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CDW
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Gaetan How easy is it to change the blade on the Hegner saw? I watched a YouTube video for the Excalibur saw, and really liked the fact that the saw frame is hinged, so it raises to change the blade quickly. In the video, the owner has a cup of coffee sitting on the cutting table while the saw is running full speed. There is no vibration whatsoever showing on the cup of coffee. Craig
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Copyright - beware
CDW replied to dvm27's topic in How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT**
What a litigious world we live in today. Lots of land mines out there, for sure. While I'm no lawyer, I wouldn't be surprised if some people/companies use strong-arm tactics to extort money from people whether the law would actually support their claims or not. Just the threat of having to defend yourself in a lawsuit is enough to cause many of us to pay off, just to mitigate the damage. It is well known there are many such companies out there who will do exactly that. All that being said, the most sage advice is likely what the previous poster just said...unless you took the picture yourself, don't post it. Craig -
My plan is for a new Excalibur scroll saw, next. No more 'cheap' scroll saws for me. They have only brought me aggravation and very low quality work. They're loud, they shake, and cannot make accurate cuts. I am ready to throw the el-cheapo scroll saw I own in a dumpster or give it to the scrap man. I'm better off cutting by hand rather than using this cheap, under-performing saw.
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That's turning out real nice, Mike. I once owned that kit some years ago, then sold it when I needed to relocate some inventory in my garage. Wish I had kept it along with a number of other, hard to find model ship kits. The price of those have gone up quite a bit since I first bought one years ago. Regards Craig
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Paul Does the deck use a contact cement that's been pre-applied, or is it something else? In one thread, I saw the modeler slightly peel the paper backing from the bottom of the deck and then get it started. As he aligned it, he slowly peeled the backing away, pressing the deck down as he went. Was that your experience with applying the deck? Craig
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In my plastic ship model stash, I have a number kits that have been around and in my possession quite a few years. One is the 1:350 Trumpeter USS Essex carrier; another is the 1:350 Tamiya King George V. Just to get some experience on a less expensive model first, I may buy a wood deck for the KGV and do it first, just for practice. That way, if I make mistakes I won't feel so badly about it. With that kit, I also have an old Gold Medal PE set, and a set of metal gun barrels and props. It should be good experience and practice before tackling the Iowa. I have realized the Pontos detail set for the Essex is maybe just as complex as the Iowa. So I won't try that kit first. Craig
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Buying an Expensive Kit and throwing most of it away
CDW replied to pirozzi's topic in Wood ship model kits
Being a long-time modeler, and looking at the big picture with 20-20 hindsight...if I had it to do all over again, would concentrate my initial efforts on acquiring good quality tools, such as saws, clamps, a lathe, a planer, a good scroll saw, etc. All this would be in anticipation of scratch building. It is so rewarding and satisfying to build from scratch. Alas...the temptation to buy instant gratification through a kit has always been so great, I failed to take the time and develop the discipline to acquire the proper tools, first. But then again, I mostly did the best I knew how at the time and only realized the better scratch-building solution after years went by. Most important thing is to have fun and don't make the hobby a job. It should be a pleasure, not a source of frustration and regret. A guy can have a lot of fun with kits. I know, because I have. Regards Craig -
Denis, What a great story - and an excellent looking little model. Those grandsons are going to be thrilled! Craig
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Buying an Expensive Kit and throwing most of it away
CDW replied to pirozzi's topic in Wood ship model kits
This is SO true. Since coming back to this site after many years away, it's an invaluable resource to learn, or in many cases, relearn, what it is I do not know or have otherwise forgotten. Did not know until last night that the DeAgostini kits of the Victory and Surprise were actually the AL kits....which can be bought for half the price! -
I just found this thread. FYI, I have two of the Model Space kit subscriptions. The HMS Victory and the Japanese WW2 1:250 scale Aircraft Carrier, Akagi. I am at month 6 with the Victory and month 5 with the Akagi. Both kits are very good quality. The support of high quality construction videos and excellent construction manuals make the progression of each build very well explained with loads of full color photographs. The manuals also contain a lot of historical information and photos. I am very well pleased with both models. I do wish the Yamato was offered in the USA. Maybe one day soon?
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Do you have a little strip cutter? It's a plastic tool that uses a #11 X-Acto blade. The blade adjusts vertically for the depth of cut (thickness of material) and a screw adjusts the width of the cut. It allows you to buy sheet material and quickly cut your own strips for planking or other uses. Comes in very handy; I use mine a LOT. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAA63&P=ML Through National Balsa, you can buy some exotic 1/32 sheets of wood, then use the strip tool to cut your own strips. That can also save you a lot of money when you're on a budget. I will often double plank using a thin veneer (1/32) for the final finish. I just use contact cement to apply them to the planking after the entire model is planked.
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Old Man Try these guys out for your wood supplies. Their prices are very reasonable and you'll stretch your dollars a lot further buying from them rather than the variety store. http://www.nationalbalsa.com/ Regards Craig
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Buying an Expensive Kit and throwing most of it away
CDW replied to pirozzi's topic in Wood ship model kits
My foray into golf ended when I was 18 years old. I made a mighty, smooth swing with a driver.....and promptly lost my grip, tossed the club about 300 yards. After suffering much laughter from onlookers and a stern tongue lashing from my football coach (who thought I did it on purpose), never picked up a set of clubs again. -
I apologize in advance for the really poor quality of my photos. Just don't have the appropriate setup yet to do them as they should be done. But here is the Fletcher with all but maybe some minor weathering that I might do in the future. Haven't decided for sure yet. The sailor figures came from Shapeways...the people who do the 3D printing. I bought a set in battle gear as well as a set in normal sailor dress. The figures used are the battle gear set. For now, am going to call this one done. It was a good choice for me to get back into the hobby after a long hiatus. When you return to the hobby after a long time, you realize just how much you've forgotten. The good news is, most of it comes back into memory quickly after that first kit gets put under your belt. In retrospect, I could have done a much better job of planning my construction sequence and completed a much better paint job. I got much too far ahead of myself in construction and that limited what I could do to achieve an authentic paint scheme. But as it is, it's easy on the eyes and looks rather convincing to most anyone I know who sees it, as most do not know even a fraction of what is is/is not authentic with respect to paint schemes and such unless perhaps they actually served on that or a similar ship.
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Buying an Expensive Kit and throwing most of it away
CDW replied to pirozzi's topic in Wood ship model kits
At least it's not quite as bad as what I have been guilty of doing in the past...buying expensive kits and letting them sit on a shelf until some parts and plans became ruined. In some cases, have lost entire kits for one reason or another. -
I've seen the magnets at Harbor Freight, very very cheap.
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Channell The work you did to correct the Iowa hull to the proper shape was very impressive. Not only did the conversion require a lot of work, you had to search and find an appropriate set of 3D drawing, or at least some that had sufficient cross-section detail to allow the conversion. Personally, I wouldn't want to spend the time to do that much correction. With a ship of this size and complexity, maybe I should reconsider that attitude. If I am going to go to the trouble to spends months adding a detail set, why not correct the hull while I'm at it. At least I will have your pictures and comments as a how-to guide.
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Thanks for the kind words, Tim. I want to get this finished because I have some very old subjects waiting in the wings. Going to knock the dust off and build them.
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Much closer to completion now. Remaining work to be done includes rigging, signal flags, crew figures, more decals, props, etc. Almost ready to close the books on this little project and start another.
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Decided to build the USS Constitution 1/96 Scale Model
CDW replied to kmgreene's topic in Plastic model kits
Mark Oh...that's very good to know. Have bookmarked that page for future reference. An amazing assortment of useful items. Like many other things, have learned it's often better to acquire things like these when they're available, because they are often gone when you get a 'round tuit'. Thanks! Craig -
Decided to build the USS Constitution 1/96 Scale Model
CDW replied to kmgreene's topic in Plastic model kits
Hey...I know this thread is very "long in the tooth", but does anyone know from whom and where photo etch sets are available for the 1:96 USS Revell Constitution? I have searched, but cannot find a source. Maybe they have gone defunct by now? Regards Craig -
Thanks! Just did a search and briefly looked through some of the various build threads. Wow - seems they build all the PE details first, paint, and sort into sub assemblies so basically, most all the painting is done before assembly/attaching to the deck. Read where one modeler said assembly of the Pontos detail set is approximately a 3 month project all by itself.
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I recently bought the 1:200 Trumpeter Iowa, and am considering whether to buy the Pontos Detail Set either with or without the wooden deck. My question/concern is, how the heck do you apply the deck, assemble all the details, then paint the model without ruining the deck? Just looking at detailed photos of the set on the net, it is readily apparent the deck must be applied at an early stage of building the model, then all the many detailed parts are added. If the detailed parts were built first, installed and painted, the deck could not be laid in place (it appears to me). So, does anyone know how it's done? I don't know, but it may be a bridge too far for me, beyond my skill level. I only have about 50 years of experience with this hobby, and even after all this time and difficult projects completed, some look very daunting to put it mildly. This is one. Any thoughts? PS: maybe I would be well enough off just to build the kit out of the box with maybe just adding some upgraded gun barrels. The kit does bring numerous photo etch detail sheets all on its own without any aftermarket at all.
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Check this link. I believe it has the instruction images you need: http://www.model-making.eu/products/item_name-110139.html You'll just need to print them out. Hope this helps. Craig PS: if you take a look at the very last instruction page/image, it shows the template tool included with your kit to make the ratlines. it also shows all the ship rigging in great detail.
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