bruce d

You are off to good start, and it looks like choosing a kit from Chuck supplied by Model Expo was a good move. I always like the pinnace and considered it as a first kit, will be watching.

Hello Pieter and welcome to MSW. It is a great place to learn and, don't forget, you may have something to 'teach' as well. Your solutions to your issues in your build may be exactly what another builder is looking for. Glad to have you on board.

Bob, while you chill out on the beach I think I will be reading this blog from post #1. That is a fine looking model. Bruce

Hello Mike, and welcome to MSW. That looks like another interesting water-hot-rod project, why not start your own build log and post a quick 'hello' in new member introductions? I will be watching to see what you do with that iconic hydroplane. Regards, Bruce

Yep.

I am just catching up on this. That is a good looking boat, those colours really pop with the wood. Good job, looking forward to what happens next.

The ribs are well made but fiddly. The material is 1mm cherry plywood of good quality. There are etched lines on one face of the first two ribs as an aid to fairing. Rib number three also needs a small amount of fairing but marks are not needed. I suggest anyone who is considering building this kit should read the next bit carefully; this is where the ‘three-cups-of-tea plan’ kicks in. Since the successful fairing of the first three ribs would be the trickiest part of the build, and the possibility of breaking any of the other 22 delicate ribs was equally intimidating, I was happy to see a way to [A] reduce the risk of breaking ribs and [B] repair any damaged ribs easily. The trick only works if you do one rib at a time, start to finish, no exceptions. Even though the first two are the ones needing the most fairing, I followed the same process for them all and it paid off as you will see. This is what I settled on: Leave all ribs on the fret and, starting with the first rib at the front end, cut away only the redundant piece of wood that fills the inside of the rib. Set aside the piece you just removed. See photo and leave the rest of the fret untouched. It is important to keep all the pieces of the frets which would normally be considered waste and thrown in the bin. They are used to make jigs to retain the correct shape of any broken ribs while glue dries. Carefully hold the entire fret with the chosen rib still in place. You now have access to the inside of the rib to remove char while it is still attached to, and supported by, the main piece of the fret. Once that inside char is removed you cut the tabs that hold the rib. Set aside the fret without doing anything more to it. If anything breaks (like mine did), return the rib to the perfectly shaped space on the fret you took it from and you can make repairs there (see example later in post). The fairing of the first ribs makes repairs highly likely. I needed to make repairs to ribs using this ‘jig’ method a total of three times and it worked each time. To do any fairing or further removal of char on the rib requires supporting the piece. I placed the rib on the flat face of the steel parallel as shown in the photo and used only downward strokes with a sanding stick. It was the only safe way I found for this task. All of my breaks came from bad handling while fitting, not fairing. The results can be satisfying; right side of photo is faired, the left still to do. And then it broke while I was handling it. Emergency protocol initiated: a touch of Titebond glue on the fracture; place the rib back into it’s space in the fret; when satisfied that I had recreated the original shape, I allowed it to cure overnight. It worked. This is the repaired rib. Photos below: after rib # 1 was faired and glued in place, I removed the now redundant section of fret that had held it in order to gain access to rib # 2. I kept the pieces that had been cut away in case of problems later on. I do not know if the designer intended builders to use this process, or for that matter if everyone else knows a better way, but this is what worked for me. Things moved quickly (hooray!) as soon as I was past the third rib since no more fairing was required. Bookbinders glue was used for attaching all ribs to the keel. It has a very quick grab but gave enough time for levelling as long as long as I didn’t dither. I continued with the same method of cleaning the inside of the rib before removing it from the fret. Then cleaning the outer edge was mostly done by supporting the rib on my finger and rubbing 120 grit sandpaper along the length of the rib, never across the rib. All ribs sat nicely in their slots in the keel, it was easy to level them up and the building cradle proved to be true and effective. The interior will be finished in red. The safest way to colour the ribs without getting paint on the narrow edges where the planking will be glued was … don’t use paint! Tests showed that a red water-based ink marker (Tombow ABT number 847) looks right on both the planking veneer and the rib ply. I left the option open of using acrylic paint on the inside of the planking after assembly and found a good match. I will decide later. A word of caution, however: the plywood turned a bit ‘wooly’ when the water-based ink was first applied. After it dried the effect disappeared and the ply seemed as strong as before. I coloured the ribs with the minimum needed to get a uniform finish and left them to sit for a day. Progress: Then the ‘ouch’ moment. Perhaps I became complacent after my earlier success. Somehow I snagged the last rib (number 25, at the stern) after it was firmly in place and it snapped. A touch of IPA released the rib and it was repaired in the ‘fret-jig’ (there’s a new word). It was then returned to the keel with no damage evident. Apparently the ply did not suffer any ill effects from the water-based ink. Planking is next.

The keel is pretty straight forward. EDIT: SEE POST #10 The stern piece comes with planks engraved on one side so I scribed them on the other (inside) face as well. The sub assembly that forms the boat’s stern is then assembled. The alignment of the two pieces is important and perhaps a couple of laser etched marks at the centre for reference would have helped. As it is it must be centred by eye and I had a couple of false starts. Once I used the method in the pictures it was painless. I also used bookbinders glue for this because of it’s super-quick grab. The large metal block was useful to give a good visual ref and keep things from moving. The stern sub assembly is then glued to the keel, again by eye. To keep things at 90 degrees while the glue cured I cobbled this fixture. The result I could not see any way of using the cradle to achieve this with any certainty because the join would have been hidden inside the cradle with no clear line of sight. I could have drilled an access hole but this contraption was pretty easy to make. Keel sub-assembly to this stage. Once satisfied, I set the keel assembly in the cradle. It is held by friction and, fingers crossed, won’t come out again until the ribs are all fixed in place.

This is a build log for the CAFMODEL longboat. Although I will dwell in detail on the features and instructions of the kit, it is not an official kit review as this is my first ever attempt at building a laser cut kit and it would clearly be wrong for my comments and observations to carry the weight of an experienced reviewer/builder. Having said that, the kit instructions show where parts go, not how to do it, and I believe anyone building this model will come across the same issues I encountered. Hence the level of detail in my log. After an exchange of emails with Tom at CAFMODEL I purchased this and two other kits. I found Tom very approachable and helpful. The kit: The CAFMODEL longboat (SB130 – 168) is a 1/48 scale French longboat based on Ancre sources. The subject is ostensibly a Louis XV era longboat but could equally represent a later craft. It is of laser cut cherry wood and plywood plus photoetched parts. There is also a piece of .8mm brass wire for some detail work. EDIT: it also has a small fret of photo-etched brass. The quality is good. The box contents are neatly packed. Instructions are graphic-style with a few notes (in English) and scale drawings. 2mm cherry, 1mm ply and .4mm cherry veneer make up the boat parts. The building cradle is 2mm ply. The laser cutting was precise and I found no areas where anything was over- or under-cut. The first thing was to understand the parts and what is required. This took me three cups of tea. Eventually I had a plan and, at least up to the time of writing, it has proved to be a good one. The critical process is the handling of the ribs and that will be explained when we come to them. To state the obvious, the building cradle is absolutely vital. Before assembly, I tested the fit of the different pieces of wood used for the stem and the ribs in their slots. To play safe I opened up the slots in the top piece for the ribs with a few strokes of 120 grit sandpaper wrapped around an old steel ruler. Next, I decided to screw the assembled cradle down to a block. This is not in the instructions but I anticipate this will help later. There are slots in the bottom piece of the cradle to hold the keel in place. When it is time to remove the keel assembly you push upwards through these slots to remove the skeleton. These slots will be covered so I drilled access holes in the bigger block before screwing the cradle down. Once screwed to block and checked, we’re off.

This challanges some established ideas. NARROWED_AND_FILLED_WITH_TIMBER_AN_ANALY.pdf

Matus, that is a very good looking model. Well done.

Hello Martin and welcome to MSW. It is a great place.

Hello Kathy, You probably have this in hand but be sure the wood is sealed. You could use WOP or shellac, maybe you have a favorite. Make sure it has had whatever time is needed for the product to cure plus a bit. HTH, Bruce

LOUD????? It shook the earth. And by the way, it was solid yellow when I saw it. Quite a day. Frantic Four / Greer-Black-Prudhome match race, Hemi Under Glass and The Little Red Wagon. Our car was out in round two but Linda Vaughn was there ...

Correct, and the car had a second career as a funny car with a Buick station wagon body. I saw it run at Covington Georgia. Now that would be a model!

Another Smokey-ism: I think he replied 'cubic money' when asked about the power advantage of a factory Ford.

In that great comedy 'Days of Thunder' the Robert Duvall character Harry Hogge must have been an homage to Smokey.

I still remember his big crash in qualifying. Atlanta '68? EDIT: Googled it. It was '67 and Curtis Turner was driving Smokey's 'cheater' Chevelle. He walked away without a scratch.

Alan, it looks like you went back to rule number 1: enjoy modelling. Glad to hear about the eye.

Chuck, I'm catching up. I thought i had wandered into the Twilight Zone. This is staggering.

... and it was worth the wait. Nice touch with the equipment display.

Mike, just catching up on your build. I really like the realism-first approach built into your processes. Great stuff, will watch for the 'ta-da!' moment when you declare it finished.

Title = ' The ship-builders assistant : or, some essays towards compleating the art of marine architecture Sutherland, William, (1711)' This document is incomplete but does include a chapter entitled 'Of Beauty'. I was hooked immediately. There are guides to acceptable styles of imagery used on stairs, rails and figureheads. I did not realise there were industry standards for decorating newels on stairs! It is not a downloadable PDF but can be viewed page-by-page up to the point where (apparantly) the record is corrupted. The link below should take you to the opening of the 'Of Beauty' chapter but don't ignore the earlier pages. https://echo.mpiwg-berlin.mpg.de/ECHOdocuView?url=/permanent/library/AE4UUGBR/pageimg&viewMode=image&pn=93&mode=imagepath

Test first. From experience, some dry transfer products react with some spray coverings. It will be an easy test because, again from experience, the effect is immediate. So just rub down a letter on some scrap and spray it, you will know pretty much straight away if you have one of the uncommon mis-matches. I must emphasise, most products will not cause a problem but it is possible, so test.

From 'The American Neptune Pictorial Supplement 11-20' Includes billetboards and other decorated pieces as well as figureheads.