Baker
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Everything posted by Baker
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Indeed, looks very good. Thanks for the advice Michael 👍. I did not use Gorilla CA gel, but CA gel from another brand (Pattex, easier to get in this part of the world). I was a bit skeptical about this fancy plastic bottle at first. But with the 2 "squeezers" on the side, dosing is very easy. no hassle with needles or toothpicks. Just a little squeeze and always the right dose in the right place. The thin polyester thread is also lightly treated with the Tamya glue . Schrouds in place. Ratlines, The Model shipways Mayflower instruction (so much better dan the instructions with the Billings Vasa.) Very helpful to me, now I finally understand what clove hitches are... Ratline spacing. 7.5 mm at scale 1/45 is about 33.7cm in reality here they found 12" to 15" Start "Ratlining" Knotted, glued, cut, and lightly treated with diluted matte black Result Thanks for following, comments and likes
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- galleon
- golden hind
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Greetings from the shores of Lake Michigan!
Baker replied to Jayhawk's topic in New member Introductions
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Wheels ...Are very important 😳 A tank without wheels, is like a pub without beer 😜
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Nice color.
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And welcome back
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☕ cheers with a cup of tea (it is now morning here) Nice work 👍
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Nice work !
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A good way to find Bounty's. Kit build logs from 1751-1800 and search in "This forum"
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Very good. Then we can go fishing North Sea shrimps. An eat "tomaat garnaal" (tomato with shrimp). And Belgium fries ??
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A challenging project. Good luck
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Beginner mistake
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👍👍 What Jack said.... +2 Or some matte varnish And, nice work
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The first steps in rigging. The idea is to follow the drawing and the Vasa as examples. The drawing is how it should apparently be perfect. The Vasa follows almost completely with some minor deviations. (And someone will see his work in some of the photos). Wire comes from Amati and Gutermann. 1 mm of Amati is used on the mizzen mast. 1.3mm Amati will be used on the fore and main mast. The Gutermann wire is about 0.5 mm and is used for the deadeyes. Black for the schrouds and natural for the deadeyes. A "U" bent wire was made to hold the deadeyes in the clamp First 2 schrouds. Black or naturel.. Naturel This is what the result is. The naturel rope has had a wash with thinned mat Black Knots yet be glued with diluted PA glue and then cut away the excess wires I will not continue on this before Saturday or sunday, If anyone here sees something wrong, "shoot". Thanks for following.
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Red, excellent choice 👍 Try painting the inside of the cannon ports one with black or dark grey (Only the back where you glue the canon on ). Then you create "depth" in these holes. (Start with one if you want to try this)
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Roter Löwe 1597 by Ondras71
Baker replied to Ondras71's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Unfortunately not. I have often asked myself this question, but have not yet found a proper solution. Because I'm gonna get in trouble with my Pelican build with this. -
A small update Two hatches were made in between production of the military models. The hinges were metal color first. Didn't like this and later painted them in white and green. I also made a crown while building the Tudor rose. After hesitating for a long time to ad it or not on the model, it was also placed above the rose. And the first steps in rigging immediately went wrong 😳 Corrected Thanks for following
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Roter Löwe 1597 by Ondras71
Baker replied to Ondras71's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
As far as I have found, there are no belaying pins on ships from your period. Not on racks or in the railing. Van de Velde (Peter) was born in 1654. Suppose he only started painting ships when he was about 20 years old, then we are in 1674. Perhaps he took ships from this period as an example. It may be that this arrangement is correct in the second half of the 17th century (dont now), but certainly not at the end of the 16th century. If you build exactly according to your plan (competition) then this explanation is only informative. Then you just have to follow the plan. And you succeed very well in this Ondras.
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