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Everything posted by CDW
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Wow, beautiful models. No, I have never bought anything from them, but maybe I will after looking at their products.
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This will be my place holder for when I begin my build for the early 1960's vintage 1:96 Revell Kearsarge. The kit box has seen the ravages of time and is collapsed. However, I am fortunate the contents are still sealed in the original plastic bags intact. There are several things noteworthy about this particular model... **the first thing that catches my eye is how much better the plastic parts look when I compare them with more modern releases of other 1:96 Revell ship kits. It shows how good those molds were when they first came out. **the parts are molded in multiple colors of plastic **the hull halves came pre painted/copper clad from Revell **note how straight the hull halves are. when dry fitted, it's a much more perfect fit than modern releases of similar Revell ship models. requires little - no pressure at all for the halves to fit tightly together. My kit instructions were never in the kit (when I first received it). I will have to rely on the CSS Alabama instructions to some degree to determine what goes where if that is possible. Anyway, I promised some fellows pictures of the Revell USS Kearsarge kit, and here they are.
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No Longer Available 1:350 Hasegawa IJN Akagi Aircraft Carrier Set This set includes the following: 1:350 Hasegawa IJN Akagi Aircraft Carrier Kit number 40025 1:350 Hasegawa Carrier Based Aircraft Set 72130 1:350 Hasegawa Detail Up Parts 40071 1:350 Hasegawa Wooden Deck Set 72125 1:350 Hasegawa Etch Parts C 72128 1:350 Hasegawa Etch parts A 72126 Shipping box size is: 33" x 12" x 7" - Shipping Weight is: 9 lbs.
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I have collected more model ship kits than it's reasonable to assume I will build anytime in the near or semi-distant future. Instead of putting these on Ebay, I wanted to offer them here first at a discounted price so my fellow MSW forumites might enjoy them and perhaps even do a build thread for us to see. 😎 I prefer to be paid by Paypal. I will provide the dimensions and weight of each package so you can calculate the USPS cost (on their website) for shipping, or alternatively, advise me if you are considering a purchase and I will calculate the postage cost for you. My shipping location is zip code 33614, in the USA. I am afraid with the size of the boxes, international shipping will be cost prohibitive. Contact me through PM if you are interested in any of these and I will provide my email information for further discussion or Paypal purposes.
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Mighty nice of you to go through the effort to post this article for all of us sea urchins...Thanks Jonathan!
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right click on each image, then 'save as', then save in a folder of your choice. Easy peasy
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Currently, the 1988 version is what I have for the Alabama. I had the 2006 version also, but gave it to a friend. My Kearsarge is of that early, 1960 vintage. I just saw that kit in my stash (giant pile in reality) and will carefully fish it out and photograph it. The box is in shreds almost.
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In every modeler's (particularly plastic modelers) tool stash, you need a set of sandpaper similar to these: https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/waterproof-finishing-kit-ultra-fine/FLX00000110/product.php?s=4-3&t=2-2&u=2-2 You need to have an assortment of "grit" papers that far exceeds that of Home Improvement store variety. The finer grit paper, 600 and finer, are exceptionally well suited for polishing up a rough primer finish. On most of my models, primer coats are always polished with sandpaper, usually 1000 grit or finer, before applying color coats. It's just a standard practice. You can also use Tamiya sanding sponges which come in the similar fine grit, but the idea is not to attack, but polish.
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In the future, you might want to try Tamiya's bottled lacquer primer, reduced down with their lacquer thinner, through your airbrush. It's the same excellent primer found in their rattle cans, but it sells for less than $4 per bottle, so it's very economical. Besides that, it's just about the best primer I have found, period. It comes in either white or gray. Being it's a lacquer, it's safe under any type of paint you may decide to use on top of it as a top coat. And what you said about Tamiya top coats being so very reliable, I agree 100%. Can't find a nicer acrylic to use than Tamiya IMHO. If you search the net, you can find the mix ratio's for just about any color you want to mix for Tamiya paints. But you're right, it would be a lot more convenient if they carried a broader range of pre mixed colors.
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Hang in there OC. We are all pulling for you. Sometimes, just when it seems like we're going through our darkest hours, good things happen that chases the blues away. Here's a little something to give you a good laugh...
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Using some scrap pieces of PE, I'll bet you can quickly make a couple of replacement posts for those. Lots of times, there are "sprue" pieces left over that are the correct/close to correct width you need. And on the bright side, can you imagine having to do all this photo etch from scratch? There are actually unicorn modelers who do this. I should add...what you've done tonight looks great!
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You are going to be forced to sand this a little. I don't know any way around it. Get some scrap styrene plastic and play around with your air pressure and paint viscosity to find the sweet spot. This definitely was drying from your airbrush before it hit the model.
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Generally, a rough finish as you described is a result of the paint drying too fast just as you said, or also can happen when holding the airbrush too far away from the surface being painted. I hate using new paints on a good model. Always test on a practice piece first. I've learned this lesson the hard way.
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