reklein

This is my 1st build log on MSW and 3rd build to date. The kit was a gift from my wife who apparently found a print-out lying around in a strategically visible place. Intent going in was to follow the detail instructions provided on DVD, be as clean as my noob skills allow, but be creative with how the ship is finished. Not attempting to produce a faithful reproduction of the actual Hermoine. Experimented with a dark brown shoe cream on the gun deck. 
 
No big issues during planking, pics are after initial sanding. This was my 1st build without a 2nd finish layer of planks so made more effort to get tight joints. Was a bit nervous following the instructions and not having the keel installed during planking to be able to see if I was getting a nice fit with the keel. On my last kit, deviated from the instructions and installed the keel ahead of where instructed to.  
 
Decided to see how the hull turned out stained, could always paint over if not satisfied. Happy with the results at this point.

If I was going to keep the stain it needed satin poly and my master carpenter brother in-law told me to use Scotchbrite rather than sandpaper between coats. Had to order online so made the mistake here of going ahead fabricating and installing the gun port moldings, too impatient for the Scotchbrite to arrive. Pic below is after 5 coats of poly. 

After 1st visit to the hobby shop and art supply big box store, came back with Naphthol Red from Golden for the port moldings but after doing the ports on the open gun deck didn't like the color. Re-painted with Red Oxide (shown) so had to paint over the already installed moldings on 10 ports. Not that clean, guess I will just have to live with it and learn.

As my deck is a darker shade, used Titan Buff on the quarter round moldings. Was my 1st time using Artesania's micro-shaper for the moldings, it was easy to use and worked well. Might also use the Buff color on the cap rail moldings, will decide after installing the final additional planks on the upper hull.
 
 
 

I rechecked the patterns and both side patterns match the top view patterns  and the plan sheet. The bulkhead former does not match the plans or template. Not to worry though. Check your bulkhead former against you template. My plans may have been miscopied. Just have to be a guideline. Even the very first former is off from former #24. Gotta get the grass mowed will post again this eve.

OK here are some poor photos of my stern framing. Chuck was right, very fragile. I'm just about ready to start a little planking.Lots and lots of small pieces of wood.Am using an exacto razor saw and miter box for most. For the gunnel blocks there are some 40 identical pieces for the gunport uprights those I cut on the scroll saw.

I think I posted this before, but, I wanted to put the Donald McKay in big water..but not so big she could not be displayed.
 
I used this painting of the Cutty Sark as an example...and plenty of film of ships traversing big water.
 I simply placed the hull in a wooden box and filled it full of expanding foam.  First I positioned it..then I cut the foam to suite the look and I then covered that with fast set dental plaster.  I then carved the waves and created the final look.
Then came the real trick...painting the waves to mimic the translucency  of deep green water.  I then capped off the white caps with extreme white.  I detailed the waves with the tell tell signs of foam and exaggerations one would expect from active moving ocean water.
 
Here are some images.
 
The closeup was taken before the final white and gloss was added(Note the tape around the hull to prevent it from being captured by the plaster.
 
Rob
 
 

Holy cow !!! That first pic in the series gave me the impression that a large fish had died on your work table and only the bones were left. Then I continued looking and found a wonderful piece of workmanship.  

And ANOTHER thing... these outfits (like Shapeways) have set up so that you can sell your own designs in your own shop... they handle the web work, order taking and fulfillment, and send you a check every month. Sweet.
I got started in it just to make my range of cowl vents available... those nasty little vents, about the hardest part to make on any ship model!
 
The examples below are on a 1:32 ocean salvage tug.
 
 

Kurt-
Sorry I couldn't make it to Manitowoc to give that talk!
 
My advice to any fine modeler: Do NOT waste money on "affordable" home 3D printers... they are frustrating to use, and produce poor quality parts. Instead, take your designs to a commercial house like Shapeways or iMaterialise, where they have spent MILLIONS on top quality equipment... parts will come out quickly and much nicer than anything a home machine can produce.
 
Here is my latest 3DP project, an animated Hicks marine engine in 1:8 scale. Mostly 3D printed, with a little PE and traditional machining. Even the brass parts, including the prop, were 3D printed. Well actually, the waxes were printed, and then fed into the traditional investment casting process. 
 
 
 

Hello there
 
First Post here and stepping on stage with great trepidation as I've already seen many scratch builds posted and by-and-large with a great more attention to detail than I'm prepared to devote!
 
Having said that I'm still pretty pleased with this model and its recipient, a life long friend, is ecstatic ... so there!!
 
OK, I've only been scratch building for about 15 years and have only ever built one kit ... a Billings Dragon, and mostly scratch build racing cars from the 50's.   When I felt my skills were adequate I did a half-hull of our own sailboat then a series of half-hulls for friends then eventually my oldest pal said he'd prefer a FULL hull instead (greedy b*gger) of his "baby", a Trojan 36 Sport Fisherman.    No plans were available so I developed my own from various suitable photos on the inter-web and supplemented them with MANY visits to the boat where I photographed every inch of it with a tape measure stretched out for scale.
 
I usually build in a composite called Renshape which, if you haven't heard of it, is a product made for pattern-making.   It is very expensive but wonderful to work with as it takes fine details with ease.  However, my supply had diminished and I wanted to get started.   I had a brainwave (brain-fart?) one day when my neighbour was having a set of stairs made for him that used a new synthetic wood that looked remarkably like Renshape ... a true composite and waterproof.    A few off-cuts were "liberated" one night ... and so it began.
 
I screwed/glued together enough pieces to give me the requisite hull ... 

then went at it with whatever grinding tools I had at hand ... it wasn't pretty.    Much Bondo and fillers were applied and eventually it resembled his hull.

A deck was added and ever more fillers applied.

The superstructure was filled in with cardboard

and the complex shaping of windows began using those little Arborite/Formica samples.

One doesn't realize how complex a hull shape can be until you try to replicate it!
 
Coaming around the stern cut from mahogany plank.   White panelling from more Arborite samples

Swim platform assembled from tiny strips of mahogany
 

Steering wheel from scrap aluminum (no I didn't have a machine lathe at this time)
 

Seats fabricated from Renshape and aluminum scraps

I practised silver soldering when many of the stainless metalwork was made ...

Hand made all the 90 and 120 degree fittings needed for the handrails
 

Aft deck in finished state

OK, I won't bore you with any more detail but fire away if there are any questions.
 
The finished model ...
 






Thanks for looking in.
 
Frank

I am all for building machines and accessories myself - if they can do something a commercial product cannot do or cannot do with the desired precision. Wood has its (beautiful) uses, but makeing machine tools from it is one of its less desirable uses. When I saw the original post, I was thinking that there x-y-tables and drill-stands out there on the market in exactly the right dimensions that would cost just a bit more than the materials that go into such a home-grown machine. I would rather spend the time to tweak these into something reasonably precise - as one may need to do with these Chinese products.

Grainger is one of the most expensive places for buying anything if you don't have a high-volume corporate account.  I would shop elsewhere, e.g. McMaster-Carr (mcmaster.com) .  A casual search shows 3/8-16 LH thread rod at about $6.24 per 6 ft length.  (By the way, I would use 1/4-20 rod, because each full turn of the handwheel would be 0.050")  That said, I find it difficult to believe that the cost of the hardware parts would amount to several hundred dollars.  Most of them could be found in a hardware store or scavenged, and the knobs & handwheels could be shopmade easily.  MDF could be used for the base and arm, and likely would be better than plywood anyway because it is heavy, and at these dimensions it won't warp if varnished/shellaced.   A little ingenuity goes a long way.  

It would also be helpful to go to the Sherline website (sherline.com) and read through some of the thoughts about precision and manual & methods of setup of their tools.

I checked into buying parts for that very article. After paying $45 for a half sheet of ply and then going on to locating and pricing the other parts I would have had several hundred dollars invested. Check out the Grainger catalog prices for those fancy knobs and left handed threads etc. Just not doable for me. Rather buy a premade mill for those prices. I have to admit I was smitten by the Idea that I might be able to build something like that though.

Holy cow !!! That first pic in the series gave me the impression that a large fish had died on your work table and only the bones were left. Then I continued looking and found a wonderful piece of workmanship.  

Holy cow !!! That first pic in the series gave me the impression that a large fish had died on your work table and only the bones were left. Then I continued looking and found a wonderful piece of workmanship.  

hi again all, using longridge as a reference altered/ updated the billings plans as they either simplified or missed a lot of rigging! Also attached and trussed lashed the breeching ropes and added the block and tackles on the quarter deck - not sure whether to leave these or remove and just leave the breeching ropes. Added the billing brass belaying pins- none of the hammock netting cranes are glued in place yet.






have fun all and thanks for the views and likes- always appreciated.
 
Keith

Thanks again for the likes, comments and views everyone. Painted the belfry, added the brass bell, carved and filed the supports for the skid beams from square section limewood then stained using ronseal dark oak stain/ varnish. Also added the kevels (billings didn't actually include the kevels for the main yard lifts so added these). Need to start thinking about adding fastenings for the rigging too before i start the hammock nettings. The rail at the front of the quaterdeck isn't actually glued in place yet.
 


have fun all and happy modelling all.
 
Keith
 
 

painted the skid beam assembly and finally got it fastened in place. Next job is the supporting pillars- also stained the pin rails and assembled the ladders into the waist- added a piece of veneer to the outside edge to disguise the slots in the ply sides to them.
 

 

also need to paint the belfry black.
 
have fun all and thanks again for the views and likes everyone.
 
Keith

hi again all- made the rest of the chainplates using jigs similar to the deadeye jig. Not actually fastening them until after painting them black. Also decided just to buy some brackets as opposed to making them
 


 

take care all and have fun.
 
keith

Hello friends.
Frames stand.
Karl
 
 
T E I L  3

Hello friends,
numeros broken frames (Thicknes 3,0 mm) and also a lot of curses
arranged me the model in the graduation 1:36 (Frames thickness 4,0 mm)
as across section with inside removal to build.
However only half of the ship with a lenght 0f 780,0 mm.
Regards
Karl
 
( Sorry Google Translator)
 
 
Part 1

Just an update on the barge prototype.  Work has continued since I got back from Annapolis.  It was quite inspiring.  Compare some of the images of the contemporary barge model.  It was very helpful being able to examine it close up.  The riser and stretcher timbers have been added.  All are laser cut.  Then the forward platform.
 
I am now test fitting the thwarts in position.   These are all just dry fit.  No glue.....yet.   The thwarts are all laser cut with etched trim.  There are little notches laser cut on both sides to accept the center board between each thwart.  I will dry fit them all together and then glue them in afterwards.  I want to ensure a proper fit with thaat center board going straight down the center.  Once I know that is OK I will glue them in and paint them.  Or paint them first...I am not sure yet.
 
Chuck
 

 

Good evening every one, I have put quite a lot of time into this build and hope to have her finished within days now, (subject to change) Im quite pleased the way she is turning out, hope everyone is having a great Sunday
 

The origins of Tailgating at sports events.
 

Spotted some nice Elk, Mule Deer, and my first ever Blond/Cinnumin Black Bear.  Flying back to Paradise on Sunday. Then back to work on my Syren.

Supposed to be nice on Sat. again David. Be sure to take in Whitebird days on Sat. You have to play horse poop bingo.. You but a piece of tapea and put your name on it and stick it on the street in Whitebird. If a horse poops on it during the parade you win half the money collected. The other half goes to the local school functions.

Supposed to be nice on Sat. again David. Be sure to take in Whitebird days on Sat. You have to play horse poop bingo.. You but a piece of tapea and put your name on it and stick it on the street in Whitebird. If a horse poops on it during the parade you win half the money collected. The other half goes to the local school functions.