dafi

PS: @Kevin: Thank you for the link! XXXDAn

Thank you Kevin and Popeye! Finally some time for tinkering ... First shortened the first version of the mizzen topsail sheet bitts to 90 cm height ... ... and adapted to the fall of the mast. Then worked the fore brace bitts. Then carved new main top bowline and fore topsail sheet bitts and added the needed number of sheaves.   As I (still) follow McKay for the rigging, I opted for the fore topsail sheet bitts with a third sheave bolted to the side for the foretop sheets, fore sail clue lines and bowlines. As the maintop bowline bitts held only the fore yard sheer falls and the top sail bowlines, I omitted the third sheave - one sometimes is lazy , you know ;-) Here to compare with the kits parts. Surprisingly the basic measures are quite near the ones I choose - the kit is surely better that its reputation :-) Theonly thing are the details, still difficult to cast at the times the kit was developed .   Still the mizzen topsail sheet bitts with the partners to bolt it onto the deck beams.  XXXDAn

That is surprising for me too :-) And with the measures found above, the Heller bitts are quite in that range - this kit surprises me always as it is much better than its reputation. XXXDAn

Plausibility check for the main bitts: if the diameter is about 35 cm, the sheave is about the same height. Adding approx. 10 cm above and below makes 55 cm, fits druxey´s dimensions (or in better english: ... the dimensions given by druxey :-) I found the remark, that the lower edge of the cross bit ia about at the half height, also fits the 110 cm druxey gives. The mizzen differs by the cross piece being above the middle, that can be a side effect of the partners being needed, thus pushing the sheaves upwards. Also makes sense. Coming back to Schrade, he gives a total height of 117 cm for the main and 90 for the mizzen, so near enough for my personal use. I also appears that the fore bitts are a tiny bit thinner but heigher compared to the main bitts. But still I wonder about the dimensions of Steel given by Goodwin. If ever anybody traces the source and can explain WHAT they exactly mean, it would be greatly appreciated! XXXDAn

Thank you druxey. This means in metric system: Usually the height of the crosspiece above the deck (plank) was in the order of 19" to 20" = 51 cm (mizen) 21" = 54 cm (main) to the underside. The height of the bitt pins above deck: 2' 11" = 89 cm (mizen), 3' 7" =110 cm (main). Still all the given dimensions vary quite a bit ... XXXDAn

Personal opinion: if one manages to do the overhand knot at a certain scale then the clove hitch is also possible without further complications. Just a small litte training and it works as well as the other one. XXXDAn

... just wanted to work a bit on the bitts ... At one point I just realised, that the cross pieces were underneath the knees of my sailors - somewhat short it appears. So do your own ones dear dafi and take the chance to add the needed number of sheaves by doing so. So I took McKays measures but the result appeared a bit high. So I did the mistake to start investigating ... New modern sources like Schrade give 1,2 meters height for the total height above the deck whereas McKay indivcats 1,4 meters. Then looked at Goodwins Construction und Fitting summing up Steels measurements - and I was totally lost ... More to be found here Thinking things through: Some bits about the bitts So here is the situation, before I send my dear Proxon Micromiller into a prematurely holliday. Mizzen and main bitts were done, the crosspieces for the fores and the pre-cuts for the bitts themselves. And already somethings in red to be adapted: Slimming down the crosspieces a bit, easy-bisy :-) The bitts of mizzen and main have to be shortened a bit. Also to be done by some clean cuts on the circular saw. Just how much, THAT is the question?!? And then I am sure in strongly believing that the fore bitts will be an easy game too :-) XXXDAn

It started as usual quite innocent: I was putting one of my little man beside the jeer and topsail bitts and realised, the lower edge of the cross piece was visibly underneath the knee. So started making new ones to better dimensions using McKay, also incorporating the right number of sheaves into it, but when ready, they looked a tad too high. So I deliberately took the hazard and started researching deeper. Schrade was one of the only ones giving clear dimensions. From McKay I measured a height of 1,4 meters, whereas Schrade mentioned 1,2 meters. So I looked further and here trouble started. Next was Goodwin Construction and Fitting. His dimensions for the fore bits still were understandable on first sight, but the main Bitts were possibly quite messed up. Fore bitts: Squared diameter 1`1,5" = 34 cm Kopf über Deck (Höhe) 4´6" = 137 cm Cross piece height 8" = 20 cm depth 9,5" = 24 cm sore for the cross piece (?) 1 5/8" 0 = 4 cm Even though some dimensions are missing it looked plausible at this point and in the dimensions Schrade and McKay give. And now the main bitts: A = diameter1 `2" = 35,5 cm B = The height that the pin bitt is set above the deck (total height?) 2`9" = 84 cm ?!?!? C = scoring for the cross piece 1,75" = 4,5 cm E = Cheeks (for side blocks?) 4" = 10 cm F = sheaves 1` = 30 cm G = breadth of the cross piece 10,5" = 27 cm And now Goodwin apparently messed up, missing the letter "H". Red is the original assignment as per his book, green is a corrected version, that would make sense. J = Depth of cross piece 1`10" = 33 cm K = Height of cross piece above the floor (lower edge?) 2" = 5 cm L = scoring for the cross piece 2`2" = 66 cm The corrected version reads like that: [gruen]J = breadth of the cross piece 7,5" = 19 cm K = Height of cross piece above the floor (lower edge?) 1`10" = 33 cm L = sore for the cross piece 2" = 5 cm[/gruen] Looked in steel but could not find the fitting informations to confirm. Does anybody know the location? And know the even bigger question: What do the measures mean? I was told, for these heights ther is not tha upper surface of the deck beam to be considered but the lower one :-0 And know that leaves me completely confused ... ... help ... ... au secour ... ... ... I only wanna know how heigh the bits are in tota above the deck and at what height is the cross piece ... ... Hilfe ... XXXDAn XXXDAn

And what´s a thimble without a rope ?!? Took off the inner edges to give the typical rounding on the inside ... ... hooked them up to put them into the blackening soup and to get them out without having to search ... ... ok, first trial was not the wanted result as smartened ropes can´t be sliced ... ... so to be smart no smartening but a splice, inserted the thimble and closed the loop ... ... smartened the ends off and lashed it down ... ... and went happy about the result :-) XXXDAn

Thank you Maurice :-) As on another place, there is the "war of the thimbles" raging, here is my input for special small ones. A brass tube of 1mm outside and 0,5 mm inside is secured with a core of high-grade steel wire ... ... and placed upon a hard acrylic surface and a cutter blade is use to roll in a groove ... ... then the blade is placed further in and with pressing rolling the thimble is cut off. Then the core is used as handle to sand off the edges ... ... and ready is the thimble of 1 mm outside, 0,5 mm inside and 0,5 mm thickness with 0,5 mm hight with groove. Production is quite easy and if necessary also possible with reduced hight - then without the groove :-) Cheers, Daniel

Dear Alexandru, most wonderful work as usual, thank you for sharing!!! Only the blocks underneath the tops surprise me, the look like the ones one can buy and do not have the typical more roundish appearance. XXXDAn

"... would never thought how to make a locker like that." ... neither did I ;-) Thank you Popeye! XXXDAn

I still owe you one ... ... how the partners of the flag staff were build? No, something else ... ... a piece of sheet, left a rectangular acrylic, then some stripes of Evergreen to keep even distances ... ... and yes, that is the mysterious picture of before, and then opening the gaps with the side cutter ... ... and lengthened ... ... but why? As the first try to do the compartments of the flag lockers went completely wrong :-( That is why some much more crisp workout made the difference ... ... then the side parts ... ... the small yellow tape giving the angle ... ... and a nice before and after shot :-) So, that is where we are ... Cheers, DAniel

Thank you Mark and Frank! So the plastic asparagus is already history :-) Naturally with the proper pommel at its end with 2 pairs of integrated and working* sheaves and halyard. And as everything in life should be grounded on a solid base, I overworked the Heller parts**... ... and placed everything in situ. As alway standing on one leg is not good, I added the two flag lockers and covered them. And now I am trying to find out about the sizes of the signal flags. Left 12 x 14 feet as found in Atkin´s "Trafalgar companion" and approx 3 x 4 feet the size mostly found in NMM. More here: #4 XXXDAn *not **YES really you read right: Heller parts!

Congratulations and thank you for sharing your voyage with us! It was always a great pleasure, XXXDAn

So after I had no time to continue on the mystery part, here some addendums to the poop skylight. Even captains and admirals needed some privacy. That is why the skylight was fitted with sliding blinds in between the deck beams to give seclusion ... ... and for enlightenment. But then I remembered the partitions of the cabins. That meant for the sliders to pass over the bulkheads, so I got this sorted. And once on the run, the two small cabins beside the wheel were added too. And two more remarks: The flag pole - a very subtle hint to skip the plastic spars and to make wooden replacements. And I was asked to also show the Heller original parts - here they are :-) One more nice enlightenment I had too. Heller positions 4 eyebolts around the mizzen mast: one left, one right, one fore and one aft. i first had them and already moved the fore and aft half a planck thickness to the side to not sit on the seam. Then I realised the Vic in P. has 3 bolts in a row on each side. Doing the beams underneath the poop deck I realised why, the rings are sitting on the small carling beside the mast and can be fixed much better that way. XXXDAn

Have a talk with Tarjack, he is a specialist :-) http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1749-hmy-royal-caroline-1749-by-tarjack-made-from-bone-m-1-50/?hl=%2Bcaroline+%2Btarjack XXXDAn

And now?!? XXXDAn

Just the way there was too much for old little heard especially the last 47 Minutes, means everything past the usual 90+ mins. And very much the last 17 minutes ...

After the match yesterday was **** for my nerves, I had to calm down doing some of my favorite themes ;-) Plumbers work. The drain angle could be possibly optimized towards then windows or - as Livesay indicates - with mock windows the drainage could even go down straight, possibly hidden behind a curtain wall. Does anybody know contemporary details about that?. Also the front got some discharges to go around the window underneath. Here I chose to point it aft for waves not to get stuck in it and shower the roundhouses inside. XXXDAn

Petersson belays it on the rail just beside the belfry, so not too far off the place you give. XXXDAn PS: Not to forget - the waist was not as open or accessible as on most models / plans as all the boats and spare spars were cluttered there. This too should be respected when belaying!

As always: WHAT a treat! XXXDAn

Since a while I am observing the different versions of the metal hammock crane holders and their positions. Therefor I am looking for contemporary sources of this rarely shown detail. HMS Victory 1765 http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66473.html SLR0512 Scale: 1:60. A model of H.M.S Victory (1765) made entirely in wood that has been painted in realistic colours with metal fittings. [...] The poop deck fittings include a rectangular skylight, launching flag pole, [gruen]hammock stowage rails[/gruen], and provision for an ensign jack staff. [...] Date made Mid-18th century Warship(1745); Third rate; 70 guns Read more at http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66431.html#SRxOXkziYoHbXrqM.99 SLR0470 Scale: 1:48. A full hull model of a 70-gun, two-decker ship of the line. The model is decked and equipped. A plaque on the original base is inscribed ‘Lord Nelson’s model of H.M.S. ”Ruby” built in 1768. Lent by Capt C.A.R. Hoare’. [...] This model was formerly known as ‘Lord Nelson’s model of the Ruby’, but its proportions are quite different from those of the only possible ship of that time: the ‘Ruby’, built 1776 at Woolwich. The fleur-de-lys decoration suggests French origin, and it is possible that the British Royal Arms in the stern galley may be a later addition. The general appearance of the model, however, is not in the least degree French. [...] Date made circa 1745 Interesting is - also seen on the Vic - that the quarter deck cranes are hardly higher than the rails, making them seem useless. The inner stanchion looks to be integrated in the rail. Warship; Frigate; Amazon class; Fifth rate; 32 guns http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66276.html#bygQPW2IQecg1j0u.99 SLR0315 Scale 1:32. Built at this slightly larger and unusual scale, the model is a fine example of the Georgian style of modelling, with a fully planked hull and partially planked decks. [...] The model has been made to a high standard of workmanship and includes some fittings not always shown, such as the compass binnacle just forward of the wheel, shot racks between the guns, the hammock-netting stanchions and swivel guns on the ship's side. Date made circa 1780 The cranes are pointing outside the hull. Here another variation: Cranes outside and a board underneath 36 Gun Frigate http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66604.html SLR0643 Scale 1:48. A contemporary full hull model of a 36-gun fifth-rate frigate (circa 1801). [...] The model is mounted on launching cradles and the fittings on deck include stovepipe, hammock irons, a double wheel and capstan. [...] This model seems to illustrate something of a hybrid design for a frigate, with dimensions similar to ships of 1780–85. However, the appearance of the enclosed waist and solid bulwarks, introduced to give more protection for the gun crews, with square-cut ends are a characteristic of 1800 or later. Date made circa 1801 And merry goes round all the way the rails: HMS Duke of Kent (circa 1809); Warship; 170 gun SLR0660 Scale: 1:96. A full hull design model of the Duke of Kent, a proposed 170 gun four-decker ship of the line circa 1809 which was never built. [...] Date made circa 1809 Do you know any other contemporary sources? Thank you, Daniel

Thank you for the correction :-) XXXDan

Wonderfully done! Especially love that the takles are all belayed and not just lying around loose :-) XXXDAn PS: And thanks to Mr. Delacroix to be behind and to keep on correcting the imprecise data from M.´s "bible" regarding the "continental" carriage..