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bruce d

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Everything posted by bruce d

  1. Hello Dennis, Welcome to MSW, it is a great place to get a bit of help when starting out. No comment from me on Amati as I have never built one of their products but I am sure someone here will shine some light on the subject. Perhaps you have already searched the build logs and got an impression of how the same problems/issues bedevil both new and experienced builders, so don't be shy about asking for help. Can we look forward to a build log? Regards, Bruce
  2. Chris, I am looking forward to spring and a picture of you on the poopdeck of your canoe. 😁 Looking good.
  3. This book contains plans and illustrations of some significant vessels. Most notable to me is Demologos, a real brute, which according to Wikipedia was '... the first warship to be propelled by a steam engine. She was a wooden floating battery built to defend New York Harbor from the Royal Navy during the War of 1812. ' navalmailsteamer00stuauoft.pdf Bruce
  4. Hello Tomasz and welcome to MSW. Nice model!
  5. One of my Unimat vices has the sliding handle removed. I have found that there is enough grip on the knurled piece to allow tightening wood for milling by finger-grip. On one occasion when holding brass I gave an extra 'oomph' to the grip by using an improvised tommy bar but it probably was overkill.
  6. Is this vice about the right size? https://www.hobbies.co.uk/tools/power-tools/unimat-tools-steel-milling-vice This original Unimat vice is my go-to: ... and go-to number two: https://www.rdgtools.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=vice&PN=75mm-Tilting-Machine-Vice-09234968.html#SID=356 I have too many vices.
  7. Hello Andy, That is a nice looking model. Welcome to MSW.
  8. Sounds like you will fit right in, and our 'seasoning' is a work-in-progress. There are no stupid questions; trawl through the build logs and new member introductions and you will see that the same issues stump builders all the time. Welcome to MSW, ask away!
  9. From the NMM: https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/68419.html https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/86585.html https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/86587.html https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/86586.html https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/86591.html https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/86588.html These are 19th century. HTH Bruce
  10. Eugenio, thanks for sharing. What a nice thing to pass down through the family. Very 'business-like' ships, aren't they?
  11. Well, fort of. The old 'S' was very much like the 'F' and it was phased out (I believe) in the late part of the 18th century. Good thing too, fome folkf could flip up on fimple fentancef. And don't get me ftarted on 'ye'.
  12. This paper on the effects of lightning includes an illustration and partial description of the booms and rig of a masting hulk. rigging of masting hulk.pdf
  13. This paper describes and illustrates a lightning conductor of 1770 Ships lightning conductor illustrated 1770.pdf
  14. During my 'working years' I had no choice, the materials we used were metric (because the world had moved on) to make things that were designed in Imperial. There were mixes everywhere: we bought casting metal in old tons, injection moulding plastic in metric hoppers, turned components that had metric and Whitworth threads in one piece, and so on. Once I retired I found I could fiddle about at the bench using either system. Then to my surprise it turned out my head-bone worked better with metric input. I was nearly twenty before I even saw a metric measuring stick and now it is my default. The two builds currently on my benches are both very metric-centred, despite the plans for one of them (Mediator) being drawn in inches. Also, there are very few materials available here in the UK still made to Imperial standards so ... 'resistance is futile'.
  15. This is how it was done before the specialist tools were available: Hold the piece of brass PE down with a steel ruler. Align the edge of the ruler with the intended fold line. Press down and slide a scalpel under the protruding bit of PE all the way to the ruler. Now, without relaxing the pressure on the ruler, twist the scalpel. Stop at 90 degrees. You have folded the PE. If you need to go further than 90 degrees, remove the ruler, place the scalpel inside the bend (where the ruler was) and use the ruler to push the PE as far as it needs to go. The ruler should be standing on edge and twisted, much as the you did with the scalplel, and just rotate it down onto the PE. It works. Practice on a bit of scrap, concentrate and be aware stainless steel PE (not common anymore) will need more force. I have made thousands of bends like this, large and small.
  16. Hello Greg and welcome to MSW. Sounds like you are well on your way, enjoy the journey!
  17. Dave, I have a stack of the stuff you are welcome to if you are still stuck. Let me know. Otherwise, I suppose SpyGlass and I can start a shipyard? We'll be rich!
  18. ... but you are correct and it is surprising that this point was not picked up earlier. I have a nice painting of Beagle on my wall and yet I hadn't thought of it.
  19. Hello Rachel and a warm welcome to the MSW family. An unfinished project to tackle? You will find many people here with that experience and, with a bit of luck, you will find advice and encouragement here to get it going. Can we look forward to a build log? Regards, Bruce (Wish I had a sample of your SoCal weather, it is chilly here)
  20. Title: Models of Ships and Boats by Reisner, George Andrew, 1867-1942; Egypt. Maslahat al-Athar Published in 1913, studies of artifacts. Models of ships and boats EGYPT.pdf
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