amateur
-
Posts
3,341 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by amateur
-
There are -as far as I read the logs here - differences between kitmanufacturers. Amati and Corel being 'intermediate quality' , more modern kits (Syren and Vanguard) being quite above average. My onw experience with Corel: it is not always the historical incorrectness, but a rather instructions that are quite dificult ro read. At first thoughtthat my Prins Willem was way off, I started researching, and doing it my own way. Lookingback, I see that had understood the instructions right away, the endresult would have been more o rless the same. Differences only tobe seen by people that did their own research Jan
-
Also: kitmakers are not providing very many spares, so it may be that using AOTS for your rigging may result in shortage of some block types and/or rope. Make sure you have acces to additional blocks of the same design: blocks by different firms look very much different, resulting in an awkward looking rigging of your ship..... Jan
-
Nope. I don't like oils for small models: too shiny, and too much on top on the sufprface. If anything, use whipe-on poly. That gives a nice surface look. Jan
-
Masts were made of pine, and oiled (at least: back in the 1600dreds, in the Netherlands.). That results in a orangy look. However, when times go by, he wood starts greying, and thecolour turns brown. and above all: lighting conditions do wonders :). Check pictures of eg Duyfken in Freemantle or Batavia in Lelystad. Hard to tell what colour they have I would go for a slightly toned down version of 2. Jan
-
I guess that was pretty common: quite a number of those where the paint on the doors, the body and the wings did only closely match: faded wings, bright red hood (or the otherway round). Today the ones remaining are painted better than when they left factory (btw quite a lot of those 2cv's (better known as 'lelijke eend' (ugly duck) around here, as somefirms rent them out for a day out (like they do with Trabants, VW Beetles, and some other old fashioned modes of transport). Jan
-
Looks very much like the real thing! In my memory the wheelbolts were never painted, but perhaps, that is faulty memory. Jan
-
Triggered by your question I have been looking, but to no avail.... only black-white pics avaliable Here: https://nimh-beeldbank.defensie.nl/foto-s/?fq[]=search_s_mediatype:"Foto's"&mode=gallery&view=horizontal&q=OJR&page=1&reverse=0 or (partly the same pics) here: https://www.maritiemdigitaal.nl/index.cfm?event=search.getsimplesearch&database=ChoiceMardig&needimages=true&searchterm=higginsboot&allfields=&title=&keyword=&creator=&collection=&shipname=&invno=&museum=&startrow=1 No colourpicsof course, and as these boats were bought of the shelf, even no drawings in the online archive. And as the all had a rather unheroic existence, no paintings or other info at all in the net. Jan
-
As far as I know Kirsch does not include the rigging part. Het is focussed on the shipbuilding part (especcially the design of the hull) Jn
-
I can't recall ever seeing a 'official' colourchart of the Dutch navy. would be very interested when you find one. I know that there was rather some variation, also the 'koloniale marine' used a different scheme from the 'nederlandse marine', and during the war most of the Dutch ships were attached to the English navy, and started using their colours. Even 'official paintings' show a wide variety (check all paintings of eg Java or De Ruyter) of colours..... Jan
-
Formula for the thickness of rope on any scale ship
amateur replied to flying_dutchman2's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Do you have the book (including Cd) of the Tasman-ships? There is a rather extensive rigging table on the CD. (At least, I guess that is were mine came from). Essentially the system in Dutch ships is comparable to that of the English: rope size (actually: weight) relates to the size of the mainmast (or the mainstay). You can 'rescale' the table in the book. Gives a reasonable outcome. (At least, I am still rather content with the result ) Jan -
Last information Fred gave dates back a full 12 months. He was negotiating with a publisher. Planning was that Wasa II should become a Wasa II-a, to be published last autumn, and a Wasa II-b, published later. Fred never replied to enquiries made in september last year.... Jan
-
Dutch yacht by henry x - RESTORATION
amateur replied to henry x's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
The model looks like it is build to a very old kit: Amat's 'Stadt von Bremen' at least, the side lleries, and the sternfittings do suggest so. Jan -
Bit late to join the party, but hope you'll still allow me in. stupid question perhaps, but what are these circular ridges on top of the hangar roof? Jan
-
Google is your best friiend: Fear Of Missing Out (mind you, this kit is probably sold out when I have time to build it. I think it is rather 'stupid strategy': look at the tremendous increase in the quality of kits. Why should you build a kit that is lagging decades behind in term of quality....? Kind of: Sorry, have to build 6 Aeropicolla kits, and 4 Billings before I can turn my attention to the latest Syren or Vanguard. Jan
-
Santa Maria German model
amateur replied to Lizjames's topic in NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD - News & Information
Or to sum it up: age : it was probably in its first decade when your dad bought it; value: none, that it: financially; historival accuracy: none; maker: unknown, there were several 'factories' around in Germany in the sixties. No names known to me, certainly not individual builders. On the plus-side: it is quite clean, relatively undamaged, and still a nice mantle-piece decoration. Jan -
The pinace isbased on a Dutch textbook: Nicolaes Witsen, Aeloude Scheepsbouw and bestier, printed in 1671. (Partly ranslated and annotaed by Ab Hoving in the book you mention in your post (Witsen and shipbuilding in the Dutch Golden age) The 'fun' of all these recontructions is that inthose years, no drawn plans plans were used, but contracts in which the main dimensions are stated. It was up to thebuilder to translate such a contract into a 3D object. Witsen tries to present a description of how all the various parts and measures relate to each other, thus being able to make a reconstruction. However, Witsen was a layman, and it is/was by no means clear that what he describes were general rules, or just what he picked up in communicatimg with one ormore shipbuilders in his own town (Amsterdam). There is a second Dutch ext (written by Van Ijk, in roughly the same period.). That text is written by a shipbuilder. Problem of that text is that he often refers to sentences like 'there are various ways ro do so, it is up to builders discretion'. Probably far betterdescribing daily prectice, but not very helpful for readers 400 years later, as they can't ask the shipbuilder what his preferred way is/was. That is why you see more Witsen-based reconstructions than Van Ijk based ones. Jan
-
Can you identify this feature? 19th century 1st Rates
amateur replied to Martocticvs's topic in Nautical/Naval History
When did the english navy start using mooring buoys instead of anchoring? Jan [edit: after posting, I read the whole thread, and I saw I had the same thought over a year ago. Not a very original thinker, but well, at least I'm consistent ) -
It is not on the NMM-drawings of the planking. At least, not on the outside planking. It is present on the inside. https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/83709.html (at least, Ithink I have the correct ship....) Jan
-
Hull modeling with Blender
amateur replied to SardonicMeow's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
As far as I can see, you two guys seem to misunderstand each other. you can imagine three planes through the hull the flat ones (paralellel to the water): the intersection of those planes gives the set of waterlines (marked F!G H and I in the drawing of that little tug) the standing ones, from the left to the rightside of the hull: theintersection gives the stationlines ("frames") ( marked 0.5, 1, ..., 10 in the tug-plan) the third option is the set standing parallel to the keel, from front to back, marked W, X,Y Z in the tug plan gives a set of lines known as buttock lines. once you have the distance between the planes and the correponding i es, you can recreate the other two sets from the third one. Also, if the drawing is reasonably precise, your hull will match al three sets of lines when constructed from any of these. In otherwords: once constructed feom the frames, there is no need to additionally match the hull to the waterlines or the buttock lines. Jan -
Billing Boats kit #450. Jan
-
New To Building Ships Help and advice needed
amateur replied to Richard O's topic in New member Introductions
Vanguard is top, but you could also consider one of the models Chris Watton designed before he started off as a one-man company. Those are models of larger ship (don't know whether that fits your cupboard): amati's victory models range. Something like pegasus or fly would also be a nice model Jan -
I was wondering the small black triangle.... I guess that you will figure out that not only each mast. But essentially each yard has the same rigging. lifts, braces, clew-lines, sheets (four of the major ropes per sail) ate a rather repetitive system. Once you figured that out for one yard, the others bevome infinitively easier Jan
-
Good heavens, I thought Corels rigging diagrams of mybuild were a kind of jigsaw-puzzle, but this one is equally, if not more, difficult. But I guess that it is what youthink it is: numbers in circles refer to the parts-list, squares to the belaying points. I would have expected also a number of squares referring to the pin-racks after the masts, as some of the ropes are usually taken along the mast to a belaying point near the mast (especialy the tackles that hold the spars and yards) Jan
-
Hi Dave, as you say: belaying pins are for the running gear, but part of the standing rigging is also set up with tackles, of which therunning end is going somewhere. Sometimes to the rope it tensions (likethe lanyards that are fixedto the shroulds), sometimes to a clamp orknight next to the tackle. Bear in mind that some kits are rather short on belaying points (rope and belaying pins being usually massively oversized), resulting in the nedd for creative solutions. Also not all kits are historically correct with respect to rigging, also resulting in creative solutions on behalf of the kitmakers. If you want specific feedback: give us the drawing to chew on Jan
Our Emblem ®
