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CDW
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Everything posted by CDW
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After the basic airframe, attention gets focused on the fuselage skins. Unfortunately, I quickly began to realize there were fit problems. At first, I wondered if it was something I had done or failed to do in earlier stages of construction, but couldn't find anything. Then I began to look for obvious issues such as flash or other irregularities with the plastic molding and could find none. Last, I started searching for build reviews of the kit online. There is not much out there, but with the few I found, other modelers ran into the same issues I am facing so it is recognized as an engineering failure with the kit. it's likely the prime reason one does not find many finished kits of the model finished on the net. The major fit issue I am seeing at this time is the fit of the upper gun cover to the lower fuselage. Other modelers found the exact same issue. A very small amount of plastic needs to be added to the front gun cover to close the gap between upper and lower parts. It's not a deal breaker as far as building the model is concerned, but it is disappointing considering the cost of the kit. It should have been better engineered. It is often said but bears repeating, if you want the best engineered, best fitting plastic kit, buy Tamiya. Everything else is second place or lower. This model has some nice features, but it is going to be a pin in the rear to get it done right.
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Is this the tank you bought? https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Military_Vehicles/MGK0000TS36/product.php?gclid=Cj0KCQiAp7DiBRDdARIsABIMfoB7vm7stbu5-KYLSnMHVYcEA3ujAVlu95A4DZokwNpjVVismjWQwVEaAihxEALw_wcB
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Indeed, it looks amazing! Very well done Seymore. It's going to be fun watching your next build, whatever it is.
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Thanks for the kind words guys. As a mater of fact, I do have some sci fi items to do. Been holding onto them for way too long.
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Beginning the airframe, cockpit tub, and gun bays. Paints used: Tamiya aluminum, gloss black, gloss clear, flat clear. Mr Color IJN Green, Metal Iron, black wash
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The Revell kit of the Challenger was a nightmare for me to build back then as well. I want to try it again one day to see if it got any easier.
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Indeed, a great link. Thanks!
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Another memory... It was 1975, the Gator Nationals. Kris Karamesines (The Golden Greek) campaigned a AA Fuel Dragster that was painted in a beautiful black finish and all the parts were typically chromed or polished aluminum were gold plated. The rail got out of sorts from the start and he lost control of the car rolling over several times and parts/pieces flying everywhere. While most of the fans were concerned about Karamesines' well being, he jumped out of the wreckage and ran all over the track picking up gold plated pieces. It was pretty hilarious (and sad at the same time), and he was obviously worried about fans picking up gold plated souvenirs before he could collect them. Probably some fans did pick up gold plated souvenirs.
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That particular technique by Revell has probably caused quite a few good men to cuss. (me included)
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A little wet sanding with 2000 grit can work wonders. I'm guessing your temp inside was cool and you got a little orange peel.
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Thanks Denis. The seat belts are part of a small photo accessory etch set made by Eduard for Zoukei-Mura.
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A preview of the Shinden business office. Still more work to be done to call it finished.
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One other tip about photo etch. If you use CA, and the excess glue becomes smeared on the surrounding plastic or on top of your photo etch, use a Q Tip dampened with CA debonder to remove the excess. Only use enough debonder on the Q Tip to dampen, not saturate it. Too much obviously may cause your part to become unfastened.
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With a siphon feed airbrush, an often overlooked source of flow blockage comes when the tiny vent hole on top of the jar lid is blocked, but my first guess would be your percentage of reducer : paint is too low. In that case, the siphon is not capable of pulling the mixture through the feeder tube. I have never used Life Color paints so I don't know the viscosity you're starting with. Sometimes, even a 50 : 50 mix of paint to reducer is too low and you may have to simply increase the percentage amount of reducer until it will flow through. I am using the same bottle of Gator's Grip glue for almost three years now. Since it's water based, you'll need to keep it at/near room temperature. Over time it will thicken, just add distilled water to reduce it to the viscosity you want.
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Jack I'm late for your build thread, but enjoyed browsing through your progress. Love the subject model, so much solid history behind the Liberty Ships. Regarding your photo etch doors...I recommend trying/using acrylic glue rather than CA. 1. It allows all the time you need to adjust the position of the photo etch part and will provide a superior bond (IMHO) for flat items like doors to plastic. 2. It dries totally clear and will not mar the finish of your plastic or photo etch. 3. It's water soluble so clean up of excess glue is a breeze just using a water dampened q-tip. 4. Because it's water soluble, it's easy to remove a part if you make a mistake...even if it's dry. Gator's Grip acrylic glue works a charm for photo etch. A small bottle of it lasts a very long time, years even. Regarding your air brush issues...is yours a siphon feed or gravity feed air brush?
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This just about wraps up engine painting and construction. Maybe a few touch-ups here and there, and I'm rather certain the exhaust system will need a tweak to get them to fit the exits properly once the engine is placed inside the fuselage airframe.
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That looks amazing! Will be giving those powders a try very soon. A Z-M P-51D screams for that as a NMF.
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Thanks Richmond. I used Mr Color Metal Aluminum on the engine cylinders and crank case, with Vallejo black ink for a wash to bring out the cooling fin details. Tamiya gloss black on the intake manifold and rocker covers. I used Mr. Color Metal Iron to dry brush the black manifold and rocker covers. For most of this model (maybe all?), I will be using Mr Color Acrysion, Mr Color Metal, Tamiya paints and some Vallejo washes. Will use Pledge Floor Care as a generic acrylic gloss clear coat where necessary before washes.
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While I was wearing my Optivisor, filing away a sprue burr from a photo etch part, realized the photo etch is not stainless steel, but rather it is brass with some type of sliver colored plating or coating. Don't know what the plating is all about. Maybe to keep the brass from becoming tarnished?
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That gloss finish looks great from my view of it. If there is a flaw, I can't see it. What brand of paint are you using. Is it Testors enamel?
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That's great that Testors is making an affordable airbrush most anyone can acquire. Things like this help grow the hobby as similar items that higher priced can discourage people from even giving the hobby a try. I remember well when airbrushes seemed out of reach for me from a financial standpoint. I admired them and those that used them, but just couldn't afford and/or justify the expense to acquire one. Painted everything with a brush and rattle cans for a long time.
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Thanks for stopping by, Denis!...and for the nice comments. You didn't get the tee shirt? Well, at least you were warned to do it when the admiral and children were not in the room in view of your monitor. I was caught totally by surprise. 😎
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While Zoukei-Mura is the sole provider of this and other photo etch update sets for this model, the sets are actually produced by Eduard. As far as I can determine, there is no logical reason why Eduard chooses to use stainless steel vs: brass on their photo etch sets. I am not a fan of stainless steel photo etch for the most part, and not a fan of Eduard for that matter. The sets are way over priced for what you get as are Eduard products in general. And yes, a 90 degree bend in stainless steel is very likely to result in breakage.
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It's one of the better builds of the old Revell Constitution I have ever seen. Looks positively excellent. The addition of the various detail sets paid off in spades.
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