gjdale

Thank you all. This model is now finished, here are the final pics including the lower tank and some skin bracing.
 
Here are the parts for the bracing - lots of careful cutting. I cut one side of each piece first, applied a little CA glue and then cut the other side. This prevented the piece from distorting as some of them were only 0.3mm wide and were very difficult to cut :


 
Here are the finished pics :







 
Danny

Looking really sweet Mark. I hope you spent the dime wisely...perhaps on some TicTacs, the international unit of scale measurement! 😉

I'm reserving a front row seat for this build once you start it Mike.
 
On the question of fittings, I have read where some guys have done there own copy chrome plating. The DIY plating kits are relatively inexpensive - look for Caswell plating kits.

The piping and wiring is all done :



This drive chain wasn't east to cut. The chain is only 0.3mm wide and it's also double thickness :

 
 Now it's time to fit the engine into the framework. This will be a real test of my accuracy - there's absolutely NO room for error. Here's the result :


 
Danny

Thought I was ready for the Spritsail Yard but after examining the plans and my model I see I missed a few lines like the Fore Royal Braces.  Did this, added a few more rope coils and did some more dusting. Found that a very soft bristle flat modelers paintbrush works well at dusting the lines, yards and tight places on the deck.  
 
Here are some pics. Having a hard time showing all this rigging. The black background shows the running rigging well. Sorry for all the clutter, have plans to move my work area to another room for more space but that wont happen till long after this build.
 
Jesse
 

All parts fitted to engine and piping started. I'll do all the piping, plug leads etc needed on the engine before fitting it to the framing :




 
Danny

Lots of small bits to make now. Here are some examples.
 
Rocker Covers :

 
18 parts in this valve :



 
Starter Motor :

 
Injector Manifold :

 
Compressor :

 
Oil Pump? :

 
A tricky part to cut, fold and glue :

 
Danny
 

Looking really sweet Mark. I hope you spent the dime wisely...perhaps on some TicTacs, the international unit of scale measurement! 😉

Nicely done Mark. Must get easier from here - if they’re smaller, there’s less wood; ergo, must be easier!😉

Thanks Mark, and to every one else.
 
I'll be starting the next 2 boats in the morning.  I'm going to work them at the same time as it'll save me some repetition time like having to reset the laser for each thickness of wood since I can cut two with one setting.  I'm finishing up tweaking the drawings from what I learned on the first one.  So diving off the deep end again but into familiar waters.

Hi Paul,
thanks for the positive comment,
and thanks to the others for the LIKES.
 
The size of the blocks depends on the diameter of the rope, as stated by J. Boudriot.

The production of the blocks, I do the following
schema:










Quelle: Musée de la Marine Paris – La Crèole
 

 

Now there is also the upper topsail. Everything looks somehow the same, and yet each sail is different, is fastened differently to the respective yards, all have a different line guide.
 





 
 
Joachim

Thanks Paul  Tonkinese frequently change their color significantly starting around week 8 or so, Takita looked very much like the new little one does now when Takita was a little kitten. But it's not predictable, should could end up fairly light colored as she is with small contained points, or she could go the direction of huge points and very dark red hair of Takita.
 
As for the ship, in all likelihood I'm going to rip these brass pieces off and bite the bullet and resand and refinish the lower hull and start over with a material somewhat less perverse. Very annoying but brass just can't be used this way very well, only way to make it work is with actual mechanical connections by drilling holes in the strap and using round-head brass nails. Also annoying as although the straps are still fighting me, the rudder is perfectly positioned and aligned at the moment. Ah well, I went down a path thinking I could work around brass' dislike of glue but that turned out to be a misjudgment. Cue plan B.
 

You are making good progress on your Longboat.  I probably had more tape on my frames than what you have.  It really strengthened the frames and did not cause me any problems in the fairing process.  The tape will be removed before you start planking.

Looking really sweet Mark. I hope you spent the dime wisely...perhaps on some TicTacs, the international unit of scale measurement! 😉

Looking really sweet Mark. I hope you spent the dime wisely...perhaps on some TicTacs, the international unit of scale measurement! 😉

It's been a couple of weeks, but I did manage to get some 'shop time' in this weekend.
 
The four additional 3/32” keel pieces were then fit, following the advice in Chuck’s instructions. I used some scraps of 1/32” material to ensure that these pieces were centred on the 5/32” thick keel. I then traced the keel bolt locations from the plan sheet and used this to mark the bolt locations on the keel. Holes were drilled using a #70 drill bit to provide a tight fit for the kit-supplied 25lb monofilament fishing line that simulates the bolts. These were dipped in glue prior to fixing in place. Once the glue dried they were trimmed with a single edge razor and sanded flush. The whole assembly was then given a coat of satin Wipe-on Poly.
 

 
I then made my first real boo-boo…. When fitting the transom piece, I glued it to the wrong side of the stern post! 😱I didn’t realise this until I went to test fit the single frames with the keel. Fortunately, a little isopropyl alcohol and some patience enabled me to de-bond the joint without any significant damage. I cleaned up the locating slot using some of my Russian micro chisels (thanks Mikhail😊) and re-glued the piece on the correct side. Phew! (Was too busy fixing the boo-boo to take a picture!)
 
The single frames were then prepared just as Chuck advises. I used packing tape to cover the laser cut on both sides of each frame, and then added some reinforcing pieces using some 1/32” x 1/8” cherry strips that I had in my stash.
 

 
I then tested and adjusted these for a snug but not too tight fit in the build board and the keel notches.
 
 
I next made up all of the two-piece frames, again following Chuck’s instructions to the letter. The laser-cut reference line makes this a very simple process. All of these frames were then tested and adjusted in the build board and the keel slots. 
 

 
The frames are now ready for permanent attachment to the keel.

It's been a couple of weeks, but I did manage to get some 'shop time' in this weekend.
 
The four additional 3/32” keel pieces were then fit, following the advice in Chuck’s instructions. I used some scraps of 1/32” material to ensure that these pieces were centred on the 5/32” thick keel. I then traced the keel bolt locations from the plan sheet and used this to mark the bolt locations on the keel. Holes were drilled using a #70 drill bit to provide a tight fit for the kit-supplied 25lb monofilament fishing line that simulates the bolts. These were dipped in glue prior to fixing in place. Once the glue dried they were trimmed with a single edge razor and sanded flush. The whole assembly was then given a coat of satin Wipe-on Poly.
 

 
I then made my first real boo-boo…. When fitting the transom piece, I glued it to the wrong side of the stern post! 😱I didn’t realise this until I went to test fit the single frames with the keel. Fortunately, a little isopropyl alcohol and some patience enabled me to de-bond the joint without any significant damage. I cleaned up the locating slot using some of my Russian micro chisels (thanks Mikhail😊) and re-glued the piece on the correct side. Phew! (Was too busy fixing the boo-boo to take a picture!)
 
The single frames were then prepared just as Chuck advises. I used packing tape to cover the laser cut on both sides of each frame, and then added some reinforcing pieces using some 1/32” x 1/8” cherry strips that I had in my stash.
 

 
I then tested and adjusted these for a snug but not too tight fit in the build board and the keel notches.
 
 
I next made up all of the two-piece frames, again following Chuck’s instructions to the letter. The laser-cut reference line makes this a very simple process. All of these frames were then tested and adjusted in the build board and the keel slots. 
 

 
The frames are now ready for permanent attachment to the keel.

It's been a couple of weeks, but I did manage to get some 'shop time' in this weekend.
 
The four additional 3/32” keel pieces were then fit, following the advice in Chuck’s instructions. I used some scraps of 1/32” material to ensure that these pieces were centred on the 5/32” thick keel. I then traced the keel bolt locations from the plan sheet and used this to mark the bolt locations on the keel. Holes were drilled using a #70 drill bit to provide a tight fit for the kit-supplied 25lb monofilament fishing line that simulates the bolts. These were dipped in glue prior to fixing in place. Once the glue dried they were trimmed with a single edge razor and sanded flush. The whole assembly was then given a coat of satin Wipe-on Poly.
 

 
I then made my first real boo-boo…. When fitting the transom piece, I glued it to the wrong side of the stern post! 😱I didn’t realise this until I went to test fit the single frames with the keel. Fortunately, a little isopropyl alcohol and some patience enabled me to de-bond the joint without any significant damage. I cleaned up the locating slot using some of my Russian micro chisels (thanks Mikhail😊) and re-glued the piece on the correct side. Phew! (Was too busy fixing the boo-boo to take a picture!)
 
The single frames were then prepared just as Chuck advises. I used packing tape to cover the laser cut on both sides of each frame, and then added some reinforcing pieces using some 1/32” x 1/8” cherry strips that I had in my stash.
 

 
I then tested and adjusted these for a snug but not too tight fit in the build board and the keel notches.
 
 
I next made up all of the two-piece frames, again following Chuck’s instructions to the letter. The laser-cut reference line makes this a very simple process. All of these frames were then tested and adjusted in the build board and the keel slots. 
 

 
The frames are now ready for permanent attachment to the keel.

There are tabs there Jim - they just don't show well in the photos. I may re-visit these anyway before I glue the frames to the keel. Thanks for the close scrutiny - it's nice to have a pair of eagle eyes checking things. It certainly wouldn't be the first time that someone has saved me from myself! 😊

Had company for another week, and haven't gotten much done but am plugging away at the #%##@@#$@#$ rudder. Well not the rudder itself, it's ok, but the damned brass gudgeon straps that go on the hull, I have been driven past distraction to insanity.
 
Star Fleet personnel couldn't glue brass. I don't know why all frying pans aren't made out of brass, because nothing sticks to the stuff. Not even lacquer primer on a cleaned surface, just handle it for a few seconds and pieces will fall off. GAH!
 
I made the tiller as close as I could to one of the Tony's contemporary models, but this kit is designed with the tiller going around the top of the rudder rather than inserted into the rudder head as I see in the contemporary models. It's done except for a flat clear coat on the tiller.




 
In other news, I had lost my previous Dockyard Supervisor last year, her name was Takita. She sat in my lap pretty much every minute I was home for 16 years, because I was not competent to do much of anything without her input.

Yesterday I went to visit the new Dockyard Supervisor, who is also Tonkinese like Takita, but four weeks old. In two months when she is 12 weeks she will begin her education into how ridiculous humans are and how they desperately need cat supervision at all times.

 

Looking really sweet Mark. I hope you spent the dime wisely...perhaps on some TicTacs, the international unit of scale measurement! 😉

Looking really sweet Mark. I hope you spent the dime wisely...perhaps on some TicTacs, the international unit of scale measurement! 😉

Looking really sweet Mark. I hope you spent the dime wisely...perhaps on some TicTacs, the international unit of scale measurement! 😉

Nicely done Daria! Good to see you’ve got Dad back to work with you. 😊