Tigersteve

Very nice!
Steve

Tks for all the likes folks ,some times i will need encouragement . I made up the bow section from pear and although it may not be to everyones taste i love the look of natural wood grain , this has just been given a coat of sanding sealer for some protection and again i,m pleased with this type of finish 

Some more updates. The small stuff takes lot more time than the major steps. I finished boom and gaff, simulated the rope parrel with blackened 0,7mm brass wire. Wanted to make some wood beads out of boxwood but decided to use the supplied brass ones and blackened them instead. That gives a nice contrast to the boxwood mast hoops. Assembled two closed hearts from syren that match the size of the kit-supplied ones. In comparison the two supplied walnut closed hearts.

Final step for the lowest level of this model ship: adding the aging look with tung oil

Almost finished finishing lining of ebony and pear.

9/17   -   6:30 – 8pm
 
First day shaping the hull and I too noticed some discrepancies between the plans and the templates.  What was more concerning was that my hull was already less than what it was supposed to be along the keel.

 
 
 
Per Chucks practicum it says I should shape it to 1/8” wide at the keel, however you can see in the picture that I am already at around 1/16”.  However, as stated in another log that I read a few times over the last month or so, the plans do show the keel being 1/8” in height and 1/16” in width.   So I am going to build it per the plans and continue on….
 
I also notice that the stern wasn’t created equal, but it is wood, and as I have seen many places in many logs, if it looks good to the eye than its good!  So I think I can fake it as I do have wood putty on order.
 

 
 
The stern is alittle thin/nasty as well, however, when I thin the bulwarks I believe I can erase the error in the picture below.

 
 
 
Side by side of the keel Compared to after I finished for the night….
 

 
 
 
so I continued and did some more shaping…going as slow as I could and checking and double checking.
 

 
 
so I also noticed that the bow is also thin along the stern post, but if I keep with the 1/16” I hope it might be closer to scale and work out for me.
 
In the picture below  you can see how much thinner the keel is then the 1/8” x 1/8” piece of wood in the kit.
 

 
 
 
The good news is I really struggled with a Blue Jacket solid hull, only because after spending hours shaping it I realized that the holes for the mast were drill wrong and the entire hull was off by ¼” to a ½” and I faked it and made it work except when I went to redrill the holes I didn’t have a good jig and it went back in the wrong holes…so I gave up.
 
Now with this one I realize that kit manufacturers assume you aren’t expecting perfect, or that you are a model maker creating art and should be able to fake it…its not engineers work as I have seen stated before.
 
I also recently read the log of a completed pilot boat where the creator states that if he ever did a solid hull he wouldn’t get hung up on things and would make sure it was boat shaped and move on.  I am following his advise and not stressing about it matching the plans to a tee as long as it looks like a boat and I am happy with it.

9/18/19 - 6-8pm
 
I spent more time studying the plans, checking the templates and sanding...but it’s getting easier and better I think.  Reading through Elijah’s log helped quite a bit.
 
 
Kind of hard to tell but I sanded quite a big off.  I’m starting to see the contours as I study one drawing to the next.  Hard to tell in the pictures.
 
i also started me keel and rudder by glueing the 1/8” rods together.
 

 

I have also been trying to finish up the “Shipyard”....sometimes it’s good to be single and have a house with empty room lol.  Other times it’s lonely.  

Decided to build a rudder for the phantom while waiting for putty.

Today works...

Couple of weeks off visiting family, so now I've finally taken the plunge and started making sawdust. My wife's help in cutting out the templates with her scan 'n cut machine certainly makes it easy to juggle the shapes around and minimise wastage. The pritt stick worked well in sticking the paper (I hadn't used it yet in this photo!).

Rough cuts on the bandsaw followed by trickier work on the scroll saw:


 
I haven't sanded the edges yet, and I won't finish the slots until I'm ready to fit the frames, but I'm quite pleased with this first attempt. It's given me the incentive to press on slowly with this preliminary work whilst I finish other projects.
 
Derek

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

The anchors were installed, including the buoys.  Plus I chose the Ensign of the New England Navy. It was in use from 1775 through 1777.  I’m flying it from the gaff.  To make it I followed Chuck Passaro’s method from his log of his kit of the Queen Anne Barge which can be found at ‘https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/12476-syren-ship-model-company-news-and-forthcoming-new-projects-products/&page=34’.  His method worked and I’m really pleased with the flag.  

 

 
As a result, the model is finished.  I attach some final photos.
 

 

 

Another update at last.  Following our trip up north to visit family and week at the museum where no model making was done due to other commitments, I've finally got a little more done on the Meteor.
 
The planking under the counter is completes and rough sanded and I've started (just) planking the inside of the hull.  Once I have the inside planking done I'll do the final fairing and sanding of the outside of the hull and get the planking on there.
 
John
 

Good morning all !

The work continues slowly. I'm still in the hold, the walls are taking place little by little ...















To follow in a few days ...

Have a good day !

Patrick


 

I took a stab at making some videos that show how I plank the bow of any ship model.  Specifically how to taper and edge bend a strip so that it lays flat against the bulkheads.   This is basically how I plank every hull at the bow.  I shot these videos at 720 HD quality so rather than string together the four videos into one long 20 minute session, I kept them individual.   They take forever to upload to you tube when they are 20 minutes long.   Literally hours.  So these are four short 5 minute videos instead. A lot easier to upload and process.   I will edit this post and add the other 3 as I finish processing them for upload.  Basically each part is split into an intro.....then tapering.....then edge bending.....and test fitting on the hull.
 
Let me know if you have any questions.   Keep in mind its weird making these when I am alone in my shop and basically talking to myself.  I had to reach around the tripod i order to get to the model and I was hitting it and had to start over many times....not my cup of tea all this video stuff!!!!  😂  Let me know if you think its worth the time as it is a real pain in the biscuit .  But I will continue if you guys get anything out of it.  I also must have had the camera too close to teh hull so the first two videos are not as crisp as the others.   Live and learn.....next time it will be better  but I tried to get as close to the hull as possible so you could see everything.
 
Planking the bow of HMS Winchelsea....part one - Intro to tapering
 
 
PART TWO.....Tapering your plank...
 
 
PART THREE....Edge bending with heat
 
 
 
PART FOUR.....Testing the plank on the model
 
 

Planking below the wales is one of my favorite parts of the build. I have now completed the first belt on the starboard side. Working with boxwood is great though I have to work slowly if I want to get a nice result. On a good day I can complete one strake. I'm Just taking my time and treating each plank as a project in itself. Edge bending is my new friend and I'm finding, for the most part, it's all that is needed. The exception being where the plank sweeps upwards into the counter. There I use a dowel to form the shape. In all cases I use the hair dryer after wetting the wood for 10-15 seconds. Some preliminary cleanup sanding was done while leaving the last installed strake mostly untouched until more planks are added below it.

Mike
 

Three Thwarts and their Knees essentially finished. Yet to decide if I want to paint the center of Thwarts. I kind of like the look as is right now.  We’ll see. Anyway, one and a half Thwarts to go. As a break in the action, I worked on the Box, Cuddy Board and Lion’s Tongue. Then I added a bit of paint to check out the color scheme.
 
After looking at the photo below, I see the unstained Thwart may need straightening.  Interesting how photos sometimes reveal things you miss otherwise. I will check in out tomorrow. 

All sorted and ready for work!  Will copy the plans tomorrow so I have an extra set for cutting the templates out of.

Fore mast's chainplates done...

Speedwell is up in Canada receiving her carvings so not too much to report from the shipyard. Her deadeyes are dyed with Fiebings brown stain and a new tiller created. The old one was built up from hollow square tubing and round tubing but I never quite liked the way it looked. So I replaced her. Basically, I started with oversized square stock and turned the round tapered handle on the lathe. I then cut each side of the square stock on my Byrnes table saw with slitting blade until the matched the round stock. The small ball was silver soldered in place and the new tiller blackened. Much improved!
 
To forestall building the masts and spars I decided to build a binnacle. David Antscherl designed a simple version which would be appropriate for the sloop. I built three because...why not. But only one has a compass.  I would be happy to give the other two away to anyone who can provide proof they purchased our Speedwell book (a photo on your desk will suffice). Just send me a PM.
 

Thank You Chuck and Gary for your kind words. The kit is a real gem and very pleasant to build.
Thanks to all the 'Likes'.
The garboard is in place.



As you can see, before to begin the planking, the hull has been lined and tick marks have been reported on each frame.
 

Finally, I decided to simulate the treenails at this step. It's easier to position them now.
 

One Thwart and its Knees in place. I find this process is very slow but the laminate procedure seems to work out well.  Ready for the next one. I am using Minwax Golden Oak Stain.  I may paint the center portion of the Thwarts dark brown or black  I will wait and see how the whole boat comes together before I make a decision on this.

Not much to report. Just a few pics to show what I have been up to.

Determining the planking belts. Tick strips were used to determine and mark the halfway point of the remaining area to be planked. This was done from bulkhead D through 4B. Adjustments were made based off these measurements. 
 
I could use our experts feedback on the lines of these belts especially at the bow. 
Steve

thanks for the likes!
am back in shop.... 
the first belt of planks are now finish, need some more sanding and the wales need some paint too(later)
i wil start the next thing to do is to start with the square tuck.... see you!
 
svein erik