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Bill Morrison

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Everything posted by Bill Morrison

  1. Actually, I would also love to see those photos. Unfortunately, there is some skepticism about the AoS book in some of the details. I also reenlisted in the Navy three times onboard USS Constitution. Unfortunately, I took few photos when I did so. Bill
  2. I used the same technique on an old (now defunct) Aeropiccola kit of the HMS Victory. It worked well. One advantage to her small scale was that I used Plastruct square tubing to square the gunports. One part of ship modeling I have always enjoyed is to come up with out-of-the-box ideas to make a better model! Bill
  3. Avi, My wife and I now watch a few television shows about the behind-the-scenes care of animals at zoos. Whenever they show veterinary dental work on the animals., they use Dremel tools, including cutting and sanding disks, I immediately think of my dentist as well! Bill
  4. Keith, I am so sorry to hear this horrible news. God bless you and give you strength. You are the third of my friends to have recently lost a son, so know that you are not alone. Have you considered finishing your model and dedicating the ship to him? Bill
  5. I love your solution with the bass wood fillers. I have the Constructo HMS Pandora that has the same issue; as designed, the kit's bow and forecastle is much too sharp. A bow filler could be the solution. Bill Morrison
  6. You were mentioning earlier about the copper plating being too high. Given that the model does not have planking detail, you could consider planking the sides, using planks to cover the requisite copper plates. There is little to no sanding required. Bill
  7. Marc, The angle of the cap to the piece you made doesn't look right as it violates the ship's lines aft. It is the only piece with a down-slant aft looking at the broadside view. The forward view looking aft shows the piece tilted downwards. Bill
  8. I am concerned that the guns at museums do not resemble guns at sea. A sailor's life is spent cleaning, painting, maintenance, etc. and guns were well painted with black paint (at least from the late 18th century). As a retired Senior Chief Petty Officer, I would never allow sailors under me to allow any kind of patina anywhere on my ship. However, I am not sure about the period in question. Can someone please enlighten me? Bill
  9. They are long out of business. I apologize for not making that clear. My point is that you should look around and compare prices. You might be surprised with what you find. Bill
  10. I'm still weighing in with my answer because nobody has said what I said. Is that okay? Bill
  11. One of the things I do to help reduce the costs of ship models is to comparative shop. For example, I used to shop with Model Expo, but as their offerings declined, as their costs rose, and the quality of their service declined, I switched to 1) Model Dromedary, 2) www.agesofsail.com, and 3) from various European sources. I found that I could find better prices and shipping costs by varying my sources. Bill
  12. Nice job so far! I love this ship, and I will be following. Bill
  13. Tom, I am formerly a teacher and professor of history, so I typically go with where the research leads. However, I also know that research has limitations, and I haven't seen enough to convince me that the new colors are correct. For example, the Victory is a notoriously long-lived ship that has undergone many alterations, even before Trafalgar. I haven't seen enough evidence to indicate that this "new" color was the color scheme at Trafalgar. However, every period or near period painting shows her in distinctive yellow ochre stripes. So, I will stick to the traditional yellow ochre on my model. Your daughter seems most astute! Bill
  14. Yes, I know Marc, and I have built this model several times, making the already mentioned alterations. He and I have disagreed occasionally on some finer points. Disagreement, however, does not imply disrespect. His work is a thing of beauty. But, the deck furniture has always looked appropriate to me, although I have added a galley stove pipe per Mondfeld. The crux of my question is simply "In what specific way is the Heller SR deck furniture 'wrong' ?" Bill Morrison
  15. Ian, I agree with everything you've said. But, I corrected the masts and spars issues by using Mondfeld as a guide. I corrected the smooth inboard side of the bulwarks by using plastic strips. I also planked over the entire decks with wood. I put in a ladder to the poop deck. To me, these corrections were easy. My problem is that so many fellow modelers kept referring to missing deck furniture. It's interesting that the furniture found on other models of ships-of-the-line show the exact deck furniture of Heller's SR. What is missing, if anything? Bill
  16. Keith, Thank you for the reference. I appreciate it very much! As I suspected, I don't see much difference in the deck layout with that of the Heller kit. Bill
  17. Ever since I discovered this kit (early 1970s) I have heard many people complain that it was inaccurate, with little to no deck furniture, the masts and yards were not proportioned correctly, and the hull was not shaped right, especially below the waterline. I have addressed the masts and spars by using the tables found in Mondfeld's Period Ship Models. I raised the waterline to the lowest wale, correcting that issue. I believe that the width of the hull is okay given the waterline adjustment. But, no one has ever provided any information about the deck furniture. Indeed, when they knowingly make the statement that the furniture is wrong, I ask about the accuracy issues. I have been met with a stony and unknowledgeable glassy-eyed look. The question remains; What exactly are the problems with the deck layout of this model? Bill Morrison
  18. Henry, I have the good fortune that I am retired and can focus more on modeling. It's great! Bill
  19. I love your methos for filling in the knee of the head! That is a really creative approach. Great job! Bill
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