michael mott

I just deleted the reference to the ship model, after I called the contact at the Edmonton public library. They were told that the model is only worth $800. I think it is worth more this one is the same as the one I restored. https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/19192/lot/2101/ Michael

Hi Keith, catching up again, Stunning work on the anchors! Always a pleasure to see the clever ways that you break down complex parts into smaller pieces for fabrication. I noticed the lighting under the rails Are you going to incorporate any.....I couldn't resist. Again it is a joy to follow along with your work. Michael

Tim Thank you for your kind words. I have been down a few rabbit holes the past year, I can see the sky is appearing again. I moved the cutter back out into the middle of the workshop that other day, in order to get to the drawing board which was folded up against the wall. There are still quite a few days left before I can get out to the garden, and I am feeling the urge to get back to work on the cutter. Regarding Underhill's quote...Yes I have never had a problem with starting over on an aspect of the work, after learning that it might be better to do it again to to improve it. I have a feeling that I am going to be rearranging things out in the shop again today. Happy New and Healthy year to everyone. One last thing I have been visiting the Model Ship Society of New Jersey on their Zoom meetings and have enjoyed the visits and seeing their work and presentations. So thanks to Bill Brown for the invites. Michael

Hi Rob just catching up. Looks like you have your work cut out for you now. What a great experience to have the time to meet and discuss your project with the author of books about your subject model. Michael

Apologies submitted I missed the email situation. Thanks for the reminder, It won't happen again. Michael

Backyard has been like this for a couple of weeks now. Most likely stay this way till the end of march with a steady increase until after the equinox when it will begin to recede again. Michael

Tim, the new model shop looks fantastic, love the old wooden drafting table in the corner as well. Michael

Catching up Keith, lovely work on the life rafts and cradles. as others have said lots of lessons in this build log. I'm guessing you could easily put a book together. I think there would be a fair number of folk who would purchase one......just sayin' Michael

Further to this discussion, I too cut my own planks and can because I have a large tablesaw and a large bandsaw. Cutting wood from the large sizes that Bill in Idaho mentions uses up as much of the wood cutting the sheets as the sheets themselves. Using thin blades on large saws gets a bit tricky and is limited by the diameters of the blade on tablesaws not so with bandsaws but with bandsaws you have to have one surface smooth so a jointer planer is needed to accomplish that, then after the wood has been sliced off on the bandsaw it needs to be finished on the cut side by running through a thickness sander. The wood would be too thin to run through any sort of thickness planer. With wood that is in rough plank form say nominally 2" (it is less than that even if rough) in order to get accurate planks the rough plank needs at least the face (wide side) and one edge planed flat and square before it can be processed on the larger saws. The 10 inch delta unisaw table saw that I use has 0 clearance inserts and the hollow ground thin kerf blades are only 8 inch diameter I cannot use these blades on the 2 inch planks I have to use a regular tin carbide blade which is thicker than the planks by double, but is gives a fairly fine finish right off the saw. So now I have a small sheet that is say 16th thick by 1 5/8" now in order to convert that to 1/16th x 1/32 planks I either need a micro saw with the fine slitting saw blades .010 to .025" type thicknesses for the blades, or I can use the table saw I have with my 8 inch hollow ground thin kerf blade and slice off the the 1/32 planks from it indexing the blade over as each plank comes off.and for each 1/32 plank I have used up at least 3/32nds worth of wood. All that said one can see why it is not profitable at even the bare minimum of wages to mass produce wood planks on a small scale for a limited market. without having some very sophisticated and expensive processing machinery. On top of all that exotic woods are becoming harder to get anyway, as it gets used up by ever more users for various industries. I hope that this rather long winded comment gives those who cannot process their own model supplies some of the challenges facing those who do supply these materials for us. Michael

What a kind offer bill. That is what I really enjoy about this community, the help and sharing that happens. Michael

A jury rigged giant rotary table! Clever. Michael

Here you go a simple little mortise lock that could be made from styrene and or brass overall dimensions are .378" wide .5" high .125" thick This lock has no springs and is showing the basic design principles I have made locks using this basic design for a small box I have the drawing in Autocad 2000 and corel draw 11 There is a slot for the handle which is the blue bar at the top. the key is the old cabinet type that slides over a pin so the end with the tube is hollow. the jpeg is full size Michael

Well I thought I would add my two cents worth to this discussion. I have done a great deal of scribing over the years on many types of plastic the back side of an exacto blade work very well. I have even used a set of blades laminated together with AC glue on one Architectural model to represent a brick infill on a concrete spandrel at 1-200 scale, I think there were 12 blades and the material was plexiglass. The back of the blade can be dressed easily on a bit of 400 grit wet and dry. I agree with the earlier comments about visibility of wood grain etc at viewing distances. A hint of texture can work well if not overdone, but again it does depend on the scale. I remember taking a Heller Victory and sand off virtually all of the hull planking so that it was almost not there. Michael

I go away for a few weeks and come back to more incredible workmanship. The parting off of those porthole rings must have been a tad nerve wracking with a very slow feed in. the shots of the interior with the computer screens etc. are a joy to behold. Lovely work Sir! Michael

Hi Roger this one has peaked my interest as well, I shall follow along. Michael

Hi Keith good to know I am not the only one doing some of the household tasks. I shall have to give the Modelwork on my stuff that is nautical a one day a week try! sounds like it might get my Mojo back up and running on the cutter. Your own work is of course exemplary and a great build to follow. I do enjoy seeing how you solve construction challenges. Michael

Good morning Eberhard and MSW friends, Judy and I are safe and well, we are focusing on our home and garden, I gave away the big sailboat Maria to the chap I originally got it from. I am not inclined to spend 3 hours driving for 1/2 a days sailing, plus all the expenses involved with yacht club and mooring fees. The Cutter is right next to my model bench and in my face as they say so not far from my thoughts. My Mojo for working on it will rise again over the winter i am sure. I have been focusing on some old model train projects and trying to finish some of them up. Regards Michael

Very nice, watching the video was very informative and a great learning experience. A lovely piece of work. Michael

Congratulations on a fine model Kevin. Michael

Gary I had the same impression, I am amazed at the small size of the detail work that you have put into this model, superb work all round. Michael

Hi Egilman, yes the strap bolts were flattened in the vice they needed 4 annealings to get to the correct width. I created a small jig using some tool steel blanks as in the next picture. The bottom piece if steel has a piece of shimstock to create a slide fit for the top piece of tool steel that gets hit with a hammer using a piece of brass between the steel and hammer. The edge next to the bolt section has a small radius on the top anvil (tool steel) Michael

Thanks Ron, I ended up finishing the points or switch as some call them. I am progressing on the wagon ironwork. All the axleguards are now cut. next was to get the strapbolts made . Then the next piece of metalwork is the headstock and sole Knees These plates are part of the whole buffer and strengthening of the frame Now that I have a prototype I can set up to make the four needed. The strapbolts are turned from 1/8th brass rod with the bolt part being .060" and threaded 0x80 and the section that gets flattened is turned to .095" this eventually becomes .140" wide by approx .040". and the knees are .040" copper they have been blackened in some Jax Blackener. Michael

Hello Walter, lovely work on the carving of your hull the deck details look very sharp. I will continue to follow along. Michael

Now having finished the next few posts, all I can ad is to repeat what others have said that this is a wonderful example of the Art of model-making in all its guises. Michael

Gary this seem to affect all of us at some time or another. The model is looking superb. Michael