https://www.papershipwright.co.uk/ looking interesting are these american civil war ships by Marcus Mork: http://modelsnmoore.com/mmork.php Jan -
Anyone out there working on a card model?
amateur replied to gagliano1770's topic in Card and Paper Models
One othes aspect of card I like: it is easier to cross boundaries to other 'types' of models: same tools, same (or very much so) skills, completely other result. Jan
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Anyone out there working on a card model?
amateur replied to gagliano1770's topic in Card and Paper Models
Not to push you to other internet fora, but especially in the eatern parts of europe paper/card modelling is very, very serious business. There are some fora over there (google tranlate required) that are worth visiting. the amount of skills required is certainly not less than working gwith wood. The skillset is definitely different from the one you need with wood (or plastic,or resin , or....) papermodelers.com is a nice one (and english) And card is fun Which ones did you order? Jan -
Your detailing and paintwork are fantastic as ever. Not doing the holes in the funnel like in the pic in post #91? Guess that holes are some kind of battle damage, can't imagine that it is rustholes..... Jan
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In Den Helder there is a shipwreck on display showing a very creative use of stealers, fillers, etc. Couple of years ago Ab Hoving posted a series of picsof that wreck on a Dutch forum. Unfortunatedly, I didn't save thosepics, and the forum went down..... Jan
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What sails did a ship like Vasa have set in severe weather?
amateur replied to ubjs's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Try a google pic seatch on sailing ship in a gale (add Willem van de Velde when too much shows up). most pics of ships ofthat era show main fore, main sail and sometimes a mizzen. the yard of the main and the fore are quite often lowered to abouthalf height of the mast. Looks impressive on a painting. Glad I wasn't there Jan
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Needle threaders can also be very usefull, especially for the from bottom to top at the pin rails. Threader down the hole, line through the threader, done. Especially at the pinrail where you have a rather large hole. Does not always work for blocks, where the hole should be the same size as the line itself, but sometimes it also works. lines not ending at a belaying pin: same story: don't tie off before having attached the whole lot. All lines and somewhere, and have to be fixed there. I found it helpfull to do first all the standing rigging, gave the lines some tension (not to much, just enough to keep them straight), fixed all the knots. The stays needed some additional tension, as in my case the braces are attached to the stays, and you don't want the braces to pull the stays in all directions. Next the running rigging was done, mast by mast, from top to bottom. As soon as the standing rigging looses its tension, you know that you are overtensioning the running rigging. (Generally the case: as soon as tensioning a line causes slack in another, just ask yourself: does this line need that much tension?) Overtensioning gives the risk of masts ans spars deforming, or knots coming loose. (Murphy there: always the one you can't reach, or redo without a lot of additional trouble) Jan
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Hi Marcus, Look at this site, and more specifically the book by Witsen: Witsen Scheepsbouw On page 121 (page 234 in the digital version) he shows the tables for the rigging, related to the mast-thickness. Basically, all measures are circumferences, and related to the thickness of the mast(s). These tables are the underlying tables for what Hoving has in his books. Rescaling the tables in his books, based on the mast-thickness of his Pinas and your model gives convincing looking results. Jan
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Rabbet
amateur replied to Don Case's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Not according to this drawing https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:HMS_Discovery_(ship,_1789)#/media/File%3ADISCOVERY_1789_RMG_J2021.jpg Jan -
Hi Roger, you write: the easiest way is to build frames square to the keel. that sounds rather straightforward, but looking at the Chapman-drawing above (large ship, build on a sloping floor) I sometimes wonder: how did they set up their frames: no laser equipment, and the most simple (piece oflead to a string) not working, due to the sloping ramp..... Jan
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The answer is two-fold: it is an historically interesting ship, and there exists a very good book (and drawings) on the ship. https://ancre.fr/en/monograph/55-monographie-du-fleuron-vaisseau-de-64-canons-1729.html
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That is toothick, but I think the stiffness ofyour thread is what is causing you trouble. Waxing will increase that stiffness, so was will not solve your trouble. I did my ratlines with simple gutermannthread. Problem with that material is that it cant be glued with PVA. An other thing I discovered: the clove hitch can be made in two (symetical) ways. Strictly adhering to oneversion does increase the homogeneity of the final result. Jan
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I never had that problem. The only problem I had, was that using a clove-hitch as firdt/last knot was a bit asking for trouble (it loosens when the loose end is cut clise to the knot. Jan
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It is the William Rex, a model build iin 1698, on the Admirality wharf of Flushing, build for the Admirality as a ‘showoff’ model for their headquarters. Build and rigged by the contemporeous professionals. Current location Rijksmuseum Amsterdam https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/nl/collectie/NG-MC-651 Jan
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Henry is right, I checked the literature. the sprittop sail is larger than the fore topgalant, and smaller than the topsail. The 'blinde' was around 1700 afairly wide sail, the length of the yard being three-quarter of that of the main fore. Still, it is a considerable amount of sail. Jan
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As Henry said: as long as spritsails were set, there were essentially no lines under the bowsprit, apart from the ones necessary to set the spritsail. Any other lines, as bobstays, were behind the spritsail, so no problem. I object to Henry when he sais that the spritsail and the topsail are always small: in the late 17th century they tended to be quitelarge, almost as large as the main and top on the fore mast. Jan
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In case of Wasa, you can go for the Landstrom blue/gold colour scheme. That will save you hours of painting, compared to the multi-coloured reconstruction of the Vasa-museet. Although, I still don't see why you want to cut corners on this model. If you don't like the kit, don't build it, if you like it, pay proper attention to it. Actually, the Billings kit can be used to get very convincing looking Vasa's. I never saw convincing Corel or Sergal versions. The best (although also not in all wood choices) is ofcourse the agostini-version. Jan
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How did you make those? Milled from a piece of brass, or build up from many small parts? Jan
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But make sure that you do not need to stain the wood after covering the part in glue... Jan
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