tkay11

At SAT Berlin it's going for €122 or £95. Their site is also in English. TBS Aachen is more expensive right now. Shipping will be on top. I bought mine from SAT Berlin in Jan 2014 (when it was €139.49). Spare sanding discs on top of that are useful to get as they are also much cheaper in Germany. There's no VAT or import duty when importing from Germany to the UK as it's all in the EU. I really like my TG 125. You can improve the precision by using a set square and a protractor. I've also bought stuff from Warco before. They have very good customer and after-sales service, and you might be tempted to try their cheaper sander, especially as it's a combo. Tony

Thanks, Gregor. I guessed this is what you might have done. I'll probably use Ed Tosti's method of aligning the keel/stem/stern with the body (in his POB build of Young America). Thanks also for the link. Very useful. Tony

Sorry to go back a bit, Gregor, but I've been looking at the rabbet. You said "The rabbet I cut was too small; it would have worked with planks of 0.5 mm, but it didn’t work so well with the 1 mm planks I used. They didn’t fit in completely." I can't quite work out how the rabbet should be cut at 1/64. At that scale, it runs at 1.5mm along its greater part (Boudriot suggests 2mm planks for the 1/48 scale, which would be easy to do). From what you say, it suggests three layers of 0.5mm, or 1 of 1mm and 1 of 0.5mm. For the Sherbourne (also 1/64) I put two layers of planking on the Sherbourne as per the instructions, but instead of two layers of 1mm, I used 1mm planks only for the first layer and the second was 0.5mm. I'd be really grateful if you could clarify how you worked on the rabbet and the garboard strakes. Did you put on only one layer of planking? If so, was that 1mm throughout? Or did you go for two layers? (I also note you used the same basic construction method on these models as the Sherbourne kit, with the keel, stem and stern added on after -- something I have also been working on on the mock-up I have been doing. I'd therefore also be interested in how you lined up and fitted the two sets of parts -- or was that easy because it was all laser cut? I'm just using coping saw and disc sander, hence the question.) Sorry if I missed this in case you explained all this already -- if so, put it down to early senility! But thanks for any guidance! Tony

There was a discussion about the characteristics of copper, bronze and brass in 2013. See http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2102-copper-bronze-and-brass-how-to-treat-them/#entry50895. Wefalck in particular made some good points. Tony

This may not be the place to say this, but I too have been contemplating a scroll saw for a future build. I have been interested to hear about the different values of scroll saws and band saws, so have followed this discussion with much interest. Clearly for my purposes I would tend to a scroll saw. However, I have already a coping saw and a jeweller's piercing saw, but I was worried that these would be very hard work and possibly lead to inaccuracies. However, I thought it best to try it out before committing to spending such a large sum of money. So I took the plans of La Jacinthe and reduced them to 1:64 (not wanting to waste some scrap plywood that the local wood merchant gave me for a pound) and cut out the fore-aft bulkhead as well as a couple of the rear bulkheads. I left a millimetre or less around the edges knowing that I was likely not to be able to have a perfectly vertical stroke. Imagine my total surprise to find that it wasn't all that hard, and probably took as much time as it would have done to set up a scroll saw and cut to the same tolerance. This has made me do a rapid rethink. Do I really need a scroll saw? Certainly if I were only to make plank on bulkhead models I would probably say no. However, when it comes to making all those small parts for a fully-framed plank-on-frame model, then I could imagine the whole thing would be made much less tiring and easier with a scroll saw. In the end, I'll probably get a scroll saw, seeing that I want to do a cross-section and eventually a full plank-on-frame. However, that will be the future and I'm going to do a plank-on-bulkhead model with my coping saw and piercing saw -- partly to explore just how nicely it can be done, and partly just to say I did it! Tony

No hurry, Jan. Just make sure everything's ok. Models can wait. Tony

Thanks for the details, Gregor. I'll certainly watch out for the rabbet should I go ahead with this build. I too have been experimenting with sizing it all up on the computer, and my local timber merchant gave me some offcut plywood for £1 with which I can experiment before making any final decisions. Your own experience is invaluable for me -- as it has been with the Sherbourne. Tony

Just as a matter of interest, Gregor, since I found a cheap copy of the Jacinthe monograph on eBay (and have therefore started considering to do this build as well once my Sherbourne is finished), I was wondering whether you followed Boudriot's suggestions of making the keel thinner and adding veneer to the outsides of the keel, stem and stern. When looking at this I thought this was a bit of a convoluted way of doing things, and thought it would be better to build the fore-aft bulkhead to the correct width. This in turn would mean cutting the slots in the cross-bulkheads to the width of the lengthways bulkhead, although it would also mean cutting out a rabbet. Your pictures suggest that you may have made the thinner version and added veneer as suggested, but I'd be very grateful for your opinion on this matter. I might have PM'd you on this, but thought it would be of interest to others who may want to make the model. Tony

So mast tackles may not have been too far out a thought. Tony

Thanks, grsjax and ofencer29350, for the links. I've joined the forum modèlisme naval bois as a result. I also like the Marine et Modélisme d'Arsenal forum. There are plenty of great builds in both, as well as the different range of models from this forum. It's wonderful to peek into the fora in other countries such as Russia, Germany, Japan etc as they also look great -- representing different styles, models and culture which all adds to the interest and contextualises our different conceptual frameworks and conventions in this hobby. Tony

Just catching up again, Mark. It's wonderfully encouraging to see you're about two models ahead of me in the same kind of plan for progress with skills -- since I too want to move to cross-section after perhaps one more build (maybe La Jacinthe or La Chaloupe Armée) and then a fully framed model. So I see it is indeed possible to achieve the same level of skill. Wonderful! I love the planking and the finish you have on the hull. Just one thought about the black spots. You were using PVA which is water based. Could there be a possibility of fungus? (As in humidity + warmth = fungus). Hoping 2016 goes well for you and your partner, most notably in health terms, Tony

I bought mine on eBay. You can get 500ml very cheaply. E.g. £6.79. Tony

Interesting discussion on the Jacinthe. I happened to buy the monograph by Jean Boudriot on La Jacinthe last week, and none of the plans of that class of ship show windlass or capstan. There is a lot of discussion about La Jacinthe on the French modelling forum Marine et Modélisme d'Arsenal at http://5500.forumactif.org/f82-la-jacinthe-1823-plans-jean-boudriot, so you might like to ask the question there. See my PM Tony

Thanks for the update, Ulrich. Sounds good. How about some photos? Tony

Great resource! Thanks for posting from Hawaii! Tony

Ron, as a further thought, you might be better served when you've finished the log to assemble it into a pdf file and ask the moderators if it can be posted in the Ship Modeling Resources area of this site. Tony

I agree totally with Mark. This will be a valuable reference log for a lot of people in this growing/emerging field. Thanks for the effort, and keep it up! Tony

Just for interest's sake, I have been using only three dilutions: 1gm:5ml water (served shrouds), 1gm:10ml, and 1gm:30ml. I can see my pack of crystals may well last for all the models I make. Tony

I don't know about Floquil, and I don't know what country you're from (which would make a difference as to advice), but I use ordinary walnut crystal dye in different concentrations for rigging -- as recommended by Frolich in his Art of Ship Modeling. It will stain from almost black to the palest brown imaginable according to your taste. It's mixed with water, which also makes it very easy to handle. It's very cheap, used by carpenters for lots of furniture types, and easily found on eBay (e.g. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Victorian-Antique-Wood-Dye-water-based-wood-stain-Mix-with-Water-50g-/140885995955?hash=item20cd75b1b3:m:mv8_RBbZw1wgVyzhfp6oHaA) Tony

Something I forgot to add to the log was that I discovered too late that it would have been very handy not to have fitted the top mast and the top cap before adding the shrouds. If I had not fitted the top mast and cap, it would have been much easier not only to tie the shrouds very easily, but also to fit the two sets of pendants (mast tackle and back stay) in the correct manner. I have now edited my build log accordingly. Tony

I also really really like all these friends I have on this forum. Must be that warm christmasy feeling from the telly. Tony

Right, you taskmasters, main stay now in really correct position. See the edited post at http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/335-hmc-sherbourne-by-tkay11-–-caldercraft-–-scale-164-1763-a-novice’s-caldercraft-sherbourne/?p=373484. And while I was at it, I noticed the breaking hook on the port backstay which I fixed as well. Thanks again for the help! Tony

Thanks, Dirk. I was puzzling over the position of the mainstay -- especially as I thought it would cut into the rope. Petersson shows it where I have put it but now that you've mentioned it specifically, I am happy to agree and put it down to another of Petersson's or the model maker's inaccuracies. I now suspect he put it there because there wasn't enough room on the cross tree after all the other rigging put there. We don't have pictures of the model he took it from, and the model itself is in middle England in storage. I use TurboCad (TCW) for my drawings, and have lots in relation to the specific parts. Which ones would you be interested in? Which format do you want them in? I can save to DWF, DWG, DGN, DXF, EPS, PDF. Send me a PM and we can sort it out. Tony

Great to see this started, George. I'll be following with intense interest. Tony

For the record, here are the photos of the mainstay in its corrected position! Tony