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Everything posted by kurtvd19
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Welcome to MSW Steve. Gerald Wingrove, a true master in metal is building a metal hull and I am sure his build will be of interest to you. His work is exceptional and highly detailed. A bit different than I think you are considering, but your time will not be wasted in checking his work out. Again, welcome to MSW. Kurt
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Thinning water based paint
kurtvd19 replied to grsjax's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Ron is right about alcohol. One issue with Acrylics is drying too fast - alcohol only intensifies the effect. Badger recommends using only distilled water for thinning their Acrylic paints which I use exclusively. I have never had to thin the Badger paints unless I left a jar open as they are of the proper consistency for airbrushing as supplied. Kurt -
Mark: The photo shows on the right a 0.045" dia. crimp on 1 x 7 SS wire 0.012" dia. For 1/12 this would be a smaller line, but it's next to impossible to see that it is a crimp and for larger sizes be sure to use the special crimp pliers and you can get the crimp to be smooth except for the seam where the crimp is touching itself and it then appears as a line that is very hard to see any curvature of the piece. The bit to the left was an illustration to show what not to do. Kurt
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Is Warner Woods West still in business ??
kurtvd19 replied to Teakfreak's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Yes, Lloyd retired and dropped his ad in the NRG's Journal last year (Lloyd was a long time NRG Director). Kurt -
Roger: Yes, it's the Russell Military Museum accessed from Russel Rd. I always called it the military junkyard until I found out it was a "museum" of sorts. There are some real gems in the collections, some of which are enclosed, while others are just out in the weather. The one PBR is operational and is occasionally operated on the IL Chain of Lakes - thus the IL registration number on the bow shown in the first photo. A neat place to visit - in good weather as it gets muddy if it has rained recently - only $10 admission. Kurt
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The list can be found here - just click on it and you can see the official up-to-date listing of the prohibited manufacturers. Kurt
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Blacken-It is no longer produced. It was a small mom and pop place and they passed away in a traffic accident and the company went out of business. There are other blackening agents - just be sure to use one that is made for your metal -Brass blackening agents will not work on white metal and vice versa. As to using acrylic paints on metal - there is no reason not to. Just be sure to clean them well. A primer can help but also a bath in an etching agent gives a "tooth" to the metal that helps with paint adhesion. Again, be sure to clean off the etching agent. There are several threads on blackening metals that you can do a search for. Kurt
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Larry: Welcome to the NRG's Model Ship World. Go to the Member's Build Logs section and click on the kit builds topic and there are guidelines on the first page to tell you everything you need to know. Happy modeling, Kurt
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Preac Thickness Sander
kurtvd19 replied to zinfigman's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Roger is 100% correct. I once had the part number - direct from Charlie File's son - when I had to replace a bearing. Sold the sander and dumped the note but it was a standard bearing. Kurt -
Every boat I have been on (fresh water guy - they are all boats) the compensator balls were red and green. On one tug they were labeled with white paint, the appropriate Port or Starboard. I think it was a joke that remained for years. I built a model of that tug for the owner and was very tempted to label the balls on the model's binnacle like the prototype's. Kurt
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Bruce: Here are two photos of the model by Sam Parent of MN from the 2015 contest at the WI Maritime Museum. This model won best of show in addition to a gold medal and best novice model. It was Sam's first ship model. There are a lot of great details added to Sam's model. He made the bricks for the stove of the same material I used in the magazine series but used the basswood laser cut form that the wood "bricks"were cut out of - filled with the clay, baked and pushed out of the form. A lot easier than the method I used and much more uniform. Glad the articles are helping. Kurt
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What brand of #11 blades do you use
kurtvd19 replied to bigcreekdad's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Anybody contemplating using scalpel blades should consider getting a beefier handle than the stamped metal handles sold for surgery as there is little force used in surgical procedures whereas we tend to exert a bit more force and using the surgical handles gets old real quick. Borrowed one of those from my wife quickly gave it back and bought the ones shown below. I use the metal one for fine work and the red one for less critical stuff. When the metal handle needs a new blade the blade in the red handle is thrown away and it gets the used blade from the metal handle. The swapped blade is still plenty sharp. Stropping is routine for blades in my shop. I still have a bunch of Xacto blades/handles but use the scalpel blades most. Each of the handles below cost less than $7.00 each with the red plastic one costing more than the metal one! Both were obtained from ebay (with free shipping - the only way I buy on ebay). Kurt -
Welcome to MSW Kurt
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What brand of #11 blades do you use
kurtvd19 replied to bigcreekdad's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I use Swann-Morton #25a blades. They are a lot cheaper if you get the non-sterilized blades. Have found them on both Amazon and ebay You might want to get a plastic handle like this (just an example) https://www.amazon.com/OdontoMed2011®-SCALPEL-PLASTIC-VETERINARY-INSTRUMENTS/dp/B01EC46Q52/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1511647956&sr=8-9&keywords=scalpel+handle+4 Kurt -
What brand of #11 blades do you use
kurtvd19 replied to bigcreekdad's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Surgical blades are the way to go. Xacto or Excel both will loosen if you apply pressure that loosens the tightening nut. The surgical blades lock in place and prevent this. Kurt -
Ship-it: Go to the last post on the last page of the link Chris provided about the banned kits issue - to see if your kit mfg. is listed. You can skip all of the prior posts - as the last post is the final word on the issue. Kurt
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The stack should not face into the wind - otherwise the stack doesn't work and it gets real smokey below decks real quick besides playing havoc with the stove fire. Kurt
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Thanks for the reminder Eric. Just posted it there. Thanks, Kurt
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Steamboats and other rivercraft - general discussion
kurtvd19 replied to Cathead's topic in Nautical/Naval History
I just got a new listing of towboat and riverboat plans available from John Fryant of Paddlewheels & Props. He now has the Alan Bates plans available - I was worried that these plans were lost to us when Alan died. I thought I would share them with the other riverboat fans. Kurt PADDLE WHEEL - PROPS - FRYANTS- PRICE LIST 11-17.pdf- 281 replies
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Eric: I just got a new listing of towboat and riverboat plans available from John Fryant of Paddlewheels & Props. He now has the Alan Bates plans available - I was worried that these plans were lost to us when Alan died. I thought I would share them with you and the other riverboat fans following your build log. Kurt PADDLE WHEEL - PROPS - FRYANTS- PRICE LIST 11-17.pdf
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