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Karinmutter

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Posts posted by Karinmutter

  1. Hello fellow shipbuilders,

    I made a few adjustments and I have added two "toilets", the bowsprit lashings (forgotten to mention in the manual)  and the snaking. I have added a few pictures, which show the making of the "mouse". I used a wooden dowel, shaped it with my woodturning lathe and  carefulle drilled a hole going through it to make room for the stay.

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  2. 4 hours ago, Sailor1234567890 said:

    What is the purpose of the moused up stays? I see that it keeps the eye formed from closing tight on the mast as slack is taken up but is there another purpose? I'm more knowledgeable about later ships. 

    Hello Sailor! You are right, the purpose of the mouse is to keep the loop from closing tight on the mast. I guess it distributes the forces more evenly and allows better control by changing the distance between the closed heart blocks.  

    Greetings, Martin

  3. 7 hours ago, Vane said:

    Increadible build! I which to do Agamemnon some day as well!

    Just a technical issue I dont understand why. But I have seen several people "ink" the ratlines rather than using black thread. Why?  

    Hello Vane, thank you for your appreciation!

    As for your question: Threads, who are already black are not as easy to handle, because the coloring makes them stiffer. Also the desired  "sag" is harder to accomplish. Inked threads are not as evenly coated, because of glue etc. This resembles the original ropes more, who were tarred and weathered.

    On the other hand it requires some  extra work and you have to be careful not to get spots on the model. I covered the whole model with paper towels.

    In my previous models I had used thin black twine for the ratlines . They also give good results. 

    Greetings,

    Martin

  4. I finally inked the ratlines and worked on the gaff and on the stays. The mouse was made out of an 8 mm dowel, I gave it a pear form on my turning wood lathe and drilled a 3 mm hole in the middle for the stay. I put 0.5 mm of masking rope where the stay goes around the mast. This was done by hand. The rope for the stay was initially white and I stained it. I also bought prestained rope, but it did not look very good and was thinner, so I did not use it.

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  5. 3 hours ago, Henke said:

    Fantastic work Martin. I like the cathar pins. How did you fix them to the shrouds?

     

    Regards

    Henrik

    Hello Henke, thank you for the nice words. As for your question: I marked the position of the cathar pins with a tiny spot of paint on the shrouds. Then I put a little bit of superglue gel on the pin and pressed it gently against the shrouds,to keep their natural direction. 

    Greetings, Martin

  6. 15 minutes ago, James H said:

    This is coming along so well. Not too far from the finishing line now, relatively 😁

    Thank you Jim! It took me a lot longer than I had envisioned to make the yards. Plus we had a heat-wave here in Germany working under the roof can be a real torture.

    But now I am running out of excuses, and I think the shrouds will not be such a big challenge. In my dreams I already see the finishing line 😉 

    Hope you are doing fine!

    Martin

  7. On 4/9/2019 at 5:45 PM, vulcanbomber said:

    Lovely work.

     

    I'm reaching the masting stage of my build and I'm finding it a little daunting, they are far more complicated than the masts on my San Francisco!

     

    Hello vulcanbomber, I feel the same. There are a lot of little extras and sometimes the plans are not correct, so you have to find own solutions. Your project looks fine by the way!

  8. On 4/7/2019 at 12:30 PM, Jonathan11 said:

    Your attention to detail and excellent craftsmanship is perfection with this build. As I was going over this gem of a ship I felt as if I was looking at a real ship in dry dock being built. Really like the over-all color contrast you have used. Your other two competed ships are true master pieces.

    Thank you for the nice reply!  Right now I have overpainted the black part of the foremast. Although "dull black"( admirality paints) is the recommended black by Caldercraft, I think it looks better in a more matt tone (without too much shining ). I stained the dowel (color walnut) and put two layers of clear varnish on top. I put the dowels in a drilling machine (Bosch), layed it on my thighs, operated the speed with my right hand and the sandpaper with the left. 

    One final remark : At the bottom of the fore topmast the instructions suggest to file the 8 mm dowel square. But it is impossible to have the required thickness that way. So I cut off the square bottom, took a piece of a 12 mm dowel, filed it square and glued it back on the  fore topmast (with a brass nail connecting the two parts,because glue alone might be too weak. That fit in perfectly!

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  9. On 4/6/2019 at 9:49 PM, ETNZ said:

    Great small boats. My best news is that someone cancelled their surgery and I was given an early call. So, neck surgery done about ten days ago and it is so good to get the feeling back in my hands. I am not able to carry on with the main build but am making the incidentals like the anchors etc whilst convalescing. I hope that your polymyalgia stays at bay. Good luck as you press on.

    I wish that you will get well soon. The "Agamemnon" is hard enough to do without a handicap.

    Good luck to you, too!

  10. Meanwhile I have started to make the masts. I had to replace the dowel of the main mast (14 mms) because it was not straight.

     The platfotm turned out to be warped after I had glued the two parts together. I had to press it overnight and make the wood wet. That solved the problem.

    The rings at the bottom that hold the spears were a bit too wide. I put an "iron ring (thick black paper) under each ring and glued it together. 

     

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