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CDW
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Thanks OC. I'm a little on the fence right now over whether I like it or not. Maybe once I apply the markings and assemble the other differently painted parts it will grow on me a bit. The one scheme provided in the markings for this aircraft that I liked the most required far too much masking at very specific spacing intervals. I was concerned I would screw that scheme up for sure and didn't attempt it. With this fuselage being cigar shaped like it is, it makes for a tough masking job. -
Here's my feeble attempt at that field applied mottle camo. Heck, it's got to be close to right...I even used a loofa sponge to apply it. 🙂 I need to apply the remainder of the chrome yellow cowl ring to the engine panels.
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Thanks for stopping by, Denis. With this being an early D.V, there's really no wrong way to model it as far as the extra strut is concerned. Unless the pilot died prior to the introduction of the strut modification, it could be done either way and still be okay.
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Earlier when you asked this question, I mistakenly answered, negative. Upon painting operations and a closer examination of the parts trees, I realized today the kit does indeed offer two different sets of wing struts. One set without the small strut, and one set with the small strut, giving the builder the option to include it or not.
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I settled in on modeling the aircraft of Ottomar Hagenmuller, MFJ 1, late 1917. Hagenmuller was killed in action December 5, 1917. The fuselage is overall, doped plywood. Accent colors are a chrome yellow rudder, nose band, and wheels. The plywood fuselage had a field applied "loofa sponge" mottled green camouflage. I will be experimenting with a technique to capture (hopefully) the look of the loofa mottle green camo.
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Very nice. She is very much looking the part of the infamous scourge of the seas, the Black Pearl.
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The work you've done to open the vents on the hull looks great so far. Photo etch is very nice as well.
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Remember the Ardun heads they made for Ford flathead v-8's? (picture courtesy of Hot Rod Network)
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I have seen some extraordinary straight six cylinder engines at the drags. Hemi's have always been a beast of a motor. Heavy as heck compared to others, and always expensive. They never have been an "average" racer's engine, but they darn sure can make some horsepower. Speaking of straight sixes, an old fella I worked with was a round 'n round stock car racer from way back. Their motors were all straight sixes on the dirt, clay, and asphalt short tracks. Darned things ran great, too. He said the secret to building a great six cylinder race engine was to build them "loose". A tight fitting engine was a kiss of death. They would not last, blow up. They sure were fun to watch, but I never had the pleasure of driving/racing one myself. Always wanted to, just never got a round tuit. Takes a lot of hard work and money to keep a race car going through a season of racing.
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Base of flat black then dry brush Mr Color brass.
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Love that old flatty. Reminds me of my old high school friend who had a '51 Ford with a flathead V-8. Those were surprisingly strong engines in their time. His Ford would falt out smoke my old '51 Chevy with it's 6 cyl. engine
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Awesome! In my stash, I have the old Sterling kit of the Fokker D.VII in balsa, an RC model, 60" wingspan. It's so old, the vac-u-form plastic has almost disintegrated. It's nothing but a cracked, falling apart, mess. If I ever build the kit, I will certainly need to scratch all the pieces the plastic was intended to represent. I didn't realize until now that particular aircraft as pictured was Udet's plane. Always loved those markings.
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Actually, the decal sheets that come in the box with Wingnut Wings kits are awesome. They are Cartograph decals, made in Italy. Each kit offers a number of different markings for the builder to choose from. This kit has 5 options.
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Final pictures tonight. Incomplete, but a dry fit of the engine compartment with engine inside. This model will finish fairly quickly once the internal details are finished. Rigging may take a little time. I love the colorful finishes of WW1 aircraft.
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I am sorry to say, but a complete deal, extractions and dentures, would run around $3000 and up depending on the number of teeth that needed extraction and the quality of the denture appliances. Sometimes, there are dental clinics, even dental colleges, who offer discount prices. It requires a specialty to sedate the patient. A standard dentist cannot do it. That's one reason it's so much more expensive.
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I thought that may be the acronym as well. Around here, a pulled tooth will set you back $200 and up depending on the complications and the dentist. Sedation dentistry costs a lot more.
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I agree Denis. The Revell line of WW1 aircraft were beautiful. I built the Spad, the DR1, and the Camel long ago. I remember when they came out in the late 60's and built mine then. The D.VII came out way later, so I missed that one. It came out in a period of time when I wasn't buying and building. I often wondered why Revell chose to model these in 1:28 scale rather than the more popular scales of 1:32 or 1:24.
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Beautiful aircraft. Was that strut added in the field? Looks like it would be easy enough to model by adding it from scratch.
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Denis Man, those Albatros decal sheets are awesome! It's hard not to love WW1 aircraft for their colorful markings. Your 1:28 Fokker is not an easy kit to find any more. I think the last time I saw that kit available was around the millennium. Maybe RoG has re released it since then?
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The colors used are call outs found in the instructions. The instruction booklet contains quite a few detailed photos of each of the subject sections of the aircraft. Unfortunately the photos are old WW1 black and white, not color.
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Hi Vossie Thanks for stopping by and sharing your Albatros knowledge with me. I looked for the extra strut in the kit, but none is supplied. The kit provides marking choices for 5 different aircraft: Eduard Ritter Schleich, Jasta 21, Sept. 1917; Ottomar Hagenmuller MFJ 1, late 1917; Otto Kissenberth, Jasts 16b, mid 1917; Fritz Rumey, Jasta 5, March 1917; Ernest Udet, Jasta 37, mid 1917. Right now, I am inclined to choose the Rumey version if for no other reason, I like the colorful markings and paint.
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Thanks OC and JCT, for your support. Just to give an idea of the fit of this kit, here are some photos that show the dry fit of the fuselage halves with the inner bulkheads inside. Once a little thin Tamiya cement is applied to the seam line, the joint will virtually disappear. A very well engineered kit. With all the inner bulkheads, it's a testament to the company's attention to detail for this to fit that well.
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Very sorry to hear that you've been in pain. Hope you get to a dentist and get that problem/s taken care of. They won't get better all by themselves. Untreated, more serious problems can develop.
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Work went slower than I wanted to do the cockpit area, but it was fun and again, a learning experience. While the parts for these Wingnut Wings models are beautifully molded, they are (some) very small and easily broken if handled too heavy. I broke several pieces along the way. At the forward bulkhead, you'll see the gun magazines in aluminum paint, and a fuel tank in brass paint. Added details not included in the kit are switch levers on the instrument panels made from soft fine brass wire; a bulkhead cover on the aft bulkhead made from paper to simulate a canvas cover on the real plane, fuel lines on the fuel tank made from soft brass wire; control cables made from ez line for the control stick to the control surfaces. Next is the engine bay. v
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