michael mott
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Everything posted by michael mott
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Now I know why Kitchen reno's and rebuilds are so expensive. Time for a coffee break, My arms ache from all that handsawing. Michael
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I started my new vocation today after visiting this build log Seriously the log of the Young America by bitao7697 is stunning. I worked on the handle design for the port side cupboard had a few trials to come close to what I was after. I will start the kitchen area tomorrow once I put the needles down. Michael
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I just found your build log and am virtually speechless. It is always humbling to see the highest level of workmanship exhibited so well. Your tooling is outstanding, The precision that you are achieving with your joinery is enviable. On top of that you must have the best vacuum system in the world. What a joy to see your work, I will be following along as I take up knitting! with respect Michael
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Thanks for the link Pat very interesting. Michael
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Hello Kevin interesting to follow along with some of the tricks and tips of how you gauge things. It looks like your new bench is fitting in well. Michael
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Thank you all for your generosity now I have to come clean Here is the step by step the pictures should speak for themselves. the basic body from some free machining 1/4 inch brass rod. Next the pull rings are formed basic components ready to set up the tab on the pull ring A 1/8th chainsaw file was used to create the hollow I love using my third hand After removing them from the end of the bar with the jewelers saw they were filed flat . The slot in the body was filed with a #4 The lift ring was placed to finalize the shape I spent a few hours trying to set up a pin in the bottom side of the lift ring but failed to make it an actual operating pull and given that the floor boards would not be able to be lifted anyway I shall stick with them looking like they would work. ......Now if I had gone into watchmaking as I had originally thought I would when I was 15 years old perhaps they would be fully operational. The design shows no screws because in world of my imagination the body of the pull penetrates the board and a flange is screwed onto the bottom side giving a much stronger connection and leaving a cleaner looking top surface. That's my story an' I'm sticking to it. Regards michael
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Well that was a lot tougher than I thought it would be. I did not take any step by steps on this because I was fiddling about trying to make different bits so will do that for the next one. This set up failed, too much of a heat sink This worked a lot better. I used a jewelers saw to remove the soldered piece then cleaned it up. here is the unit set into the floor on the port side with the ring raised and the proverbial pencil for scale Now for a break. Michael
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Wow! your dedication to the memory of your daughter is very moving! I am guessing that you are not doing much else, not even sleep even looking at the speed with which you are building this ship. Lovely work and for a wonderful cause. Michael
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Probably speaking out of the top of my hat here.... But would it not be possible to make a cradle that you can hold the hull in and be able to revolve it and lock it into position for various operations. The model engineers do it for working on the underside of model locomotives, The automotive industry does it for building cars. Beautiful work on the metal parts Mark. Michael
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An interesting build I am very interested in how your framing and planking will turn out. Michael
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Hi Dennis, just catching up with whats been happening in your shipyard, looks like you are keeping busy, and I thought I had a lot of projects on the go. Glad to hear you and family are safe and getting a Covid shot, might be a while before I can get mine, so it goes. Happy new year to you and Phyllis. Michael
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Hi Tom Here are a couple of pics of some 1/8th wide by .6mm maple strips glued up into a fairly tight curve with some carpenters glue wrapped on a bit of 1/32 brass strip for the former. When it has dried I will do some shaping. Obviously different woods are more or less able to bend through tight curves. I wet the strips first with some water. I have just used 5 strips which equal 3mm or approx 1/8th inch . Michael
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Steve that looks very nice, definitely start a build log so we can follow along Cat boats have very nice lines and rigs. Michael
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Hi Keith, looking at the stanchions will you be changing the thickened portions to the bulbous shapes after you have drilled the cross holes?. Stanchions are a b@%%er to make. I remember what a difficult task it was on the Albertic. Nice work on the cowl Michael
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Wow! Such great feedback, So I spent today doing some remedial work, Covered off the two big issues. The picture shows the seats set against a narrower lip with a cleat underneath to ensure the cushion doesn't slide off the platform. Some demarcation of the floor boards that can be lifted with some graphic representation of the flush lifting rings, These will be 2 inch ones (1/4") . These will be easy to spin up out of some 1/4 diameter brass. Michael
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Hi Tom tomorrow I will show a little experiment. Michael
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Hi Tom The cockpit is coming along nicely. A long time ago (40 years at least) I needed to make a bent wood seat for a model of the bleriot monoplane. I tried soaking and bending bamboo and a variety of other woods but they kept breaking. Then I thought that if I could bend a strip of metal into the basic shaped a piece of 1/4 inch by 1/16 stainless I had on had did the job. The logic was that if I could bend the metal then a strip of thin veneer would bend as well. I used some birch veneer, and laminated about a dozen layers wrapping each one with a liberal coat of white glue. I let the lot sit for a week to cure. I slipped the laminated wood off the metal and then sanded it to a round cross section. Sorry I dont have any pictures of the bent piece when I was gluing it up but the results were better than I expected The veneers took on the appearance of the grain of the wood as if it were actually a bent piece of round. The caning was woven with a small needle it was made from strips of a beige Bally's plastic shoe bag. sort of like miniature raffia, I had to start over twice before I got the pattern correct. I am sure that you could bend a bit of flat brass to the curve you need and then lay up some very thin veneers of mahogany or what ever wood you need to create a corner piece. The straight pieces of corner round can be shaped on the edge of a wider strip then sliced off with the micro saw or a jewelers saw. Michael
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Hi Bob Thanks for your comments Please whenever something that I make seems to be in error of simply flat out wrong let me know. Having sailed in a small boat I know just how important it is to be able to clean out those deep difficult to reach places. As you know I have been using Stirling and Sons yacht "Integrity" for inspiration. The interior is so well fitted that it completely missed my attention that of course access to the bilges would have been accounted for. They just did such a good job of being subtle about it that it slipped to the back of the deep recess of my brain. These few pictures from the web a few years ago that were used in a sales pitch by a yacht broker show what I mean, I have searched for the attribution for them but cannot find it so if there is a problem with them let me know and I will remove them. Fortunately because all the interior components of my interior can be removed so that I can add the 100 lbs of lead when it finally goes for a free sail. I will make some changes to the whole floor so as to make it look as if the floor has some loose planks. But for the integrity of making the cabin interior relatively easy to assemble and hold together inside I will keep it as a single piece. Again Bob don't hesitate to give me critical insights and information to enable me to learn and improve things. This cut was just freehand with the jewelers saw, I had to come from both ends because the throat of the saw was not deep enough, I followed a pencil line. Michael
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Here is the new floor. step one was to re-saw the piece of fir into some 4 inch planks Next the wood was set up so the the grain was flipped end for end to create the opposite cupping like this the planks were glued up in pairs first Then the six pairs were glued up in pairs again Then the three pieces were glued together and given a final clean up with the bench plane and shaped to fit into the hull. After the fitting it was taken back to the bench to finish fitting the seat platforms with the maple edge. The seat edge was cut from a lovely piece of fiddle back figured maple and I only had a small piece, so I used the jewelers saw to split it down the middle. Before gluing the piece to the seat bottom I put a small chamfer on the bottom edge the top was done after it had been glued to the bottom, this gave it the rigidity and stability. The floor was given a couple of coats of Teak oil and now to finish the port side back panels Michael
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Pat, Rob, and Eberhard, Thanks for you comments and condolences. All the cushions are done now they just need the paint on the buttons. I am also in the process of remaking the floor of the cabin because it has cupped across its width. I also made it narrow enough to lift straight up out of the opening on the deck. I needed to add a little bit to the width of the floor in order to set the vertical panels properly. So instead of incremental fixes I am making a whole new floor which is actually easier . This will also take care of the slot that needed to be filled. I had a piece of nice close grained Clear fir which is the same material that the deck is made of, so have chosen to use it. Michael
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That is very nice, it add a detail that is sometimes overlooked, and now you will be able to explain what the black canvas looking part is for. Well done! Michael
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Again thanks to you for all your kindness. Today I was able to get back to doing a little work. I feel like my apprenticeship in the upholstery department has moved me forward enough to make the final set of cushions The first picture shows the production of the seats, with all the learning steps piled up in the background. The fabric was marked and punched for the pins and then that will be done all at the same time. I used a steel plate to initially act as a stop for the pins then set up a 1/16th set of spacers to set the pins a little lower. after that the pins were snipped off the backside and then reset to dull the snipped ends and to ensure that all were the same depth. The starboard side cushions are ready for the coloring, the port cushions will be pinned tomorrow. Michael
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Thank you all for your very thoughtful condolences, it helps soften the pain that welled up yesterday, even though we new her time was drawing to a close. here a couple of picture from earlier in September 2019 and March 2020 To the moderators, I know this is a build log so thank you for your compassion, Had I had my wits about me I would have posted the earlier picture in the Shore leave, so thank you. Michael
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