Jump to content

CDW

NRG Member
  • Posts

    7,385
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by CDW

  1. Do you have a little strip cutter? It's a plastic tool that uses a #11 X-Acto blade. The blade adjusts vertically for the depth of cut (thickness of material) and a screw adjusts the width of the cut. It allows you to buy sheet material and quickly cut your own strips for planking or other uses. Comes in very handy; I use mine a LOT. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAA63&P=ML Through National Balsa, you can buy some exotic 1/32 sheets of wood, then use the strip tool to cut your own strips. That can also save you a lot of money when you're on a budget. I will often double plank using a thin veneer (1/32) for the final finish. I just use contact cement to apply them to the planking after the entire model is planked.
  2. Old Man Try these guys out for your wood supplies. Their prices are very reasonable and you'll stretch your dollars a lot further buying from them rather than the variety store. http://www.nationalbalsa.com/ Regards Craig
  3. My foray into golf ended when I was 18 years old. I made a mighty, smooth swing with a driver.....and promptly lost my grip, tossed the club about 300 yards. After suffering much laughter from onlookers and a stern tongue lashing from my football coach (who thought I did it on purpose), never picked up a set of clubs again.
  4. I apologize in advance for the really poor quality of my photos. Just don't have the appropriate setup yet to do them as they should be done. But here is the Fletcher with all but maybe some minor weathering that I might do in the future. Haven't decided for sure yet. The sailor figures came from Shapeways...the people who do the 3D printing. I bought a set in battle gear as well as a set in normal sailor dress. The figures used are the battle gear set. For now, am going to call this one done. It was a good choice for me to get back into the hobby after a long hiatus. When you return to the hobby after a long time, you realize just how much you've forgotten. The good news is, most of it comes back into memory quickly after that first kit gets put under your belt. In retrospect, I could have done a much better job of planning my construction sequence and completed a much better paint job. I got much too far ahead of myself in construction and that limited what I could do to achieve an authentic paint scheme. But as it is, it's easy on the eyes and looks rather convincing to most anyone I know who sees it, as most do not know even a fraction of what is is/is not authentic with respect to paint schemes and such unless perhaps they actually served on that or a similar ship.
  5. At least it's not quite as bad as what I have been guilty of doing in the past...buying expensive kits and letting them sit on a shelf until some parts and plans became ruined. In some cases, have lost entire kits for one reason or another.
  6. I've seen the magnets at Harbor Freight, very very cheap.
  7. Channell The work you did to correct the Iowa hull to the proper shape was very impressive. Not only did the conversion require a lot of work, you had to search and find an appropriate set of 3D drawing, or at least some that had sufficient cross-section detail to allow the conversion. Personally, I wouldn't want to spend the time to do that much correction. With a ship of this size and complexity, maybe I should reconsider that attitude. If I am going to go to the trouble to spends months adding a detail set, why not correct the hull while I'm at it. At least I will have your pictures and comments as a how-to guide.
  8. Thanks for the kind words, Tim. I want to get this finished because I have some very old subjects waiting in the wings. Going to knock the dust off and build them.
  9. Much closer to completion now. Remaining work to be done includes rigging, signal flags, crew figures, more decals, props, etc. Almost ready to close the books on this little project and start another.
  10. Mark Oh...that's very good to know. Have bookmarked that page for future reference. An amazing assortment of useful items. Like many other things, have learned it's often better to acquire things like these when they're available, because they are often gone when you get a 'round tuit'. Thanks! Craig
  11. Hey...I know this thread is very "long in the tooth", but does anyone know from whom and where photo etch sets are available for the 1:96 USS Revell Constitution? I have searched, but cannot find a source. Maybe they have gone defunct by now? Regards Craig
  12. Thanks! Just did a search and briefly looked through some of the various build threads. Wow - seems they build all the PE details first, paint, and sort into sub assemblies so basically, most all the painting is done before assembly/attaching to the deck. Read where one modeler said assembly of the Pontos detail set is approximately a 3 month project all by itself.
  13. I recently bought the 1:200 Trumpeter Iowa, and am considering whether to buy the Pontos Detail Set either with or without the wooden deck. My question/concern is, how the heck do you apply the deck, assemble all the details, then paint the model without ruining the deck? Just looking at detailed photos of the set on the net, it is readily apparent the deck must be applied at an early stage of building the model, then all the many detailed parts are added. If the detailed parts were built first, installed and painted, the deck could not be laid in place (it appears to me). So, does anyone know how it's done? I don't know, but it may be a bridge too far for me, beyond my skill level. I only have about 50 years of experience with this hobby, and even after all this time and difficult projects completed, some look very daunting to put it mildly. This is one. Any thoughts? PS: maybe I would be well enough off just to build the kit out of the box with maybe just adding some upgraded gun barrels. The kit does bring numerous photo etch detail sheets all on its own without any aftermarket at all.
  14. Check this link. I believe it has the instruction images you need: http://www.model-making.eu/products/item_name-110139.html You'll just need to print them out. Hope this helps. Craig PS: if you take a look at the very last instruction page/image, it shows the template tool included with your kit to make the ratlines. it also shows all the ship rigging in great detail.
  15. I use carpenter's glue (Titebond), almost exclusively when building my wood models. I use a flux bottle as an applicator for the glue, like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Needle-Dispenser-Bottle-for-Rosin-Solder-Soldering-Liquid-Flux-11-Needles-30ml-/311045287303?hash=item486bbe6d87:g:BA4AAOSwGvhT5sz~ As an alternative, you could place a small amount of glue in the little disposable plastic cups, then apply with a small paint brush. I try to avoid using cyanoacrylate (super glue) as it can spoil the finish of your wooden model.
  16. Tim, The Eduard photo etch set for this ship is massive. It actually included all the doors, hatches, latches; to cut away and remove the kit molded-in detail and replace with photo etch. Personally, I thought the molded on doors and hatches looked well as-is. The photo etched latches are so small, I could not see well enough to bend and attach them, even if I wanted to do so. It's been quite a long time since I last built and finished a plastic model. Doing this one is reminding me of all the little important details of constructing one that I had forgotten and now must recall the hard way...by trial and error.
  17. Thanks for writing, Jud. It's always great to hear from someone who served on the ship which is being modeled. Looking at this build in retrospect, there are some things I wish I had done differently. For one, I should have assembled the various structures that attach to the deck, but left their attachment to the deck until last, after painting was done. It would have allowed me to more accurately portray the camo paint as it appeared in 1942. At this time, I must keep everything gray with some shading and weathering. I don't know an effective way to achieve the multi-colored camo with all the assembly that's been done. Craig
  18. The 1:144 scale Revell Germany offering of the USS Fletcher was a kit that interested me as soon as I heard it was coming out. For one reason or another, I never bought one when they were first released. Time went by and when I looked, they were already out of production and sold out in the hobby shops. Not to be denied, I searched Ebay and found one offered at a reasonable price. Bought the kit in November, then promptly ordered the Eduard Big Ed photo etch set and the Aber Gun detail set to dress it up a bit. While I was at it, I ordered two sets of US sailors in 1:144 scale from Shapeways. As some of you may know, they produce all sorts of neat things using 3D printer technology. Can't recall exactly, but I began construction of the model around the first of December. I wasn't planning to do a build thread on the model, so the pictures taken so far are limited, but they still will give an interested modeler an idea of what this model is like. I think it's a nice kit, light-years ahead of the old Lindberg kit. And in this scale, it's large enough for me to "see" what I'm doing while building it. If you have any questions about the model, feel free to ask away. I have a lot of detail and paint work remaining to be done, but the bulk of the construction is finished.
×
×
  • Create New...