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CDW
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Everything posted by CDW
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That really looks nice. Only another modeler can appreciate how much work is involved in laying down that much planking. The added interior and lighting are very nice detail features. "Admiral" is definitely the correct term for a spouse graduating with their master's degree. This is her weekend. -
This old 1:350 Tamiya 1:350 King George V kit has been in my possession a long time. Maybe 20 years or more, I forget. A short while back I took it out of storage from my attic and decided I would build it. Discovering that Pontos made a conversion set to build this model as the HMS Duke of York gained my interest because I had already finished the Scharnhorst and it's in my display cabinet. As you probably know, these two ships have significant combat history against each other. In December of 1943, the HMS Duke of York along with other British ships sank the Scharnhorst off the coast of Norway. In one salvo, the DoY destroyed the front main gun turrets of the Scharnhorst and everything went downhill from there for the ill-fated German Battleship. Here's my starting shot of what I'm working with. Even as old as this kit is, it's a testament to how well Tamiya kits are engineered for good fit. I am hoping it's going to turn out to be a nice model in the end. The Pontos set comes with five nice photo etch sheets, a heavy bag of turned brass gun barrels and ship's masts, and a large number of resin parts. In addition, it brings a wooden deck and a small sheet of dry transfers.
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Hello FR I love the subject model and have been looking at them for sale on Ebay from time to time. Will follow your build log and try to learn how it all goes together. Looks like you are making swift progress and she appears to be of very sturdy construction. Great choice of a model in my opinion! Regards CDW (Craig)
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I wish the Calypso had even less to do with a plastic model...like the hull being of wood construction instead of that ABS plastic. I'm still looking at alternative construction to build the hull from wood rather than using the plastic hull.
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What an outstanding model. Flawless work.
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Old Floquil paints?
CDW replied to MEDDO's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I used a lot of Floquil paints years ago. I had probably 300 bottles of paint from years ago in storage containers not long ago, Rather than hose up some good models and clog up my air brushes, just gave them away and disposed of the rest. It was maybe wasteful of me, but mine had been subjected to some hot temps in a non-climate controlled garage and I just didn't feel like experimenting. With these new acrylics, I've gotten spoiled on how easy they are to use, not stinky, and how quickly they dry. Some of my old Floquil paints took a long time to thoroughly dry. -
Want to decide on one of these, next: 1:200 Mikasa with a Pontos detail set 1:350 Duke of York - a conversion from the Tamiya Prince of Wales using a Pontos conversion set 1:48 Billing Calypso Research Vessel 1:8 '32 Ford Roadster Street Rod (for a change of pace) 1:32 Trumpeter SU-25 Frogfoot ground attack aircraft (another change of pace) Going to decide in the next day or so.
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It's time for me to put a bow on this one and call it finished. Tonight it will go into my display case for the grandsons and other visitors to eyeball behind glass, safe from curious hands. Of course, I reserve my right to float it in the bath tub with me from time to time when necessary to run "sea trials".
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Today I made a battle flag by cutting a small piece of aluminum foil, shaping it a bit to simulate a flag flapping in the wind, then applied the Kriegsmarine battle flag decals to both sides of it before attaching it to it's mast. Rather happy with the way it came out but not so happy with trying to freehand the swastika on the flag as the Germans (Revell-Germany kit) cannot reproduce it on the decal I suppose. The aluminum foil was so delicate I had to be careful when drawing the swastika not to ruin the flag by piercing or folding it.
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I have no idea what the disk on the bow represents. I tried to find reference detail for it and came up empty. Maybe someone more knowledgeable about E-Boats can chime in and shed some light on the subject. The kit supplied some decals but somehow I have managed to misplace them. I feel certain once I begin cleaning up my work space they will show up and if not, will just have to order an after market set. Decals for a 1:72 E-Boat are few and far between as far as choice is concerned. An offering from Peddinghaus in Germany, and that's about all that I can find. I have some good flags left over from other builds that will work just fine.
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Another week and this one should be finished. I can see light at the end of the tunnel now. My aftermarket set has replacement railings for the model, in the form of photo etch stanchions and either very small diameter wire or thread. After looking it over carefully and dry fitting some of it, I thought the 2 dimensional photo etch stanchions looked out of place at this scale. They seem to look great on 1:350 scale models, but at 1:72 scale the 2 dimensional look leaves something to be desired in my judgment. So I used the kit supplied railings which are not perfect by any means but a better alternative in this case I think.
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These little paper embossing tools work fantastic for precision placement of super glue. The little ball on the end of the tool allows you to place a tiny "dot" of glue just where you want it. https://www.amazon.com/Styluses-Embossing-Pattern-Sculpting-Making/dp/B008UN6H10/ref=sr_1_4?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1494009053&sr=1-4&keywords=embossing+tools+for+paper
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Have been neglecting my pictures and working very slowly on her lately. Too many irons in the fire as the old saying goes.
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The problem with using a base on my finished ship models is that it makes it almost impossible to float it next to me when I'm in the bath tub.
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Fokker Dr.I by Torbogdan - FINISHED - Model Airways
CDW replied to Torbogdan's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Flying RC is like learning to ride a bicycle. You have some crashes at first, but then you catch on. Even after you've not flown for a number of years, it comes right back to you once you've learned the orientation and have developed some muscle memory for moving the control sticks. A great hobby, but getting harder to find proper flying sites for large flying models like I love to build. -
Wow, Mike. Bum deal. Hope you heal up soon, but I know a broken toe is going to be a real hassle to say the least.
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How much weight do you estimate the interior fiberglass added? Not that weight matters so much here, like it does on a flying model or similar. Without fiberglass and resin, a model boat might not be very seaworthy.
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Oh yeah....you need lots of ventilation for hot stuff like that. Can quickly cause some real health issues.
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Yes, I always cut and work with small pieces rather than large ones. Particularly where you are working around bulkheads like that, small pieces are less prone to having bubbles underneath. What I can see in your pictures looks like you did just fine.
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Are you taping the outside of the hull to prevent the resin from running through when you fiberglass the inside of the hull? Looks great so far. Ooops - I just now saw your comment. Didn't see it when you first posted the picture.
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I've never seen those particular airplanes available and sold separate from the Yamato or some other ship kit, like the Tone. Maybe a model shop in Japan might have them if Tamiya packages and sells them that way (separate).
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Wow, that's bad news about the plating. Nickel plating is very finicky, as I have heard from Engineers who tied to use it in commercial electronics projects. Environment has to be totally clean, almost sterile, which is very hard to do. Just fingerprints will cause it to fail. A tried and true method for a very nice chrome-like finish is to airbrush Alclad chrome paint onto a surface that is primered with a coat of black acrylic (like Tamiya) and is then totally dry, cured before the Alclad. It looks almost just like real chrome (or polished aluminum, or a number of other shiny choices). If you use Alclad, follow the primer instructions the bottle gives exactly. Anything else may fail because the paint is very "hot" and will cut right through other types of primer.
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Those reels look very convincing. Are the sandbags tiny individual pieces as they come from Pontos?
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