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Everything posted by Baker
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A long time ago I bought a resin model of an M29 Weasel at an IPMS exhibition. The idea was to use this model as an example and to make a series of Weasels. The construction stopped for reasons I no longer remember. The unfinished models went in a box in the closet and the magazines that served as information were later also lost (sold). Recently, the Weasels unexpectedly reappeared while searching for parts for the Centurion. And after searching the internet I found enough info to restart this build. http://www.lzmodels.com/135-American-M29-weasel.html https://lzmodels.wbs.cz/35501/m29_instructions.pdf http://www.lzmodels.com/135-American-M29C-Weasel.html https://lzmodels.wbs.cz/35503/m29c_instructions.pdf This build will be slow, making a series of models is very time consuming. So, this build will only be continued if other models require the glue or paint to dry. But with time, patience and plastic this build will be finished. And now I have a good reason to finish this project, MSW members are watching 🧐 General info of the Weasel family https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M29_Weasel Current state of the models and my new source of info. The scratch chassis were then made of plastic sheet. For the time being, there is even no idea how the tracks will be made. To be continued
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Leftovers from all those kits i have build. Neatly sorted of course . Finishing the Cenurion. Painting al the metal parts an the other colors. Most metal parts and some parts of hull and turret receive a wash with thinned brown "rust" Some dry brushing with sand Glued on the base plate with a wash of thinned black and tagged. Left the basic kit with some extra detail (build years ago) And this is not a Mk.8 as Airfix writes, but a Mk.5. And right the converted Mk.1 Thanks for following, comments and likes. I hope you all enjoyed this journey in converting a plastic tankmodel.
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Free advise, If you want to let the tracks sag on the wheels, there is a simple trick. Tie down on the wheels with black rope. Simple and clean, and if you really don't like the result, just cut ithe rope loose again. The 6 yellow arrows are knots, the red is position of the rope. Works also on your Panther
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Nice work Windows : post 169 of the Pelican
- 42 replies
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- first build
- artesania latina
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Base color and decals. As you can see, the air intake was first painted black. This later gives a (false) idea of depth. Base color (olive drab) The search for decals Match boxes full of decals. I need a T (tank) number that starts with a 3. And a name and something else After a dry brushing with light grey, the decals are applied, letters and numbers come from different sources. (base plate is work in progress) Not a 100% match but fairly credible. To be continued.
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Got this idea from the Batavia and Duyfken replicas. These are 2 links to pictures on the internet https://www.modelships.de/Museums_and_replicas/Batavia/gPICT0554.jpg https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5684/30935046281_9dfecd3598_z.jpg How i build them starts in post 429
- 756 replies
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- galleon
- golden hind
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Installing the tracks and side skirts. Cutting the axes that are too long (And didn't cut my fingers this time ) The tracks are too short (longer chassis) They are now joined with staples (Cheating) Removing some track teeth So that they slide on the idler wheel ( again cheating) Tracks in place Cheating (3th time) with a tooth pick) The side skirts Turret and antennas glued Ready for painting Thanks for following
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Small update. Installing the mastfeet (mastfoot) I first had the idea to replace some of the bolts of the mast feet with eye bolts. But later decided not to do this, just bolts. The fore and bowsprit foot was a bit complicated, and i needed three parts for this. Mizzen mast Main mast, with pumps installed Fore mast and bowsprit (pumps are not glued here) Thanks for following
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- galleon
- golden hind
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Introducing Colin. Currently living in South East England.
Baker replied to colpatben's topic in New member Introductions
Nice models -
I also wondered why the wale has this shape. The only reason i can think of : Is the position between the capstan (normally stands on the deck behind the main mast) Only if the deck follows the shape of the wale. Then the capstan can be used for lifting the anchor and the yards of the main and fore mast. In a very simple drawing explained
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Maybe this was an early form of seats of ease (seats of "not so" ease 😉)
- 325 replies
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- fluit
- abel tasman
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The wheels tracks and side skirts. Extending the kit's side skirts was not a good idea. So new are made. All parts are prepainted. Because the model has side skirts there will be little visible of the wheels, suspension, tracks etc. The return rollers are certainly hard to see. So I don't pay much attention to them. All "axes" have different lengths. Will be adjusted later after drying The sprocket need to be adjusted So that all wheels are in line. A few drops of CA glue. This significantly shortens the drying time. With these old stiff tracks you would otherwise have to wait days for all the glue between axles and wheels to harden. Ready for track mounting and clean up the axes. The tracks are of course too short because the hull has been extended ... ( No worries ) And, i invested in some mobile artillery. And some sheet and round strip Thanks for following
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