Chuck

No....whatever the exchange rate is.....you pay through the NRG site. Then I give you access to download the plans. Its very easy....then print them out and get started.

Really nice work😀

Plywood bulkhead sets are all sold out!!!! I should have more more by Friday. Thank you guys. I will let you know when I get them in stock. Chuck

Believe it or not.....there are still about 20 of you guys who signed up for this group but have not accepted the invitation to actually gain access to the plans. You guys need to accept the invite to get access. If you joined and never accepted and cant figure out how.....send me a private message. But ...please read the first post in this topic first. Its all explained there. And yes....ply bulkhead sets are now in stock as well. Chuck

There are so many bulkheads it isnt really needed. In addition, once you have the ports framed, its very very sturdy. A few more bulkheads and the hull will look as if it was POF. Those are only needed on those cheap kits where the bulkheads are 4" apart or more. These are less than an inch apart on the Winnie.

Plywood Bulkhead sets are now in stock.....remember that shipping is going to be expensive. Chuck

Welcome to the group.....

Indeed it does!!!

That looks very good. Well done.

Jack needs to know how many sets of these to make in advance. This kind of detail takes a long time to CNC mill. The figureheads take hours. If you guys can send him a PM or reply here that you want one of the wood sets it would be great. Once he has them made I will post it here when they are ready and on the shelf. That is when you can buy them. Money is sent to pay for these through Paypal and its a painless process. You will get them in just a few days after he ships them. I had no issues at all getting the master sets I ordered. Either Boxwood or Jujubewood. Let him know which ones you are interested in. He needs to know if he has to make 5 or 10 or 20 sets of these things. The cast resin sets will be available on my website once I have them all and package them up. Chuck

That could be an issue that its wider. I hope not too much wider. The sides of the bulkheads determine placement of the ports. Also if the ply is rough which is what that looks like, you will need to fill and sand the sides of the ply so it can be painted to look decent. If when you widen the slots you make sure to keep the side that locates the port the same, and widen the other side.....you should be fine. Chuck

Nicely done 😀

THE BASEBOARD....I have mentioned this a few times....but hopefully folks will read this here. My baseboard for the model is 12" wide by 36" long. It is 1/2" thick. MDF or other really flat boards are perfect for this.

36" long and about 12" wide will do the trick. Make sure its at least 1/2" thick and not warped. MDF is perfect for this.

He was also a dear friend of mine. The nicest guy you would ever want to meet. We had many a long conversation about just about everything.....good memories from the many conferences we went to together. Its so sad and shocking. ......my condolences to his kids and grandchildren. Rest in piece my friend....I still cant believe it. Just 66 years old.

Just saw you ordered the cherry version too. How did the cedar version turn out of the stem? Got any pictures? Should have bulkhead sets in stock tomorrow or wednesday.

Mark are you going to laser cut the bulkheads? If so, might I suggest a few minor tweaks. Mostly on the bulkheads that have really thin points on the bottom where they get very narrow. If you laser cut this the bulkhead will end up being about 1/2" short on the bottom. It is better to shape the bottom like this so the laser kerf doesnt burn the bottom points away. Kit companies really need to do this because all of their bulkheads are too short when the ends come to a sharp point. You will fair the hull anyway....and they will end up being correct after you are done sanding.

It will be good to have for comparison.

only if you are up to the task. It’s up to you. I will be painting the stem but not until much later. It really helps the head rails stand out. It almost always comes out better the second time around. If anything you could just use the laser parts I have also. You know what’s involved and gave it a try., and it might be worth seeing how it comes together with the laser parts so you can see what the tolerances are of the tight joints. This way you won’t get frustrated....and possibly stop the project all together. It’s up to you depending on how you feel. You could use the one you have but if it will drive you nuts looking at it, I wouldn’t. I have been there.

Its not the pencil that is darkening the seams. Its the space between parts. If your seams are not tight, they will fill up with sawdust and mix with the glue and finish and turn very dark after hitting the pencil graphite. Tighter seams is the way to go but it doesnt look too bad at all. Its not an easy thing to scratch and get a real tight fit. Each piece needs to be fine tuned with a delicate touch until they fit super tight. At least that is the goal. But keep in mind that if you plan on painting the model like the contemporary version, most of the stem is actually painted and covered up. Not many of those seams will even show. So you could always take the same approach as the contemporary model and cut it out in one piece rather than assemble all of the individual parts. Most contemporary models are made like that anyway. It makes for a really clean worry-free stem. Chuck

Its quite pertinent to the discussion...I like the heaviness of the iron....even the small one does the trick. I like the additional surface area better too. I really dont like those small heater things. Just my preference. You can heat up a 3" length of plank quickly if not a longer section and really press it down firmly with the iron. You wont get the same affect on the plank with that.

😂..all done.....man you guys are demanding....LOL.

it works like a charm......its my method of choice.....well done!!! Its a very quick method to use. It requires few tools.....you could always use any old full sized iron. But having the smaller one is much better. You also wont get in trouble from the admiral, LOL.

Thank you Martyn!!!! If we were in a pub I would buy you a pint.

1) How long do you need to keep the iron on the wood? Not very long....you will need to experiment. Just a few minutes and move the iron back and forth just like you are ironing. If you get too much spring-back...just bend it some more. You will get a feel for it. Once you wet the strip with your finger....just dip in a container of water and run it across the strip first. When you apply the iron...it will sizzle as the water evaporates. As far as the time and temp...it all depends on the type of wood you are using. No absolutes. You must experiment. Cedar doesnt take long at all but boxwood will take longer. Some things are best discovered by experimenting on some scrap wood in your shop. Your conditions and equipment will vary from mine. The important thing is the concept. 2) How long does the wood need to cool before you unclamp it? Just a minute or so. OK - just thought of a 3rd question - if you're using a hair dryer, how long do you need to heat the wood? Same applies. It depends on the thickness and type of wood. Best way to find out is test it. Just bend a few test strips and play with it. It all depends on how hot your hair dryer is. Some folks like to use a heat gun but I find those too hot and dangerous. Should you guys give this a try please do share your thoughts and experiences in your build logs. I am certain that the answers to the questions above will differ from person to person. Like everything else, there is a learning curve!!!! So keep at it until you have that "light bulb" "ahhaa" moment. It would be good to see how you guys do this and what your opinions and experience were. Chuck