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Everything posted by CDW
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Fokker Dr.I by Torbogdan - FINISHED - Model Airways
CDW replied to Torbogdan's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Flying RC is like learning to ride a bicycle. You have some crashes at first, but then you catch on. Even after you've not flown for a number of years, it comes right back to you once you've learned the orientation and have developed some muscle memory for moving the control sticks. A great hobby, but getting harder to find proper flying sites for large flying models like I love to build. -
Wow, Mike. Bum deal. Hope you heal up soon, but I know a broken toe is going to be a real hassle to say the least.
- 146 replies
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- dumas
- Chris-Craft Commander Express
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How much weight do you estimate the interior fiberglass added? Not that weight matters so much here, like it does on a flying model or similar. Without fiberglass and resin, a model boat might not be very seaworthy.
- 146 replies
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- dumas
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Oh yeah....you need lots of ventilation for hot stuff like that. Can quickly cause some real health issues.
- 146 replies
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- dumas
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Yes, I always cut and work with small pieces rather than large ones. Particularly where you are working around bulkheads like that, small pieces are less prone to having bubbles underneath. What I can see in your pictures looks like you did just fine.
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- dumas
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Are you taping the outside of the hull to prevent the resin from running through when you fiberglass the inside of the hull? Looks great so far. Ooops - I just now saw your comment. Didn't see it when you first posted the picture.
- 146 replies
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- dumas
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I've never seen those particular airplanes available and sold separate from the Yamato or some other ship kit, like the Tone. Maybe a model shop in Japan might have them if Tamiya packages and sells them that way (separate).
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Wow, that's bad news about the plating. Nickel plating is very finicky, as I have heard from Engineers who tied to use it in commercial electronics projects. Environment has to be totally clean, almost sterile, which is very hard to do. Just fingerprints will cause it to fail. A tried and true method for a very nice chrome-like finish is to airbrush Alclad chrome paint onto a surface that is primered with a coat of black acrylic (like Tamiya) and is then totally dry, cured before the Alclad. It looks almost just like real chrome (or polished aluminum, or a number of other shiny choices). If you use Alclad, follow the primer instructions the bottle gives exactly. Anything else may fail because the paint is very "hot" and will cut right through other types of primer.
- 146 replies
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- dumas
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Those reels look very convincing. Are the sandbags tiny individual pieces as they come from Pontos?
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A few months ago, I ran across these "Beadsmith Magical Picks" on Ebay and decided to give them a try. For the really tiny, small PE parts that are a little too small to handle with tweezers lest they fly away into the vast wastes beyond, I use these. They work great! Quick, fast, and precise. Not for larger pieces that require lots of positioning and repositioning, but for those smaller parts like maybe portholes, these work wonders. http://www.ebay.com/itm/261514587700?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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I've followed build threads for the 1:200 Missouri and Iowa kits with Pontos sets added. Intimidating and huge projects.
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EJ_L Just visiting your build thread for the 1st time. Looking at all the progress photos, she looks great! I really appreciate the way your planking is coming along. Neat, clean, and professional. Excellent work, Sir! CDW
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She's a best of show winner, to be sure. Simply gorgeous.
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- kaiser wilhelm der grosse
- passenger steamer
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Can you still do the inside, or has construction concealed some of it? To work around those bulkheads, the lighter cloth might be more advantageous inside.
- 146 replies
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- dumas
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She's a beauty, and the strength will come when you add that fiberglass and resin.
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The deck looks fantastic as it is. Are there any scrap deck pieces you could experiment on without taking a chance on the main deck, first? Some very light work with pastels might be the ticket, but would hate to try it on the main deck without experimenting on scrap.
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Mark Out of curiosity, how many watts is your laser, and what do you feel is the minimum watts required for typical ship model part fabrication?
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Fokker Dr.I by Torbogdan - FINISHED - Model Airways
CDW replied to Torbogdan's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
That radial engine would not be a terribly difficult one to scratch build if you are inclined to that sort of solution. It could end up a much more suitable end product that the kit supplied engine. Perhaps there are parts of the kit engine you can use, just detail a bit. There are many sources of detailed drawings of the engine on line, just need to scale it to your needs. -
Fokker Dr.I by Torbogdan - FINISHED - Model Airways
CDW replied to Torbogdan's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
With the great job you've done on the airframe, the attention to the guns will be a welcome addition. Good choice. -
Thanks for the comments and the likes, guys. It's coming along slowly but surely. My old eyeballs can't stand the fatigue of working with the photo etch for too long of periods of time before I need to give it a rest. That's even with good magnification and lighting.
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- schnellboot s-100
- revell
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Fokker Dr.I by Torbogdan - FINISHED - Model Airways
CDW replied to Torbogdan's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Gas Patch models make a beautiful set of 1:16 Spandau guns, but they are pricey. https://www.bnamodelworld.com/for-other-scales-model-planes-gaspatch-models-gas15-16079?zenid=d1f49320612eb0ea8862234ad9690013 Regards CDW
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