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Posts posted by dgbot
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Keith is right on the mark Julie. By filling both sides at the same time you are assured of getting a straight hull with no warping. I also have a couple of their planes as well buried somewhere in the closet. They are expensive but well worth the price. When I received mine I through my X-Acto in the waste basket.
David B
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I am glad Judy is getting better and your solution to the skylight windows was ingenious. With that redo you gave me hope to increase my skills in miniature joinery.
David B
- michael mott, mtaylor, ggrieco and 3 others
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Nicely done Mobbsie I echo the above remarks. Kudos on a job well done.
David B
- CaptainSteve, Jack12477, Canute and 1 other
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Julie, using the balsa for filler is a very wise move as the bulkheads are so far apart. The filler will keep the hull from warping and provide a smooth surface four your planking. At times it is a pain and and time consuming but down the road worth the effort.
David B
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Fantastic build Greg. I thought it was the real thing when I saw those black and whites. I would love to see that model at Manitowoc when finished it would be a show stopper.
David B
- Canute, mtaylor and popeye the sailor
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You are off to a great start Cabbie, And good luck on your planking. As was stated apple bows are a bearcat and require rethinking and patience. At Manitowoc one year I saw a Model of the Endeavor with a perfect looking hull. Wish I could find the photos. The guy told me that he first laid out battens to get an idea of how the planks would run then using templates proceeded to spile and fit everything. Since it was a scratch build with single planking he had to be right the first time. Figuring out the drop planks and where to put them was the hardest part. But the end result was worth it. By utilizing battens you might find it easier to do that hull. Keep having fun.
David B
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You are doing a fine job Marc. The catboat makes into a great model that is open to modification. And you have shown the old saying "You can never have enough clamps." Have fun.
David B
- flying_dutchman2, Omega1234, Piet and 1 other
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There are several good one out there. I am partial to Sherline. They have almost everything needed. Just buy the basic package at the length you need and practice. What I like is the versatility of it. Taig makes a good lathe strong and sturdy. Micro Mark and Proxxon but I have not experience with either of them.
David B
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Harvey,tool sharpening takes time and practice. In the Chicago clubs there are quite a few machinists and they have all given seminars on tool sharpening and shaping. I learned quite a bit from them and one of the most important thing they said was crucial was to keep the bevels at the proper angles. I have found a couple links to help me out and they did the job.
http://littlemachineshop.com/instructions/grindingtoolbits.pdf
http://www.sherline.com/grinding.pdf
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nHEf6YL6sFI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sFnTXgXMbrQ
David B
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Have you tried to tape the edge that you want to make, then use the mask and then remove the tape leaving an edge?
David B
- mischief, thibaultron and captainbob
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3
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That is why I like Sherline. I bought the basic lathe years ago when I was scratch building my Benjamin W. Latham and have just added on extras as the need and my pocketbook would allow. I planned to get a Rotary table when I was diagnosed and that is on hold for a while as my mill is at a friends back in Chicago. When I went back he said I could it with me but my back almost killed me. He is keeping until i have the room and the need. A rotary table is almost a need when doing many jobs.
David B
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Artists who paint with watercolor use a liquid mask to protect the paper from being covered. Then just remove it with a rubber eraser. If there is an artist supply store near you or a Hobby Lobby check there.
David B
- mtaylor and thibaultron
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Years ago when I was a scout. Younger and lighter and full of energy I used to build those pinewood derby kits to race. Trust me the scouts turned those blocks into fantastic looking cars with the shaping and paint. For someone who does not mind, that kit would make a good base for something eye catching.
And you accomplished that. It might have started out as a pig's ear but was turned into a silk purse.
David B
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I echo everyone else Dave fantastic.
David
- CaptainSteve, Piet, Canute and 5 others
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VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1901 - Present Day
Posted
Congrats on a great model from a soso kit. I wonder if I would do what you have done in the same situation.
David B