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amateur

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  1. I was referring to the stern: chearfull has a rather bluff bow, jolie a rather sharp one. I agree with you that the underside is rather straightforward, the interesting part is the stern, and the transition from keel to stern Jan
  2. Does Artesania give a cross-section of the planked hull somewhere, so that we can see what their i tention was? Actually, I keepthinking that they use the same method the older Billing kits used: just plank it all over, and glue the keel to the outside of the planking, without too much (none whatsover) bothering of rabbets. The 'chucklike' rabbet as shown by Gregory will takes a bit of trial and error in this case, as in his example the planking sits at almost 90 degrees at the stern, in the case of this ship, the planking has an angle of 40 ? degrees. In that case, your rabbelstrip needs to be thicker than the planking, and getting a nice transition between planking and keel can be a bitmore tricky. With due respect to everyone: AL-kits arenot made to represent actual building practice, nor for people who want to show their technical skills. They are made to have some building fun, that ends in a rather goodlooking model. Only problem: their instructions are not always clear to their targeted customer group... Jan
  3. As Henry writes, the letters and numbers are all there. the problem is: the original was way larger, Andersson made a copy of the original which was included into his book inreduced size, and the current edition is a photographic reset (and again made smaller) of the first edition of Anderssons book. Inother words: in terms of resolution and readability, quite a step back On the bright side: once you have read the book, you should be able to point out all parts in the figures: the book does not rely on those illustrations. Jan
  4. I guess that you making things overcomplicated: when the bulkheads go all the way to the keel, you can also starting the planking at the centerline, so that the planks of both sides touch each other. After planking, sand it flat so that you can put the keel on it. (Essentially the situation shown i fig 2c, but without the centerpiece visible from the outside. As far as I understood the other buildlog, youhave to sand both stern and deadwood in order to have the planks running smoothly, and and make sure that at the aft end the total thicknes of planks and centerboard do not exceed the width of the keel. Final result will be almost the same as shown inthe post of Gregory above, but it is easier to get it clean: the method he shows need the keel put on before planking, AL let you put it tothe hull after planking. Preventing glue spilling to unwanted places Jan
  5. That is true, but there isno reasonto keep customers waiting for something that you will never deliver. Keeping your website up-to-date should be part of your business, like swiping the shop floor and arranging your products on the shelves was in the days of yore. Jan
  6. There are -as far as I read the logs here - differences between kitmanufacturers. Amati and Corel being 'intermediate quality' , more modern kits (Syren and Vanguard) being quite above average. My onw experience with Corel: it is not always the historical incorrectness, but a rather instructions that are quite dificult ro read. At first thoughtthat my Prins Willem was way off, I started researching, and doing it my own way. Lookingback, I see that had understood the instructions right away, the endresult would have been more o rless the same. Differences only tobe seen by people that did their own research Jan
  7. Also: kitmakers are not providing very many spares, so it may be that using AOTS for your rigging may result in shortage of some block types and/or rope. Make sure you have acces to additional blocks of the same design: blocks by different firms look very much different, resulting in an awkward looking rigging of your ship..... Jan
  8. Nope. I don't like oils for small models: too shiny, and too much on top on the sufprface. If anything, use whipe-on poly. That gives a nice surface look. Jan
  9. Masts were made of pine, and oiled (at least: back in the 1600dreds, in the Netherlands.). That results in a orangy look. However, when times go by, he wood starts greying, and thecolour turns brown. and above all: lighting conditions do wonders :). Check pictures of eg Duyfken in Freemantle or Batavia in Lelystad. Hard to tell what colour they have I would go for a slightly toned down version of 2. Jan
  10. I guess that was pretty common: quite a number of those where the paint on the doors, the body and the wings did only closely match: faded wings, bright red hood (or the otherway round). Today the ones remaining are painted better than when they left factory (btw quite a lot of those 2cv's (better known as 'lelijke eend' (ugly duck) around here, as somefirms rent them out for a day out (like they do with Trabants, VW Beetles, and some other old fashioned modes of transport). Jan
  11. Looks very much like the real thing! In my memory the wheelbolts were never painted, but perhaps, that is faulty memory. Jan
  12. Triggered by your question I have been looking, but to no avail.... only black-white pics avaliable Here: https://nimh-beeldbank.defensie.nl/foto-s/?fq[]=search_s_mediatype:"Foto's"&mode=gallery&view=horizontal&q=OJR&page=1&reverse=0 or (partly the same pics) here: https://www.maritiemdigitaal.nl/index.cfm?event=search.getsimplesearch&database=ChoiceMardig&needimages=true&searchterm=higginsboot&allfields=&title=&keyword=&creator=&collection=&shipname=&invno=&museum=&startrow=1 No colourpicsof course, and as these boats were bought of the shelf, even no drawings in the online archive. And as the all had a rather unheroic existence, no paintings or other info at all in the net. Jan
  13. As far as I know Kirsch does not include the rigging part. Het is focussed on the shipbuilding part (especcially the design of the hull) Jn
  14. I can't recall ever seeing a 'official' colourchart of the Dutch navy. would be very interested when you find one. I know that there was rather some variation, also the 'koloniale marine' used a different scheme from the 'nederlandse marine', and during the war most of the Dutch ships were attached to the English navy, and started using their colours. Even 'official paintings' show a wide variety (check all paintings of eg Java or De Ruyter) of colours..... Jan
  15. Do you have the book (including Cd) of the Tasman-ships? There is a rather extensive rigging table on the CD. (At least, I guess that is were mine came from). Essentially the system in Dutch ships is comparable to that of the English: rope size (actually: weight) relates to the size of the mainmast (or the mainstay). You can 'rescale' the table in the book. Gives a reasonable outcome. (At least, I am still rather content with the result ) Jan
  16. Last information Fred gave dates back a full 12 months. He was negotiating with a publisher. Planning was that Wasa II should become a Wasa II-a, to be published last autumn, and a Wasa II-b, published later. Fred never replied to enquiries made in september last year.... Jan
  17. The model looks like it is build to a very old kit: Amat's 'Stadt von Bremen' at least, the side lleries, and the sternfittings do suggest so. Jan
  18. Bit late to join the party, but hope you'll still allow me in. stupid question perhaps, but what are these circular ridges on top of the hangar roof? Jan
  19. Google is your best friiend: Fear Of Missing Out (mind you, this kit is probably sold out when I have time to build it. I think it is rather 'stupid strategy': look at the tremendous increase in the quality of kits. Why should you build a kit that is lagging decades behind in term of quality....? Kind of: Sorry, have to build 6 Aeropicolla kits, and 4 Billings before I can turn my attention to the latest Syren or Vanguard. Jan
  20. Or to sum it up: age : it was probably in its first decade when your dad bought it; value: none, that it: financially; historival accuracy: none; maker: unknown, there were several 'factories' around in Germany in the sixties. No names known to me, certainly not individual builders. On the plus-side: it is quite clean, relatively undamaged, and still a nice mantle-piece decoration. Jan
  21. The pinace isbased on a Dutch textbook: Nicolaes Witsen, Aeloude Scheepsbouw and bestier, printed in 1671. (Partly ranslated and annotaed by Ab Hoving in the book you mention in your post (Witsen and shipbuilding in the Dutch Golden age) The 'fun' of all these recontructions is that inthose years, no drawn plans plans were used, but contracts in which the main dimensions are stated. It was up to thebuilder to translate such a contract into a 3D object. Witsen tries to present a description of how all the various parts and measures relate to each other, thus being able to make a reconstruction. However, Witsen was a layman, and it is/was by no means clear that what he describes were general rules, or just what he picked up in communicatimg with one ormore shipbuilders in his own town (Amsterdam). There is a second Dutch ext (written by Van Ijk, in roughly the same period.). That text is written by a shipbuilder. Problem of that text is that he often refers to sentences like 'there are various ways ro do so, it is up to builders discretion'. Probably far betterdescribing daily prectice, but not very helpful for readers 400 years later, as they can't ask the shipbuilder what his preferred way is/was. That is why you see more Witsen-based reconstructions than Van Ijk based ones. Jan
  22. When did the english navy start using mooring buoys instead of anchoring? Jan [edit: after posting, I read the whole thread, and I saw I had the same thought over a year ago. Not a very original thinker, but well, at least I'm consistent )
  23. It is not on the NMM-drawings of the planking. At least, not on the outside planking. It is present on the inside. https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/83709.html (at least, Ithink I have the correct ship....) Jan
  24. As far as I can see, you two guys seem to misunderstand each other. you can imagine three planes through the hull the flat ones (paralellel to the water): the intersection of those planes gives the set of waterlines (marked F!G H and I in the drawing of that little tug) the standing ones, from the left to the rightside of the hull: theintersection gives the stationlines ("frames") ( marked 0.5, 1, ..., 10 in the tug-plan) the third option is the set standing parallel to the keel, from front to back, marked W, X,Y Z in the tug plan gives a set of lines known as buttock lines. once you have the distance between the planes and the correponding i es, you can recreate the other two sets from the third one. Also, if the drawing is reasonably precise, your hull will match al three sets of lines when constructed from any of these. In otherwords: once constructed feom the frames, there is no need to additionally match the hull to the waterlines or the buttock lines. Jan
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