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dafi
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My vic alost once took an escape towards the left through the small gap between window and the banister as I was using still the original heller stand ... ... I immediately gave it a solid heavy slipway where it is well fixed to avoid further fugativ tendencies ... 800_victory-rope-walk_7689.jpg 800_victory_1_7606.jpg One lucky ranging shot from fate is truly enough! No need to challenge it twice. XXXDAn
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I do believe not, as we did not bother, as I always say, no matter what material you use, if the model has a soul, nobody bothers anymore about the material :-) Daniel PS: That is why I am thankful, that there is no separation of plastik and wood here in MSW as in some other places - it IS nonsense to me. -
...hihihihihihi... ... today someone of a german forum contacted me to "my wonderful wooden model" ... ...hihihihihi... ... wooden ... ... just to put the record straight and to jump back in time ... ... the starting phase, classical oob ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... plastique au goût du chef ... XXXDAn PS: That was in 2004, I just glued in the lower battery deck ...
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Add extra weight to model ?
dafi replied to NenadM's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I agree with B.E. It is technically not necessary to add some ballast. Some people do as it makes the model sit better in the stand as long as it is not permanentely fixed yet and afterwords in does not move around the table that much. Also some people add weight as it suggests a higher value to those handling it. The BIG plastic shavers used to have a bit of lead inside for that reason, also loudspeakers were sometimes given extra weight for this sole reason even though being light weight construction ... Ship wont be moved that often, but if so, it is heavy- it must be solid - it must be gooooooood :-) XXXDan -
The glueing onto the test hull now was rather boring to me apart from the thrill if things will work out, but the developing and fiddling out the drawings and production was a too tempting task :-) The even more exciting task is bringing life to them on the real build, looking forward to it. XXXDAn
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... neither do I ... Thanks Lawrence and Frank
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Looking good .-) Love the blue carpet it gives a nice and homy touch to the needy sailors ;-) XXXDAn
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Thanks Jan, you know I treasure your critical eye :-) But this is the difference that one step more in development can do. By now I have to say, that they became a great alternative for the builds to follow even to my self made ones and are a gigantic time saver and are in some respects even more crisp in appearance. Daniel
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I think he only is upset, the messmate fetching the food is late ... XXXDAn
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So dinner is served, the official start is done, the sets are available: #1 Or straight from the source: home http://www.dafinismus.de/ the parts: http://www.dafinismus.de/plates_en.html to order: http://www.dafinismus.de/order.html Simply write an e-mail to webshop@dafinismus.de Enjoy it, Daniel
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Very interesting the information about the spacing. I already wondered by doing the "by the deep 17" why there are no drainage holes in the channels. I read the same thing about the fenders, those also should be spaced (source do not remember, thankful for hints) and also the sidesteps had holes which also helped to hold while climbing up DAniel
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Also the futtock shroud chains... ... with the hooks ... ... turned 90° towards their rings. So that´s the report from etching front, all parts tried and only one thing left to say: Dinner is served! XXXDAn
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Some helping "shrouds" to straighten the parts ... ... and glue the irons into the slot. The main channels got the missing iron support bracket - ok it is brass now - ... ... and the preventer chain plates are added on the bottom ... ... but aside this it is almost business as usual :-)
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So the last part of the etch orgy: the channel chains. Here the old mark 1 ... ... and as I believed that this was still too big here the refined mark 2. And here some more details :-) Either fixed on Heller´s deadeye-machine where the lanyards could be fixed before assembly ... ... or - as I personally prefere - the deadeyes being first build in and the lanyards being put later while rigging as on the original. Deadeye with iron put into the slot and the lower parts hooked in. Needels put into the Dremel and either ground by a file or the Double-Twin-Super-Drive-Technology to reduce the head in diameter and height ... ... left the original and the right the worked ones ... ... inserted half ... ... some cyano onto the needle and gentle pushed in.
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And by the way, what makes the Vic so interesting? Very clear - maaaaaaaaaany biiiiiiig guns, very maaaaaaaaaacho ;-) Therefor I ask for your forgiveness as I almost forgot the most biiiig, maaaaaaaaale and maaaaacho gun .... ´ ... biiiiig things ... ... really big ... ... the dafi ... more soon :-)
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Wonderful and enjoyable built! Thanks for showing the details :-) Daniel
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Nice and crisp build! Daniel
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Hy Popeye nice to see you working on a real ship ;-) Love it :-) Daniel
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HMS Victory by Yon - Caldercraft 1:72
dafi replied to Yon's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
Hello Yon, great work :-) Daniel -
Nice :-) Still producing some flags for the locker? XXXDAn
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So the before last part, and I keep the usual length, as always the showing how to was the important, not just showing the end results. So here comes the revised binnacle. Well chucked the grooves on the backside provide help in placing and bending :-) Using a hard and crisp tool to bend ... ... loosened after the first step, a doubled paper being put underneath for a tad of extra height, retracted the paper and by rolling with a wooden rod the corners are subdued into perfection. The most tricky is always the last bent. Here for I used Tesa double sided tape to fix the part on the table and inserted a 3 mm Plexi and bending the brass over it - I love when dafi´s well planned brainfarts work out well ;-) Then using fine pliers to adjust the corner´s angles ... ... and we are awarded with a nice and crisp box :-) The lid for the small funnel is formed using a center punch. The inner table should not be too much of a problem after all this :-) Cutting out the binnacle´s top, stacking the layer cake compasses, and adding the needed extra parts: evergreen rod 2 mm for the lantern (a toothpick will be ok too), 1 mm Evergreen rod for the funnel, a 0,2 mm sheet for the inner base (cardboard will work also), 2 Rings for the bracing onto the deck and transparent film for the windows ... ... and just fixed :-) Left the etch-binnacle Mark 1, in the middle the new one with now crisp drawers and right the also rivised rudder column, now with crisp lawrels :-) All the best, Daniel
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Sorry Harry I did not intend to bore you, it is in a way the months of research behind and the joy of developing and sharing the parts. It came out naturally as result of all those trials I did all along my way :-) It was a tad more then 12 hours and will provide some help to modelers who just want do do some modeling without to much research. Even though this is still the kit section, the most important in modelmaking is not just to glue things together, but even more important is to give a soul to a model - and this no etch part can help the modeler. Greetings, Daniel :-)
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Just to show, not everything turned out perfect in the first go. Here a trial with open flag lockers: Too much space on the plate, too complicated in assembly and most importend: too little sex-appeal as it looks horrid! So being eliminated with no hesitation for V2 and adding other more sexy goodies instead ... ... so, the bell can be rang :-) XXXDAn
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I do not think it was empty, as there was something meant to be for heraldic reasons. I my understanding is right, those three feathers are not just feathers, but a crown crowned with tree feathers. So they might have switched a plain crown by one with three feathers, which would go with the strict heraldic rules of those days. Daniel
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