Chuck

Math isnt my thing....I will leave it to one of the other guys to give you that percentage!!! Keep in mind none of the stuff will fit that is offered as a laser cut package and also the carvings. You will need to build it all at that scale. Chuck

Yes there would be but they are seldom shown on ship models. You could of course add one. But its a bit "kitchen sink" for my tastes.

Yes that was all straightened out, thanks. The tissue paper didnt work. I used plain paper and it worked well. The friezes you see are glued on permanently now. More to add soon.

Thank You!!! I added the columns to the QGalleries. The top and bottom of the columns were done using a scraped strip of boxwood. Basically you scrape the strip like you would make a molding. Then cut off tiny pieces that become the top and bottom of each column. You still must file the sape on each side to finish it off. This was a 3/32" x 3/64" boxwood strip. Then the fluted column was added between these two pieces to complete each column. These are laser cut from .025" thick boxwood. They have laser etched flutes. Note how just a small strip of blue remains on each side of the columns. I will start working on the other side so now so I complete the galleries at the same time. Then I will put the shingled roof on each qgallery.

I hope so. I actually have three resin sets of figures right now. Jack is almost ready with his so you can order them. The friezes will be available to download. But you guys still have a long way to go!!!! Theres a lot planking ahead you guys. Dont rush through that....this stuff will be ready when you are ready. 😃

To close up the Qgalleries, I started by adding the top. This is laser cut (1/16" thick) It is important to create the same angle as the bottom. This was marked with the paper template earlier. You can see my tick marks in pencil. Getting this angle correct is crucial just like the bottom of the Qgalleries. Otherwise your windows wont fit well. The aft edge needs to be beveled to sit flush against the transom. Next we need to put in the uprights between each window. These are two layers of 3/64" thick laser cut strips. One layer is slightly wider than the top layer. This forms a rabbet on both sides when glued together as shown below. You will need four of these on each side. Clean the laser char off each layer before you glue them together. You should also paint the top face of these blue before you start shaping them. Yes you will need to touch these up later but this helps. I am using cerulean blue acrylic paint. It is a pretty good match to the friezes. You can see these four pieces glued into position below. One note.....the two outside pieces dont have a rabbet on the outside edges. They were sanded away. The rabbet is used to catch the windows when they are inserted later. In fact, how do you know where these should go so they are spaced the proper distance apart. Use the laser cut windows as a guide. I started by gluing the two outside pieces on first. Then I positioned a window temporarily so I knew where the next one went. Do this carefully so all your windows fit. Its good to do a dry fit first. Use rubber cement to temporary hold the uprights in position. Another important note....the forward upright has a very drastic bevel on its forward edge so it fits snug against the planking. I also left each upright a bit longer and once glued in place, I sanded them flush with the top. It should look like this when you are done...but the windows are NOT glued in at this point. Dont do that yet.... You will also notice that these uprights stand proud of the transom edge....that is OK and by design. It should stand proud by one layer or 3/64" along the transom. Then we had to insert the top above each window. There are two layer remember? But you seriously only need to put the outside layer on. Its OK to leave a gap because the roof (with its shingles) will cover those gaps. I used 7/32" wide x 3/64" thick strips. This is wider than you will need. But after getting the angles correct and they are glued in position, you can sand the tops down flush like the uprights. Lastly....we need to add the fancy molding along the top edge of the Qgallery. It is scraped like the others and is also 1/8" wide and 3/64" thick. You will need to bend this to get it to lay against the surface properly. I also had to file out the aft edge of the molding so the figure would fit. I used a sharp miniature chisel actually after the molding was glued into position. I think you can see what I did so the shoulder of the figure would fit. To finish it up I will have to add the fancy fluted columns in between the windows next...but I ran out of steam and will do that during the week. 😊

Thank you so much, that is very kind of you to say.

Just a small update...I have put the seats in the galleries. This means I can start closing them up next. The seats are made of two laser cut pieces that are 1/32" thick. The front panel and the top. You still need to bevel and tweak the edges for the best fit.

Why would i do that? They used them.

Here is what the frieze with the name looks like tested on the model. Its a little crooked but this is just a test...its not glued on yet. I think this one is the winner. Thank you David for helping me with the font. It looks very good and much better than my attempts.

I actually just use a glue stick....the kind for paper. It has never failed me.

I have used regular copy paper in the past. It works fine. But I am toying around with the idea of experimenting with acid free tissue paper. Its the same stuff that I use for flags. In theory it will be easier to hide the cut edges and fold it in place. Then trim off the excess. But that is just a theory. I will try it out tonight. This test was just done with plain old copy paper. You can see how the edge turns white after cutting. I usually use a soft pastel pencil to color this edge....but I am thinking this wont be needed with the tissue paper. Chuck

Here is a photo of the frieze with the name

Yes its freaky although Im not that fat yet....but maybe after some turkey and stuffing and pumpkin pie. 😀

For a comparison....the contemporary model vs. my attempt to mimic the same with the friezes.

Happy thanksgiving guys!!!! I woke up this morning and hit the head. Took a selfie with my phone. Then I started working on the model, Here I am inspecting the quarter galleries. The 1/4" scale figure was painted by a friend of mine in my local club. He made it look like me.

Indeed it is something to think about. But as I prefer not to offer “everything in the box kits”, its important to me to at least discuss the possibilities. Then each builder can decide fir themselves. Leaving some details to “bash” gives everyone the opportunity to make the model more unique. Hopefully with so many graphics software packages out there, folks will have some fun with the frieze. Import my file and play with it.

That looks terrific. Nice fix. The bollard timbers look perfect. Have a great trip. And happy tgiving.

I also forgot to mention. I am building the Winnie as she was during the American revolution. At this time, all ships would have had their names on the upper counter. I am also working on a version of the frieze with the name. But its not very easy to make it look good. Simply because the name “Winchelsea.” Is so long. It looks kind of funny. So i may use what i show in the photos myself even though it should have the name on it. Its a work in progress.

Thanks, that is an easy one. It wont fit every model. Other than making things slightly oversize so folks can compensate, there isnt much one can do. At least not without making the outcome look extremely kit-like. If you are shooting for something better, then all that can be done .....is give folks the electronic file so they can stretch it and enlarge it until it fits their model.. Which is what i will do as well. About the false lights...I have no idea really. I just take it one model at a time

Maybe but they molding on the qgalleries are tough to do. These need to be edge bent like the planking at the bow. Its quite a severe bend actually. so i would be very afraid of smearing glue on the frieze and ruining it.

Work has started on the qgallery framing.... The continuation of the upper counter is of course first. Based on the reference marks from my template, I added the two beams that represent the top and bottom framing. The top frame is 1/8" thick. They are all laser cut for you by the way although a bit longer. The top frame needs to be beveled to sit properly against the transom edge. This image is from the 3/16" scale model and it shows the framing best. You can see the bevels and fairing outboard. On top of the upper qgallery frame sits a laser cut piece that is very thin. It is just 1/32" x 1/32". But it is curved to follow the inside curve of the frame. This will become important later. You should add this now. Here is what that looks like on the new model. Also note the pie shaped piece that forms the lower frame. This is 1/16" thick. The aft edge is beveled to fit under the edge of the transom. You can see that this lower piece follows the same angle as the top frame. Once these frames are glued on the outside edges must be faired just like the hull would be. This is in preparation for the planking that will be glued to form the upper counter as it wraps around and forms the qgallery base. The planking is actually just one piece and it has also been laser cut. Again its a bit over-sized because everyone's model will be slightly different. It is 1/32" thick. Once glued on, you can sand the top and bottom edges flush with the framing. (Also the aft edge) The photo below shows it all sanded and completed. You will have to bevel the forward edge of this shell before you glue it on....this is done so it fits snug and tight against the hull planking. Finally, you can add the fancy molding that defines the upper counter. These are made from boxwood. They should be 1/8" wide. All of the strips were scraped in their usual way to form the molding. The one thing I would mention which is an exception....the upper molding along the transom is actually 1/16" thick. This is the only one that is thicker. We need it to be thicker so it stands proud of the transom to support all of the columns and carvings between the windows. But I used the same scraper to make this one that I used for the thinner strips. In addition, I also scraped the fancy molding that is shown on either side of the stern post. These define the bottom edge of the lower counter. It has a slightly different fancy profile but is also 1/8" wide. It finishes off the lower counter quite well and neatens it all up. It separates the hull planking and any messy ends of those planks you might have been less successful with. Just cover the seam slightly to hide any defects. In the photo above you can also see that I tested the drop in position as well as the figure that sits on the end of the transom. Jack did a great job with these and they fit really well. They look great!!! If you wanted....you could add the drop permanently at this point but dont add the figure. I was just testing how it fit. In addition I thought I would test how well the friezes fit and what they would look like. These are also NOT glued on yet. They are just lightly tacked on so I could see how they look. I wanted to see the color and shape of these and if they actually fit. I have a bit of tweaking to do on these but I do think they look good. What do you think? They are literally the actual friezes from the contemporary model. They are replicated as best I could.....but are very very close. You can check them out in our gallery on the contemporary model.

Smaller guns on the quarter deck and forecastle. Larger guns on the lower deck.

If you see laser char on the edges you are not done yet. That is one of the few good things about laser char.

Yes it should lay flat along the entire edge but that is the ideal situation. The real important area is the lower bow. That must be real close or the planking run will be ruined. Any bump at the bow in those filler pieces will create an optical illusion. One that make your hull look dented just aft of that bulge caused by not fairing the lower area of the bow fillers.