AntonyUK

Hi Jzwel. Happy birthday and have a good one Looking forward to your next post on the Triton. Regards Antony.

Hello Shipmates. Thanks for your kind words Jeff Another few photos with the Orlop deck fitted into its position. Not yet glued as I have the top surface to sand and clean up. Approx 5mm to trim off the pump house. Temporary spacer plank to mark the amount I need to remove from pump house height. View looking down onto deck. Thanks for looking in Regards Antony.

Hello. I have just read your build log. And I am very impressed with you skill and the model. That is a very nice looking forum/shape of the hull. Well done on such a fine ship. Regards Antony.

Hi Trevor. There are many ways to hide the wireing. As the wire needs very little voltage and current you can use very small single core wire. I have just built the Orlop deck on my Victory and here I lammanated the wires into the beams. This will have a very small loop at the end of the wire. And the LED's have a small hook. And they just hang in place. Another way would be to use foil tape along the beams before planking the decks ( Another member's clever idea ) Another method is to score the timber with a sharp knife then press the wire into the timber with the back of a spoon. Does not work well with cross grain If you are good with knots ... Get two pieces of wire and loop them to make chain. (for the drop to the lantern.) Please add any ideas. Hope this helps. Regards Antony.

Hello Shipmates. Another update. The photos says it all Not yet finished yet Now have the thin Deck timbers to add. View fron the top. Close up. This is a view from the underside. The Wires are for the LED lighting. The last set on the Orlop Deck. Regards Antony

Hi Rowan? This project is very easy and you only need basic soldering expearance. If you solder the wires direct into the Arduino Nano board it is real easy. The resisters are very easy along with the LED's. If you are using surface mount then you need a steady hand as the 1205 size LED's are very small. Regards Antony.

Hi Trevor. Do you have a build log ? Might consider a battle station of similar size in the future. Regards Antony.

Hi Trevor. I made a error when copying.. My Bad. int ledPin[] = { 3,5, 6, 9, 10, 11}; // pwm pins only int ledState[6]; // last state of each led long randNumber; void setup() { pinMode(ledPin[0], OUTPUT); // Just tells the Arduino that this is a output pinMode(ledPin[1], OUTPUT); pinMode(ledPin[2], OUTPUT); pinMode(ledPin[3], OUTPUT); pinMode(ledPin[4], OUTPUT); pinMode(ledPin[5], OUTPUT); randomSeed(analogRead(0)); // seed the random generator with noise from unused pin ledState[0] = random(20, 201); ledState[1] = random(20, 201); ledState[2] = random(20, 201); ledState[3] = random(20, 201); ledState[4] = random(20, 201); ledState[5] = random(20, 201); } void loop(){ for (int i=0; i<=5; i++){ // for each led:// counts from 0 to 5 =6 analogWrite(ledPin, ledState); // set the pwm value of that pin determined previously randNumber = random(-70, 71); // generate new random number and add that to the current value-40,41 ledState += randNumber; // that range can be tweaked to change the intensity of the flickering if (ledState > 200) { // clamp the limits of the pwm values so it remains within ledState = 200; // a pleasing range as well as the pwm range } if (ledState < 10) { ledState = 10; } } delay(100); // the delay between changes } There Just tested it and its fine. Regards Antony.

Hi Ron. I use a band saw and a table saw to cut the wedges. I choose the number of segments I require in the cask. Example 10 degrees gives me 36 segments. 10 degrees gives me 36 segments. 15 degrees gives me 24 segments. 10 degrees gives me 18 segments. 20 degrees gives me 15 segments. 24 degrees gives me 12 segments. The drawing is better than a hundred words :- Wedge cutting.bmp Hope this helps. Regards Antony.

Hello Jzwel. Your English is good by me Nice to have you aboard. The work so far looks brilliant. Regards Antony.

Hello Vorons. Pear should look very nice. The frames are a pain BUT it's worth the hard work and time. Regards Antony.

Hello Daniel. I had a old piece of kitchen work surface which had MDF on the bottom. I turned this over to show the MDF which I can drive screws into. Then I have a sheet of Poleycarbonate 10mm thick. This is pulled into the camber by putting the correct packaging at the edges and using countersunk screws to pull the centre down. Plans can be held in place tith the edge packing. As each deck has a different camber all I need to do is reduce or increase the edge packing for less or more camber. And of course if you lammanate timber it will hold its shape with little or no spring back. I hope this is the information you wanted Regards Antony.

Hello Shipmates. Finished making the main beams for the Orlop Deck. The beams were made up by laminating 2mm thick pieces of timber and assembled on the plan which is curved for the camber. Close up of the joint (not yet cleaned up ) And before anyone with a sharp eye spots it I am building the Deck upside down. (It’s my method) Regards Antony.

Hi. A photo shows what a painted joint looks like Every other Joint is Painted. Close up photo. Regards Antony.

Hello shipmates. I painted the top edges of the wedge before assembling with Matt Black paint to show the joints a little more. Worked for me Regards Antony.

Hello shipmates. Thanks for showing me that. The only issue I had was the cutting of the wedges to the correct angle. But I have that sorted now Produced one today and it turned out spot on. Just need to adjust the size a little and I have my barrels/cask/kegs. Thanks again. Regards Antony.

Hi Jim. HAPPY BIRTHDAY. And again thank you for everything. My Brynes saw is producing excellent quality timber and I hope you have a Quality birthday. Regards Antony.

Hi shipmates. Nigel.... You are spot on with you're analyses of the idea. I put the test piece in the lathe tonight and turned and polished it the put some Danish oil on to show the joins. The joiners are ALL curved the same way. So made another set up slightley bigger with mat black paint between the wedges hopefully to look as if they have been sealed. And I will NOT spiral them Update tomorow. Regards Antony.

Hi. Photos of Method. Barrel shape not yet done. Regards Antony.

Hello Shipmates. That's basically the methods I was looking at The only diffarance being is I cut my wedges to form a compleate wedge and I spiral'ed my wedges onto a mandrel. Thanks for the replys. Regards Antony.

Hi. I have done a search on the forum looking for methods of making wooden barrels/ kegs. The only result pointed me to :- http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/300-le-bonhomme-richard-by-jeronimo/page-7 Post 105 I do have a lathe and a bench saw and I would like to make my own. My question is :- is there a method that we use ?. As I need something like 8 barrels I would like to jig it up and do it properly I am able to cut my timber @24 degrees and to spiral join them to give me 18 segments to make each in barrel. Will post a photo tomorow when they are dryed. Regards Antony.

Hi Jeff. I would go with the timber idea. BTW love the build looks very clean and tidy. Regards Antony.

Wow. That is digging into the archives with so much history coming to the surface. You can add another skill to you portfolio of skills. Master historical researcher. Your drawing look real nice. And it's nice to see that the timber is being prepped for the model Keep it coming ..the resurch is fascinating to read. Regards Antony.

Hello Shipmates. Another small update. The pumphouse with the shot lockers in place BUT not glued because I will trim the height after fitting the Orlop deck into place. Front view. Other side still the front. View from the rear. Shot lockers lids raised. The next two photos are prepping the Orlop deck construction. The mill I used is a Proxxon . These are only test joints on some scrap timber. That’s about it for now. Thanks for looking in. Regards Antony.

Hi. Another link for you. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2806-flickering-lights/ Can use very small surface mount LED's for that scale. Remember to keep the lighting quite dim as it would have been on the real ship. Regards Antony.