Chuck

New article "Modeling small figures for Ship Models" placed in the database and is ready for download.
 
Thank you Dave Fellingham for the article submission.  Very well done.  I enjoyed reading it and I am sure most of our members will also.
 
Click Here to download article
 
Chuck
 
 
Remember if you wish to submit an article to the database or for consideration in the Nautical Research Journal...please contact me.  We welcome all submissions!  

This will be my second Echo cross section. After raising all the frames on my earlier attempt I was not satisfied with the quality of my work and decided not to take it any further. The Echo makes a very nice looking model as is evidenced by build logs like Maury's and others and I contemplated a second effort.
 
I am a member of the Ship Model Society of New Jersey and I brought my Echo with me to a meeting after the last of the frames was raised. There was so much interest that the club voted to make it a "group project" where everyone builds their own version of the same model. 12 of us have signed on for this project. We placed a bulk order for wood with Jeff Hayes at Hobby Mill which arrived last month. We meet once a month to discuss progress and group problem solving. I hope others from the club will start build logs as well. Build logs help the builder and the modeling community so it is a win-win in my opinion.
 
I haven't started work yet but that should happen this weekend. The goal of this project is to build and fit out the model according to the plans posted by David and Greg. The first effort was a great learning experience and I'm sure this one will be as well. Can't wait to get started.

Windlass 2.0
 
The final version....no photoshop this time 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Windlass 2.0
 
The final version....no photoshop this time 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you gentlemen...
 
I took a break from framing because I wanted to work on the windlass.  Its 3 1/2" long. I have had the design concept in my brain for over a year and I wanted to see if it would work.  I think it came out really well.  The design is much like the lantern.  You build the windlass drum in sections and slide them onto a 1/16" x 1/16" strip.  There are 65 pieces in this windlass.   All laser cut.  Its a perfect match to the plans.  The hardest part (which isnt very hard at all)  is to bevel the edges of each face of the drum.  This is so they fit tightly together.   Once you get the angle down,  it goes quickly and without incident.   You have to bevel the edges without over doing it because you will lose the original shape of each precision cut piece.  The laser char on the edge actually help out a lot.  You need to bevel the edge until the laser char is all gone and resist beveling further.  
 
 I was worried about this ever since I saw the model in the Rogers collection.  Yes, you could shape the windless drum from one piece and carve the sprockets by hand...but that is a real challenge.  I have seen what David Antscherl did for his Comet model and it scared me to death ever since.  Knowing that others will ultimately build this model I needed to put my kit designer hat on.  This windlass is a MAJOR deck fitting and can make or break a model of a cutter if it isnt done well enough.
 
Ultimately,  this windlass will be painted all red but I am not sure yet.  Its usually shown that way on contemporary models.  If I decide to leave it natural boxwood I will paint the ends of the drum so you cant see the construction method.  If its painted carefully to look like wood, it will look like a solid piece.  This is still not glued together.  The individual segments are just slid onto the stick.  I just have to snip the ends of teh stick off and sand them down after the segments are glued together. Silly me, I got so into making it, that I didnt take any construction photos.
 
That means I will have to build another one at some point.  Lucky me. 
 
Now to take my daughter to the movies and sit with her and about 7 other 14 year old noisy girls.  Lucky me again!!!
 

 

 

 

Since there is nothing on the tube tonight I went ahead and glued the bulkheads into position.   This was something I wanted to do quickly so I get get a sense of the overall shape of this cutter.   I will start framing the gunports tomorrow.  You will notice the 2nd bulkhead at the bow has no extensions.  They wont be needed because the forward-most port will be framed there.  No warping which is great....straight as an arrow. 
 

 

Windlass 2.0
 
The final version....no photoshop this time 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi Chuck
I just did my first walk through of this build. I have set it to "follow" and will enjoy the ride. Thanks for all the detail.
Richard

New article "Modeling small figures for Ship Models" placed in the database and is ready for download.
 
Thank you Dave Fellingham for the article submission.  Very well done.  I enjoyed reading it and I am sure most of our members will also.
 
Click Here to download article
 
Chuck
 
 
Remember if you wish to submit an article to the database or for consideration in the Nautical Research Journal...please contact me.  We welcome all submissions!  

The run doesnt look too bad.  Its just that the curve at the bow in your next few planks didnt curve enough to fit properly against the garboard.  Here is a look at my hull and you can see the garboard is almost identical.  You can see how different it looks once the boat is lipped right-side up too.  That curve is not as drastic as you think.  But it does take a lot of practice to make it bend like that.  Because it does taper as well.  When you are sanding in the taper you can create a more drastic curve than you attained with just bending.   OR, If you are cutting those planks from a wider sheet...I would suggest using a stiff card as a test first.   Once you have the shape that fits,  simply trace it on the wood and cut it out.
 
Chuck
 

 

Windlass 2.0
 
The final version....no photoshop this time 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

New article "Modeling small figures for Ship Models" placed in the database and is ready for download.
 
Thank you Dave Fellingham for the article submission.  Very well done.  I enjoyed reading it and I am sure most of our members will also.
 
Click Here to download article
 
Chuck
 
 
Remember if you wish to submit an article to the database or for consideration in the Nautical Research Journal...please contact me.  We welcome all submissions!  

Hi All,
 
When starting the planking I wondered about the waste, or maybe better put, the amount of wood needed
to plank the hull in this manner. I started with a 2" x 18" piece of wood and I was able to cut all the spilied
planks for both sides and still had wood left over. I was very pleased with this.
 
Now onto my impression of this style of planking a hull. In the words of my sweet granddaughter
.......OMG........ though time consuming it was soooooo much easier to lay the planks. No twisting and
bending and forcing them into place.
 
Here are pictures of both side rough sanded. Once the entire hull has been planked I will progressively
sand it down to 400 grit and then seal with wipe on poly.
 

 

 
On to the second belts!

Never a kit...just the plans and book.  It will be a while to Seawatch Books dismay.   But they will publish a book with plans.  I will supply some materials and laser cut parts,  but not a kit.
 
Chuck

Yupp....you are correct.  There is one for every station line.  Four times as many in a typical kit.  It will make framing the gunports easier as well.
 
Chuck

New article "Modeling small figures for Ship Models" placed in the database and is ready for download.
 
Thank you Dave Fellingham for the article submission.  Very well done.  I enjoyed reading it and I am sure most of our members will also.
 
Click Here to download article
 
Chuck
 
 
Remember if you wish to submit an article to the database or for consideration in the Nautical Research Journal...please contact me.  We welcome all submissions!  

New article "Modeling small figures for Ship Models" placed in the database and is ready for download.
 
Thank you Dave Fellingham for the article submission.  Very well done.  I enjoyed reading it and I am sure most of our members will also.
 
Click Here to download article
 
Chuck
 
 
Remember if you wish to submit an article to the database or for consideration in the Nautical Research Journal...please contact me.  We welcome all submissions!  

Clare:
Anybody checking in mention you are a MSW member and we will mark your name badge with MSW and we can recognize each other by the MSW.  There are no formal events for any evening except Saturday.  We traditionally get together in the bar after the Friday events to make arrangements for who to go with and where to go for dinner.  We can make a sign for the registration table area that the MSW members who desire can meet there or Thursday evening to have a drink or more.
 
Let us know at check in you are MSW too and we can see about an informal get together.  Next year we can make a set time and place.
 
Kurt

Windlass 2.0
 
The final version....no photoshop this time 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Windlass 2.0
 
The final version....no photoshop this time 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you gentlemen...
 
I took a break from framing because I wanted to work on the windlass.  Its 3 1/2" long. I have had the design concept in my brain for over a year and I wanted to see if it would work.  I think it came out really well.  The design is much like the lantern.  You build the windlass drum in sections and slide them onto a 1/16" x 1/16" strip.  There are 65 pieces in this windlass.   All laser cut.  Its a perfect match to the plans.  The hardest part (which isnt very hard at all)  is to bevel the edges of each face of the drum.  This is so they fit tightly together.   Once you get the angle down,  it goes quickly and without incident.   You have to bevel the edges without over doing it because you will lose the original shape of each precision cut piece.  The laser char on the edge actually help out a lot.  You need to bevel the edge until the laser char is all gone and resist beveling further.  
 
 I was worried about this ever since I saw the model in the Rogers collection.  Yes, you could shape the windless drum from one piece and carve the sprockets by hand...but that is a real challenge.  I have seen what David Antscherl did for his Comet model and it scared me to death ever since.  Knowing that others will ultimately build this model I needed to put my kit designer hat on.  This windlass is a MAJOR deck fitting and can make or break a model of a cutter if it isnt done well enough.
 
Ultimately,  this windlass will be painted all red but I am not sure yet.  Its usually shown that way on contemporary models.  If I decide to leave it natural boxwood I will paint the ends of the drum so you cant see the construction method.  If its painted carefully to look like wood, it will look like a solid piece.  This is still not glued together.  The individual segments are just slid onto the stick.  I just have to snip the ends of teh stick off and sand them down after the segments are glued together. Silly me, I got so into making it, that I didnt take any construction photos.
 
That means I will have to build another one at some point.  Lucky me. 
 
Now to take my daughter to the movies and sit with her and about 7 other 14 year old noisy girls.  Lucky me again!!!
 

 

 

 

Windlass 2.0
 
The final version....no photoshop this time 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Windlass 2.0
 
The final version....no photoshop this time 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Windlass 2.0
 
The final version....no photoshop this time 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Windlass 2.0
 
The final version....no photoshop this time