Tigersteve

After messaging Chuck, I adjusted the planking band as there was too much taper. I took a different approach and marked ten planks on most bulkheads and adjusted the tape to a smooth curve. Chuck suggested adding a drop plank, which will result in one less plank terminating at the bow. I will follow this plan and also add a stealer at the stern.
 
Although below the whales will be painted, I wanted to use this project to improve my planking technique. 
Steve

I've completed cutting out all of the bulkheads. Nothing to difficult. Just slow going and as you know there's a lot of them.
Next I'll cut out the three sections for the former. Something I do while I'm cutting out the former and while I'm not working
on the bulkheads I always keep a weight on them. Though the humidity is a fairly constant 50% I still don't want to take any chances.
 

I have finished putting in place the Logger Head, Mast Tabernacle and Mast Chute. The Logger Head was carved from a piece of 3/8” dowel (not provided) following the plan sheets and manual. Much care was needed to position and drill a 1/8” hole into the deck floor for the Logger Head support post. The hole in the Lion’s Tongue was 3/8”. The Tabernacle and Chute have been described earlier. The mast is not finished but was temporarily used for positioning  
 

 

After messaging Chuck, I adjusted the planking band as there was too much taper. I took a different approach and marked ten planks on most bulkheads and adjusted the tape to a smooth curve. Chuck suggested adding a drop plank, which will result in one less plank terminating at the bow. I will follow this plan and also add a stealer at the stern.
 
Although below the whales will be painted, I wanted to use this project to improve my planking technique. 
Steve

Thank you guys,
little progress. Now I am ready to start the wotk inside the hull.

Today was a good day for working on my Winnie!
The weather here was cool and the sky overcast.
Only a few more bulkheads to cut out and fit to the bulkhead form.
Started getting her setup for fairing her out.

Good morning and thanks to everyone, more photos.


 

 

 

 

 
Un Saluto.

I glued the template to the build board a couple of days ago and today decided to set the alignment pins.  The first one went smooth as glass and the second one did not.  I filled the misaligned and much too big hole with glue and will see what tomorrow brings.  😊  I'm sure the size is correct as they are less than a quarter inch as the instructions stipulate but I am concerned that they are loose and easy to remove.  We are having some significant humidity here in Minnesota and I'm afraid of warping in the wood I'm using.  My work space is in the basement and I do have a dehumidifier going.  I am considering bringing everything upstairs but the ship's cat is a curious sort and not to be completely trusted. 😉  I'm almost considering storing the wood in the freezer but I'm afraid of the condensation that forms when I take it out of the freezer.  I left some of the tape on the template which came in handy for storing the unplaced alignment pin.  I was hoping for more significant progress but it is what it is.  It's all good 😊  I'm going to get a smaller hammer!

thanks for the likes,
i have glued everything together and started to shape the hull / fairing the hull 
the stern is going to take some time because of the round shape that needed from the dekk to  the keel ....
i think its going to be fun to see the lines and compare it to the plans ....
 
svein erik

Some progress.
 


I did have to replace bulkhead 28 because of sloppy cutout - it's the only one that seems to have been badly treated on the scroll saw.
 

The replacement looks better
 

 
 

Another update with a few photo's. 
When working on the Quarter deck port sill and lintels I noticed I goofed up with the placement on the laser parts H-H. I placed them on the wrong side of the laser edge on the bulkhead extension. This required some fixing. I think I got away with it. This is shown on photo 4 & 5. (the photo's were imported in random order).
The other pics show a bit more progress after that (hopefully without any stuff-ups this time)....🙂
Peter

The quarterdeck rail was also completed. The rounded bit on the aftermost part is a piece of water soaked, bent, dried and adapted 5x1mm boxwood strip. There is also a length of 1x1mm strip on the outer hull in continuation of the upper, after end of the rounded rail. It's not mentioned anywhere in the instructions but visible on the overall plan.



quarterdeck rail in place


 


 


additional decorative strip on outer hull


 



all painted

Thanks Michael and Rich and the "Likes".  The model is very strong while being very light.
 
Jim, thank you for your comment on my health.  I am doing great and it seems like a bad dream as to what happened to me a couple of months ago.  I will be looking forward to seeing you at the NRG Conference later this month.
 
I have installed the cap rail and the bolsters since my last post.  The cap rails need to be thinned down quite a bit and I have started this on the starboard side of the model.  I have done a lot of sanding on the cap rails and frames and still have a lot more sanding to do.  Here is a photo of my progress to date on the Longboat:
 

I worked on the bolsters for the past three days.  I was lucky to have made the starboard side on my first try.  The port side took me two tries.  I left about an 1/8'' of wood on the forward part of the bolsters after carefully fitting the rear part of the bolsters to the hull profile and glued them to the stem.  When I sanded down this excess wood, some red grain appeared from the middle of the port bolster.  The more I sanded, the more grain appeared.  I am not happy with this as I feel it will look like a bit of red paint got on the bolster when I paint the cap rails red.  I will have to live with it as there is no way to replace this bolster.  You never know what is hidden inside a piece of wood.
 

All starboard side ratlines complete!

Good morning and thanks to everyone, more photos.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Un Saluto.

Good morning and thanks to everyone, more photos.
 

 

 

 

 


Un Saluto.

First port-lid done, but not glued...

@CRI-CRI, she's looking great. Fine build you have going, very clean workmanship! 

The Syren rope came in and I re-rigged the shrouds. I am a lot happier with their appearance. 

Part 6. The frames

The frames in the model are 3x3 mm oak frames. To be able to bend them to the hull form I will have to steam them. I use the steam barrel of a wall paper steamer to produce the steam and connect it to a steam box made of plywood.



Inside of the steam box.



The frames are laid on the small metal cross bars to allow the steam moving all around the frames.



I place the steam box outside my workshop because of the escaping vapor.



I leave the frames for at least 20 minutes in the steam.



Then I press them gently into the hull. Sometimes one of them creaks but most of them go without problems.



I use small wooden planks as spacers to glue the frames at equal intervals.



After a night drying, I take out the frames, sand them and glue them into place.


 

 


The placing of frames takes me several days.


 


In the mast step area the frames are laying at half distance intervals.


 



Thank you to follow.
Thank you for the likes.
 
Till next week!

Good morning.

Frame 4a was repaired with 4 pieces of 1mm walnut stripwood left over from a kit.  These measured 1 3/8", 1", 1/2" and 3/8".  Each one was glued to the frame starting at the depth of the rabbet.  Once dry it was sanded smooth.  The first picture shows the four individual pieces and the second one shows the frame after the repair has been sanded smooth.  


The stern frames need to be installed next.  Because of the tight curves in the hull, I have made this area semi-solid to facilitate planking.  Taper the feet of Frames Ga, Gb and H and install them onto the deadwood.  A filler block will make the whole assembly very strong and stable.  This filler can be placed either between Frames G and Ga or between Frames Ga and Gb, depending on how you mount the frames.  I have done it both ways.  



Glue the transom piece onto the "L" and make a filler from a scrap piece of basswood.


Using the machinist square, mark the fore and aft faces of the frames with the location of the bottom of the rail.  Transfer these marks to the edge of the frame.  I use a piece of chart tape to finesse the line of the rail.

Once happy with the flow of the line, I mark the frames and sand them down to that line.

The carcass is now complete.  To get to this point should take approximately 10-15 hours of uninterrupted work.  The next step will be to fair the hull.

Just letting you guys know that I have been steadily making progress.  Planking is not something that can be rushed.   No matter how well you make all of the other fittings and parts on a model, if your planking is bad that is all anyone will ever notice.   So go slow and keep it clean and neat with tight joints.   

If you see yourself going off your lining off tick marks with a  strake, no need to worry.  Then you should correct it with the next strake or two in order to get back on your marks.  Keep flipping the hull "right-side-up".....as you should check your run of planks every strake or two and make adjustments when needed.   Below you can see the tapered planks along the tuck and the transition of the planks onto the stern post rabbet.  Note the plank in the corner where the ends transition from the counter to along the rabbet strip.  The cedar is working out nicely and I think the color looks good on a model this size.  You guys can of course judge for yourselves but if you are building a frigate or other larger subject, this is a good choice.  Its a bit soft bu once you get accustomed to using it,  it really looks good.   I have only used a bit of wipe on poly on the planking.

I have completed two belts on the port side and am finishing of the second belt on the starboard.  Once completed I will reverse direction and start planking from the keel ....upward in order to finish up the hull planking.  You can see my planks entering the stem rabbet below.

 
Questions and comments are always welcome from the group.
 
Chuck

Eight open port lids ready for back red painting and small accessories...

I got to work on the bulkheads this morning before it got hot.
It is now 94 degrees, I am sure glad it is fall season now.  🙄
She is starting to fill in and now a little over half of the bulkheads are cut out and fitted on the bulkhead form.