gjdale

It seems that time has gotten away from me again! Thanks Bob and Tom for your kind comments and for all of the "likes". On with the show!
 
Hatch (P/N 102)
This is the trickiest part of the build to date. It is made so by the joinery for the hatch, with the Coamings and Head Ledges being joined by “tailed half-lap joints”. This means that the joints are angled in two planes. It took some time to get my head around these joints, and after a few failed attempts I had to walk away for a few days before trying again. Then I got distracted with other tasks around the house and suddenly it was a few weeks before I got back to it.
 
The key to success here is accurate marking out. To make the first half of the joint, measurements were taken from the drawings. I found my set of set-up blocks most useful for this task, along with a marking knife. The pencil was only used to go over the knife lines to improve their visibility. 
 

 

 
The second half of the joint must be marked directly from the first half, and this is the most difficult part. The method I finally succeeded with was to mark a pin prick with the marking knife to correspond with all four extremities of the first half of the joint. Then it was a case of using a ruler and the knife to “join the dots”. Cutting the joints was achieved with a razor saw and a full size, very sharp chisel. By keeping away from the marked lines initially, I was then able to pare to the line with the chisel and make any minor adjustments for a good fit.
 
I got so engrossed in this process that I forgot to take any progress shots. Here is an example though of the joints cut, showing the angles in two planes. This picture is actaully of some “rejects”.
 

 
Once I had satisfactory joints in all four corners, they were glued up and the rabbet pieces cut to size and fitted.
 
The sides of the hatch are vertical for the bottom half, and then taper inwards by one-half inch (actual size). Rather than using a sanding block to achieve this, I used a marking gauge to define the extremities of the taper and then used a block plane to remove the excess material. I used my home-made mini Moxxon vise to hold the piece while I planed the sides, coming in from both ends to avoid breakout on the cross-grain joint.
 

 
Here is the finished Hatch, ready for installation of the grating.
 

 
The grating was then carefully adjusted for a snug fit. I found I needed to sand just the slightest amount off each side of the grating. It was then glued in place and the top surface sanded level with the hatch sides.
 

 
  
I was contemplating how to mark out the positions for the fasteners, when it hit me that the answer was staring me in the face. I simply cut out the scale drawing of the grating and taped it over my grating. I then used my home-made needle point scribing tool to mark the positions.
 

 
Once the pattern was removed, a pencil lead was twirled in the holes and the surface sanded lightly.
 

 
And finally, here is an overview of progress to date:
 

 
That completes all the “easy” part of this build. Next up we commence some lathe work with building of the Capstan body.
 

At the end of the day, they are just numbers so it doesn’t really matter which you use. Where it does make a difference is in tooling - for example a mill or lathe, which will have their lead screws calibrated in either one system or the other (your choice on purchase). In that case, you may need to convert from one measurement system to the other, but then again, if you have a digital readout it again just becomes a matter of dialling in the the right number. 

At the end of the day, they are just numbers so it doesn’t really matter which you use. Where it does make a difference is in tooling - for example a mill or lathe, which will have their lead screws calibrated in either one system or the other (your choice on purchase). In that case, you may need to convert from one measurement system to the other, but then again, if you have a digital readout it again just becomes a matter of dialling in the the right number. 

Thanks Bob,
 
It’s more difficult to describe than to do. Once you can visualise the completed joint and keep that straight in your head, marking the joint extremities on the second half of the joint is just a matter of being slow and methodical, and triple checking everything before cutting. If the marking out is correct, the joint will be a pretty good fit straight off the cut/pare. If the marking out isn’t accurate, you can end up chasing your tail for quite some time trying to get a good fit. In another log, Druxey suggested practising this joint on some scrap wood first. Good advice - my scrap wood just happened to be additional actual stock…….😉

It seems that time has gotten away from me again! Thanks Bob and Tom for your kind comments and for all of the "likes". On with the show!
 
Hatch (P/N 102)
This is the trickiest part of the build to date. It is made so by the joinery for the hatch, with the Coamings and Head Ledges being joined by “tailed half-lap joints”. This means that the joints are angled in two planes. It took some time to get my head around these joints, and after a few failed attempts I had to walk away for a few days before trying again. Then I got distracted with other tasks around the house and suddenly it was a few weeks before I got back to it.
 
The key to success here is accurate marking out. To make the first half of the joint, measurements were taken from the drawings. I found my set of set-up blocks most useful for this task, along with a marking knife. The pencil was only used to go over the knife lines to improve their visibility. 
 

 

 
The second half of the joint must be marked directly from the first half, and this is the most difficult part. The method I finally succeeded with was to mark a pin prick with the marking knife to correspond with all four extremities of the first half of the joint. Then it was a case of using a ruler and the knife to “join the dots”. Cutting the joints was achieved with a razor saw and a full size, very sharp chisel. By keeping away from the marked lines initially, I was then able to pare to the line with the chisel and make any minor adjustments for a good fit.
 
I got so engrossed in this process that I forgot to take any progress shots. Here is an example though of the joints cut, showing the angles in two planes. This picture is actaully of some “rejects”.
 

 
Once I had satisfactory joints in all four corners, they were glued up and the rabbet pieces cut to size and fitted.
 
The sides of the hatch are vertical for the bottom half, and then taper inwards by one-half inch (actual size). Rather than using a sanding block to achieve this, I used a marking gauge to define the extremities of the taper and then used a block plane to remove the excess material. I used my home-made mini Moxxon vise to hold the piece while I planed the sides, coming in from both ends to avoid breakout on the cross-grain joint.
 

 
Here is the finished Hatch, ready for installation of the grating.
 

 
The grating was then carefully adjusted for a snug fit. I found I needed to sand just the slightest amount off each side of the grating. It was then glued in place and the top surface sanded level with the hatch sides.
 

 
  
I was contemplating how to mark out the positions for the fasteners, when it hit me that the answer was staring me in the face. I simply cut out the scale drawing of the grating and taped it over my grating. I then used my home-made needle point scribing tool to mark the positions.
 

 
Once the pattern was removed, a pencil lead was twirled in the holes and the surface sanded lightly.
 

 
And finally, here is an overview of progress to date:
 

 
That completes all the “easy” part of this build. Next up we commence some lathe work with building of the Capstan body.
 

Amazing work, Grant! I've carefully read your method for making the complex joints and I still can't wrap my head around it. I would never have been able to figure that out...way beyond my pay grade!   

It seems that time has gotten away from me again! Thanks Bob and Tom for your kind comments and for all of the "likes". On with the show!
 
Hatch (P/N 102)
This is the trickiest part of the build to date. It is made so by the joinery for the hatch, with the Coamings and Head Ledges being joined by “tailed half-lap joints”. This means that the joints are angled in two planes. It took some time to get my head around these joints, and after a few failed attempts I had to walk away for a few days before trying again. Then I got distracted with other tasks around the house and suddenly it was a few weeks before I got back to it.
 
The key to success here is accurate marking out. To make the first half of the joint, measurements were taken from the drawings. I found my set of set-up blocks most useful for this task, along with a marking knife. The pencil was only used to go over the knife lines to improve their visibility. 
 

 

 
The second half of the joint must be marked directly from the first half, and this is the most difficult part. The method I finally succeeded with was to mark a pin prick with the marking knife to correspond with all four extremities of the first half of the joint. Then it was a case of using a ruler and the knife to “join the dots”. Cutting the joints was achieved with a razor saw and a full size, very sharp chisel. By keeping away from the marked lines initially, I was then able to pare to the line with the chisel and make any minor adjustments for a good fit.
 
I got so engrossed in this process that I forgot to take any progress shots. Here is an example though of the joints cut, showing the angles in two planes. This picture is actaully of some “rejects”.
 

 
Once I had satisfactory joints in all four corners, they were glued up and the rabbet pieces cut to size and fitted.
 
The sides of the hatch are vertical for the bottom half, and then taper inwards by one-half inch (actual size). Rather than using a sanding block to achieve this, I used a marking gauge to define the extremities of the taper and then used a block plane to remove the excess material. I used my home-made mini Moxxon vise to hold the piece while I planed the sides, coming in from both ends to avoid breakout on the cross-grain joint.
 

 
Here is the finished Hatch, ready for installation of the grating.
 

 
The grating was then carefully adjusted for a snug fit. I found I needed to sand just the slightest amount off each side of the grating. It was then glued in place and the top surface sanded level with the hatch sides.
 

 
  
I was contemplating how to mark out the positions for the fasteners, when it hit me that the answer was staring me in the face. I simply cut out the scale drawing of the grating and taped it over my grating. I then used my home-made needle point scribing tool to mark the positions.
 

 
Once the pattern was removed, a pencil lead was twirled in the holes and the surface sanded lightly.
 

 
And finally, here is an overview of progress to date:
 

 
That completes all the “easy” part of this build. Next up we commence some lathe work with building of the Capstan body.
 

It seems that time has gotten away from me again! Thanks Bob and Tom for your kind comments and for all of the "likes". On with the show!
 
Hatch (P/N 102)
This is the trickiest part of the build to date. It is made so by the joinery for the hatch, with the Coamings and Head Ledges being joined by “tailed half-lap joints”. This means that the joints are angled in two planes. It took some time to get my head around these joints, and after a few failed attempts I had to walk away for a few days before trying again. Then I got distracted with other tasks around the house and suddenly it was a few weeks before I got back to it.
 
The key to success here is accurate marking out. To make the first half of the joint, measurements were taken from the drawings. I found my set of set-up blocks most useful for this task, along with a marking knife. The pencil was only used to go over the knife lines to improve their visibility. 
 

 

 
The second half of the joint must be marked directly from the first half, and this is the most difficult part. The method I finally succeeded with was to mark a pin prick with the marking knife to correspond with all four extremities of the first half of the joint. Then it was a case of using a ruler and the knife to “join the dots”. Cutting the joints was achieved with a razor saw and a full size, very sharp chisel. By keeping away from the marked lines initially, I was then able to pare to the line with the chisel and make any minor adjustments for a good fit.
 
I got so engrossed in this process that I forgot to take any progress shots. Here is an example though of the joints cut, showing the angles in two planes. This picture is actaully of some “rejects”.
 

 
Once I had satisfactory joints in all four corners, they were glued up and the rabbet pieces cut to size and fitted.
 
The sides of the hatch are vertical for the bottom half, and then taper inwards by one-half inch (actual size). Rather than using a sanding block to achieve this, I used a marking gauge to define the extremities of the taper and then used a block plane to remove the excess material. I used my home-made mini Moxxon vise to hold the piece while I planed the sides, coming in from both ends to avoid breakout on the cross-grain joint.
 

 
Here is the finished Hatch, ready for installation of the grating.
 

 
The grating was then carefully adjusted for a snug fit. I found I needed to sand just the slightest amount off each side of the grating. It was then glued in place and the top surface sanded level with the hatch sides.
 

 
  
I was contemplating how to mark out the positions for the fasteners, when it hit me that the answer was staring me in the face. I simply cut out the scale drawing of the grating and taped it over my grating. I then used my home-made needle point scribing tool to mark the positions.
 

 
Once the pattern was removed, a pencil lead was twirled in the holes and the surface sanded lightly.
 

 
And finally, here is an overview of progress to date:
 

 
That completes all the “easy” part of this build. Next up we commence some lathe work with building of the Capstan body.
 

It seems that time has gotten away from me again! Thanks Bob and Tom for your kind comments and for all of the "likes". On with the show!
 
Hatch (P/N 102)
This is the trickiest part of the build to date. It is made so by the joinery for the hatch, with the Coamings and Head Ledges being joined by “tailed half-lap joints”. This means that the joints are angled in two planes. It took some time to get my head around these joints, and after a few failed attempts I had to walk away for a few days before trying again. Then I got distracted with other tasks around the house and suddenly it was a few weeks before I got back to it.
 
The key to success here is accurate marking out. To make the first half of the joint, measurements were taken from the drawings. I found my set of set-up blocks most useful for this task, along with a marking knife. The pencil was only used to go over the knife lines to improve their visibility. 
 

 

 
The second half of the joint must be marked directly from the first half, and this is the most difficult part. The method I finally succeeded with was to mark a pin prick with the marking knife to correspond with all four extremities of the first half of the joint. Then it was a case of using a ruler and the knife to “join the dots”. Cutting the joints was achieved with a razor saw and a full size, very sharp chisel. By keeping away from the marked lines initially, I was then able to pare to the line with the chisel and make any minor adjustments for a good fit.
 
I got so engrossed in this process that I forgot to take any progress shots. Here is an example though of the joints cut, showing the angles in two planes. This picture is actaully of some “rejects”.
 

 
Once I had satisfactory joints in all four corners, they were glued up and the rabbet pieces cut to size and fitted.
 
The sides of the hatch are vertical for the bottom half, and then taper inwards by one-half inch (actual size). Rather than using a sanding block to achieve this, I used a marking gauge to define the extremities of the taper and then used a block plane to remove the excess material. I used my home-made mini Moxxon vise to hold the piece while I planed the sides, coming in from both ends to avoid breakout on the cross-grain joint.
 

 
Here is the finished Hatch, ready for installation of the grating.
 

 
The grating was then carefully adjusted for a snug fit. I found I needed to sand just the slightest amount off each side of the grating. It was then glued in place and the top surface sanded level with the hatch sides.
 

 
  
I was contemplating how to mark out the positions for the fasteners, when it hit me that the answer was staring me in the face. I simply cut out the scale drawing of the grating and taped it over my grating. I then used my home-made needle point scribing tool to mark the positions.
 

 
Once the pattern was removed, a pencil lead was twirled in the holes and the surface sanded lightly.
 

 
And finally, here is an overview of progress to date:
 

 
That completes all the “easy” part of this build. Next up we commence some lathe work with building of the Capstan body.
 

I think you’ll find a HUGE interest in a POF kit Chuck. An offering of the quality you have produced with everything you have done  so far will be head and shoulders above anything else available on the market today. Add to that your approach to building and documenting as you go (as in Winnie), and I think you will have a real winner on your hands.

It seems that time has gotten away from me again! Thanks Bob and Tom for your kind comments and for all of the "likes". On with the show!
 
Hatch (P/N 102)
This is the trickiest part of the build to date. It is made so by the joinery for the hatch, with the Coamings and Head Ledges being joined by “tailed half-lap joints”. This means that the joints are angled in two planes. It took some time to get my head around these joints, and after a few failed attempts I had to walk away for a few days before trying again. Then I got distracted with other tasks around the house and suddenly it was a few weeks before I got back to it.
 
The key to success here is accurate marking out. To make the first half of the joint, measurements were taken from the drawings. I found my set of set-up blocks most useful for this task, along with a marking knife. The pencil was only used to go over the knife lines to improve their visibility. 
 

 

 
The second half of the joint must be marked directly from the first half, and this is the most difficult part. The method I finally succeeded with was to mark a pin prick with the marking knife to correspond with all four extremities of the first half of the joint. Then it was a case of using a ruler and the knife to “join the dots”. Cutting the joints was achieved with a razor saw and a full size, very sharp chisel. By keeping away from the marked lines initially, I was then able to pare to the line with the chisel and make any minor adjustments for a good fit.
 
I got so engrossed in this process that I forgot to take any progress shots. Here is an example though of the joints cut, showing the angles in two planes. This picture is actaully of some “rejects”.
 

 
Once I had satisfactory joints in all four corners, they were glued up and the rabbet pieces cut to size and fitted.
 
The sides of the hatch are vertical for the bottom half, and then taper inwards by one-half inch (actual size). Rather than using a sanding block to achieve this, I used a marking gauge to define the extremities of the taper and then used a block plane to remove the excess material. I used my home-made mini Moxxon vise to hold the piece while I planed the sides, coming in from both ends to avoid breakout on the cross-grain joint.
 

 
Here is the finished Hatch, ready for installation of the grating.
 

 
The grating was then carefully adjusted for a snug fit. I found I needed to sand just the slightest amount off each side of the grating. It was then glued in place and the top surface sanded level with the hatch sides.
 

 
  
I was contemplating how to mark out the positions for the fasteners, when it hit me that the answer was staring me in the face. I simply cut out the scale drawing of the grating and taped it over my grating. I then used my home-made needle point scribing tool to mark the positions.
 

 
Once the pattern was removed, a pencil lead was twirled in the holes and the surface sanded lightly.
 

 
And finally, here is an overview of progress to date:
 

 
That completes all the “easy” part of this build. Next up we commence some lathe work with building of the Capstan body.
 

Continuing with the Guns and Carriages - I was trying to decide what kind of monofilament-esque item I'd used as nail/bolt fillers for the carriages.  I started with a few strips from an old broom in the garage, but it ultimately felt too large and out of scale.  Then I tried some bits from an old golf club brush I found sitting around.  Here's a side-by-side comparison - the latter definitely a much better fit. I drilled out holes, filled them in, then shaved them off with a razor.
 
 
 
 
 
   From there, it's back to the assembly line. I did all the hole drilling, quoin affixing, and eye bolt mounting prior to adding the wheels so they weren't handled too much.  Guns were added to carriages after the wheels were mounted. 
 
     
 

 
Still a bit of touching up to do to the eye bolts, rings and some edges of the guns - but I'll wait until I work some of the rigging and do it all at once before they're mounted on the deck.
 
 

I think you’ll find a HUGE interest in a POF kit Chuck. An offering of the quality you have produced with everything you have done  so far will be head and shoulders above anything else available on the market today. Add to that your approach to building and documenting as you go (as in Winnie), and I think you will have a real winner on your hands.

I think you’ll find a HUGE interest in a POF kit Chuck. An offering of the quality you have produced with everything you have done  so far will be head and shoulders above anything else available on the market today. Add to that your approach to building and documenting as you go (as in Winnie), and I think you will have a real winner on your hands.

I would think about omitting the pieces of the qgallery frame that sit against the transom and the hull.   Why would you need it?  Just use the front outside curved timber.  Once the planking is added to the counter it should make it very strong.  It certainly makes cutting it out easier and gives you more room inside gallery.
 
Just a thought.  Similar to this.
 

 


 
 

Thank you Ron, I do have a suitable 1:64 scale figure  in mind for the role, a laser cut substitute part 45 would have been useful tho'.🙂
 
Post Forty-six
 
Modifying the Gallery
Time to clear the deck and get the scroll saw into position.

1488
The first trial to see how the mdf holds up.

1491
So far so good, the mdf has withstood the scroll blade without splitting.

1494
Final finishing is done gently by hand with sanding sticks.

1502
A trial fit.

1503
The forward end is drilled and pinned.

1506
Adding the other patterns which thankfully won’t need replacing.

1510
The line looks good to my eye.

1511
 
I think the modification is doable so I will try one cut from Boxwood sheet.
On any final piece, once it is in place the back and inner sides would be  fined down further.
 
Back to the scroll saw
 
B.E.
02/12/21

 
 

Gentleman, thank you one and all.
 
A short update.  The last item to make for the diorama is the chain hoist.  The process starts with gathering up the materials.  The small chain is 40 links per inch and the larger is 27 lpi.
 

 
 
Slices of styrene tube are slid over 1/16” aluminum.  The load chain (27 lpi) is draped over the tubing and glued so it doesn't slip off.  The wire will be used as a hook to hold the end of the slack load chain.
 

 
 
The hand chain is a continuous loop.
 

 
 
It is draped over the tube.
 

 
 
The excess tubing is trimmed from both ends, a hook is secured to the tubing and paper is then draped over the top to represent a cover.  The lifting hook will be added later once the chain length is determined.
 

 
 
The trolley is made entirely of styrene and extras are made to replace the ones that will jump from my tweezers and never be seen again. 
 

 
 
Enamel paint and pigments.
 

 
 
The trolley sides are glued to the beam. The connecting shaft that the hoist hangs off is inserted between the two sides and the hoist is hung.  The pendant lights that were made previously are located and pushed up through drilled holes in the ceiling.
 

 

 

 
 
The holes drilled into the ceiling for the pendant lights are snug, but not tight.  Additional wood plates placed on top of the ceiling were used to set the plumb of the fixtures by adjusting the shear between the ceiling and plate.  Once plumb was established, the plates were glued to the ceiling and thin CA was applied around the pendant tubes.
 

 
 
The glide switch has two rods with eyes attached to a rocker that changes the switch direction instead of the ropes as shown in a previous post.  It's a seesaw sort of mechanism that is operated by pulling down on the upper eye with a hooked rod.  This is often preferable to the dangling ropes which can become entangled with passing trolleys.  Also visible (barely) in this photo is an improved mezzanine railing that now has brass rails instead of styrene.  I broke (totally destroyed) the original one while fitting the ceiling.
 

 
 
The engine is glued down and the mechanic is already wrenching on it.  The three figures used on this diorama are from Preiser - set #1010249. 
 

 
 
That's it for the interior unless I forgot something.  The exterior lighting is next.
 

 
 
Thanks for stopping by.
 
Gary

Here's my take on weathering the guns.  I started by adding the little emblems from Syren (fiddly little buggers!!) and drilling out a touch hole.  Then (I skipped a step in the photos), I blackened the brass and then sanded off much of the black which leaves some blackening in the crevices and lines.  This is an extra step that I liked during my experimentation phase as it ends up giving a little extra texture/variance to the end look that appeals to me.  I then airbrushed all the guns with a mixture of Vallejo's black and grey black thinned down with a black wash.  This gives a nice color and the thinness allows the emblems and details to stand out really nicely without getting pounded down with paint. This first shot is pre-weathering.
 
 
 
   Finally, Tamiya is my preferred weathering product and I gave each gun a light brush of "soot" to dull the paint, then "rust" to bring out the edges. My goal is to give the guns some character but not make it look as though the crew has neglected their duty in maintaining the equipment.
 
 
 

 
    Still a lot of work to do on the guns and carriages of course - next steps are finishing the carriages, drilling out all the holes, adding the bolts/rings, mounting the guns and starting the rigging.

Post Forty-five
Fitting facia and counter
I first glue the upper counter in position with the facia still temporarily pinned in place.
The gap at the bottom is filled with a narrow Pear wood strip.

1482
With counters dealt with, the facia is removed and re-glued into place.
 
It is a bit of a milestone having the facia in place, it transforms the model into an 18thc  naval ship even in its basic form as at present.
 
 I now reach the the point of a major modification.
It concerns the middle pattern (of three) that form the shape of the Quarter galleries.
This one carries across what would be the gallery space and block the  doorway.

1478
This is an initial template of the piece that would have to replace the solid part 45.
 
I’ll have a play around and see what material works best, possibly Boxwood sheet will provide the makings.
I will start with cutting an example out of mdf and see how I go.
 
Although I may ultimately decide that the result is not worth the effort, I’ve nothing to waste but my own time, and a little material, and I rather like the idea of a little figure making use of the seat of ease.
 
B.E.
01/12/21

Thanks Roger. I really appreciate the comments. And thanks for the likes too.
 
I am starting to put the pieces together. I glued the wheel to the barrel and the stanchions to the beams. I added a small square piece of boxwood to each of the stanchions so I had a supports to hold the plank I will fit between the stanchions. I also made a new piece that I decided to add under the barrel. From the beginning of this project I have wanted to add the tiller rope to the barrel. The only problem is that on the Swan class ships the tiller rope did not go through the quarterdeck, but instead lead to blocks along the inner bulwarks. Well since I have no bulwarks I had nowhere for the rope to go. I knew I didn't want to leave the ends just hanging from the barrel. Recently, on Chuck's Winchelsea build log, he shows a piece of wood under the wheel with two slots for the tiller rope. I liked the look of this piece so much I decided to take some artistic license and make one for this display. This will allow me to have the tiller rope go through the the deck, where I can tie the ends off. This may not be all that realistic but it does solver a problem for me. Is this too much of a stretch? Thoughts?
 
Here is a dry fit of the parts so far. The planks need to be cut to length and I will glue black construction paper to one edge for the caulking. I made treenails from toothpicks that I will add after the planks are installed. I also have the tiller rope made and added a nail to the barrel to hold the rope when I install it. It is just set in the hole for now.
 

 

Second quadrant completed. Of course, lots of sanding remains to be done.... but the overall shapes are there: 
 

 

 

 
I am leaning very strongly in favor of a coppered hull. Copper tiling has always been a fascination for me (the glittering of the metal...) and since Bellona was tiled later in its existence, it makes sense to try to do it. Besides my planking is far from being presentable as such and will require a second planking in the non-tiled sections (above the water line). I also suspect that the bow is going to be even more difficult to plank than the stern...
 
Therefore, I am learning about the tiling process by reading what the members of this forum have done on their models. 
 

 

 

 
The deep blue is the one that matches the best, the English paint used on these period ships.
 
Inside the hull, I am brushing some acrylic resin on the wood, to seal it and increase the bonding strength of the planks to the bulkheads. There is an enormous amount of pressure and tensions taking place and I do not wish the planks to start coming out, in a few months or years. Planking has been done with Thick and Quick Titebond glue (or is it Quick and Thick?) and I trust them to a certain point. The only glue I trust fully is the two components epoxy, slow curing glue.
 

 
Before brushing the resin....
 

 
And after ! I noticed that the lime/poplar wood  provided by CAF Model was occasionally splitting. Soaking that wood into resin is probably a good insurance for the long term. Interestingly, no resin seeped through the hull....indicating that it is waterproof.
 
Just for fun, I could not resist trying the various gun deck pieces: 
 

 
And the Upper deck and misen mast: 
 

 

 
It is getting exciting....
 
Yves
 
 

The 1 1/4" ship's wheel already exists as a mini kit as I mentioned.  So I wont bother going through those instructions again.  They are on my website as a download.
 
But the other parts of the wheels assembly will be in the chapter parts.  You can see the wheel and the other parts below.
 

Note How the discs for the drum have two layers.  You can glue the smaller disc to the larger ones as shown.  The other parts had their char removed.  The forward wheel support is longer than the aft support.  This is done because of the camber of the deck forward to aft.  So after cleaning the char dont glue the feet onto them yet.  Those are the flat pieces or strips shown in the photo above.  Once you test assemble all the parts on the 1/16" brass bar, you should position it on deck to see how it fits.  Adjust the bottom of the two supports (probably the forward longer support) so the wheel is nice and vertical.  You dont want it to lean forward because of the slope of the deck.
 
Once you get those adjusted you can glue the feet into position.
 
To complete the drum...take the 1/4" brass tube and it will fit onto the two layer disc.  Then add the other side to finish it up.  Paint it red.
 
 

I also painted the supports red and the rim of the wheel. You can see in the photo below that the feet have been glued onto the bottom of the supports before painting them.
 

Treat every fitting like it is a model all its own   Treat every fitting as if it is the only project you have to work on….just smaller.  As if it will be displayed on its own.  Dont rush these. 

Cut the brass rod to length and glue the elements in position.  Remember to face those supports in the right direction.  The longer one on the forward end.  Then you can glue it on the model.
 


And the obligatory overall shot of the progress below.
 

 
 
Next up will be the binnacle...
 
Any questions?  Or comments.

Pictures, for some reason they wouldn't load into the previous post.

Well I’m certainly interested Richard - and for a change, I’m in the same time Zone as you (almost). 😊

Post Forty-four
 
That stern business
I had intended to fit the port linings next, but with the stern patterns and Qtr galleries on my mind, I won’t settle until it’s sorted.
I have to admit that I approach this task with a deal of trepidation. I have not actually fitted a Qtr gallery  for over thirty years, Pegasus had a Badge, not a gallery, and that was tricky enough as I recall.
 
This is one of the critical areas of construction with multiple parts requiring to be aligned.
 
Additional self inflicted difficulties arise because my intention is to open up the galleries and install seats of ease, which means a deal of modification to the Quarter gallery patterns.
Whether I can pull this off, or come to the conclusion that it’s not worth the effort I don’t know until I get into the assembly.
 
I had done some preliminary work when I fitted the lower counter, so I will start with the Stern facia inner and work everything from that.
This needs to be high enough to allow for the 1mm  Quarterdeck rail with 1mm to spare.
The Upper counter (inner) requirements will then be clear.
 
The assembly will be looked at concurrently with the Qtr Gallery fitting as the top and bottom edges of the counter are critical to the mouldings that match up with those of the  gallery. There will be a lot of temporary pinning and fitting before I finally commit to glue.
To begin the process I separate all the parts relating to this area so they are handy to check fit as I go along. Identifying, locating, cutting, and sorting all the parts took a surprising amount of time.

1451
The Inner stern facia is pinned into place; tape is used to mark the line 2mm below the point where the bulwark meets the facia. A check is made to ensure the extensions are equidistant each side.
 
The upper counter can now be tried in place.

1469
As can be seen there is a gap between Facia and counter, not unexpected but I need to decide whether to fit the upper counter hard against the facia or fill both sides.

1474
At this point I am also trial fitting the Quarter Gallery pieces to get a feel for how the assembly will  hang together.

1465
I think I will  bevel and butt the upper counter against the facia bottom, the lower gap is less  important as is more easily filled and covered with a moulding.

1462
The line of the galleries suggests to my eye that the positioning is  ok so tomorrow I will glue the facia and upper counter in place.
 
B.E.
30/11/21