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michael mott

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Everything posted by michael mott

  1. Thank you Greg, Druxey and Roger for you comments and patience. Cleaned up some space, model is off the shelf, a bit of dusting is in order than an hour or so catching up in my head. Michael
  2. It has been a while but after chatting with Druxey yesterday I am thinking that I might have to do some work on this model. One of my problems is with such a long interval between the last work on both the engine and the hull and my ham fisted approaches to model boat building at time mostly because I am not primarily a model boat builder but more a generalist. Each discipline has all sorts of methods and procedures that are time honored, and not knowing or understanding many of these is one of my reasons for shifting to a different type of model when some challenges rear up. I feel a bit like a coward sometimes and put off the needed work to solve the challenge. Eventually I come to the realization that the best way forward it to jump in with both feet. I have just reread this build to bring myself back up to speed with what I was doing and what I was thinking. It does not change the challenges though. So where to go today.... a coffee and breakfast first, then bring the hull back down off the top shelf and decide on the next move. Michael
  3. Druxey, thanks for directing me to your build during our chat this afternoon. The planking at .015"thick really is a wonderful bit of modelbuilding. I think I wore out the like button on my laptop this evening. you have given me a number of clues for proceeding on my model of Skipjack, and I am going to switch wood for the frames. The photographs really give the impression that this is a much larger model that it is, and having seen it in your hands puts it all into perspective. now that I am caught up I can follow along, with your beautiful work and tutorial. Michael
  4. Just catching up, I have to agree with all the previous comments about what a fantastic job you are doing on this model. The rigging certainly does look like a herculean job and not for the feint of heart, well done! Michael
  5. Hi Keith doing a bit of catching up myself. As much as I enjoy the pictures of the amazing brass-work, I also like the drawings and the way you sort out how to make these tiny pieces on paper with a pencil. Michael
  6. Lovely work so far Maury, nice work with the chisel. Druxey is right properly sharp chisels, in fact any cutting tools are a joy to use. Looks like a nice project to follow along. Michael
  7. Very nice Keith, sometimes it is easy to forget how small a lot of these details are, because you have executed them so well. Michael
  8. Thank you Craig for your kindness in thinking of me. What a lovely image, looks like it might be starting to liven up a bit judging by the water. Michael
  9. Looks like a nice day for a sail Michael. I have to say that I miss sailing the full size models, I am hoping that I get invited out for a sail this summer at the lake that I used to live at. Michael
  10. I found this to be an enjoyable read, lots of pictures of a modern take on a classic design. Michael
  11. Just finished going through the entire build what a great looking model, I smiled at the school of fish on the deck. Good job you got then into the hold on ice before they started smelling. A love the details and the clean workmanship inside the cabin. Michael
  12. A lovely job Steve she is looking very sharp indeed, I'm sure your daughter is watching in spirit and enjoying the progress as much as we are. Michael
  13. Hi Moab I have done a little sketch If you drill a hole in a block of hard wood for the copper to slide in and use a saw and or file to cut a couple of cuts across so that the slots act as guides for the file then clamp the lot to a bench so that they stay in relative position to each other, turn on the dremel to the slowest speed and the file into the slot and file a little then blow out the filing or add an extra hole under the area that is being filed so the filings can drop out.. The dremel was purchased in 1977 ish I can fit a flex shaft to it as well which i purchased at the same time. I hope this helps Michael
  14. Hello Moab I used a Stubbs Olympic #2 flat file with the wide sides ground off I spotted this set on ebay I would say that the #2 cut will do the job but you will need to get the sides of the file safe by removing the teeth to get the sharp edge. Obviously this is going to change the file for anything but the narrow edge cut. Michael
  15. Hi Moab I am wondering about the file that you used I thought I would try what you did and chucked up a bit of 1/16 copper rod in an old dremel I have and used an old flat needle file that I had ground off the side teeth so that only the edge teeth cut, the tricky part was keeping the file steady, I ran it at the lowest speed on the switch Then I cleaned the ends off with some flush cut side cutters My that is a tiny piece. I think the file might be the suspect. I hope this helps. Michael
  16. I'm stuck on the next steps with this build, there are a few things that I still am not sure about how to proceed. Michael
  17. Hi Greg, No the cutter is so "present" in the workshop, I just needed a little break I really want to get the cutter finished before I do any building on the Gill Smith boat. A few days of gentle drawing were in order. Michael
  18. Just 2 more buttock lines, and then the diagonals and body plan all the waterlines were close but a couple differed a bit aft the end of the keel. I suppose I will be able to cross reference them once the body plan is done. That's it for today. Michael
  19. A nice looking vice Richard, I'm guessing the moving jaw is also a slide fit on the base. Michael
  20. Thanks for the comments and interest. I had to make a start today....sort of like playing with a new toy. first the raw material I taped the lines drawing to the drawing board as a rough guide, and chose some Albalene drawing paper and set it over the drawing. next the baseline and the station lines, and diagonals were drawn according to the stated dimensions, using the table of offsets working out from the center line. Beginning with the sheer line, and marking off on the station lines I used a stick of clear pine 1/8th square as the stick for the ducks. These are slabs of 2" diameter steel with some shelf liner double sided taped to the underside to stop them sliding with some 1/16th steel rod shaped and pointed to grab the stick. As is clear the drawing is close but not as accurate as my line marked off from the table of offsets. The diagonals are off a bit on the print as well, of course this is all due most likely to the printing and paper stretch all the usual suspects. I am using a 4H for these lines, the trick being to keep the pencil sharp. This is so enjoyable, nice instrumental lute music playing in the background, a great way to spend the Saturday afternoon. Once the lines are drawn I will be able to plot the frames. Michael Michael
  21. Yes, being George Daniels student back in the day would have been a brilliant career choice methinks. Michael
  22. Thanks Tom, I will email my contact at the museum for permission to get a copy for my own use to build the model. Michael
  23. It was like an early birthday gift! The six drawings arrived today I opted to let them be folded because of the difference in the postage costs, as it was they cost $27 postal fees. Although the drawing state that they cannot be reproduced, I think that the obligatory picture of the plan chest drawer that they are now safely nestled in wont be infringing any rules. So with the table of offsets and the drawings as a guide I will be able to prepare a set of model building plans including the sawn oak frames. Still lots of preparatory work yet though. Today I am a happy camper. Michael
  24. A thread full of opinions for sure!..... I couldn't resist, its been one of those days.🙂 Michael
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