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Everything posted by Bill Morrison
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The same process used in determining colors used on the Wasa were used when researchers began examining ancient Greek and Roman sculptures. They have been found to have actually been vibrantly painted as opposed to the stoic monochrome appearance of plain granite. In my mind, Marc is spot on. Bill
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Ian, I dropped off the radar after my wife suffered a cardiac aneurism and nearly died. After she finally got well, I suffered several injuries, breaking my hip and my left knee. I then focused my efforts on the CSS Alabama while I got better. Unfortunately, I have not gotten better yet, but the Alabama is almost done. Bill
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Ian, As I've said early into your build, I'm a big fan of your Preussen. You are doing extremely well. I had started with my conversion of the very similar kit of the fictional Cap Horn to the real Flying P-Liner Potosi, but I have put it aside to work on my conversion of the Revell CSS Alabama to better reflect the real ship. I am almost finished with her and will get back to the Potosi, using your Preussen as inspiration! Bill Morrison
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Ancient marble sculptures were actually painted. Their paint has been washed away by the ravages of time. In fact, carvings on ships were often painted not gilded because of the expense, as evidenced by findings on the Wasa. Marc, I love your work on the sculptures. SR I is pictured quite well by Berain. The blue and gold is quite striking, and it indicates to me that the gold is not gilded because of the expense and the wasting effects of salt water. I assume that not even King Louis XIV would throw away gold to that extreme. I would love to find similar paintings of SR 2. Bill Morrison
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Bill97, I like to think outside of the box when building or rigging. I usually throw away kit instructions when rigging and go with my sources. I strongly recommend that you consider this approach. For example, the rigging plan for the Heller kit is terrible. They don't even include any method for attaching yards to the masts, so you have to deviate from the kit instructions there. I assume that you do have the "HMS Victory: Anatomy of the Ship". That would be a great place to start. I haven't seen the Caldercraft instructions so I could not give a truthful answer there, but I have seen several Victory kits with questionable plans. For example, I have been converting the plastic Revell 1/96 CSS Alabama in which I used the plans by Boucher purchased from a dealer. The kit was badly (I mean BADLY) designed in which almost every detail was wrong. I now have a decent model of the ship, but the rigging and sail plan was terrible. I went with my source, the Boucher plans. I am very satisfied that I now have a reasonably accurate model of the CSS Alabama. Bill Morrison
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The problem is that HMS Victory is well-over 250 years old. Her details changed with every refit. Of note, she was built with a much different transom and stern walk arrangement than at Trafalgar. Her appearance before Trafalgar was much different than either at or after Trafalgar. Note that the Heller model depicts her without the entry ports but with reduced fo'c'sle bulwarks. The Caldercraft kit depicts her with raised fo'c'sle bulwarks. The question is for you, the builder, to decide which era do you intend your model to represent? Bill
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I used the same technique on an old (now defunct) Aeropiccola kit of the HMS Victory. It worked well. One advantage to her small scale was that I used Plastruct square tubing to square the gunports. One part of ship modeling I have always enjoyed is to come up with out-of-the-box ideas to make a better model! Bill
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Keith, I am so sorry to hear this horrible news. God bless you and give you strength. You are the third of my friends to have recently lost a son, so know that you are not alone. Have you considered finishing your model and dedicating the ship to him? Bill
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Wow! I keep getting more impressed with your work and your model. Your dedication to this ship is so obvious! Bill
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You were mentioning earlier about the copper plating being too high. Given that the model does not have planking detail, you could consider planking the sides, using planks to cover the requisite copper plates. There is little to no sanding required. Bill
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Marc, The angle of the cap to the piece you made doesn't look right as it violates the ship's lines aft. It is the only piece with a down-slant aft looking at the broadside view. The forward view looking aft shows the piece tilted downwards. Bill
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I am concerned that the guns at museums do not resemble guns at sea. A sailor's life is spent cleaning, painting, maintenance, etc. and guns were well painted with black paint (at least from the late 18th century). As a retired Senior Chief Petty Officer, I would never allow sailors under me to allow any kind of patina anywhere on my ship. However, I am not sure about the period in question. Can someone please enlighten me? Bill
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They are long out of business. I apologize for not making that clear. My point is that you should look around and compare prices. You might be surprised with what you find. Bill
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I'm still weighing in with my answer because nobody has said what I said. Is that okay? Bill
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One of the things I do to help reduce the costs of ship models is to comparative shop. For example, I used to shop with Model Expo, but as their offerings declined, as their costs rose, and the quality of their service declined, I switched to 1) Model Dromedary, 2) www.agesofsail.com, and 3) from various European sources. I found that I could find better prices and shipping costs by varying my sources. Bill
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Tom, I am formerly a teacher and professor of history, so I typically go with where the research leads. However, I also know that research has limitations, and I haven't seen enough to convince me that the new colors are correct. For example, the Victory is a notoriously long-lived ship that has undergone many alterations, even before Trafalgar. I haven't seen enough evidence to indicate that this "new" color was the color scheme at Trafalgar. However, every period or near period painting shows her in distinctive yellow ochre stripes. So, I will stick to the traditional yellow ochre on my model. Your daughter seems most astute! Bill
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