Chuck

I finally attached the rudder to the stern post.   It was very similar to the way we did the hinges on the rudder itself.   But here is the step by step for the folks building her as well.
 
First thing I taped the rudder in position getting it tight against the stern post.  Then I marked the angle and position for the hinges to be placed on the stern post.  I used a very sharp awl for this.  I had laser cut some small notched down the stern post where these were meant to be.  This was also there just for reference and the notches were made narrower than the 1/16" needed to insert the hinge part.  This was just in case you needed to shift up or down a bit from those initial reference points. They really shouldnt be far off.  This also means that yes you will have to chisel those slots wider using your scribed marks.  Its not much and it is yellow cedar.  So it is soft and quick with a sharp chisel or #11 blade.
 

This time we will pre shape the laser cut hinge parts as shown below.  Just knock of the corners on an angle to match the ones on the rudder.  Insert a small length of 22 gauge black wire in each of the four needed.  Thhese were painted black ahead of time as well.

Once you open up those slots on the stern post these should be a nice tight press fit in each slot.  just center them make sure the sides are flush with the stern post.  The wire or simulated hinge pin faces downward.

A quick test fit with the rudder to see if I screwed up their placement.  Luckily everything lined up pretty good.  Note that if you have trouble sliding the rudder post into the rudder opening in the counter after adding these, you will need to open up that rudder port a bit.  Not much but use a file to carefully enlarge the aft side of the opening until the rudder clears through it.  It should sit on the hinge parts (pintles and gudgeons) very nicely.

Then add some 1/16 x 1/64 strips with the edges painted black ahead of time.  Just like on the rudder!  Use the scribed lines you made with the awl to establish the correct angle.  Only make these as long as the stern post at this point.  We will take care of the two longer lower hinges later.  Sand them as you did with those on the rudder and paint them black.

Here is what they look like painted up...

Finally the rudder can be added permanently, or NOT...its up to you.  This is not a working rudder as I mentioned earlier.  Its just simulated.  The rudder hinges were just glued together to mount it.  With the pins sticking out the underside it will look just like it is supposed to.  Then just touch up the paint and add some bolts if you wish to.  Or you can wait until after the lower two straps are added next.

For the two lower straps that extend onto the hull we have a few options.  I will tell you what I did though.  Feel free to go another way with it.  These straps should sit on top of hull planking that doesnt exit on our framed model.  So a modest layer of planking must be added so the strap can sit on top of it.  Sometimes you see a wider strip of planking that the straps sit on but I am going to make them the same width as the iron straps. Its easy to do.  I just took some painted 1/64 x 1/16" strips which were black and glued them to another strip of the same size.  Depending on your model you might need a 3/64" thick strip for the simulated planking or thinner.  This is so the hinge strap lines up with what is on the stern post.  I used 1/32" strips which worked out nicely for the underplanking.

Use the plans to measure how long these straps should be on the hull.  Shape them and glue them on.  Make sure you glue them on at the same angle as the hinges on the stern post.  You can mark that angle once again like you did before using a sharp awl or pencil.
 

Some photos of the completed rudder mounted with my simulated pintels and gudgeons.  Once again add bolts if you want to using the black fishing line.
 


 
The tiller is next...let me know if you have any questions.
 
Chuck

Thank you all for the continued likes and motivation.  I managed to work through my list above a few days earlier than I expected and there were no big surprises or gotchas.
 
When I brought my Winnie outside on Sunday to fair the decks with the mouse sander, the natural light showed just how bad the finish looked above the wales.  I think in hindsight I only sanded to 220 and applied a single coat of WOP expecting to clean it up before chapter 3.  I realized I had to completely strip the finish and start fresh.  I also had the problem with the Elmer’s school glue that had turned white. The picture is a good example of what I had to deal with.  I used 320 grit sandpaper to remove the finish, giving special attention to glue stains, rough patches and scratches.  I followed this up with a lot of acetone on the seams, patience and scraping with a piece of cedar to remove the glue. 

Then I applied 3 coats of WOP and the finish looks quite a bit nicer.  That's one item off the list.  

Moving on to fairing the decks.  I decided to color code the work I would need to do thinking it would make this process much easier.  Pink is high, yellow is low and blue is about right.  I figured the mouse sander would make short work of the job and I got hold of some 40 grit sanding pads which is where I made a bit of a mistake.  I really only needed 40 grit for the pink areas which are for the most part the bow and stern and pretty beefy pieces of plywood.  What I should have done is used 40 grit on the tip of the mouse and 120 for the rest of the sanding pad.  The 40 grit absolutely rips through the aircraft plywood including areas I didn't want to take much off.

The mouse faired the deck in about 5 minutes what would have taken me a full day or more by hand.  It did a wonderful job of smoothing out the stern and waist, but the bow was a bit of a struggle and the 40 grit chewed up some of the builkheads a bit.  The orange bulkhead is because it did such a great job at the stern and waist, that bulkhead is now a little bit high.

120 grit on just the tip of the mouse and no sandpaper on the rest smoothed out that frame in no time.  Some 1/32” basswood filler strips and a sanding block were all that was needed to smooth out the low areas.  I might need to fine tune a spot here or there and tested the false decks.  They'll require a little trimming, but there shouldn’t be any surprises come chapter 4.  

Finally, I installed the bollard timbers.  Painting the stem and bollards took a while as all the time I had spent giving them a nice smooth finish also made them resistant to the acrylic paint.  I should have scratched the finish with some 400 grit first.  It also solidified my decision that I'm going to leave the channels natural color.  

 

All the prep work that I can see is done, so time to get back to moldings and friezes.

I finally attached the rudder to the stern post.   It was very similar to the way we did the hinges on the rudder itself.   But here is the step by step for the folks building her as well.
 
First thing I taped the rudder in position getting it tight against the stern post.  Then I marked the angle and position for the hinges to be placed on the stern post.  I used a very sharp awl for this.  I had laser cut some small notched down the stern post where these were meant to be.  This was also there just for reference and the notches were made narrower than the 1/16" needed to insert the hinge part.  This was just in case you needed to shift up or down a bit from those initial reference points. They really shouldnt be far off.  This also means that yes you will have to chisel those slots wider using your scribed marks.  Its not much and it is yellow cedar.  So it is soft and quick with a sharp chisel or #11 blade.
 

This time we will pre shape the laser cut hinge parts as shown below.  Just knock of the corners on an angle to match the ones on the rudder.  Insert a small length of 22 gauge black wire in each of the four needed.  Thhese were painted black ahead of time as well.

Once you open up those slots on the stern post these should be a nice tight press fit in each slot.  just center them make sure the sides are flush with the stern post.  The wire or simulated hinge pin faces downward.

A quick test fit with the rudder to see if I screwed up their placement.  Luckily everything lined up pretty good.  Note that if you have trouble sliding the rudder post into the rudder opening in the counter after adding these, you will need to open up that rudder port a bit.  Not much but use a file to carefully enlarge the aft side of the opening until the rudder clears through it.  It should sit on the hinge parts (pintles and gudgeons) very nicely.

Then add some 1/16 x 1/64 strips with the edges painted black ahead of time.  Just like on the rudder!  Use the scribed lines you made with the awl to establish the correct angle.  Only make these as long as the stern post at this point.  We will take care of the two longer lower hinges later.  Sand them as you did with those on the rudder and paint them black.

Here is what they look like painted up...

Finally the rudder can be added permanently, or NOT...its up to you.  This is not a working rudder as I mentioned earlier.  Its just simulated.  The rudder hinges were just glued together to mount it.  With the pins sticking out the underside it will look just like it is supposed to.  Then just touch up the paint and add some bolts if you wish to.  Or you can wait until after the lower two straps are added next.

For the two lower straps that extend onto the hull we have a few options.  I will tell you what I did though.  Feel free to go another way with it.  These straps should sit on top of hull planking that doesnt exit on our framed model.  So a modest layer of planking must be added so the strap can sit on top of it.  Sometimes you see a wider strip of planking that the straps sit on but I am going to make them the same width as the iron straps. Its easy to do.  I just took some painted 1/64 x 1/16" strips which were black and glued them to another strip of the same size.  Depending on your model you might need a 3/64" thick strip for the simulated planking or thinner.  This is so the hinge strap lines up with what is on the stern post.  I used 1/32" strips which worked out nicely for the underplanking.

Use the plans to measure how long these straps should be on the hull.  Shape them and glue them on.  Make sure you glue them on at the same angle as the hinges on the stern post.  You can mark that angle once again like you did before using a sharp awl or pencil.
 

Some photos of the completed rudder mounted with my simulated pintels and gudgeons.  Once again add bolts if you want to using the black fishing line.
 


 
The tiller is next...let me know if you have any questions.
 
Chuck

To complete the rudder, we have to add the hinges (pintels and gudgeons).  As is usually the case with me on such iron work, I wont be doing any soldering.   You have heard me say often on this project and others..."Fake it till you make it"...this will be the case for these rudder hinges as well.  To start, paint both sides of the laser cut pieces for the hinges black.  You will be thankful you did later on.

Then glue them onto position on the rudder.  Glue them against the top edge of the slots for them in the rudder.  Note...I wont be creating a working rudder with hinge pins.  For the life of me I dont understand why folks do that at all.  Its not like anyone will be playing with the rudder later.  It will be displayed under glass forever so it doesnt make sense to me.  But if you want to show this you can do so by inserting some 22 gauge black wire into the holes laser cut in these pieces.   My rudder will be stationary but you wont be able to tell any difference once its all done.  Hopefully.  Both sides of these pieces should be flush with the sides of the rudder at this point so sand them flush if you need to.  I have also prepared the hinge strips in advance.  They are 1/16" x 1/64" boxwood strips.  They edges were painted black in advance.  Again you will be doing yourself a huge favor if you do that.
 

These strips were added to the rudder using the laser etched lines as a guide so the correct angles are easily found.   Just let them run off the forward side for now.  Once they are all in position, you can sand the hinges to shape as shown below.  You can also see the top hinge has not yet been trimmed or shaped.   Once completed on both sides, sand the faces of the strips a little, especially if you prefer a thinner hinge strap.  You dont want to make them too heavy.  You can even taper the thickness thinner as they work their way towards the aft edge.
 

Now its optional but this is the time where you can drill along those straps and insert some bolts.  I used 20lb black fishing line.  Then paint the straps black.  You can even apply some weathering powder to these hinges if you want them to look more like metal.  I brushed on a little brown powder although its hard to see that in the photos.
 

 
Here is how the rudder looks all finished up and with black rudder hinges.  Its a pretty effective way to make these and can be done on any model...and you dont even need a laser cutter to do it.
 

With the rudder completed I will start making the married partners for these hinges in much the same way so I can attach it to the model.  But at least you can get an idea of how it will ultimately look.
 

 
 
 
 

I finally attached the rudder to the stern post.   It was very similar to the way we did the hinges on the rudder itself.   But here is the step by step for the folks building her as well.
 
First thing I taped the rudder in position getting it tight against the stern post.  Then I marked the angle and position for the hinges to be placed on the stern post.  I used a very sharp awl for this.  I had laser cut some small notched down the stern post where these were meant to be.  This was also there just for reference and the notches were made narrower than the 1/16" needed to insert the hinge part.  This was just in case you needed to shift up or down a bit from those initial reference points. They really shouldnt be far off.  This also means that yes you will have to chisel those slots wider using your scribed marks.  Its not much and it is yellow cedar.  So it is soft and quick with a sharp chisel or #11 blade.
 

This time we will pre shape the laser cut hinge parts as shown below.  Just knock of the corners on an angle to match the ones on the rudder.  Insert a small length of 22 gauge black wire in each of the four needed.  Thhese were painted black ahead of time as well.

Once you open up those slots on the stern post these should be a nice tight press fit in each slot.  just center them make sure the sides are flush with the stern post.  The wire or simulated hinge pin faces downward.

A quick test fit with the rudder to see if I screwed up their placement.  Luckily everything lined up pretty good.  Note that if you have trouble sliding the rudder post into the rudder opening in the counter after adding these, you will need to open up that rudder port a bit.  Not much but use a file to carefully enlarge the aft side of the opening until the rudder clears through it.  It should sit on the hinge parts (pintles and gudgeons) very nicely.

Then add some 1/16 x 1/64 strips with the edges painted black ahead of time.  Just like on the rudder!  Use the scribed lines you made with the awl to establish the correct angle.  Only make these as long as the stern post at this point.  We will take care of the two longer lower hinges later.  Sand them as you did with those on the rudder and paint them black.

Here is what they look like painted up...

Finally the rudder can be added permanently, or NOT...its up to you.  This is not a working rudder as I mentioned earlier.  Its just simulated.  The rudder hinges were just glued together to mount it.  With the pins sticking out the underside it will look just like it is supposed to.  Then just touch up the paint and add some bolts if you wish to.  Or you can wait until after the lower two straps are added next.

For the two lower straps that extend onto the hull we have a few options.  I will tell you what I did though.  Feel free to go another way with it.  These straps should sit on top of hull planking that doesnt exit on our framed model.  So a modest layer of planking must be added so the strap can sit on top of it.  Sometimes you see a wider strip of planking that the straps sit on but I am going to make them the same width as the iron straps. Its easy to do.  I just took some painted 1/64 x 1/16" strips which were black and glued them to another strip of the same size.  Depending on your model you might need a 3/64" thick strip for the simulated planking or thinner.  This is so the hinge strap lines up with what is on the stern post.  I used 1/32" strips which worked out nicely for the underplanking.

Use the plans to measure how long these straps should be on the hull.  Shape them and glue them on.  Make sure you glue them on at the same angle as the hinges on the stern post.  You can mark that angle once again like you did before using a sharp awl or pencil.
 

Some photos of the completed rudder mounted with my simulated pintels and gudgeons.  Once again add bolts if you want to using the black fishing line.
 


 
The tiller is next...let me know if you have any questions.
 
Chuck

I finally attached the rudder to the stern post.   It was very similar to the way we did the hinges on the rudder itself.   But here is the step by step for the folks building her as well.
 
First thing I taped the rudder in position getting it tight against the stern post.  Then I marked the angle and position for the hinges to be placed on the stern post.  I used a very sharp awl for this.  I had laser cut some small notched down the stern post where these were meant to be.  This was also there just for reference and the notches were made narrower than the 1/16" needed to insert the hinge part.  This was just in case you needed to shift up or down a bit from those initial reference points. They really shouldnt be far off.  This also means that yes you will have to chisel those slots wider using your scribed marks.  Its not much and it is yellow cedar.  So it is soft and quick with a sharp chisel or #11 blade.
 

This time we will pre shape the laser cut hinge parts as shown below.  Just knock of the corners on an angle to match the ones on the rudder.  Insert a small length of 22 gauge black wire in each of the four needed.  Thhese were painted black ahead of time as well.

Once you open up those slots on the stern post these should be a nice tight press fit in each slot.  just center them make sure the sides are flush with the stern post.  The wire or simulated hinge pin faces downward.

A quick test fit with the rudder to see if I screwed up their placement.  Luckily everything lined up pretty good.  Note that if you have trouble sliding the rudder post into the rudder opening in the counter after adding these, you will need to open up that rudder port a bit.  Not much but use a file to carefully enlarge the aft side of the opening until the rudder clears through it.  It should sit on the hinge parts (pintles and gudgeons) very nicely.

Then add some 1/16 x 1/64 strips with the edges painted black ahead of time.  Just like on the rudder!  Use the scribed lines you made with the awl to establish the correct angle.  Only make these as long as the stern post at this point.  We will take care of the two longer lower hinges later.  Sand them as you did with those on the rudder and paint them black.

Here is what they look like painted up...

Finally the rudder can be added permanently, or NOT...its up to you.  This is not a working rudder as I mentioned earlier.  Its just simulated.  The rudder hinges were just glued together to mount it.  With the pins sticking out the underside it will look just like it is supposed to.  Then just touch up the paint and add some bolts if you wish to.  Or you can wait until after the lower two straps are added next.

For the two lower straps that extend onto the hull we have a few options.  I will tell you what I did though.  Feel free to go another way with it.  These straps should sit on top of hull planking that doesnt exit on our framed model.  So a modest layer of planking must be added so the strap can sit on top of it.  Sometimes you see a wider strip of planking that the straps sit on but I am going to make them the same width as the iron straps. Its easy to do.  I just took some painted 1/64 x 1/16" strips which were black and glued them to another strip of the same size.  Depending on your model you might need a 3/64" thick strip for the simulated planking or thinner.  This is so the hinge strap lines up with what is on the stern post.  I used 1/32" strips which worked out nicely for the underplanking.

Use the plans to measure how long these straps should be on the hull.  Shape them and glue them on.  Make sure you glue them on at the same angle as the hinges on the stern post.  You can mark that angle once again like you did before using a sharp awl or pencil.
 

Some photos of the completed rudder mounted with my simulated pintels and gudgeons.  Once again add bolts if you want to using the black fishing line.
 


 
The tiller is next...let me know if you have any questions.
 
Chuck

Started work on the frames today.  The one piece frames pretty much self explanatory.  The two piece frames aren’t that difficult either.  Following Chuck’s monogram makes it all very easy.  Nothing is glued in yet.  Still have quite a few frames to assemble and fit.  I’m taking my time with these, but I will get there.

Those are fantastic upgrades Jason. The appearance of the rigging is greatly enhanced by the upgrade in blocks. For the fuzz, try flicking a Bic lighter over them very them briefly. The fuzz will quickly melt away. Do some practice ones off the model first though. After a while you'll get comfortable enough to do this on the model.

for seizing and serving my rope....use Gutterman Mara 120 threads.  BUT If you can find it....better still is their Mara 220.
 
Use the colors 682 and 263....a perfect color match.
 
Its looking good.   
 
https://www.wawak.com/thread/thread-by-brand/gutermann/gutermann-mara-120-poly-wrapped-poly-core-thread-tex-25/#sku=gtdx263
 
https://www.wawak.com/thread/thread-by-brand/gutermann/gutermann-mara-120-poly-wrapped-poly-core-thread-tex-25/#sku=gtdx682
 

I finally attached the rudder to the stern post.   It was very similar to the way we did the hinges on the rudder itself.   But here is the step by step for the folks building her as well.
 
First thing I taped the rudder in position getting it tight against the stern post.  Then I marked the angle and position for the hinges to be placed on the stern post.  I used a very sharp awl for this.  I had laser cut some small notched down the stern post where these were meant to be.  This was also there just for reference and the notches were made narrower than the 1/16" needed to insert the hinge part.  This was just in case you needed to shift up or down a bit from those initial reference points. They really shouldnt be far off.  This also means that yes you will have to chisel those slots wider using your scribed marks.  Its not much and it is yellow cedar.  So it is soft and quick with a sharp chisel or #11 blade.
 

This time we will pre shape the laser cut hinge parts as shown below.  Just knock of the corners on an angle to match the ones on the rudder.  Insert a small length of 22 gauge black wire in each of the four needed.  Thhese were painted black ahead of time as well.

Once you open up those slots on the stern post these should be a nice tight press fit in each slot.  just center them make sure the sides are flush with the stern post.  The wire or simulated hinge pin faces downward.

A quick test fit with the rudder to see if I screwed up their placement.  Luckily everything lined up pretty good.  Note that if you have trouble sliding the rudder post into the rudder opening in the counter after adding these, you will need to open up that rudder port a bit.  Not much but use a file to carefully enlarge the aft side of the opening until the rudder clears through it.  It should sit on the hinge parts (pintles and gudgeons) very nicely.

Then add some 1/16 x 1/64 strips with the edges painted black ahead of time.  Just like on the rudder!  Use the scribed lines you made with the awl to establish the correct angle.  Only make these as long as the stern post at this point.  We will take care of the two longer lower hinges later.  Sand them as you did with those on the rudder and paint them black.

Here is what they look like painted up...

Finally the rudder can be added permanently, or NOT...its up to you.  This is not a working rudder as I mentioned earlier.  Its just simulated.  The rudder hinges were just glued together to mount it.  With the pins sticking out the underside it will look just like it is supposed to.  Then just touch up the paint and add some bolts if you wish to.  Or you can wait until after the lower two straps are added next.

For the two lower straps that extend onto the hull we have a few options.  I will tell you what I did though.  Feel free to go another way with it.  These straps should sit on top of hull planking that doesnt exit on our framed model.  So a modest layer of planking must be added so the strap can sit on top of it.  Sometimes you see a wider strip of planking that the straps sit on but I am going to make them the same width as the iron straps. Its easy to do.  I just took some painted 1/64 x 1/16" strips which were black and glued them to another strip of the same size.  Depending on your model you might need a 3/64" thick strip for the simulated planking or thinner.  This is so the hinge strap lines up with what is on the stern post.  I used 1/32" strips which worked out nicely for the underplanking.

Use the plans to measure how long these straps should be on the hull.  Shape them and glue them on.  Make sure you glue them on at the same angle as the hinges on the stern post.  You can mark that angle once again like you did before using a sharp awl or pencil.
 

Some photos of the completed rudder mounted with my simulated pintels and gudgeons.  Once again add bolts if you want to using the black fishing line.
 


 
The tiller is next...let me know if you have any questions.
 
Chuck

I finally attached the rudder to the stern post.   It was very similar to the way we did the hinges on the rudder itself.   But here is the step by step for the folks building her as well.
 
First thing I taped the rudder in position getting it tight against the stern post.  Then I marked the angle and position for the hinges to be placed on the stern post.  I used a very sharp awl for this.  I had laser cut some small notched down the stern post where these were meant to be.  This was also there just for reference and the notches were made narrower than the 1/16" needed to insert the hinge part.  This was just in case you needed to shift up or down a bit from those initial reference points. They really shouldnt be far off.  This also means that yes you will have to chisel those slots wider using your scribed marks.  Its not much and it is yellow cedar.  So it is soft and quick with a sharp chisel or #11 blade.
 

This time we will pre shape the laser cut hinge parts as shown below.  Just knock of the corners on an angle to match the ones on the rudder.  Insert a small length of 22 gauge black wire in each of the four needed.  Thhese were painted black ahead of time as well.

Once you open up those slots on the stern post these should be a nice tight press fit in each slot.  just center them make sure the sides are flush with the stern post.  The wire or simulated hinge pin faces downward.

A quick test fit with the rudder to see if I screwed up their placement.  Luckily everything lined up pretty good.  Note that if you have trouble sliding the rudder post into the rudder opening in the counter after adding these, you will need to open up that rudder port a bit.  Not much but use a file to carefully enlarge the aft side of the opening until the rudder clears through it.  It should sit on the hinge parts (pintles and gudgeons) very nicely.

Then add some 1/16 x 1/64 strips with the edges painted black ahead of time.  Just like on the rudder!  Use the scribed lines you made with the awl to establish the correct angle.  Only make these as long as the stern post at this point.  We will take care of the two longer lower hinges later.  Sand them as you did with those on the rudder and paint them black.

Here is what they look like painted up...

Finally the rudder can be added permanently, or NOT...its up to you.  This is not a working rudder as I mentioned earlier.  Its just simulated.  The rudder hinges were just glued together to mount it.  With the pins sticking out the underside it will look just like it is supposed to.  Then just touch up the paint and add some bolts if you wish to.  Or you can wait until after the lower two straps are added next.

For the two lower straps that extend onto the hull we have a few options.  I will tell you what I did though.  Feel free to go another way with it.  These straps should sit on top of hull planking that doesnt exit on our framed model.  So a modest layer of planking must be added so the strap can sit on top of it.  Sometimes you see a wider strip of planking that the straps sit on but I am going to make them the same width as the iron straps. Its easy to do.  I just took some painted 1/64 x 1/16" strips which were black and glued them to another strip of the same size.  Depending on your model you might need a 3/64" thick strip for the simulated planking or thinner.  This is so the hinge strap lines up with what is on the stern post.  I used 1/32" strips which worked out nicely for the underplanking.

Use the plans to measure how long these straps should be on the hull.  Shape them and glue them on.  Make sure you glue them on at the same angle as the hinges on the stern post.  You can mark that angle once again like you did before using a sharp awl or pencil.
 

Some photos of the completed rudder mounted with my simulated pintels and gudgeons.  Once again add bolts if you want to using the black fishing line.
 


 
The tiller is next...let me know if you have any questions.
 
Chuck

I finally attached the rudder to the stern post.   It was very similar to the way we did the hinges on the rudder itself.   But here is the step by step for the folks building her as well.
 
First thing I taped the rudder in position getting it tight against the stern post.  Then I marked the angle and position for the hinges to be placed on the stern post.  I used a very sharp awl for this.  I had laser cut some small notched down the stern post where these were meant to be.  This was also there just for reference and the notches were made narrower than the 1/16" needed to insert the hinge part.  This was just in case you needed to shift up or down a bit from those initial reference points. They really shouldnt be far off.  This also means that yes you will have to chisel those slots wider using your scribed marks.  Its not much and it is yellow cedar.  So it is soft and quick with a sharp chisel or #11 blade.
 

This time we will pre shape the laser cut hinge parts as shown below.  Just knock of the corners on an angle to match the ones on the rudder.  Insert a small length of 22 gauge black wire in each of the four needed.  Thhese were painted black ahead of time as well.

Once you open up those slots on the stern post these should be a nice tight press fit in each slot.  just center them make sure the sides are flush with the stern post.  The wire or simulated hinge pin faces downward.

A quick test fit with the rudder to see if I screwed up their placement.  Luckily everything lined up pretty good.  Note that if you have trouble sliding the rudder post into the rudder opening in the counter after adding these, you will need to open up that rudder port a bit.  Not much but use a file to carefully enlarge the aft side of the opening until the rudder clears through it.  It should sit on the hinge parts (pintles and gudgeons) very nicely.

Then add some 1/16 x 1/64 strips with the edges painted black ahead of time.  Just like on the rudder!  Use the scribed lines you made with the awl to establish the correct angle.  Only make these as long as the stern post at this point.  We will take care of the two longer lower hinges later.  Sand them as you did with those on the rudder and paint them black.

Here is what they look like painted up...

Finally the rudder can be added permanently, or NOT...its up to you.  This is not a working rudder as I mentioned earlier.  Its just simulated.  The rudder hinges were just glued together to mount it.  With the pins sticking out the underside it will look just like it is supposed to.  Then just touch up the paint and add some bolts if you wish to.  Or you can wait until after the lower two straps are added next.

For the two lower straps that extend onto the hull we have a few options.  I will tell you what I did though.  Feel free to go another way with it.  These straps should sit on top of hull planking that doesnt exit on our framed model.  So a modest layer of planking must be added so the strap can sit on top of it.  Sometimes you see a wider strip of planking that the straps sit on but I am going to make them the same width as the iron straps. Its easy to do.  I just took some painted 1/64 x 1/16" strips which were black and glued them to another strip of the same size.  Depending on your model you might need a 3/64" thick strip for the simulated planking or thinner.  This is so the hinge strap lines up with what is on the stern post.  I used 1/32" strips which worked out nicely for the underplanking.

Use the plans to measure how long these straps should be on the hull.  Shape them and glue them on.  Make sure you glue them on at the same angle as the hinges on the stern post.  You can mark that angle once again like you did before using a sharp awl or pencil.
 

Some photos of the completed rudder mounted with my simulated pintels and gudgeons.  Once again add bolts if you want to using the black fishing line.
 


 
The tiller is next...let me know if you have any questions.
 
Chuck

I finally attached the rudder to the stern post.   It was very similar to the way we did the hinges on the rudder itself.   But here is the step by step for the folks building her as well.
 
First thing I taped the rudder in position getting it tight against the stern post.  Then I marked the angle and position for the hinges to be placed on the stern post.  I used a very sharp awl for this.  I had laser cut some small notched down the stern post where these were meant to be.  This was also there just for reference and the notches were made narrower than the 1/16" needed to insert the hinge part.  This was just in case you needed to shift up or down a bit from those initial reference points. They really shouldnt be far off.  This also means that yes you will have to chisel those slots wider using your scribed marks.  Its not much and it is yellow cedar.  So it is soft and quick with a sharp chisel or #11 blade.
 

This time we will pre shape the laser cut hinge parts as shown below.  Just knock of the corners on an angle to match the ones on the rudder.  Insert a small length of 22 gauge black wire in each of the four needed.  Thhese were painted black ahead of time as well.

Once you open up those slots on the stern post these should be a nice tight press fit in each slot.  just center them make sure the sides are flush with the stern post.  The wire or simulated hinge pin faces downward.

A quick test fit with the rudder to see if I screwed up their placement.  Luckily everything lined up pretty good.  Note that if you have trouble sliding the rudder post into the rudder opening in the counter after adding these, you will need to open up that rudder port a bit.  Not much but use a file to carefully enlarge the aft side of the opening until the rudder clears through it.  It should sit on the hinge parts (pintles and gudgeons) very nicely.

Then add some 1/16 x 1/64 strips with the edges painted black ahead of time.  Just like on the rudder!  Use the scribed lines you made with the awl to establish the correct angle.  Only make these as long as the stern post at this point.  We will take care of the two longer lower hinges later.  Sand them as you did with those on the rudder and paint them black.

Here is what they look like painted up...

Finally the rudder can be added permanently, or NOT...its up to you.  This is not a working rudder as I mentioned earlier.  Its just simulated.  The rudder hinges were just glued together to mount it.  With the pins sticking out the underside it will look just like it is supposed to.  Then just touch up the paint and add some bolts if you wish to.  Or you can wait until after the lower two straps are added next.

For the two lower straps that extend onto the hull we have a few options.  I will tell you what I did though.  Feel free to go another way with it.  These straps should sit on top of hull planking that doesnt exit on our framed model.  So a modest layer of planking must be added so the strap can sit on top of it.  Sometimes you see a wider strip of planking that the straps sit on but I am going to make them the same width as the iron straps. Its easy to do.  I just took some painted 1/64 x 1/16" strips which were black and glued them to another strip of the same size.  Depending on your model you might need a 3/64" thick strip for the simulated planking or thinner.  This is so the hinge strap lines up with what is on the stern post.  I used 1/32" strips which worked out nicely for the underplanking.

Use the plans to measure how long these straps should be on the hull.  Shape them and glue them on.  Make sure you glue them on at the same angle as the hinges on the stern post.  You can mark that angle once again like you did before using a sharp awl or pencil.
 

Some photos of the completed rudder mounted with my simulated pintels and gudgeons.  Once again add bolts if you want to using the black fishing line.
 


 
The tiller is next...let me know if you have any questions.
 
Chuck

I finally attached the rudder to the stern post.   It was very similar to the way we did the hinges on the rudder itself.   But here is the step by step for the folks building her as well.
 
First thing I taped the rudder in position getting it tight against the stern post.  Then I marked the angle and position for the hinges to be placed on the stern post.  I used a very sharp awl for this.  I had laser cut some small notched down the stern post where these were meant to be.  This was also there just for reference and the notches were made narrower than the 1/16" needed to insert the hinge part.  This was just in case you needed to shift up or down a bit from those initial reference points. They really shouldnt be far off.  This also means that yes you will have to chisel those slots wider using your scribed marks.  Its not much and it is yellow cedar.  So it is soft and quick with a sharp chisel or #11 blade.
 

This time we will pre shape the laser cut hinge parts as shown below.  Just knock of the corners on an angle to match the ones on the rudder.  Insert a small length of 22 gauge black wire in each of the four needed.  Thhese were painted black ahead of time as well.

Once you open up those slots on the stern post these should be a nice tight press fit in each slot.  just center them make sure the sides are flush with the stern post.  The wire or simulated hinge pin faces downward.

A quick test fit with the rudder to see if I screwed up their placement.  Luckily everything lined up pretty good.  Note that if you have trouble sliding the rudder post into the rudder opening in the counter after adding these, you will need to open up that rudder port a bit.  Not much but use a file to carefully enlarge the aft side of the opening until the rudder clears through it.  It should sit on the hinge parts (pintles and gudgeons) very nicely.

Then add some 1/16 x 1/64 strips with the edges painted black ahead of time.  Just like on the rudder!  Use the scribed lines you made with the awl to establish the correct angle.  Only make these as long as the stern post at this point.  We will take care of the two longer lower hinges later.  Sand them as you did with those on the rudder and paint them black.

Here is what they look like painted up...

Finally the rudder can be added permanently, or NOT...its up to you.  This is not a working rudder as I mentioned earlier.  Its just simulated.  The rudder hinges were just glued together to mount it.  With the pins sticking out the underside it will look just like it is supposed to.  Then just touch up the paint and add some bolts if you wish to.  Or you can wait until after the lower two straps are added next.

For the two lower straps that extend onto the hull we have a few options.  I will tell you what I did though.  Feel free to go another way with it.  These straps should sit on top of hull planking that doesnt exit on our framed model.  So a modest layer of planking must be added so the strap can sit on top of it.  Sometimes you see a wider strip of planking that the straps sit on but I am going to make them the same width as the iron straps. Its easy to do.  I just took some painted 1/64 x 1/16" strips which were black and glued them to another strip of the same size.  Depending on your model you might need a 3/64" thick strip for the simulated planking or thinner.  This is so the hinge strap lines up with what is on the stern post.  I used 1/32" strips which worked out nicely for the underplanking.

Use the plans to measure how long these straps should be on the hull.  Shape them and glue them on.  Make sure you glue them on at the same angle as the hinges on the stern post.  You can mark that angle once again like you did before using a sharp awl or pencil.
 

Some photos of the completed rudder mounted with my simulated pintels and gudgeons.  Once again add bolts if you want to using the black fishing line.
 


 
The tiller is next...let me know if you have any questions.
 
Chuck

I finally attached the rudder to the stern post.   It was very similar to the way we did the hinges on the rudder itself.   But here is the step by step for the folks building her as well.
 
First thing I taped the rudder in position getting it tight against the stern post.  Then I marked the angle and position for the hinges to be placed on the stern post.  I used a very sharp awl for this.  I had laser cut some small notched down the stern post where these were meant to be.  This was also there just for reference and the notches were made narrower than the 1/16" needed to insert the hinge part.  This was just in case you needed to shift up or down a bit from those initial reference points. They really shouldnt be far off.  This also means that yes you will have to chisel those slots wider using your scribed marks.  Its not much and it is yellow cedar.  So it is soft and quick with a sharp chisel or #11 blade.
 

This time we will pre shape the laser cut hinge parts as shown below.  Just knock of the corners on an angle to match the ones on the rudder.  Insert a small length of 22 gauge black wire in each of the four needed.  Thhese were painted black ahead of time as well.

Once you open up those slots on the stern post these should be a nice tight press fit in each slot.  just center them make sure the sides are flush with the stern post.  The wire or simulated hinge pin faces downward.

A quick test fit with the rudder to see if I screwed up their placement.  Luckily everything lined up pretty good.  Note that if you have trouble sliding the rudder post into the rudder opening in the counter after adding these, you will need to open up that rudder port a bit.  Not much but use a file to carefully enlarge the aft side of the opening until the rudder clears through it.  It should sit on the hinge parts (pintles and gudgeons) very nicely.

Then add some 1/16 x 1/64 strips with the edges painted black ahead of time.  Just like on the rudder!  Use the scribed lines you made with the awl to establish the correct angle.  Only make these as long as the stern post at this point.  We will take care of the two longer lower hinges later.  Sand them as you did with those on the rudder and paint them black.

Here is what they look like painted up...

Finally the rudder can be added permanently, or NOT...its up to you.  This is not a working rudder as I mentioned earlier.  Its just simulated.  The rudder hinges were just glued together to mount it.  With the pins sticking out the underside it will look just like it is supposed to.  Then just touch up the paint and add some bolts if you wish to.  Or you can wait until after the lower two straps are added next.

For the two lower straps that extend onto the hull we have a few options.  I will tell you what I did though.  Feel free to go another way with it.  These straps should sit on top of hull planking that doesnt exit on our framed model.  So a modest layer of planking must be added so the strap can sit on top of it.  Sometimes you see a wider strip of planking that the straps sit on but I am going to make them the same width as the iron straps. Its easy to do.  I just took some painted 1/64 x 1/16" strips which were black and glued them to another strip of the same size.  Depending on your model you might need a 3/64" thick strip for the simulated planking or thinner.  This is so the hinge strap lines up with what is on the stern post.  I used 1/32" strips which worked out nicely for the underplanking.

Use the plans to measure how long these straps should be on the hull.  Shape them and glue them on.  Make sure you glue them on at the same angle as the hinges on the stern post.  You can mark that angle once again like you did before using a sharp awl or pencil.
 

Some photos of the completed rudder mounted with my simulated pintels and gudgeons.  Once again add bolts if you want to using the black fishing line.
 


 
The tiller is next...let me know if you have any questions.
 
Chuck

I finally attached the rudder to the stern post.   It was very similar to the way we did the hinges on the rudder itself.   But here is the step by step for the folks building her as well.
 
First thing I taped the rudder in position getting it tight against the stern post.  Then I marked the angle and position for the hinges to be placed on the stern post.  I used a very sharp awl for this.  I had laser cut some small notched down the stern post where these were meant to be.  This was also there just for reference and the notches were made narrower than the 1/16" needed to insert the hinge part.  This was just in case you needed to shift up or down a bit from those initial reference points. They really shouldnt be far off.  This also means that yes you will have to chisel those slots wider using your scribed marks.  Its not much and it is yellow cedar.  So it is soft and quick with a sharp chisel or #11 blade.
 

This time we will pre shape the laser cut hinge parts as shown below.  Just knock of the corners on an angle to match the ones on the rudder.  Insert a small length of 22 gauge black wire in each of the four needed.  Thhese were painted black ahead of time as well.

Once you open up those slots on the stern post these should be a nice tight press fit in each slot.  just center them make sure the sides are flush with the stern post.  The wire or simulated hinge pin faces downward.

A quick test fit with the rudder to see if I screwed up their placement.  Luckily everything lined up pretty good.  Note that if you have trouble sliding the rudder post into the rudder opening in the counter after adding these, you will need to open up that rudder port a bit.  Not much but use a file to carefully enlarge the aft side of the opening until the rudder clears through it.  It should sit on the hinge parts (pintles and gudgeons) very nicely.

Then add some 1/16 x 1/64 strips with the edges painted black ahead of time.  Just like on the rudder!  Use the scribed lines you made with the awl to establish the correct angle.  Only make these as long as the stern post at this point.  We will take care of the two longer lower hinges later.  Sand them as you did with those on the rudder and paint them black.

Here is what they look like painted up...

Finally the rudder can be added permanently, or NOT...its up to you.  This is not a working rudder as I mentioned earlier.  Its just simulated.  The rudder hinges were just glued together to mount it.  With the pins sticking out the underside it will look just like it is supposed to.  Then just touch up the paint and add some bolts if you wish to.  Or you can wait until after the lower two straps are added next.

For the two lower straps that extend onto the hull we have a few options.  I will tell you what I did though.  Feel free to go another way with it.  These straps should sit on top of hull planking that doesnt exit on our framed model.  So a modest layer of planking must be added so the strap can sit on top of it.  Sometimes you see a wider strip of planking that the straps sit on but I am going to make them the same width as the iron straps. Its easy to do.  I just took some painted 1/64 x 1/16" strips which were black and glued them to another strip of the same size.  Depending on your model you might need a 3/64" thick strip for the simulated planking or thinner.  This is so the hinge strap lines up with what is on the stern post.  I used 1/32" strips which worked out nicely for the underplanking.

Use the plans to measure how long these straps should be on the hull.  Shape them and glue them on.  Make sure you glue them on at the same angle as the hinges on the stern post.  You can mark that angle once again like you did before using a sharp awl or pencil.
 

Some photos of the completed rudder mounted with my simulated pintels and gudgeons.  Once again add bolts if you want to using the black fishing line.
 


 
The tiller is next...let me know if you have any questions.
 
Chuck

I finally attached the rudder to the stern post.   It was very similar to the way we did the hinges on the rudder itself.   But here is the step by step for the folks building her as well.
 
First thing I taped the rudder in position getting it tight against the stern post.  Then I marked the angle and position for the hinges to be placed on the stern post.  I used a very sharp awl for this.  I had laser cut some small notched down the stern post where these were meant to be.  This was also there just for reference and the notches were made narrower than the 1/16" needed to insert the hinge part.  This was just in case you needed to shift up or down a bit from those initial reference points. They really shouldnt be far off.  This also means that yes you will have to chisel those slots wider using your scribed marks.  Its not much and it is yellow cedar.  So it is soft and quick with a sharp chisel or #11 blade.
 

This time we will pre shape the laser cut hinge parts as shown below.  Just knock of the corners on an angle to match the ones on the rudder.  Insert a small length of 22 gauge black wire in each of the four needed.  Thhese were painted black ahead of time as well.

Once you open up those slots on the stern post these should be a nice tight press fit in each slot.  just center them make sure the sides are flush with the stern post.  The wire or simulated hinge pin faces downward.

A quick test fit with the rudder to see if I screwed up their placement.  Luckily everything lined up pretty good.  Note that if you have trouble sliding the rudder post into the rudder opening in the counter after adding these, you will need to open up that rudder port a bit.  Not much but use a file to carefully enlarge the aft side of the opening until the rudder clears through it.  It should sit on the hinge parts (pintles and gudgeons) very nicely.

Then add some 1/16 x 1/64 strips with the edges painted black ahead of time.  Just like on the rudder!  Use the scribed lines you made with the awl to establish the correct angle.  Only make these as long as the stern post at this point.  We will take care of the two longer lower hinges later.  Sand them as you did with those on the rudder and paint them black.

Here is what they look like painted up...

Finally the rudder can be added permanently, or NOT...its up to you.  This is not a working rudder as I mentioned earlier.  Its just simulated.  The rudder hinges were just glued together to mount it.  With the pins sticking out the underside it will look just like it is supposed to.  Then just touch up the paint and add some bolts if you wish to.  Or you can wait until after the lower two straps are added next.

For the two lower straps that extend onto the hull we have a few options.  I will tell you what I did though.  Feel free to go another way with it.  These straps should sit on top of hull planking that doesnt exit on our framed model.  So a modest layer of planking must be added so the strap can sit on top of it.  Sometimes you see a wider strip of planking that the straps sit on but I am going to make them the same width as the iron straps. Its easy to do.  I just took some painted 1/64 x 1/16" strips which were black and glued them to another strip of the same size.  Depending on your model you might need a 3/64" thick strip for the simulated planking or thinner.  This is so the hinge strap lines up with what is on the stern post.  I used 1/32" strips which worked out nicely for the underplanking.

Use the plans to measure how long these straps should be on the hull.  Shape them and glue them on.  Make sure you glue them on at the same angle as the hinges on the stern post.  You can mark that angle once again like you did before using a sharp awl or pencil.
 

Some photos of the completed rudder mounted with my simulated pintels and gudgeons.  Once again add bolts if you want to using the black fishing line.
 


 
The tiller is next...let me know if you have any questions.
 
Chuck

I finally attached the rudder to the stern post.   It was very similar to the way we did the hinges on the rudder itself.   But here is the step by step for the folks building her as well.
 
First thing I taped the rudder in position getting it tight against the stern post.  Then I marked the angle and position for the hinges to be placed on the stern post.  I used a very sharp awl for this.  I had laser cut some small notched down the stern post where these were meant to be.  This was also there just for reference and the notches were made narrower than the 1/16" needed to insert the hinge part.  This was just in case you needed to shift up or down a bit from those initial reference points. They really shouldnt be far off.  This also means that yes you will have to chisel those slots wider using your scribed marks.  Its not much and it is yellow cedar.  So it is soft and quick with a sharp chisel or #11 blade.
 

This time we will pre shape the laser cut hinge parts as shown below.  Just knock of the corners on an angle to match the ones on the rudder.  Insert a small length of 22 gauge black wire in each of the four needed.  Thhese were painted black ahead of time as well.

Once you open up those slots on the stern post these should be a nice tight press fit in each slot.  just center them make sure the sides are flush with the stern post.  The wire or simulated hinge pin faces downward.

A quick test fit with the rudder to see if I screwed up their placement.  Luckily everything lined up pretty good.  Note that if you have trouble sliding the rudder post into the rudder opening in the counter after adding these, you will need to open up that rudder port a bit.  Not much but use a file to carefully enlarge the aft side of the opening until the rudder clears through it.  It should sit on the hinge parts (pintles and gudgeons) very nicely.

Then add some 1/16 x 1/64 strips with the edges painted black ahead of time.  Just like on the rudder!  Use the scribed lines you made with the awl to establish the correct angle.  Only make these as long as the stern post at this point.  We will take care of the two longer lower hinges later.  Sand them as you did with those on the rudder and paint them black.

Here is what they look like painted up...

Finally the rudder can be added permanently, or NOT...its up to you.  This is not a working rudder as I mentioned earlier.  Its just simulated.  The rudder hinges were just glued together to mount it.  With the pins sticking out the underside it will look just like it is supposed to.  Then just touch up the paint and add some bolts if you wish to.  Or you can wait until after the lower two straps are added next.

For the two lower straps that extend onto the hull we have a few options.  I will tell you what I did though.  Feel free to go another way with it.  These straps should sit on top of hull planking that doesnt exit on our framed model.  So a modest layer of planking must be added so the strap can sit on top of it.  Sometimes you see a wider strip of planking that the straps sit on but I am going to make them the same width as the iron straps. Its easy to do.  I just took some painted 1/64 x 1/16" strips which were black and glued them to another strip of the same size.  Depending on your model you might need a 3/64" thick strip for the simulated planking or thinner.  This is so the hinge strap lines up with what is on the stern post.  I used 1/32" strips which worked out nicely for the underplanking.

Use the plans to measure how long these straps should be on the hull.  Shape them and glue them on.  Make sure you glue them on at the same angle as the hinges on the stern post.  You can mark that angle once again like you did before using a sharp awl or pencil.
 

Some photos of the completed rudder mounted with my simulated pintels and gudgeons.  Once again add bolts if you want to using the black fishing line.
 


 
The tiller is next...let me know if you have any questions.
 
Chuck

I finally attached the rudder to the stern post.   It was very similar to the way we did the hinges on the rudder itself.   But here is the step by step for the folks building her as well.
 
First thing I taped the rudder in position getting it tight against the stern post.  Then I marked the angle and position for the hinges to be placed on the stern post.  I used a very sharp awl for this.  I had laser cut some small notched down the stern post where these were meant to be.  This was also there just for reference and the notches were made narrower than the 1/16" needed to insert the hinge part.  This was just in case you needed to shift up or down a bit from those initial reference points. They really shouldnt be far off.  This also means that yes you will have to chisel those slots wider using your scribed marks.  Its not much and it is yellow cedar.  So it is soft and quick with a sharp chisel or #11 blade.
 

This time we will pre shape the laser cut hinge parts as shown below.  Just knock of the corners on an angle to match the ones on the rudder.  Insert a small length of 22 gauge black wire in each of the four needed.  Thhese were painted black ahead of time as well.

Once you open up those slots on the stern post these should be a nice tight press fit in each slot.  just center them make sure the sides are flush with the stern post.  The wire or simulated hinge pin faces downward.

A quick test fit with the rudder to see if I screwed up their placement.  Luckily everything lined up pretty good.  Note that if you have trouble sliding the rudder post into the rudder opening in the counter after adding these, you will need to open up that rudder port a bit.  Not much but use a file to carefully enlarge the aft side of the opening until the rudder clears through it.  It should sit on the hinge parts (pintles and gudgeons) very nicely.

Then add some 1/16 x 1/64 strips with the edges painted black ahead of time.  Just like on the rudder!  Use the scribed lines you made with the awl to establish the correct angle.  Only make these as long as the stern post at this point.  We will take care of the two longer lower hinges later.  Sand them as you did with those on the rudder and paint them black.

Here is what they look like painted up...

Finally the rudder can be added permanently, or NOT...its up to you.  This is not a working rudder as I mentioned earlier.  Its just simulated.  The rudder hinges were just glued together to mount it.  With the pins sticking out the underside it will look just like it is supposed to.  Then just touch up the paint and add some bolts if you wish to.  Or you can wait until after the lower two straps are added next.

For the two lower straps that extend onto the hull we have a few options.  I will tell you what I did though.  Feel free to go another way with it.  These straps should sit on top of hull planking that doesnt exit on our framed model.  So a modest layer of planking must be added so the strap can sit on top of it.  Sometimes you see a wider strip of planking that the straps sit on but I am going to make them the same width as the iron straps. Its easy to do.  I just took some painted 1/64 x 1/16" strips which were black and glued them to another strip of the same size.  Depending on your model you might need a 3/64" thick strip for the simulated planking or thinner.  This is so the hinge strap lines up with what is on the stern post.  I used 1/32" strips which worked out nicely for the underplanking.

Use the plans to measure how long these straps should be on the hull.  Shape them and glue them on.  Make sure you glue them on at the same angle as the hinges on the stern post.  You can mark that angle once again like you did before using a sharp awl or pencil.
 

Some photos of the completed rudder mounted with my simulated pintels and gudgeons.  Once again add bolts if you want to using the black fishing line.
 


 
The tiller is next...let me know if you have any questions.
 
Chuck

I finally attached the rudder to the stern post.   It was very similar to the way we did the hinges on the rudder itself.   But here is the step by step for the folks building her as well.
 
First thing I taped the rudder in position getting it tight against the stern post.  Then I marked the angle and position for the hinges to be placed on the stern post.  I used a very sharp awl for this.  I had laser cut some small notched down the stern post where these were meant to be.  This was also there just for reference and the notches were made narrower than the 1/16" needed to insert the hinge part.  This was just in case you needed to shift up or down a bit from those initial reference points. They really shouldnt be far off.  This also means that yes you will have to chisel those slots wider using your scribed marks.  Its not much and it is yellow cedar.  So it is soft and quick with a sharp chisel or #11 blade.
 

This time we will pre shape the laser cut hinge parts as shown below.  Just knock of the corners on an angle to match the ones on the rudder.  Insert a small length of 22 gauge black wire in each of the four needed.  Thhese were painted black ahead of time as well.

Once you open up those slots on the stern post these should be a nice tight press fit in each slot.  just center them make sure the sides are flush with the stern post.  The wire or simulated hinge pin faces downward.

A quick test fit with the rudder to see if I screwed up their placement.  Luckily everything lined up pretty good.  Note that if you have trouble sliding the rudder post into the rudder opening in the counter after adding these, you will need to open up that rudder port a bit.  Not much but use a file to carefully enlarge the aft side of the opening until the rudder clears through it.  It should sit on the hinge parts (pintles and gudgeons) very nicely.

Then add some 1/16 x 1/64 strips with the edges painted black ahead of time.  Just like on the rudder!  Use the scribed lines you made with the awl to establish the correct angle.  Only make these as long as the stern post at this point.  We will take care of the two longer lower hinges later.  Sand them as you did with those on the rudder and paint them black.

Here is what they look like painted up...

Finally the rudder can be added permanently, or NOT...its up to you.  This is not a working rudder as I mentioned earlier.  Its just simulated.  The rudder hinges were just glued together to mount it.  With the pins sticking out the underside it will look just like it is supposed to.  Then just touch up the paint and add some bolts if you wish to.  Or you can wait until after the lower two straps are added next.

For the two lower straps that extend onto the hull we have a few options.  I will tell you what I did though.  Feel free to go another way with it.  These straps should sit on top of hull planking that doesnt exit on our framed model.  So a modest layer of planking must be added so the strap can sit on top of it.  Sometimes you see a wider strip of planking that the straps sit on but I am going to make them the same width as the iron straps. Its easy to do.  I just took some painted 1/64 x 1/16" strips which were black and glued them to another strip of the same size.  Depending on your model you might need a 3/64" thick strip for the simulated planking or thinner.  This is so the hinge strap lines up with what is on the stern post.  I used 1/32" strips which worked out nicely for the underplanking.

Use the plans to measure how long these straps should be on the hull.  Shape them and glue them on.  Make sure you glue them on at the same angle as the hinges on the stern post.  You can mark that angle once again like you did before using a sharp awl or pencil.
 

Some photos of the completed rudder mounted with my simulated pintels and gudgeons.  Once again add bolts if you want to using the black fishing line.
 


 
The tiller is next...let me know if you have any questions.
 
Chuck

I finally attached the rudder to the stern post.   It was very similar to the way we did the hinges on the rudder itself.   But here is the step by step for the folks building her as well.
 
First thing I taped the rudder in position getting it tight against the stern post.  Then I marked the angle and position for the hinges to be placed on the stern post.  I used a very sharp awl for this.  I had laser cut some small notched down the stern post where these were meant to be.  This was also there just for reference and the notches were made narrower than the 1/16" needed to insert the hinge part.  This was just in case you needed to shift up or down a bit from those initial reference points. They really shouldnt be far off.  This also means that yes you will have to chisel those slots wider using your scribed marks.  Its not much and it is yellow cedar.  So it is soft and quick with a sharp chisel or #11 blade.
 

This time we will pre shape the laser cut hinge parts as shown below.  Just knock of the corners on an angle to match the ones on the rudder.  Insert a small length of 22 gauge black wire in each of the four needed.  Thhese were painted black ahead of time as well.

Once you open up those slots on the stern post these should be a nice tight press fit in each slot.  just center them make sure the sides are flush with the stern post.  The wire or simulated hinge pin faces downward.

A quick test fit with the rudder to see if I screwed up their placement.  Luckily everything lined up pretty good.  Note that if you have trouble sliding the rudder post into the rudder opening in the counter after adding these, you will need to open up that rudder port a bit.  Not much but use a file to carefully enlarge the aft side of the opening until the rudder clears through it.  It should sit on the hinge parts (pintles and gudgeons) very nicely.

Then add some 1/16 x 1/64 strips with the edges painted black ahead of time.  Just like on the rudder!  Use the scribed lines you made with the awl to establish the correct angle.  Only make these as long as the stern post at this point.  We will take care of the two longer lower hinges later.  Sand them as you did with those on the rudder and paint them black.

Here is what they look like painted up...

Finally the rudder can be added permanently, or NOT...its up to you.  This is not a working rudder as I mentioned earlier.  Its just simulated.  The rudder hinges were just glued together to mount it.  With the pins sticking out the underside it will look just like it is supposed to.  Then just touch up the paint and add some bolts if you wish to.  Or you can wait until after the lower two straps are added next.

For the two lower straps that extend onto the hull we have a few options.  I will tell you what I did though.  Feel free to go another way with it.  These straps should sit on top of hull planking that doesnt exit on our framed model.  So a modest layer of planking must be added so the strap can sit on top of it.  Sometimes you see a wider strip of planking that the straps sit on but I am going to make them the same width as the iron straps. Its easy to do.  I just took some painted 1/64 x 1/16" strips which were black and glued them to another strip of the same size.  Depending on your model you might need a 3/64" thick strip for the simulated planking or thinner.  This is so the hinge strap lines up with what is on the stern post.  I used 1/32" strips which worked out nicely for the underplanking.

Use the plans to measure how long these straps should be on the hull.  Shape them and glue them on.  Make sure you glue them on at the same angle as the hinges on the stern post.  You can mark that angle once again like you did before using a sharp awl or pencil.
 

Some photos of the completed rudder mounted with my simulated pintels and gudgeons.  Once again add bolts if you want to using the black fishing line.
 


 
The tiller is next...let me know if you have any questions.
 
Chuck

I finally attached the rudder to the stern post.   It was very similar to the way we did the hinges on the rudder itself.   But here is the step by step for the folks building her as well.
 
First thing I taped the rudder in position getting it tight against the stern post.  Then I marked the angle and position for the hinges to be placed on the stern post.  I used a very sharp awl for this.  I had laser cut some small notched down the stern post where these were meant to be.  This was also there just for reference and the notches were made narrower than the 1/16" needed to insert the hinge part.  This was just in case you needed to shift up or down a bit from those initial reference points. They really shouldnt be far off.  This also means that yes you will have to chisel those slots wider using your scribed marks.  Its not much and it is yellow cedar.  So it is soft and quick with a sharp chisel or #11 blade.
 

This time we will pre shape the laser cut hinge parts as shown below.  Just knock of the corners on an angle to match the ones on the rudder.  Insert a small length of 22 gauge black wire in each of the four needed.  Thhese were painted black ahead of time as well.

Once you open up those slots on the stern post these should be a nice tight press fit in each slot.  just center them make sure the sides are flush with the stern post.  The wire or simulated hinge pin faces downward.

A quick test fit with the rudder to see if I screwed up their placement.  Luckily everything lined up pretty good.  Note that if you have trouble sliding the rudder post into the rudder opening in the counter after adding these, you will need to open up that rudder port a bit.  Not much but use a file to carefully enlarge the aft side of the opening until the rudder clears through it.  It should sit on the hinge parts (pintles and gudgeons) very nicely.

Then add some 1/16 x 1/64 strips with the edges painted black ahead of time.  Just like on the rudder!  Use the scribed lines you made with the awl to establish the correct angle.  Only make these as long as the stern post at this point.  We will take care of the two longer lower hinges later.  Sand them as you did with those on the rudder and paint them black.

Here is what they look like painted up...

Finally the rudder can be added permanently, or NOT...its up to you.  This is not a working rudder as I mentioned earlier.  Its just simulated.  The rudder hinges were just glued together to mount it.  With the pins sticking out the underside it will look just like it is supposed to.  Then just touch up the paint and add some bolts if you wish to.  Or you can wait until after the lower two straps are added next.

For the two lower straps that extend onto the hull we have a few options.  I will tell you what I did though.  Feel free to go another way with it.  These straps should sit on top of hull planking that doesnt exit on our framed model.  So a modest layer of planking must be added so the strap can sit on top of it.  Sometimes you see a wider strip of planking that the straps sit on but I am going to make them the same width as the iron straps. Its easy to do.  I just took some painted 1/64 x 1/16" strips which were black and glued them to another strip of the same size.  Depending on your model you might need a 3/64" thick strip for the simulated planking or thinner.  This is so the hinge strap lines up with what is on the stern post.  I used 1/32" strips which worked out nicely for the underplanking.

Use the plans to measure how long these straps should be on the hull.  Shape them and glue them on.  Make sure you glue them on at the same angle as the hinges on the stern post.  You can mark that angle once again like you did before using a sharp awl or pencil.
 

Some photos of the completed rudder mounted with my simulated pintels and gudgeons.  Once again add bolts if you want to using the black fishing line.
 


 
The tiller is next...let me know if you have any questions.
 
Chuck

I finally attached the rudder to the stern post.   It was very similar to the way we did the hinges on the rudder itself.   But here is the step by step for the folks building her as well.
 
First thing I taped the rudder in position getting it tight against the stern post.  Then I marked the angle and position for the hinges to be placed on the stern post.  I used a very sharp awl for this.  I had laser cut some small notched down the stern post where these were meant to be.  This was also there just for reference and the notches were made narrower than the 1/16" needed to insert the hinge part.  This was just in case you needed to shift up or down a bit from those initial reference points. They really shouldnt be far off.  This also means that yes you will have to chisel those slots wider using your scribed marks.  Its not much and it is yellow cedar.  So it is soft and quick with a sharp chisel or #11 blade.
 

This time we will pre shape the laser cut hinge parts as shown below.  Just knock of the corners on an angle to match the ones on the rudder.  Insert a small length of 22 gauge black wire in each of the four needed.  Thhese were painted black ahead of time as well.

Once you open up those slots on the stern post these should be a nice tight press fit in each slot.  just center them make sure the sides are flush with the stern post.  The wire or simulated hinge pin faces downward.

A quick test fit with the rudder to see if I screwed up their placement.  Luckily everything lined up pretty good.  Note that if you have trouble sliding the rudder post into the rudder opening in the counter after adding these, you will need to open up that rudder port a bit.  Not much but use a file to carefully enlarge the aft side of the opening until the rudder clears through it.  It should sit on the hinge parts (pintles and gudgeons) very nicely.

Then add some 1/16 x 1/64 strips with the edges painted black ahead of time.  Just like on the rudder!  Use the scribed lines you made with the awl to establish the correct angle.  Only make these as long as the stern post at this point.  We will take care of the two longer lower hinges later.  Sand them as you did with those on the rudder and paint them black.

Here is what they look like painted up...

Finally the rudder can be added permanently, or NOT...its up to you.  This is not a working rudder as I mentioned earlier.  Its just simulated.  The rudder hinges were just glued together to mount it.  With the pins sticking out the underside it will look just like it is supposed to.  Then just touch up the paint and add some bolts if you wish to.  Or you can wait until after the lower two straps are added next.

For the two lower straps that extend onto the hull we have a few options.  I will tell you what I did though.  Feel free to go another way with it.  These straps should sit on top of hull planking that doesnt exit on our framed model.  So a modest layer of planking must be added so the strap can sit on top of it.  Sometimes you see a wider strip of planking that the straps sit on but I am going to make them the same width as the iron straps. Its easy to do.  I just took some painted 1/64 x 1/16" strips which were black and glued them to another strip of the same size.  Depending on your model you might need a 3/64" thick strip for the simulated planking or thinner.  This is so the hinge strap lines up with what is on the stern post.  I used 1/32" strips which worked out nicely for the underplanking.

Use the plans to measure how long these straps should be on the hull.  Shape them and glue them on.  Make sure you glue them on at the same angle as the hinges on the stern post.  You can mark that angle once again like you did before using a sharp awl or pencil.
 

Some photos of the completed rudder mounted with my simulated pintels and gudgeons.  Once again add bolts if you want to using the black fishing line.
 


 
The tiller is next...let me know if you have any questions.
 
Chuck

I finally attached the rudder to the stern post.   It was very similar to the way we did the hinges on the rudder itself.   But here is the step by step for the folks building her as well.
 
First thing I taped the rudder in position getting it tight against the stern post.  Then I marked the angle and position for the hinges to be placed on the stern post.  I used a very sharp awl for this.  I had laser cut some small notched down the stern post where these were meant to be.  This was also there just for reference and the notches were made narrower than the 1/16" needed to insert the hinge part.  This was just in case you needed to shift up or down a bit from those initial reference points. They really shouldnt be far off.  This also means that yes you will have to chisel those slots wider using your scribed marks.  Its not much and it is yellow cedar.  So it is soft and quick with a sharp chisel or #11 blade.
 

This time we will pre shape the laser cut hinge parts as shown below.  Just knock of the corners on an angle to match the ones on the rudder.  Insert a small length of 22 gauge black wire in each of the four needed.  Thhese were painted black ahead of time as well.

Once you open up those slots on the stern post these should be a nice tight press fit in each slot.  just center them make sure the sides are flush with the stern post.  The wire or simulated hinge pin faces downward.

A quick test fit with the rudder to see if I screwed up their placement.  Luckily everything lined up pretty good.  Note that if you have trouble sliding the rudder post into the rudder opening in the counter after adding these, you will need to open up that rudder port a bit.  Not much but use a file to carefully enlarge the aft side of the opening until the rudder clears through it.  It should sit on the hinge parts (pintles and gudgeons) very nicely.

Then add some 1/16 x 1/64 strips with the edges painted black ahead of time.  Just like on the rudder!  Use the scribed lines you made with the awl to establish the correct angle.  Only make these as long as the stern post at this point.  We will take care of the two longer lower hinges later.  Sand them as you did with those on the rudder and paint them black.

Here is what they look like painted up...

Finally the rudder can be added permanently, or NOT...its up to you.  This is not a working rudder as I mentioned earlier.  Its just simulated.  The rudder hinges were just glued together to mount it.  With the pins sticking out the underside it will look just like it is supposed to.  Then just touch up the paint and add some bolts if you wish to.  Or you can wait until after the lower two straps are added next.

For the two lower straps that extend onto the hull we have a few options.  I will tell you what I did though.  Feel free to go another way with it.  These straps should sit on top of hull planking that doesnt exit on our framed model.  So a modest layer of planking must be added so the strap can sit on top of it.  Sometimes you see a wider strip of planking that the straps sit on but I am going to make them the same width as the iron straps. Its easy to do.  I just took some painted 1/64 x 1/16" strips which were black and glued them to another strip of the same size.  Depending on your model you might need a 3/64" thick strip for the simulated planking or thinner.  This is so the hinge strap lines up with what is on the stern post.  I used 1/32" strips which worked out nicely for the underplanking.

Use the plans to measure how long these straps should be on the hull.  Shape them and glue them on.  Make sure you glue them on at the same angle as the hinges on the stern post.  You can mark that angle once again like you did before using a sharp awl or pencil.
 

Some photos of the completed rudder mounted with my simulated pintels and gudgeons.  Once again add bolts if you want to using the black fishing line.
 


 
The tiller is next...let me know if you have any questions.
 
Chuck

I finally attached the rudder to the stern post.   It was very similar to the way we did the hinges on the rudder itself.   But here is the step by step for the folks building her as well.
 
First thing I taped the rudder in position getting it tight against the stern post.  Then I marked the angle and position for the hinges to be placed on the stern post.  I used a very sharp awl for this.  I had laser cut some small notched down the stern post where these were meant to be.  This was also there just for reference and the notches were made narrower than the 1/16" needed to insert the hinge part.  This was just in case you needed to shift up or down a bit from those initial reference points. They really shouldnt be far off.  This also means that yes you will have to chisel those slots wider using your scribed marks.  Its not much and it is yellow cedar.  So it is soft and quick with a sharp chisel or #11 blade.
 

This time we will pre shape the laser cut hinge parts as shown below.  Just knock of the corners on an angle to match the ones on the rudder.  Insert a small length of 22 gauge black wire in each of the four needed.  Thhese were painted black ahead of time as well.

Once you open up those slots on the stern post these should be a nice tight press fit in each slot.  just center them make sure the sides are flush with the stern post.  The wire or simulated hinge pin faces downward.

A quick test fit with the rudder to see if I screwed up their placement.  Luckily everything lined up pretty good.  Note that if you have trouble sliding the rudder post into the rudder opening in the counter after adding these, you will need to open up that rudder port a bit.  Not much but use a file to carefully enlarge the aft side of the opening until the rudder clears through it.  It should sit on the hinge parts (pintles and gudgeons) very nicely.

Then add some 1/16 x 1/64 strips with the edges painted black ahead of time.  Just like on the rudder!  Use the scribed lines you made with the awl to establish the correct angle.  Only make these as long as the stern post at this point.  We will take care of the two longer lower hinges later.  Sand them as you did with those on the rudder and paint them black.

Here is what they look like painted up...

Finally the rudder can be added permanently, or NOT...its up to you.  This is not a working rudder as I mentioned earlier.  Its just simulated.  The rudder hinges were just glued together to mount it.  With the pins sticking out the underside it will look just like it is supposed to.  Then just touch up the paint and add some bolts if you wish to.  Or you can wait until after the lower two straps are added next.

For the two lower straps that extend onto the hull we have a few options.  I will tell you what I did though.  Feel free to go another way with it.  These straps should sit on top of hull planking that doesnt exit on our framed model.  So a modest layer of planking must be added so the strap can sit on top of it.  Sometimes you see a wider strip of planking that the straps sit on but I am going to make them the same width as the iron straps. Its easy to do.  I just took some painted 1/64 x 1/16" strips which were black and glued them to another strip of the same size.  Depending on your model you might need a 3/64" thick strip for the simulated planking or thinner.  This is so the hinge strap lines up with what is on the stern post.  I used 1/32" strips which worked out nicely for the underplanking.

Use the plans to measure how long these straps should be on the hull.  Shape them and glue them on.  Make sure you glue them on at the same angle as the hinges on the stern post.  You can mark that angle once again like you did before using a sharp awl or pencil.
 

Some photos of the completed rudder mounted with my simulated pintels and gudgeons.  Once again add bolts if you want to using the black fishing line.
 


 
The tiller is next...let me know if you have any questions.
 
Chuck