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Trussben

NRG Member
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Everything posted by Trussben

  1. Hi Gary the only place that I know that sells really good quality “ WHITE” Holly is Domex, but it’s not cheap! Expect to pay $100 for a piece 1x6x20”. http://www.domexhardwoods.com/catalog/holly-lumber
  2. Hey Gary, Go for it! I like the look, but to purchase really nice Holly that has no grey striations is quite expensive, some of my planking shows a little bit of it even though it was good quality! But when you see it in natural light it really looks great IMO.
  3. Here is the QD transom and aft framing completed for the moment.
  4. Hi All, I was having a lot of issues revolving around the QD Transom piece that I have now figured out and thought I would share with other SWAN-TFFM builders, not knowing if this has been recognized before. On page 11 of TFFM-Vol #2, there is a pattern supplied in 1:48 scale for you to use to cut out your blank with, however it appears it is not the correct size!! Let me explain that I tried using this pattern and kept finding it far to wide compared to my own Pegasus aft framing and I was starting to worry until I decided to check the pattern's width as compared to other drawings in TFFM. If you compare it VS the "elevation of counter timbers" drawing on Page #9 TFFM-Vol #2 you will find the pattern is approx 3 11/32" at its widest point but the drawing is just about 3 3/32" I decided to test it against another drawing on page #182 of TFFM-Vol #2, this shows the Quarter deck beam layouts but it also shows the QD transom on it, and this as well makes the Transom 3 3/32" wide. SO - I copied and made a template using the page #182 transom and this fit almost perfectly to my model. See some pictures below showing the difference in size and what my new one using page #182 looks like.
  5. Hey Greg, Using a 1/16" router bit just leaves a slight round that just needs a quick swipe with a square file to remove. I would of used a 1/32" bit, but its cutting depth capabilities were not long enough to cut deep enough into 16" stock ( 15" + 1" for onion-skinning ). Ben
  6. Nice to see you back building Chris! Looks like you have a good head of steam up now. I think we all know about trying to get free time for modelling.
  7. Now I’m trying to figure out the layout for the stern, I see that I do need to do a bit of fairing to the outer counter Timbers to make them and the inner framing a little thinner.
  8. Two full sets of Counter Timbers coming off the CNC.
  9. No Greg, The frieze prints are in two parts, but I believe I can do a much better job second time around trying to make it as seamless as possible, and I still have the portside to start.
  10. Headworks on the starboard side almost complete, I think i will remove the hair bracket friezes and replace them to try to better match it all together so the seams are less visible.
  11. I’m sure your model will be as excellent as your scratch work is. Yes - Holly lower planking.
  12. Thanks Rusty! Glenn - no secret, just many hours sanding it off using 120/220 sanding sticks and a few small diamond files.
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