john2013

and thank you Jack for taking the time to post your appreciation
 
Pleased you enjoyed it and I hope you found it of some use.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

Yes and since they will be covered it doesnt make sense to mess with them.
 
Chuck

after a long break of a year due to garden and house renovations (and 1/35 ww2 armour) back to the vic! Wasn't happy with the yellow stripes so re did them using tamiya masking tape while also realigning them especially at the stern. Billings had the rear gun ports too high so the stripes looked wrong when you followed the gunports!

 
also started on the gunport lids.
 

 thanks for all the views and comments during the build so far.
 
Keith
 

Sherry,
 
I just tripped into this thread because I, too, am building this beautiful ship.  I must say that your work is truly astounding!  I must comment about the "history" of this ship as stated in the manufacturer's comments and on this site.  While it is true that a ship maned San Felipe was in the Spanish Armada, it wasn't the ship both you and I are building.  Our San Felipe may or may not have been built, but the design is clearly late-17th century, perhaps as late as the 1690 date stated, but this ship could not have existed during the times of the armada, which happened in 1588, or 102 years before the stated date of building.  That said, it is clear that, at the very least, the ship we are modeling does have the general physical characteristics of Spanish 100 gun ships-of-the-line, in terms of hull shape, length, draft, and other proportions.  Therefore, I believe that the ship possibly/probably existed.
 
Again, I am amazed by your skills!
 
Bill

Oh Sherry! I'm so sorry to hear of that. The only consolation I can give is that wood is very forgiving and very repairable. You might recall that Danny had a similar oops with his Vulture a while back and managed to create an undetectable repair job.
 
Good luck with the repairs - I'm sure you'll get plenty of advice if you need it.

Excellent progress today!
 
Glued the crosstree assemblies onto the fore and main masts and replaced the shrouds that I had previously removed. Rethreaded all of the shroud lanyards and just need to seize the ends around the shrouds. I'm pretty much back to where I was before the accident. After that it's back to finishing off the ratlines again. Never thought I'd be glad to be back to ratlines....!

She's looking wonderful Christian, what a fine model you are creating.
 
I had similar issues with the Bowsprit cap on my Pegasus and ended up scratch building it from  boxwood. The main issue was that the cap should be wider and the hole off centre to allow for the Jack staff to be accommodated on the Starboard side. Apart from this the kit provided part was of poor stuff and could not survive the rigours of shaping the hole to allow for a vertical fit of the piece.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

He did it on the ship (see page 31 of this log). The difference in colour and appearance of the stain as it is now compared to the freshly applied stain is quite dramatic....
I can imagine that Remco is a bit down....
Jan

Michael, 
Sincere thanks for those very kind words. I've enjoyed following your beautiful builds (and learned a lot in the process). 

Just remind yourself, Dave, the good doctor not only has the training to know where your bodily orifices are, he ALSO has access to sharp, pointy instruments.

I have painted thin wire next to wood with the tip of a toothpick but the solution mentioned by Hans & Peter might be better.

And THAT, my friends, is how the MASTERS do it.

I don't go on a vacation anymore !!!!!!!!
When I go and I come back, Sherry has an update....
And a great one !!!!!!!
Looks fantastic Sherry !!!!!!!!!
 
( sorry Anja , you have to go alone on vacation  )
 
Sjors

Looking very good, but ... those wheels on deck ? I dont think so. Not real. Still looking very good

Very nice indeed Jesse, the wood tone looks great against the black.

Timberheads and Bowsprit Chock
 
The Bollard Timbers are topped with "Knightheads" - decoratively carved tops that were used for fastening some of the forward Running rigging. I carved these with an Xacto knife and round needle file :
 

 

 
 
Next I "spot-glued" the Bollard Timbers to the stem and cut the opening for the Bowsprit into them. This was finished off with the same sliding sanding tool I used for the step in the top of the stem :
 
 

 

 

 
 
The Bowsprit Cross-Chock is a deceptively difficult piece to get right due to the many different angles involved. The picture below shows it just after fitting - it hasn't been fully trimmed to match the surrounding timbers yet :
 
 

 

Notable nivel de su obra,felicitaciones,es una inspiración para mi,espero llegar a construir su modelo 

Flags are ready for installation on the model.

Thanks Jason, Julian, Fred and the "likes". 
 
Julian: Yes, the quarter badges get filed to fit, as per Caldercraft's instruction so they lay across the wale properly. I used epoxy on both the stern gallery and the quarter badges, as CA would have likely fogged the clear parts. 
 
Fred: Have you posted a build log? I'm sure everyone would be happy to help with any specific advise you need. Although I'm far from a master craftsman in this art, I do have four builds under my belt, so experience does play a part. Also, as I've noted a few times in the log, I'm willing to take the time to re-make parts (and it has been a few...) I'm unhappy with. So not everything you see here is the first effort! My windlass is a good example. Continued best of luck on your build. 

Some quick updates of recent works before Christmas. 
 
Rudder & Deck Modification
 
Rudder 
I've done the rudder together with its hinges over the weekends, and also the painting.  The rudder was done by using three 5mm x 5mm walnut strips, and tapper the last one to get into shape.
 

 

 

 
Then, I continued to the hinges. 

Due to my silly mistake on the hull planking, I had to widen the hinges so that they can fit to the hull. Pictures below show the thicker hull compared to the rudder, not so noticeable from both sides; but from behind, it's really obvious.
 

 
Here you can see the mistake of the planking... the sunken keel 
 

 

 
Deck Modification
For the deck, I've decided to remove the gangways at the waist area. I also had some times to put some planking on, and cut the skylight portion off.  Anyway, I've a little bit concern on the ladder position of the quarter deck.. My current plan is to locate the ladders facing towards bow direction and end between 2 guns, but I can't find any ship has similar design. Or should I make a jog plank like the HMS Pegasus (or Ian's modification)?? Hope anyone can help
 


 
As previously mentioned, the bow of ship as shown on the box is different from the instruction. There are two gun port lids instead of just the ladder. I'm following the box's version  and this is how she looks like now
 

 
This should be the last update of this year and since I'm going off for a short vacation in Thailand again tomorrow (actually in few more hours ).. so, wish you all have a Merry Christmas in advance!!
 

 

I sand a little bit after every four or five planks.  Then I apply one coat of wipe-on-poly.  It helps to keep it clean with the wipe on poly.  Then after the entire side is planked....its sanded down and finished again.  Then once again after treenailing.

RonaldB - Hi - yes the windows were a scratch built but not sure what 'resign sloops' are but if they are not in the box then I either bought them or made them

Wish you well with your Supply build and will look forward to it with interest and can certainly help you if you require any as I am sure the others on here who also have built Supply will like to help.

Regards

Doug

Nice.  Are those door handles I see?

Hello Adriaan,
 
It's great to see you back in the shipyard mate and posting.
 
The G/F has some very graceful lines and I know you will do her justice with a very fine paint job, once rubbed down she's going to fantastic.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Update
Just a photo of a part of the gun poorts. All will be like this