Chuck

Part III: Gunport and Sweep Framing.
 
Began by cutting out the template and taping it to the hull per intructions, and as per the instructions I fastened a temporary batten to the hull to establish
the top of my gun port sills.  This was a little tricky.  #1 I the brass nails I had tended to split the batten lengthwise, as did the push pins I had.  #2 Since there are no real measurements provided and the lines provided should only be considered guidelines I was a little tentative as a newby to know if I was doing it right.  (In hindsight I'm still not sure I did as we'll see in the planking section of my build log). 
 
 
Once the line was established I began framing.  The yellow frames were done first. Sanding the outboard side of the bulwarks was far less fiddly than doing the inboard. So take your time here and be patient.  I was also concious of the fact that I would be sanding the bulwarks extensively during the phase and to take care not to thin the bulwarks too much, especially taking care not too overly sand the outboard side. 
I did make somewhat of an error here, on the starboard while sanding the bottom sills side I accidentally sanded the slight outward curve of the upper bulkhead completely off. I wasn't sure how this would effect my model down the road...so here's what I did to remedy the problem.
 
1. I glued the (upper sills) lintels as as normal.
2. I applied wood filler to the areas between the lintels (this is the area where I sanded too much material away).
3. I sanded to starboard lintels as normal, but not completely. I waited to finish the port side, so I could match the two.
 
In the end this seemed to do the trick.
 
The rest of the framing went fine. I did the green the red then the blue port. If I were to do it again I would use an 1/8 X 1/8 strip to use as a temp guide to frame the sweeps around as I've seen other builders do.  I would also say, be careful when you have to cut away portions of the bulkheads, I did endup breaking my framing on one side while cutting bulkhead 20. Glue fixed it.
 
After the final sanding to shape I painted the ports with....Golden's Naphthol Red Light, which will be my red for the ship. (looks a little darker in person)
 
Next up...Stern framing.
 
 
 

I remember that there used to be a sticky post with some links to books on 18th/19th century shipbuilding and seamanship, so to start again here are some download sites :
From Google books Pdf download:
A treatise on marine architecture - Peter Hedderwick 1830
A treatise on masting ships and mastmaking - John Fincham 1843
A treatise on shipbuilding and navigation - Mungo Murray 1754
The shipwright vade-mecum - P. Steel 1805
The young officer's sheet anchor with additions by GW Blunt  - Darcy Lever 1853
 
http://hnsa.org/doc/steel/index.htm for The elements and practice of seamanship by David Steel 1794
 
Hope it will be of some use
 
All the best to everybody
Zeh
 

She is looking beautyful as in MSW 1.0. It was really fun to follow your log.

I use Corel Draw to draft all of my plans too.   For the friezes I just used the ordinary weight paper that you print day to day stuff on.   Its thin and I didnt want to go thicker.  It also prints flat with no sheen like some papers.   I do however sometimes go with an eggshell color but I didnt do that this time.  I will have to send you some files via email some time.  I am sure you could laugh like I do when I read that there are over 100,000 lines drawn on a plan sheet.   Its nuts.  All done one at a time.  For plans I think Cad is overkill.    2D is fine for me.  AlexM also uses Corel Draw.   I have taught others in a few hours how to use it to draft plans over the phone.  Its a nice program.
 
I think a min tutorial is going to be in the works...its cheap if you buy an older version or get the student discount...A copy can be had for $99.  So I like to say good things about it.
 
Chuck

Searching for inspiration, I came across some models for 18th century pinnaces. There were large 32 foot pinnaces and many smaller examples to look at. I was particularly fond of a model from the NMM in Greenwich. It was a model of a 21 foot long single banked pinnace from around 1750. It would make an excellent subject for this mini project. It has a paneled interior and some decorative merits. I found an original draft on the NMM website that was almost identical to this small 4 oared pinnace. Things were started to come together nicely.  
 
   
 
I wasn’t necessarily thrilled with the color scheme shown on this model (pictured above) so I continued looking for some decorative alternatives. The pinnace was used a means of transport for a ship’s captain or other officers. It was not intended to be used to perform any other task. Tasks such as transporting water and other stores were normally left for the larger and heavier built boats like the longboat or launch. It was basically an officer’s private transport. It was designed to be rowed although larger pinnaces could be sailed. It wasn’t very seaworthy and was designed for primarily shore duties. After all, the officers did need a stylish way to get from their anchored ship to the dockyard. As such, the decorations were usually added much later at the officer’s and captain’s own expense.  
 
   
 
So here is my journey in creating this scratch built model.   The frames are basswood and everything else will be Boxwood.  
 
   
 
You can download this full set of instructions below as a PDF.  This was the prototype for the new Model Shipways kit.  
 
   
 
Click Here to download this practicum  
 
   
 
Chuck  

Another great example of expert workmanship by the master!   

You are a master at this Chuck, Its a beautiful model.
 
ben

The lower masts and mast tops

Part 2. Bulkheads and Bulkhead fillers...
 
I took eack of the bulkeads gave them an initial sand to remove a good amount of the laser burns around the edges. At this point I also beveled the fore and aft bulkheads using the dotted lines as a guide, making sure not to bevel completely to the line in order to have some wiggle room for fine tuning later.
 
Once the bulkhead were given their initial bevel it was time to glued them in place.  This was done one bulkhead at a time using a square to ensure the bulkheads were true to the former. 
 
Once this was complete the bulkhead fillers were cut from balsa scrap and glue into place, it was important to make sure the bulkhead former remained straight during this process.  I repeatedly checked using a straght edge and my eyes sighting down the length of the hull.
 
Once this was complete it was time to put the lower deck in place.  That meant is was time to choose a finish for the ship.  I purchased the following products for this project.
 
Minwax Natural Stain 209, Minwax Golden Oak 210B and Minwax Weathered Oak 270. 
 
I also purchased Minwax Pre-Stain Conditioner (Oil Based), Winwax Polyurethane (Satin) and Watco Wipe on Poly (Satin)
 
I tested diffrent stain combinations and finish techniques on some deckinging mockups until I came up with a finish I liked.
 
After reading build logs and discussion on this forum as well a some woodworking forums this is the process that worked best 
for me: .
 
1.  Sand deck till smooth, wipe clean.
2. Apply quick coat of Wipe on Poly, let dry.
3. Apply two coats of Pre-Staind conditioner. Let Dry and sand with 320 grit in between coats.
4. No more that two hours after second coat of Pre-Stain, apply first coat of 50/50 Natural/Golden Oak mix, let sit for 30 mins and wipe.
5. Let dry for at least 2 more hours and sand with 320 Grit.  Wipe clean and apply second coat of stain. Let sit for 30 mins and wipe. Let Dry overnight.
6. Apply two coats of Minwax polyurethane. Let dry and sand with 320 grit in between coats.
 
Lastly I faired the hull, sanding as if it was a solid hull.  This was more difficult on the inner bulwark area than on the outside of the hull.  I used a planking strip to check for good contact with the bulkhead edges and a no bulges or dips the length of the strip.

Chuck thanks for re-posting this build It is one of those very inspirational ones the planking is superb.
 
Michael

Great to see you start the log...Cant wait to see it take shape.   You know where to find me if you have any questions.
 
Chuck

Hi All,
 
I'm reposting my old pictures.
 
Here are the the pics of the keel being assembled.
 

 
Here is the Keel marked for the rabitt and it being cut out.
 

 
Here is the false keel.
 

 
 

Hi every one and welcome to my Modelshipways USS Syren Kit build log.  (This is a re-post of my original log posted last week and may differ somwhat from that original posting)
 
I purchased this kit from Piel Craftsmen of Newburyport, MA.  Bill over there is great to deal with and the purchase experience was a pleasure.
 
This will be my first attempt at modeling a model ship.  While the Syren is a pretty complex ship for a beginner, I felt that the excellent practicum included with the kit by Chuck would be a great help and make the kit approachable for even a beginner as long as I take my time. (Which I am finding difficult, because as I progress I become more an more anxious to feel the satisfaction that comes with successfully completing each step).
 
As you view my build log I encourange anyone to chime in when they see something I could be doing better or just to provide some freindly advice.
 
A word of advice of my own...write your log in another word processing program (like Word or Text Editor) and cut and paste it into the forum's editor when you're done...this will save you a ton of extra work in the event that you lose connectivity mid-post or experience a page expire/timeout.  Also you'll have a record of your work in the event there's ever an issue with the site.
 
EDIT:  I thought it might be a good idea to list some of the tools I found essential to the build as I encounter them here:
 
1. A good vise with a suction base and swivel head.
2. A Mitre Box. (I used X-acto's mitre box. but for cutting the fillers and larger pieces a large on may be useful)
3. Calipers!! I used a digital set on I got on Amazon cheap.
4. Good metal straight edge (large and small)
5. Clamps (of all types and sizes, can't have enough)
6. Good brushes of all sizes. I use a synthetic for applying wood glue as well. Just soak in apple cider vinegar between uses to keep clean.
7. A small square with a level bulb. Empire Level E255 is what I use.
8. Graduated cups for mixing stains at measured ratios (so you can repeat the look). Harware stores have them in the paint section.
9. Good set of needle files.  I use an X-acto 73610 set that has several small files with different cross-sections (Flat, Rounded, Square etc)
10. A good rotary tool. I have a Dremel and a Smaller Proxxon. Use the smaller one more.
11. A small micro or pen sander, I use a Proxxon 28594 here and it has save TONS of time.  The paper wears out quick though.
12. A good sanding block
13. Sandpaper: 80, 110 and 320 grits at a minimum.
14. Wood Filler.  I use Zar Neutral.
 
Wood not included with kit
 
15. 5/32 x 1/32 wood strips (at least 2 for upper whales)
16/ 12 x 6 x 1/16 Basswood sheet for bulwark rails.
17. Balsa for bulkhead filler blocks.
 
Thanks for reading....
 
Next Up....Bulkhead Former, Rabbit and Keel. 

I don't know if this is the right place to post it, but while researching builds of the Cutter Alert, I came across this very interesting build which really is a scratch build, but not quite in the usual way.
 
It's based on the use of Sketch Up and is really just a CAD build, but it is done as though on site and stage by stage. You can see it at http://sketchucation.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=333&t=33757&sid=f942299afdf93114ad1c504acb5c6417. Or, if you want to click, click here.
 
Sorry if the topic needs to be moved!
 
Tony

Speedwell, 1752, was a ketch rigged sloop of the Cruizer class. Designed by John Ward and Built by Thomas Slade after plans of the yacht Royal Caroline, known for her excellent sailing characteristics. Her keel was laid at Chatham 11.2.1752 and she was launched 21.10.1752 and coppered shortly thereafter. As befitting most ships of her size she patrolled the Channel and Home waters off England but did sail to North America in 1757. She was refitted as the fireship Spitfire in 1779 before decommissioning in 1780.
 
I am building Speedwell from the plans drafted by David Antscherl, who based his reconstruction on plans and documents in the NMM collection. A contemporary model of her is in the museum collection and may be viewed at 
http://collections.rmg.co.uk/mediaLib/317/media-317093/large.jpg
 
In order to accommodate the eight cannons the hull had to be pierced for gunports and some very interesting toptimber arrangements were drafted to accommodate these. A sample of the interesting shifts and casts are shown in the first photo. For now I am just posting photos of the construction process without text but will add it later if requested. Currently, I am fairing the inside of the hull, a tedious but satisfying part of the process.

Two reminders ... The two Completed ship model gallery categories are for photos of completed models only. That's why they are named as such.
 
Second ... you must include the name of your model in the title of your gallery folder! Think about this one, folks -- when people search for a model in the gallery, what search term are they most likely going to use? That's right -- they're going to search for the name of a ship!
 
BTW, you don't have to put your name in the gallery title, since your folder and each of its images is stamped with your username.
 
PLEASE do not post albums of your work in progress!  This gallery is meant to display the finished models and not become a second redundant build log.  It just wont work!!!  
 
Thanks in advance!   
 
If you have photos of your models in progress please post them in a build log or other appropriate forum category.
 
Chuck

Searching for inspiration, I came across some models for 18th century pinnaces. There were large 32 foot pinnaces and many smaller examples to look at. I was particularly fond of a model from the NMM in Greenwich. It was a model of a 21 foot long single banked pinnace from around 1750. It would make an excellent subject for this mini project. It has a paneled interior and some decorative merits. I found an original draft on the NMM website that was almost identical to this small 4 oared pinnace. Things were started to come together nicely.  
 
   
 
I wasn’t necessarily thrilled with the color scheme shown on this model (pictured above) so I continued looking for some decorative alternatives. The pinnace was used a means of transport for a ship’s captain or other officers. It was not intended to be used to perform any other task. Tasks such as transporting water and other stores were normally left for the larger and heavier built boats like the longboat or launch. It was basically an officer’s private transport. It was designed to be rowed although larger pinnaces could be sailed. It wasn’t very seaworthy and was designed for primarily shore duties. After all, the officers did need a stylish way to get from their anchored ship to the dockyard. As such, the decorations were usually added much later at the officer’s and captain’s own expense.  
 
   
 
So here is my journey in creating this scratch built model.   The frames are basswood and everything else will be Boxwood.  
 
   
 
You can download this full set of instructions below as a PDF.  This was the prototype for the new Model Shipways kit.  
 
   
 
Click Here to download this practicum  
 
   
 
Chuck  

Great to see the log back Chuck.  This is a very fine example of 'boat' building based on a very intyeresting design and an example of  very precise joinery.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Then I added two more at the keel including the garboard strake.   This left a space in between on both sides of the hull to fill in.   Having these strakes added like this really firmed up the hull.
 
The remainder of planks were added to complete this step.  I used a number two pencil to simulate the tarred seams between each plank.  When the planking was completed I added the stern post and cut the keel flush to the end of it.   I am just using wipe on poly for a finish.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

 

 

this is the first time that I have attempted plank on frame build, usualy I carve the hull shape from a block then fit keel and planking, then carve as much as I can from inside until I can see a light through, this project has taught me a lot,
 
first I think I have the pics in the wrong order but here goes first I cut out each frame using a fret saw the where the slots were on the kit I drilled a small hole at each end and cut it with "ya guesed it a jigsaw" 
 
I cut out the keel and false keel glued it up then started fitting the frames using the jig shown it makes the job much easier,
 
then came the planking well I dont need to say much about that there are enough articles on planking out there, next the fitting out the inside some bits are quite fidjety for my sausages but I manage,
 
I made the mast and other spars from beech bbq sticks run them in my dremmel to get the taper, I drilled a hole in a scrap of wood held it in the vice and run the dremmel then used a sharp knife to take of the thickest and finished with a few different grades of wet and dry paper,
 
 

As I get closer to the 'sticks and string' phase of my Victory build I found commercial serving jig very difficult to come by here in the UK. I decided to build my own using 20mm ploypropylene sheet, plastic gears, 4mm silver steel shafts and some bearings. The frame is held together with machine screws instead of being glued.
 
The operation is via a hand crank at present but I may add motor drive in the future to allow two free hands whilst operating. I have carried out trials and it operates well.
 
 

Here is the wales and hull planking 
 
I found 1 picture I forgot to repost and added it to the end. It shows the strip
I used to line up my treenail marks.

The Frigate Naiad was published by Seawatch Books in September 2012. I am starting this topic to capture reviews, questions or comments on the book. I will also use this space to post any updates or corrections to the content. I am sure there will be some, but hopefully they will be minor.
 
The content of the book is entirely different than the build log on this site. It is very oriented toward how-to-do-it subjects, whereas the build log is more of a day by day progress update.
 
Please feel free to add comments here. I will be glad to address questions as well.
 
Thanks,
 
Ed

Old business:  I have an adapter part on order so that I can put my old hard drive in my new computer, and retrieve all the old photos.
 
New business:  I have a tough time, sometimes, with the "leave well enough alone" concept.  The wale on my Oneida has been bothering me since I first put it on, almost three years ago.  At the time I was confused about the meaning of this line on the Chapelle drawing:
 

 
 
My interpretation (keep in mind I knew next to nothing, and couldn't find much info) was that it marked a difference in the wale between a strake of "straight" planking above the line, and top and butt planking below.  How silly.  But that's the way I built it.
 
 
I now believe (having seen a little more of the shipbuilding world) that it indicates a change in the thickness of the wale.  Below is a sketch of the wale as built, with a dashed green line showing how I think it should have been built--
 

 
 
I just couldn't leave this alone, so work was begun to change it--
 

 

 

 

 
 
Looks pretty ragged here--
 

 

 
 
But better after sanding--
 

 
 
During the staining process--
 

 
 
And the result after one coat of finish--
 

 
 
I probably didn't take it down quite far enough, but I'm satisfied that at least the difference is there now--
 

 
 
There's not much rhyme or reason sometimes to the things I "need" to fix, and the things I let go.  This one fell in the former category but now I'm happy and I can move on!  
Ron

Welcome back. We have a lot of work to do. Fortunately I have all the Naiad posts saved as Word files and all the associated images, so I will be putting up the entire 176 parts as soon as I can. The model is approaching completion, so I do not expect more perhaps 10-12 new posts, but there has been enough interest in the old posts to make the effort worthwhile. We will all need to be showing a lot of patience for awhile.
 
I will also opening a topic in the book section for "The Naiad Frigate - Volume I. There are some content updates I want to share there.
 
I will also be reposting the 1:96 Victory Build log, but that will be taking a back seat to Naiad for awahile.
 
Cheers,
 
Ed