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Baker

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Everything posted by Baker

  1. I also follow along. If there are any questions about the IV. Just ask 😉
  2. Thanks for comments and likes 👍. Of course anyone is free to use this method. But as already mentioned correct or not? Who knows.
  3. Nice work Coincidence? Before she was baptized Golden Hind she named Pelican 😉
  4. Thanks. I get English lessons for free on this forum 😉👍 Thanks. Bringing this machine back to working condition gave me great satisfaction All sails are stitched and sewn. Now the bonnets are tied. I probably misunderstood the drawings and all this knotwork is not historically correct. But it looks neat (to me). And there's a logic to it The bonnet is very quick and easy to remove. Just loosen the rope on the left side and pull . All the rope come loose and the bonnet falls off the sail. Drawing/result method : Make holes "sewing" Sewing an "eye" to both the sides of the sail. tie up (both sides) front and back All sailes (except the spritsail) Made cleats (D18 / 2) Cleats glued on the yards. Thanks for following, likes and comments
  5. See you and the 170V back soon. Ps Here's Belgian beer, wine and cheese. vermont not, I have to go to the shop first
  6. Indeed, My dots are for scale 1/45. The hardness and sharpness of the pencilpoint are indeed very important. (I used up a lot of pencils...)
  7. Nice work Steven. Somewhere in Norway while on vacation (I don't know where exactly). 2 dark colored replicas (vikings). The nails are only slightly visible on the outside and on the inside. Another one Have you ever thought of making a small dot with a pencil?
  8. Thanks Christian, Antwerp is indeed a nice city. Actually there are 2 model shops in Antwerp. I have the luxury of having both of them "close by". Problems are the traffic jams around Antwerp. If you want to go to the other bank of the Scheldt, a few hours delay is no exception In the meantime, stitching and sewing continues. With a new mizzen sail (messed up the first one)
  9. This could be the battery (I cut mine in half especially for this picture 😉)
  10. Welcome to MSW.
  11. Very, Very, nice work Mati. Congrats
  12. Vacations over and back to real life. Read all this on vacation. https://www.hnsa.org/manuals-documents/age-of-sail/the-elements-and-practice-of-rigging-and-seamanship/sail-making-vol-i/ (HNSA) https://www.hmsrichmond.org/sailmker.htm https://textileranger.com/2016/08/01/even-more-sail-history/ (textiles) http://www.bruzelius.info/Nautica/Rigging/Sails/Wasa-sails.html Available info 16th century : virtually nothing; 17th century : some; 18th century and later : good. All this is internet info, so it could be wrong Thread thickness : Vasa would have had an average of 10 threads per cm. Converted there should be about 450 threads per cm on a scale of 1/45 (impossible) Tabling : from a few inches (sailmaker) to a detailed description (HNSA page 93) Clotchs width : 24 inch (sailmaker) 23-30 inch (textiles) (bolt) ropes above and around the sail (HNSA page 95) Very nice sails can indeed be made with the silkspan, modelspan. But personally I don't like to see them on a wooden 16th century model. That's why I continue my my cotton. I think I found something to make the texture less rough. First :stitching seams "hem" (bad English ?? ) "omzomen" (in Dutch) and glue with diluted pva sew, sew, sew... Then smear the sail on both sides with colorless shoe polish ( beeswax and carnauba wax, wow) result Not quite yet what it could be, but better than the diluted black wash test (bad picture) Thanks for comments, likes and following
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