garyshipwright

Looks out standing Nils and talk about a lot of parts and pieces. The metal work is out standing and must have took forever but looks good. . One thing I noticed is the crew and every once in a while you have them working around the decks and wheel. Any chance of knowing where you press them from? Outstanding Nils. Gary

Sorry Alan should have include this. Which one is the most important tool on the desk? Gary

Ok Alan which one? Gary

Hi Remco. Simpley outstanding sir. You giving me some great ideals for Alfreds kitchen when I finally get there. . O by the way, do believe it looks like some one took the silverware. Gary

I would probably say the beer. Gary

Mark one of those plans do show that the helm port transom could be moved forward but am not sure what plan it was. Went and took a look and its the Vengeance, J3250. Believe that the standard has been notched so the transom will fit. Mark do believe you mention that the transom is 10 inches wide. It should be 10 inches deep, accorden to the contract. Steel also says that its post to be 10 inches deep but gives the moulded on the fore and aft as broad as may be had- 1 foot 8 inches and broad upon the clamp 1 foot 4 inches Gary

Nice drawing Mark. You could also go and look at the plans J2683 Goliath which has a stern view showing the shape of the HPT(Helm port transom), also the Vengeance of 1771, J3250, Ramilies of 1785, J3209 and Bedford 1775, J3365. Gary

Thanks Michael. Have thought about the small one at Micro Mart, sells for about 35 dollars or so. Gary

Hi Mark Good drawing sir but I believe that the helm port transom would have intersected on the forward part of the stern post. Other then that sir I would say your drawing is right on. Not one of my better views of the stern Mark but should give you at least ideal's about how I approach this on my stern. Since these photo's, I didn't like my helm port transom and have taken it out. At the same time a few more items may come out and be replaced also. Guess items do have a way of coming back to haunt you untill you just have to change them out. Gary

Hi Mark. I took a look at the photo's sir and the one that show's the side of the stern post, the helm port transom, does run in to the side of the stern post but isn't the way it was done in full size as far as I know, from the plans that I have seen. The stern post would have been notched out for the transom to fit on top of it at a height of 3 inches below the tiller I believe. I think that the builder of the model didn't notched out the post and just cut the transom to fit on either side of the post. This is one of those items that is a real bear, to fit in one piece. Another item that isn't shown in its proper shape is the gun deck transom which usually has a round up to it and other then the wing transom the rest of the filling transom are all flat across the top. As far as the upper deck transom I do believe that on the Bellona model, it does show it shaped right, with the center cut out to fit a round the rudder. If you did go with the forward beam you would still need a upper deck transom for the end's of the planks to land on. Do wish we had some photo's showing what those items looked like on the inside of that model, which would be a big help in figuring out their shape. Do think the shape in your drawing is close to what probably was used. Some thing that does help on the helm port transom and figure out its height in the middle is that the standard(knee) that fitted on to the front of the stern post, the upper arm top height was also the upper part of the top of the helm port transom. Since your builder her like the model then fitting the helm port to the side of the stern post would be well in line, that and building the deck transom as you have it drawn, fitted to the counter timbers. . Gary

Hi Mark Your sketches look good sir as your sketches always do but from the research on this part there are a couple of items that seems to be questionable. One would be the upper deck transom. From looking at plans and the contracts it states that it was ten inches deep, scored and bolted to the counter timber. As far as a rabbet for the deck planking here, plans show that the planking run's all the way back to the outside edge of the stern counter timber's, butting up against the lower counter moulding. The only deck transom that is mentioning as have a rabbet on its forward edge is the round house. It does seem that if the other transoms had one it would have been mention in the contracts. Why only mention the one and not that others and at the same time only show the round house transom on the plans as the only one having one. The other item is the helm port transom. Going by what the contracts say about this item is that it is to be 10 inches deep, scored and bolted through the counter timbers, to give it no more cast than necessary to give room for the tiller (which is to have 3 inches play above and below, between the deck and helm port transom) and stern ports. It also goes on to say that the cast part of the transom, were the wood is apt to spring, to have two small bolts drove down from the upper side, and clenched on the under side as close as may be to the middle part on which the tiller traveses. This tells me that there was one piece that was bolted down to the top of the stern post and then was cast up to make up the top of the gun ports. My way of looking is which one would give you more strength. When looking at the photo of the Bellona stern you can make out the cast part of the helm port transom sitting on top of the stern post. Just more to think about Mark, but am sure which every one will look as good as the rest of her. Gary

Thanks Antony. Is there any way to get a plan type look at it sir? It could make a good detail addition. Gary

Mark that looks good sir and do agree with you on working from the outside to the inside. When I laid Alfred's gun deck plank's, I went from the outside towards the middle and from the bow to the stern. A whole lot easier fitting the plank up against the water way then fitting it after every thing else is laid. Gary

Hi Guys. Have to agree with you on what the purpose of the king plank was for, but only one thing comes to mind about it. If the deck has hatches down the middle of the deck and the king plank is cut up by these, where is the strength of the king plank. Wouldn't thicker planks on either side of the hatches , recessed in to the beams and not being cut in two have more strength, then a king plank cut up in to short pieces in the middle of the deck? Just a thought on it. Gary

Hi Ed. I must say sir you have your metal work cut out for you. Young America has become a very interesting build and the way you are building her is in line with your last build. Every update is a joy to read and the photo's a real treasure for the eyes. Will be looking fwd to the next one. Gary

Hi Robert. Do believe that the breeching rope should be going through the ring bolt the other way, so have to agree with the others, that the artest is just a tad wrong. Here is a photo of a page in Adrian B Caruana book, Volume 2, The age of the System, 1715-1815, which should set things right. Gary

Thanks Jay and glad it will give you some ideal's for your Pelican. Those pins do help hold things in place thats for sure and the ones I use, once they are beat and bent up, the heads make real good door knob's. Gary

Mark I looked in Boudroit book, The 74 gun ship, Vol 2, and seems this is were I found the information on the wheel, rudder and tiller rope. As I posted above the rope was taken around the barrel a even number of turns and then taken back down to the tiller. Boudriot says that the mid point of the tiller rope is nailed to the barrel, and on either side of this fixed point it is wound round twice in opposing directions; thus if the barrel is turned in one direction the rope is wound on of the fixed point and unwound in the other, abaft the fixed point. Gary

Hi Mark and thank you sir. Some where and please don't ask me were, maybe in Goodwin's book, that the cable was taken around the spool or drum about 5 turns. They then put a nail or staple, on the middle run on the bottom of the drum, which means you had two and a half turns to port and two and a half turns to starboard. How far that would turn the rudder, this am unsure, maybe some one know's the answer to this one and will chime in here. This also as you said above gave space for the cable on the drum. Hum very interesting. Gary

Thanks Jay.As far as the pins, they are dress maker type pins and their size is usually the size of the bolt or treenail that replaces it when the part is attached for good. They help me align the parts and pieces during the building process. Gary

Hi Mark. It is very interesting that you say the lines for the steering was brought up independently and allways thought like you that they were one line. Can you post were this information came from? Very very interested in this. Thank you sir. Gary

Sorry Jay. Got a little busy but here is a couple of photo's showing them along with the scuppers and manger. Still some work going on in this area so forgive the mess. Hope it helps down the road. Gary

Looks good Alex. Glad to see a update sir and have been missing them. Really like how she looks. Any ideally's about adding a figure of your self to show her scale sir. Keep up the good work and will keep watch her come to life. Gary

Hi Colin. Thank you sir for letting me know that my memory is ok for at least the moment. David, have to agree with Colin sir and it is typical English planking and as David said is called thickstuff under the wale and the diminishing strakes. Took a look in the AOS Diana and shows the same type planking as on page 61. Gary

Thanks Ed and boy o boy what a large hull. Nice going sir and by chance have you pop the cork yet? Look fwd to more up dates. Gary