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CDW

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Everything posted by CDW

  1. Thanks - I'll look for those AK products in my favorite places.
  2. What is the AK wash, Greg? Not familiar with it. Painting it would be simple enough. I don't think there are any pre-stained decks available for this model so I'll have to do it myself or just use the natural wood deck.
  3. Experimenting on a scrap piece of natural colored wood deck material, I stained it with Vallejo dark gray wash. It seems to have turned out okay, so maybe there is a way to stain that wood deck after all. My concern will be how consistent the stain works over the entire deck and that it will not look splotchy in places. I guess the only way to find out is to just do one up and see. As it turns out I do have an entire extra deck I can experiment with.
  4. OC The reference I have shows that scheme (your photo) as being from 1941, so maybe there was some period in 1943 she wore that scheme before receiving the newer scheme which she wore in December, 1943. Don't know for sure, but just guessing.
  5. I had these pictures that were labeled as the 1943 color scheme, but I doubted them. After reading your description from the Roger Chesnau book, maybe they are correct after all? What do you think? My wooden deck is more of a natural wood color, not stained dark as pictured here. I don't know a way of restaining a wood deck a darker color like that, so I would leave it as is I think. Comments?
  6. It doesn't look like much, but spent several hours cutting away unwanted raised detail, sanding and smoothing out the deck pieces in preparation for the wood deck. Finding color call outs or pictures of the 1943 configured HMS Duke of York is turning up rather empty. Best I can tell, the colors are pretty basic...a white-gray on the hull, turrets, and superstructures, a dark gray on top of the turrets, and a black-gray on the hull armor belt. Does anyone have any information that either agrees or disagrees with this? The ship went through several or more paint schemes, but the December 1943 scheme is what I'm after.
  7. I think you have done a fantastic job cleaning up those cast metal engine pieces and assembling them. That will turn out to be a very respectable representation of the engine. The landing gear and wheels look super as well.
  8. Got started tonight. Not too much done yet, though. When I have multi-piece decks, I like to glue a styrene strip to the bottom of the deck pieces at the joints so that the pieces have something to glue to each other and not allow the deck to flex at the joints. Then, there is a ton of raised deck details that must be cut off and sanded smooth as the wood deck covers it, then replacement resin pieces are provided in the Pontos set to take their place. I started cutting off the raised details and sanding the deck smooth. Also, sanded smooth the raised mold line along the bottom of the hull to prepare it for painting.
  9. That really looks nice. Only another modeler can appreciate how much work is involved in laying down that much planking. The added interior and lighting are very nice detail features. "Admiral" is definitely the correct term for a spouse graduating with their master's degree. This is her weekend.
  10. This old 1:350 Tamiya 1:350 King George V kit has been in my possession a long time. Maybe 20 years or more, I forget. A short while back I took it out of storage from my attic and decided I would build it. Discovering that Pontos made a conversion set to build this model as the HMS Duke of York gained my interest because I had already finished the Scharnhorst and it's in my display cabinet. As you probably know, these two ships have significant combat history against each other. In December of 1943, the HMS Duke of York along with other British ships sank the Scharnhorst off the coast of Norway. In one salvo, the DoY destroyed the front main gun turrets of the Scharnhorst and everything went downhill from there for the ill-fated German Battleship. Here's my starting shot of what I'm working with. Even as old as this kit is, it's a testament to how well Tamiya kits are engineered for good fit. I am hoping it's going to turn out to be a nice model in the end. The Pontos set comes with five nice photo etch sheets, a heavy bag of turned brass gun barrels and ship's masts, and a large number of resin parts. In addition, it brings a wooden deck and a small sheet of dry transfers.
  11. Hello FR I love the subject model and have been looking at them for sale on Ebay from time to time. Will follow your build log and try to learn how it all goes together. Looks like you are making swift progress and she appears to be of very sturdy construction. Great choice of a model in my opinion! Regards CDW (Craig)
  12. I wish the Calypso had even less to do with a plastic model...like the hull being of wood construction instead of that ABS plastic. I'm still looking at alternative construction to build the hull from wood rather than using the plastic hull.
  13. She looks like she could sail right out of my monitor and unload a salvo. Marvelous.
  14. I used a lot of Floquil paints years ago. I had probably 300 bottles of paint from years ago in storage containers not long ago, Rather than hose up some good models and clog up my air brushes, just gave them away and disposed of the rest. It was maybe wasteful of me, but mine had been subjected to some hot temps in a non-climate controlled garage and I just didn't feel like experimenting. With these new acrylics, I've gotten spoiled on how easy they are to use, not stinky, and how quickly they dry. Some of my old Floquil paints took a long time to thoroughly dry.
  15. Want to decide on one of these, next: 1:200 Mikasa with a Pontos detail set 1:350 Duke of York - a conversion from the Tamiya Prince of Wales using a Pontos conversion set 1:48 Billing Calypso Research Vessel 1:8 '32 Ford Roadster Street Rod (for a change of pace) 1:32 Trumpeter SU-25 Frogfoot ground attack aircraft (another change of pace) Going to decide in the next day or so.
  16. It's time for me to put a bow on this one and call it finished. Tonight it will go into my display case for the grandsons and other visitors to eyeball behind glass, safe from curious hands. Of course, I reserve my right to float it in the bath tub with me from time to time when necessary to run "sea trials".
  17. Today I made a battle flag by cutting a small piece of aluminum foil, shaping it a bit to simulate a flag flapping in the wind, then applied the Kriegsmarine battle flag decals to both sides of it before attaching it to it's mast. Rather happy with the way it came out but not so happy with trying to freehand the swastika on the flag as the Germans (Revell-Germany kit) cannot reproduce it on the decal I suppose. The aluminum foil was so delicate I had to be careful when drawing the swastika not to ruin the flag by piercing or folding it.
  18. I have no idea what the disk on the bow represents. I tried to find reference detail for it and came up empty. Maybe someone more knowledgeable about E-Boats can chime in and shed some light on the subject. The kit supplied some decals but somehow I have managed to misplace them. I feel certain once I begin cleaning up my work space they will show up and if not, will just have to order an after market set. Decals for a 1:72 E-Boat are few and far between as far as choice is concerned. An offering from Peddinghaus in Germany, and that's about all that I can find. I have some good flags left over from other builds that will work just fine.
  19. Another week and this one should be finished. I can see light at the end of the tunnel now. My aftermarket set has replacement railings for the model, in the form of photo etch stanchions and either very small diameter wire or thread. After looking it over carefully and dry fitting some of it, I thought the 2 dimensional photo etch stanchions looked out of place at this scale. They seem to look great on 1:350 scale models, but at 1:72 scale the 2 dimensional look leaves something to be desired in my judgment. So I used the kit supplied railings which are not perfect by any means but a better alternative in this case I think.
  20. These little paper embossing tools work fantastic for precision placement of super glue. The little ball on the end of the tool allows you to place a tiny "dot" of glue just where you want it. https://www.amazon.com/Styluses-Embossing-Pattern-Sculpting-Making/dp/B008UN6H10/ref=sr_1_4?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1494009053&sr=1-4&keywords=embossing+tools+for+paper
  21. Have been neglecting my pictures and working very slowly on her lately. Too many irons in the fire as the old saying goes.
  22. The problem with using a base on my finished ship models is that it makes it almost impossible to float it next to me when I'm in the bath tub.
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