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tkay11

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Everything posted by tkay11

  1. tkay11
    OK, Roger, I see it now, but the section in question is to do with the boom/main sheet and not the stay sail -- which is what I originally raised the question about. Tony
  2. tkay11
    Thanks, Roger. I hadn't seen that other idea. Sounds good. Whereabouts in Steel is that mentioned? It's too late for me to change my model now as I'm just finishing it off and want to move on, but I'd be really interested for future reference. Tony
  3. tkay11
    There have been quite a few who have given up on even those kits labelled as simple. I'm not sure that there is an even simpler kit for them. It may be more that the hobby is just not for them. Tony
  4. tkay11
    Isopropanol or isopropyl alcohol are excellent for dissolving PVA. You can buy it in large quantities from eBay very cheaply. I bought half a litre which is still going strong. As Brian suggested, it's worth keeping it soaked for a while. CA glue dissolves better in acetone, also available from eBay. Tony
  5. tkay11
    Thanks for all the likes and comments! Spyglass: That's really interesting, so thanks for the insight. However, I'm not going to dismantle or change the rig now. I'll keep the tip for some future time. Gregor: As I said to Dirk, it's thanks to the continued stimulus provided by you and others that have helped me come this far. I'm now feeling more confident about doing a build as a result, and as I'm beginning to see how all the aspects interconnect and function together. I'm especially pleased that the belaying pin rack by the stem has worked so well in terms of the logic. I'm still tempted to be agitated by the roughness of the work though ... Tony
  6. tkay11
    Just as an update to this thread, I eventually decided to make a horse of the type shown on the model of the Diligence at http://www.shipmodel.com/models/diligence-full-hull-nav- The result is: You can see this as part of my build log at http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/335-hmc-sherbourne-by-tkay11-–-caldercraft-–-scale-164-1763-a-novice’s-caldercraft-sherbourne/?p=420946 Thanks again to everyone for their help. Tony
  7. tkay11
    Thanks a lot, Wayne. Your post prompted me to look at your Cruizer brig, and that really is a magnificent undertaking. I'll be following that from now on. Tony
  8. tkay11
    As usual, my dear mentor Dirk, I am at a loss when you say such kind things. All I can say is that I deeply appreciate them and thank you! It shows what a good teacher you and others have been for me on this forum! As to the hull, I already know your's is going to continue to turn out far better than anything I can do. Thanks again for your continued encouragement! Tony
  9. tkay11
    GENERAL APPEARANCE TO DATE The following pictures show the general appearance as it is now. Once I am back from my next trip I’ll work on the ratlines, the swivel guns, the anchors and the flags. That should complete the model. Tony
  10. tkay11
    PREPARING THE BELAYING Just to show how I approached the rigging, I held the various lines down with clamps 1. to keep them separate 2. to hold them taut against belaying pins whilst the knots were drying after being dabbed with dilute PVA. Next up: Overall appearance Tony
  11. tkay11
    STAYSAIL In addition to the discussion about the type of horse to use for the staysail sheet, I spent some time trying to figure out the rigging of the tack tackle and the downhauler. Eventually I worked out Steel’s descriptions as follows: Next up: Preparing the belaying Tony
  12. tkay11
    TRUSSES One thing that amazed me was how strongly the yards attach to the mast using just trusses and braces. I used the simple truss described by Marquardt for the crossjack yard, reeved through blocks on the deck as follows: The topsail yard has an even simpler truss which is not reeved through blocks on the deck. Next up: about the staysail Tony
  13. tkay11
    YARD HORSES I used 0.2mm black wire twisted round itself and passed through the back of the yards as follows (the picture shows the practice I did on a matchstick): Next up: Trusses Tony
  14. tkay11
    STAYSAIL AND JIB HEAD STICKS Following Steel’s diagrams I used Head Sticks for the jib and staysail. I made the headsticks using my Proxxon wood lathe as follows: Then, using the same techniques described earlier for the making of the mainsail, I attached the headsticks as follows: Next up: the making of the yard horses Tony
  15. tkay11
    TYING TO BELAYING PINS I used a simple jig as shown below. Note that the holes for the dressmaker pins are over-sized to allow simple removal Next up is about Head Sticks for the Jib and Staysail Tony
  16. tkay11
    THIMBLES Instead of cutting brass tubing, I decided to make my thimbles from coiled rope soaked in CA glue and then cut into sections. I did this for two reasons: 1. It allows me to make any size thimble I want 2. It has a similar colour to wood You can see the process in the following pictures: Next up is about belaying pins
  17. tkay11
    RIGGING PLAN The general plan I followed was that depicted in a plate in Volume 3 of David Steel’s Elements and Practice of Rigging, Seamanship, and Naval Tactics. One advantage of this (i.e. not having a squaresail or topgallant) is that it leaves the model more open and lighter in appearance, as well as making it look (to my eyes) speedier. In addition, and after the lengthy discussion about the horse for the staysail, I adopted the style of horse used on the model of the Diligence which I found at http://www.shipmodel.com/models/diligence-full-hull-nav- I also found Marquardt’s book on 18th Century Rigs and Rigging really useful for the diagrams. Next post is about making thimbles Tony
  18. tkay11
    Looking forward to it. Tony
  19. tkay11
    Glad you're making progress, and looking forward to the photos -- but not too gruesome of the injuries! Tony
  20. tkay11
    That was really funny! It shows that I'll have to learn to read the headers as well as the text! Tony the Dodderer
  21. tkay11
    I'm also looking forward to this build. It looks great so far. What scale are you using? Tony
  22. tkay11
    Another thing that might help at the very early stages is not to fix the stem, keel and sternpost until you have finished the planking. That way you will not damage those parts when sanding down and finishing off the planking. I had to spend ages taking off the scratches on all three once I had done my planking. This applies especially to the stern post as you have to make a bearding line and place the edges of the planks in line with the edge of the sternpost. There are lots of things like this that were not covered in the instructions given with the kit I'm building. It may be that the Lady Nelson instructions are slightly better, but as they are from the same company and have a very similar construction, I'm taking the liberty of giving my own experience! Tony
  23. tkay11
    Looking forward to your log. There's no shortage of cutters now on this forum, so you'll get plenty of interest and as much information as you want. The first steps may be the most daunting but you should soon find your feet. As Antony said,don't be afraid to ask about anything you find puzzling. There's no such thing as a stupid question here. Everyone has at some stage gone through the same learning process and very happy to help others through the inevitable problems that arise. Just one word of advice which may make no sense now but you should pin somewhere for future reference: it's better to leave the mast cap off until you've finished the shrouds and other ropes that have to go over the top. I really wish someone had given me that tip for my own model as right now it's proving very fiddly to tie ropes between the mast and topmast. Tony
  24. tkay11
    Thanks, Henry. My confusion was that I didn't see how the direction would be changed since the channels are about the same height as the gunwale. So the line from a block which is raised from the channels would then feed to a block that is attached to the gunwale and then to a timber-head which is also at the same height. I hadn't seen any advantage over simply pulling the line inboard from a block that was already at or near gunwale height when it was placed on a channel. I hope that helps you see why I was confused! Tony
  25. tkay11
    Yes, Dave, that is of help. It also tallies with Petersson's drawings in Rigging Periood Fore-and-Aft Craft, where the fall goes directly to the deck. Thanks very much! Tony

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