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RGL

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Everything posted by RGL

  1. I took out the two anchors that came with the AL kit back when I bought it last century (It's the one on the left). Nope, not happy. I replaced them with 4 from Caldercraft. The difficulty I'm going to have is that the holes in the shaft for the anchor ring is orientated the wrong way, as you can see from the AOTS and Parkin, they face the other way.
  2. OK, leave over, the kids are back at school, and the garden has been weeded and covered in a truck load of mulch. I thought as a sorbet, I would make the anchor bouys. as you can see from the photos, a bit of off cut dowel and a file and they came out quite easily. I then spent two days serving the ropes that hold them, fitted them just like a real one and compared them on the shrouds, and at 1/48 they would have looked fine, not at 1/60. the term clunky comes to mind. As such I used un-served rope and pained them black and much more to scale. If you look at the photo of them from the AOTS in the next post you will see the proper way are are supposed to look, but I'm just not Dafi and can't work at that scale.
  3. From memory mine were 4mm wide, I'd dry fit the entire length but I drew on the frames in pencil FO I knew how to put the 6 butt shift. That way the tree nails line up correctly. It also resulted in not using stealers at the stern or the bow
  4. The Main and mizzen mast tackle are not going to be doing anything but secured.
  5. As such, each lower mast has it's own tackle block set up, with the rings already placed on the channel years ago. You really do have to plan ahead. The Fore tackle was obviously used to fish out the end of the anchors to get them out of the sea. I shall endeavour to replicate this when i do the anchors.
  6. I've finally shipped the fish hook tackle. I did a bit of research on this (I think to meet Marquardt's rigging plan) and found the two following diagrams.
  7. I've kept this pillar off the ship to date as it would only get in the road. The bow swivel cannons were a slightly modified version of a Caldercraft cannon copied off the AOTS.
  8. Or; as an alternative, there is one plank called thick stuff just above the Wales, and you can do three anchor stock below. I still regret not doing that one plank.
  9. Jason, sorry to stick my nose into Rowland's log, I'm also doing the AL Endeavour. I'd strongly recommend you swap out all the planking wood supplied. The decking planks are very waxy and break very easily. The lighter but thicker ones are for the first layer, with the darker thin ones for the second layer. Greg.
  10. Thanks gents, things will slow down now, I want to get the mast tackles done next, and time to bite the bullet and make up some blocks with metal hooks. Then the fish hook davits (which are constructed but unshipped) to run off the foremast tackle, then the 4 anchors, the stunsail booms, do up chucks lantern, then wrap it all in glad wrap and start on the yards. So, same time next year then....
  11. I reckon dark gloss green would work too, it is personal taste really as to where you display it so it looks right
  12. OK, pointy end of the ship done finally. I've pretty much replicated the AOTS for all the stays and running rigging.
  13. I really have no idea why they are set up that way but I don't think if worry about it too much, it won't get in road of any of the other rigging at all.
  14. Oh yes, 5-0 and Thankyou skull. I'll take some more photos if you wish with a ruler for dimensions if you wish, I imagine the angles will vary with each kit. I'll finished the rigging on the boom which I'll attach tomorrow.
  15. The bowspit cap was cut from an off-cut of walnut that sits just outside the bees (about 2mm) - see photo. It sits at 90 degrees to the waterline but the angle at the top and bottom and the two holes run parallel to the angle of the bowspit. Done with a simple lead pencil and a sanding block to get the dimensions and angles correct. I drilled 2 holes and widened them, the lower one square and the upper one round at the angle of the bowspit. I then cut a small groove for the flagstaff and used a microfile to widen it to fit to seat 1/2 the circumference of the flagstaff. You then need 6 rings for blocks and rigging.
  16. Make sure to do a dry fit of the topmasts before you fit it all so they a) fit and sit square within the width of the inner tops hole. I did the fit which worked at first, then after all the shrouds went on it can be one a very tight fit.
  17. I used the CC Photo etch fret. The crows feet thingy does not have enough holes! You'll have to do one by hand.
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