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Everything posted by bruce d
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You are fearless!
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Hello, Henry Wombat, welcome aboard MSW. It sounds like your interests are spread across all the key subjects here, I am sure you will find a lot of interest if you decide to add a build log (or two or three...) especially as you are a 'proper sailor'. Bruce
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Perhaps post #16 here will help. If Jolly roger isn't based on a real original then you have a free hand.
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Hello Bernie and welcome to MSW. It is a great place. I am curious. The Lindberg Jolly Roger was the English HMS Flora? Which one, and what do we know about accuracy? Bruce
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Topsail schooner sail plans and rigging
bruce d replied to Dr PR's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Phil: what George said. Oh wow, thanks for that, I am printing it off and nailing it to the wall. Bruce- 85 replies
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- schooner rigging
- Topsail schooner
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Commiserations. Broke mine too but yours looks trickier. I am about to do some tests with UV curing glue on wood, will let you know if it proves useful.
- 70 replies
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- 22ft Yawl
- Vanguard Models
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UPDATE - I snapped off the stem. It became clear that I had missed something that might have been blinking obvious to a more experienced builder. I had assumed that after bending the pre-shaped wales and planks I would be able to get a good butt-joint where the individual hull planks meet the stem. Well, that didn't turn out well. I should have cut a rabbet, even a shallow one, into the stem. Fiddling around trying to improvise a clamp to hold the wale in the correct position edge-on to the stem nearly worked. The first attempt looked good but while removing the clamp the stem snapped just below the scarf. I will take the opportunity to put a rabbet on the stem, now that it is available to hold, and figure out how I will re-attach it. I have called a time-out before tackling this as I was no longer feeling the childish glee of anticipation when seeing the model. I will return, as Custer said at the Alamo, but for the moment this build is on hold.
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Dgerth, ignore the grumbling moderator: he will get over it 😆 and probably make a great model. Your log has helped me with that 'get-on-with-it' moment as I have had this on the shelf for a few months. Time to sweep off the only warm work bench and exdigitate. Thanks for the insight into the rabbet-line. Bruce
- 24 replies
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The Tamiya blades are superb for scribing plastic, as used in the video, but are not really intended for wood IMO. I found the Airwaves better for wood because it behaved more like a saw while the finer-toothed Tamiya clogged and wandered. It just wasn't intended to cut through wood. Having said that, I will try my hand at some small carving soon and expect that somewhere in the adventure I will reach for all the etched saws/scribers just to see what happens.
- 70 replies
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- 22ft Yawl
- Vanguard Models
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I have not seen the white in iroko, but since my stash of that wood all came from the same source (salvaged garden furniture set) I suppose it can vary. The surface darkening on my pieces is really quick in bright sunlight. BTW, Alan, if it is iroko be careful as every splinter of iroko I have had has turned nasty, and DO NOT breathe the dust.
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Well, I would like to know too, it looks useful. The 'honey' looks and behaves exactly like an industrial acid catylised resin adhesive I used in the '80s. It can't be that same product because that was a two-part adhesive: the 'honey' was put on one component and the acid catalyst was brushed on the other part. When the two were brought together you had about 20 seconds of wriggle-time before a sudden bite occured. The bond was very strong and full strength was achieved in minutes. The 'honey' behaved exactly like the goo in the video and I used it in a very similar way many times. It would not surprise me at all to find this is a 21st century new-and-improved version. If so, I hope it doesn't smell like the '80s version. Will be watching for news.
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Hello Dennis, Welcome to MSW, it is a great place to get a bit of help when starting out. No comment from me on Amati as I have never built one of their products but I am sure someone here will shine some light on the subject. Perhaps you have already searched the build logs and got an impression of how the same problems/issues bedevil both new and experienced builders, so don't be shy about asking for help. Can we look forward to a build log? Regards, Bruce
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Here it is: http://ao.sa.dk/ao/data.ashx?bid=31918117 It's a real peach, ain't it?
- 607 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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This book contains plans and illustrations of some significant vessels. Most notable to me is Demologos, a real brute, which according to Wikipedia was '... the first warship to be propelled by a steam engine. She was a wooden floating battery built to defend New York Harbor from the Royal Navy during the War of 1812. ' navalmailsteamer00stuauoft.pdf Bruce
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Hello Tomasz and welcome to MSW. Nice model!
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One of my Unimat vices has the sliding handle removed. I have found that there is enough grip on the knurled piece to allow tightening wood for milling by finger-grip. On one occasion when holding brass I gave an extra 'oomph' to the grip by using an improvised tommy bar but it probably was overkill.
- 70 replies
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- 22ft Yawl
- Vanguard Models
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