Chuck

Another successful method is to glue two pieces of scrap hard wood onto a baseboard. These flat pieces should be about 1" wide and half the thickness of the parts being cut. Position them about 1" apart so you slide the keel pieces between them. These will act as depth gauges and a stop for your chisels. Then just start chiseling and sanding. This will prevent rounded edges if the scrap pieces are up against the keel.

TIP of the day !!!! One thing I will point out regardless of which glue you use. Make absolutely sure that each strake is glued securely to each frame. Before moving on to the next strake, give each frame a little wiggle to see if it is secured to the plank. If your frames are not glued securely to the planking they will be at great risk of breaking when it comes time to remove the frame centers. This is really important!!!!

It looks great.....wonderful work as always Rusty. 😊

I have never had any issues doing it. The glue seems to adhere just fine for me. But thats just me. For the centering of the 3/32" pieces...I do understand the need to have it perfectly centered, but I just eyeballed it. The important thing to remember is to make sure you do have that 1/32" on both sides at the stern and stern post. Where the planking will sit flat against it. This will help you avoid sand the planking too thin back there. To help with this...I even sanded the 3/32" thick pieces back there a bit thinner to make sure the rabbet would be deep enough on both sides. But honestly, at mid ship and at the bow, if you get just get close it will be fine. Thats why I just eyeballed it and everything worked out fine. Chuck

Just a quick tip about using Alaskan Yellow Cedar...... Make sure your hands are clean when working on the model. Cedar is a light wood and it will get filthy. Make sure you remove the char from the edges unless otherwise instructed in the monograph. This will get on your hands and also dirty up your wood. Use a 220 grit sandpaper to remove the char and finish with a 320 grit. But if the parts are thin and fragile.....just use the 320 grit. Replace the paper as soon as it gets dirty. Otherwise you are just pushing the char and dirt into the wood grain..... Apply a coat of wipe on poly....satin finish on your parts after sanding. This will make your wood a bit harder and easier to clean should it get dirty afterwards. I even apply a couple of coats. This is true for he keel assembly after you finish assembling it. I use titebond II for all gluing EXCEPT for planking. For planking I use medium CA. This is for many reasons but I recommend you absolutely use cA for external and internal planking. Mike can explain why...LOL. But there is too much open time in Titebond and your planks will move and flex. This is a fragile assembly and it would NOT be wise to use clamps and rubber bands and all of that crazy stuff I see people using when the plank. If you pre-bend.....and use CA.....it will be a breeze to plank your model neatly and with tight joints. Chuck Chuck

That was really quick delivery. Looking forward to seeing this logs develop. Just take your time and enjoy the project.!!!!

Lining off and planking the hull....I tried to not get to wonky but I did want to add as much detail as possible. As you guys already know, this is much harder to write about than it looks so I hope it makes sense. Please let me know if you guys have any questions. Part two..... PartTwo.pdf

Quicker than i thought actually. But I am working on it.

Just in case.....here is a PDF of all the external planks. In case you need to trace some new ones OR make tiny adjustments for your model. You will soon see that all of the 1/32" sheets of laser cut cedar have ample space left over (done on purpose) so if you need to make new planks, you can do so without buying new sheets of cedar. external planks just in case.pdf Chuck

Looks very good!!! 😃

UPDATE..... I am getting really close to releasing the first ten hull kits. I am just waiting on delivery of the plan sheets, and some cedar sheets to laser cut one last sheet of parts per kit. I should get those on Wednesday. I am thinking by next Thursday they will be on my site and available for purchase. Lastly....I know folks got frustrated when trying to order the barge kit when it was launched, because I couldnt keep up with the demand. I am sorry about that. So I want to tell you how I plan on making Longboat kits as best I can this time around. As a one man shop, I can produce 10 longboats kits per week without wanting to stick a fork in my eye. Each batch of Longboat kits however requires about 400 sheets of milled Cedar and boxwood. If I can get a steady stream of 400 milled sheets of wood per week we wouldnt have an issue. My wood guy however, would run for the hills if I asked him for that. He has done an outstanding job milling my wood and I dont want to scare him away. I would literally be out of business otherwise. Or I would have to start using the same old crummy basswood that every other kit company uses. Mostly because you can buy thousands of sheets of basswood at a time. You cant say the same for Cedar, Boxwood and Swiss Pear. But because I am upgrading to a better wood and dont plan to stop, please have patience. My wood guy actually supplies me with about 1000 sheets of precision milled boxwood, swiss pear, Cedar and Cherry sheets every month to meet my production demands. He only does this part time if you can believe it. I used to order from Crown and Wood Project Source but it would have put me out of business if I wanted them to mill me 1000 sheets per month. LOL Not many sources for this stuff are available. So we shall see how it goes. I will have enough wood on hand to make a second batch of ten kits next week so I will start immediately after I get it on Wednesday. After that, I am at the mercy of my wonderful WOOD GUY. He is laughing right now standing over my shoulder because he knows he is going to busy for a many months. Thanks in advance and dont hesitate to ask me any questions.

Planking fan for Longboat.... large planking fan.pdf Bow and stern Lining off templates..... line out templates.pdf

Excellent!!!!!😊

Not yet....The longboat still has a lot left to do. I have to start rigging it now. Its gonna be while on this one.

Just a quick update. I am almost there and will let folks know when the next batch is ready. Here is a photo of the hull kit and everything you will get. Chuck

That would be Bob Hunt at lauck street shipyard. Its not really worth the money in my opinion and the many build logs on this site are much more helpful.....and they are free. There is also a free Bluenose tutorial online which is really good. I recommend it. Actually there are a few of them. Here is one. And I am sure the guys will post links to the many others http://tfl-modelbluenose.blogspot.com/ https://suburbanshipmodeler.com/category/bluenose-canadian-schooner/

That looks absolutely terrific Ben. I hope you had fun building it!!! It really looks great and thanks for sharing the log. Chuck

Its easy enough to change that......I will make a slight adjustment. Its easy enough for folks to change if they want to as well. They just have to change the angle of the flukes if they want. Chuck

That is my go-to color (rusty brown) for black items that I want to look like metal. I brush it on an item I painted black with acrylic and then buff it off with a soft clean paint brush. I used it on these anchors. It works a treat. You shouldnt go overboard with it so it looks like a rusty piece of junk. But just add a little and then buff off. If you paint an item neatly and the surface is smooth, when you buff the weathering powder it will give it a slight matte sheen and really simulate a metal item which looks different than anything you painted black and didnt do anything to.

https://www.micromark.com/Doc-ObrienS-Powders

So close now!!!! 😀 The rudder hinges were something new that I wanted to try since the scale is much larger. So I laser cut them entirely from boxwood. You can see that they are too thick at this stage but this is by design. Once glued in position on the rudder and hull, they are quite sturdy. This is when I sanded them down thinner so they were like the thickness of the brass strips I would use. About 1/64" thick. Then I drilled holes for the bolts and inserts 24 gauge black wire to simulate them. Filing them down so they sand proud of the straps. I also used 24 gauge black wire for the hinge pins. These are actually working pintels and gudgeons. They were painted black and then a coating of weathering powder added to make them look better and not just like a painted black piece of wood. It came out really well I think. I also must mention that I painted the edges on top and bottom black BEFORE I glued them into position. Its must cleaner this way. I only had to paint the outside after adding the bolts. The tiller was turned in my dremel from a 3/32" x 3/32" strip. Nothing to difficult. I painted and added the friezes to the rudder and mounted it. All I have left to do on the hull is add the the thole pins. Then make the oars . I already made the grapnel. Made from Boxwood and treated just like I did for my anchor kits. Chuck

Working on the rudder

Maybe, probably..... But that would be a bit "kitchen sink" for my tastes any way. No need to add every little doo-dad just because it would have been there. I think it would be very distracting and isnt warranted. But you guys can always add it in. I dont think its worth the risk of splitting that thin cap rail. It would be pretty tough to fix at this point. Chuck

For the roller at the bow, I chocked up a 1/8" x 1/8" strip in a dremel. You can use a drill or even a mini lathe if you have one. I first used a sanding stick to roughly turn it into an octagon. Basically I just knocked off the corners a bit to make rounding it off easier. I blackened it with a sharpie. and glued it into position. Almost there with the hull. Just have the thole pins and the rudder to do next.

I do sometimes cut my own brass strip but the stuff I used this time is a common size. Its available commercially. Its from K&S. 1/32 x .025 or 1/64. http://www.ksmetals.com/29.html Chuck