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Everything posted by michael mott
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Hi Dan, I just came across this log, Hats off to you sir! what a super job you are doing with a very challenging restoration. Given my very limited experience working with bone, I would not be able to take on such a project, As Druxey mentioned the smell is apparent, and for me the game changer. Very interesting work on the "cooked " rigging lines. Michael
- 95 replies
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- POW
- Bone model
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It is always nice to use wood that you have prepared for yourself, and by air drying it it retains a particular character that kiln dried wood does not. Good luck with the stickering. I have used paraffin wax on the ends, the same stuff used for canning, just heat it up in a saucepan and paint it on with a pastry brush. If you cut it into thinner slabs than 1 inch it is good to put some weight on top or straps around the bundle to help with the drying flat. Michael
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Bob thanks for the detailed information regarding the through hull outlets and the siphon loops. I had not really thought about this aspect of our modern small cruise boats let alone the older craft. I agree...But.... but my grandaughter would not. Seriously though The idea is to be able to show what can be seen relatively easily and a few things that need a little searching but still visible with perhaps a small dental type mirror. I do want to move on to the next project before I am too old to have fun. Thank you to everyone who is following along and showing their appreciation in one way or another. Michael
- 2,196 replies
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Your work on the masts and rigging so far is looking really great nice and tidy, Im sure you will have no trouble with the ratlines. Michael
- 949 replies
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- syren
- model shipways
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It depends on the thickness of the material and the number of teeth. The coarser blades are generally easier for the wood. In this case the blade was fine enough to also cut the copper because it was sharp and had not become dull from cutting metal before. This graphic representation shows the .031 copper and the #1 jewelers blade that has 47 teeth per inch next to the edge of the metal there need to be at least 2 teeth engaging with the metal or the blade will catch and there is a possibility of ripping off a tooth and or snapping the blade. I hope this answers your question. I also have some #8/0, #5/0, #3/0 The #8/0 is the finest. Michael
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I'll have to wrap my head around this one! Just a never ending list of details...will it ever end?😉 Michael
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Well here is the truth about the new sink. First task was to start with a new former And cut a new sheet of copper .031" After laying out the cuts use jewelers saw. Then without any annealing begin the folds At this point I needed to do some cutting and used a small nibbler Then the trimmed edges need to be cleaned up this was done by first unfolding the metal a little Then using a bit of wood as a guide filed the edges. The refolded and wired the seams together and used easyflo silver solder to join the seams. My silver soldering skills still leave a lot to be desired but I am improving. and it looks better than the first one. I would do it differently if I had to do it again, making only clean corner joints...... but that's for another boat. Michael
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Yes this is interesting, The model is really a vehicle for my learning about model ships and boats. And in reality it is just that, because I am using materials and ideas from all sort of times and styles. I spent some time today discussing the bashed up sink with the owner and he said "well I know we are on a budget but its not that tight, cant you find a better sink than that." So looking around I found this one Michael
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Hi Vaddoc, I was not able to avoid "dog ears" as you say. I had to trim the edges a few times to remove excess material as it closed up Also I used some heavy needle nosed pliers a fer times to flatten out a couple of areas at the corners that were beginning to fold. I do not have the proper tools for serious metal smithing in a jewelers sense, so the final form is a bit crude. Sorry I did not take a few more pictures of some of the steps especially the trimming, to remove the excess, it was a lot of concentration during the work. Oh yes lots of stuff, And that is what is so great about this site I learn so much from all the wonderful things that the other members do. Oh oh.... I see another gauntlet.... I was looking at the web regarding stoves and it seems like the one in Integrity is a Taylor Stove there are some good photographs, it was also interesting reading about the pros and cons of the different fuel types, Old Style Alcohol, New Style Pressure Alcohol , plus the kerosene /diesel types and the LPG gas ones. Michael
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I had a long chat with the owner and he reminded me that we were on a budget with this refit so I mentioned that I would try to find a used copper sink, I found one on MYBAY it was the right price. Checked the fit Ok so here's how I did it Cut out a bit of copper sheet made up a former from some scrap maple 2x1.5x 3/4 then sanded it smooth. Annealed the copper and started bashing Many annealings and bashings later with a leather mallet and more bashings couple of different hammers but mostly with a too big ball pein. A couple of clean up hammerings and then cleaned up the top and dropped it into the pickle . I picked up the gauntlet Druxey you have a habit of dropping it.😉 I'm not going down that other rabbit hole Greg I think I read an article about that Model in a Scale ships or similar magazine I seem to recall it had gold and silver fittings. Eberhard, I have not figured it out yet I will be doing a bit of searching to see if I can find some better pictures of the type that is in Integrity. Michael
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A little more fiddling with the design of the kitchen/chart area with some card mock ups. Not much to say about these pics other than it is fiddly work putting these card bits in and out, but they will help me build the wooden equivalents. I think that I will drape mold the sink out of styrene then spray it silver. My silver smith friend would cringe if she hear me say that. Michael
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Wow! that is beautiful clean work. Michael
- 257 replies
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- young america
- Finished
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Just finished watching your presentation Eric, thanks for doing it and for the link, I learned a whole bunch of new things about the river boats. A great presentation. Michael
- 599 replies
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- sidewheeler
- arabia
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Ah yes..... more, bigger, better! The issues of being land locked and with shallow lakes around my neck of the woods. I have built and sailed 2 full sized sailboats and recently gave away the last one Maria. I have watched with great admiration the likes of Luke Powell build beautiful cutters. Perhaps in another life. I was just thinking about why I do the work that I do this morning as I woke up, and I must say that there is really only one answer and that is because it makes me happy to be mucking about with ideas about how to do this or that with a bit of wood or brass or watercolour paint. Having the time to think about these things is a luxury that I know is not accessible to many, and that bothers me. One of the joys of this forum for me is being able to watch and follow along many of the builds both simple and complex that are presented here. I read a comment about life from an author of a new book this morning "Use Less Share More" It sums up for me many of the things that I follow on this forum. Yesterday when I showed the beautiful curved lines in a bit of crab apple pruning gives me as much pleasure as spending an Hour being awe struck by the beauty and complexity of Doris's Royal Katherine made of paper and card. or GB's little fishing vessel . I learn from each. It is such a wonderful journey this learning thing. So if you had told me in 1976 that I would be using bits of this 2 foot log of maple in a model of a sailboat that I had would be working on for 8 or more years, I would have said, hmmmm...interesting, where is your crystal ball? Off now to fiddle with a few bits of maple. Michael
- 2,196 replies
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Hello Gus, I am not really in a position to advise on a kit choice because I am not a kit builder. I would agree with the comments by Keith though, one builds confidence and skill incrementally, so starting with less complex and less expensive outlay of materials will give you the ability to begin the process with less costs in time and finances. Michael
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Thanks for all the likes and looks. Just a small update regarding the design of the steps The bottom set will be removable and held with a couple of simple latches, the upper set will have the middle two steps attached to the panel which is an access to the space under the cockpit and aft of the hull. Still working out the quarter berths. Michael
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The article details some interesting methods for the creation of the model by Christopher Morrison, some of the details at 1/32nd scale of a 21 foot boat on page 222 there is a footnote that mentions that George Daniels book Watchmaking is one of the three most important modelmaking books he has ever read, I concur with that assessment, I was given a copy of this book for my 50th birthday in 1998 George makes the art of metalwork sound as easy as snapping lego bricks together. The book is a treasure trove of techniques and is full of wonderful drawings illustrating these techniques. One of the interesting things that Christopher Morrison points out in the description of Gill Smiths boats is that he used sawn natural crook frames from Oak. Planking of Cedar, deck planking of Pine ,Cedar , or Cypress. I have three types of trees in my backyard Crab-apple, Amur Maple, and Bur Oak. I keep all the pruning pieces and save some for modelwork and some for the occasional evening sit by the fire pit in the late summer evenings. here is a lovely piece of apple that I cut 1/2 inch thick and stickered after a major limb was pruned a few years ago. first the rough bandsawn side Hand planing the surface. and a close up of the smooth surface, so for a naturally curved beam. The piece is about 13 inches long. There was a replica of Pauline made called Anitra in 1988, I am hoping that there were photographs taken of the build. Michael Michael
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An update, I heard back from the Mystic Seaport museum and they can send me 6 prints of Pauline which include all the ones that Daria Elizabeth Merwin used in her thesis. So I am looking forward to receiving them. It will be fun setting them up to do the lofting for the frames, I will use the old drafting table instead of Cad. And if anyone is in the area and willing to take any photo graphs that would be Stirling! Michael
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Welcome from the west side of Canada, you will find lots of great help and advice from the members here. Michael
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Thanks for the kind words. working on the access to the interior, the companionway steps are going to be set up differently that I had originally planned. I am now using a few scraps of some different figured maple, instead of the mahogany ones. The treads are from an off-cut of fiddle-back figured maple and the sidewalls from the old maple log. I rather like the soft curve on the steps into integrity and so have used the same motif. The rear wall of the cabin will be fixed and will act as an anchor for the components of the kitchen area and the new steps, Only the bottom 3 panels and the long cross beam are glued in at the moment, because I am still making design decisions at the moment for the upper section of the steps. The floor hooks under the wall at the stern end. This is fiddly work! I don't know how you folks who build the large 3 mast ships with all the cannon stuff and hardware do it. If I drop something it is pretty easy to fish it out. So kudos to you all who build all the deck beams and hanging knees etc, I think they would be carrying me out in a straight jacket. Michael
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I had to look that one up Druxey, reminds me of a quote my mum used to say..."There's a difference between scratch your A#$ and tearing it!" LoL Michael
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